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APPLETONS' 

GUIDE  TO  MEXICO, 


INCLUDING   A 


CHAPTER  ON   GUATEMALA,   AND  A  COMPLETE 
ENGLISH-SPANISH  YOCABULAEY. 


BY 


ALFRED  R.  CONKLING,  LL.  B.,  Ph.  B., 

MEMBER    OF    THE    NEW    YOEK    ACADEMY    OP    SCIENCES,    AND    FOKMEELY    UNITED    STATES 

GEOLOGIST. 


WITH  A  RAILWAY  MAP  AND  ILLUSTEATIONS. 


NEW   YORK: 
D.    APPLETON    AND    COMPANY, 

1,  3,  AND  5  BOND  STREET. 

1884. 


COPYRIGHT  BY 

D.  APPLETON  AND  COMPANY, 
1883. 


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PEE  FA  O  E. 


Since  the  year  1880,  a  large  amount  of  capital  has 
been  invested  in  Mexico  by  citizens  of  the  United  States. 
"Within  that  period  an  unprecedented  number  of  the  Eng- 
hsh-speaking  races  have  visited  that  country  either  as 
tourists,  or  as  explorers  with  a  view  to  an  actual  settle- 
ment and  a  permanent  residence. 

During  a  professional  visit  to  the  Mexican  KepubHc, 
in  the  winter  and  spring  of  this  year,  the  author  experi- 
enced from  day  to  day,  and  frequently  from  hour  to  hour, 
the  want  of  a  compendious  guide-book.  While  many 
volumes  of  history  and  of  general  observation  and  travel 
relating  to  Mexico  have,  from  time  to  time,  been  pub- 
Hshed,  no  book  of  this  description  is  known  to  exist. 

Believing  that  our  sister  Republic  will  in  future,  to  a 
far  greater  extent  than  ever  before,  be  the  resort  of  the 
capitalist,  the  speculator,  the  artist,  the  archseologist,  the 
valetudinarian,  and  the  pleasure-seeker,  as  well  as  of  the 
intelligent  and  enterprising  man  of  business,  the  author 
has  endeavored  to  render  each  and  all  an  acceptable  ser- 
vice by  the  preparation  of  this  manual.     It  has  been  his 


iv  PREFACE. 

constant  aim  to  use  the  sliortest  words,  and  to  adopt  tlie 
most  compact  and  abbreviated  forms  of  expression  con- 
sistent with  perspicuity.  In  the  spelhng  of  both  proper 
najmes  and  places  he  has,  for  the  most  part,  followed  the 
orthography  of  the  best  ma]3s  and  of  the  standard  works 
on  Mexico,  except  where  changes  have  been  introduced 
by  common  usage.  For  instance,  the  name  of  President 
Santa  Anna,  although  correctly  spelled  with  a  single  let- 
ter "  71,"  has  so  long  been  spelled  with  a  double  "  ?i,"  that 
the  change  may  be  said  to  be  sanctioned  by  universal 
usage. 

The  vocabulary  of  Spanish  words,  together  with  the 
collection  of  colloquial  phrases,  has  been  made  as  complete 
as  the  limited  space  devoted  to  it  would  permit.  At 
present  every  new-comer,  unless  a  Spaniard  or  a  Spanish 
scholar,  is  obhged  to  purchase  a  dictionary  immediately 
on  his  arrival  in  the  country.  It  is  believed  that  this 
want  wiU  be  in  a  great  measure  supplied  by  this  volume. 

One  half  of  this  work  is  in  the  form  of  a  comj)endium 
of  general  information  for  the  use  of  tom'ists  as  weU  as  of 
settlers.  In  the  itinerary,  all  names  of  places  are  italicized 
for  the  convenience  of  the  reader. 

It  is  to  be  borne  in  mind  that  Mexico  is  at  present  in 
a  transition  state.  The  beard  may  be  said  to  have  grown 
during  the  shaving.  It  has  accordingly  been  found  neces- 
sary to  revise  the  proof-sheets  of  Sections  lY  and  V  up 
to  the  moment  of  going  to  press. 

The  author  desires  to  express  his  great  obhgation  to 
General  U.   S.  Grant;    General  Manuel  Gonzalez,  the 


PREFACE.  V 

President  of  Mexico ;  Sen  ores  Matias  and  Cayetano  Ro- 
mero, of  the  Mexican  Legation  at  Washington ;  Don  Igna- 
cio  Mariscal,  ex-Secretary  of  Foreign  Affairs  of  the  Mexi- 
can Republic ;  Hon.  P.  H.  Morgan,  United  States  Min- 
ister at  Mexico ;  Hon.  D.  H.  Strother,  Consul-General  of 
the  United  States ;  Hon.  W.  P.  Sutton  and  Hon.  A.  Wil- 
lard,  Consuls  at  Matamoros  and  Guaymas  respectively; 
Mr.  Simon  Stevens;  Thomas  JSTickerson,  Esq.,  Rudolph 
Fink,  Esq.,  and  D.  B.  Robinson,  Esq.,  of  the  Mexican 
Central  Railway  Company;  and  to  Messrs.  Spackman, 
Gardner,  and  Nevin,  of  the  Mexican  I^ational  Railway 
Company,  for  much  valuable  information  and  assistance 
in  the  preparation  of  these  pages. 

New  York,  November  1,  1S83. 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS. 


PART   FIRST 

CHAPTER 

I, — Traveling  in  Mexico  . 

Dints  . 

When  to  Travel    . 

How  to  Travel 

An  Agricultural  Trip 

A  Mining  Trip 

The  Cost  of  Travel 

Railroads 

Steamships 

Diligences 

Ilorse-cars 

Horses  and  Mules 

Express     . 
II. — History     . 
III. — Geography 

Situation 

Boundaries 

Area   . 
Topography    . 

Mountains 

Rivers 

Lakes . 

Islands 

Climate 

Political  Divisions 
IV. — Literature 
V. — Ruins  . 

Mayapan 

Uxmal 


PAGE 

1 

1-2 

Z-A 

4-6 

6 

6 

6 

1-12 

12-13 

13-14 

14-15 

15 

15-16 

16-24 

25-33 

25 

25 

25 

25-30 

25-28 

29 

29-30 

30 

30-31 

32-33 

33 

34-49 

36 

36-38 


vm 


TABLE  OF  GON'TENTS. 


Palenque    . 
Mitla    . 
The  Pyramids 
Cholula 

San  Juan  Teotihuacan 
Papantla 

Northern  Mexico    . 
VI. — Hotels  and  Restaurants 
VII. — Passport 
Vni. — Custom-Houses 
IX. — Commerce 
X. — Army  and  Navy     . 
XI.— Duties . 
XII.— Taxes 
XIII. — Finance 
XIV.— Public  Debt 
XV. — Money — Coins 
XVI.— Mints 

XVII.— Post-Office  and  Letters 
XVIII.— Telegraphs 
XIX. — Census 
XX. — Population 
XXI. — Architecture    . 
XXII. — Painting    . 
XXIII. — Immigration    . 
XXIV.— Mines 
XXV. — Mineral  Springs 
XXVI.— Geology    . 
XXVII.— Zoology 
XXVIII.— Botany      . 
XXIX. — Agriculture 
XXX. — Maps  and  Surveys 
XXXI. — Stock-Raising  . 
.XXXII. — Weights  and  Measures 
XXXIII. — Labor  and  Wages 
XXXIV. — Wines  and  Liquors 
XXXV.— Cigars  and  Tobacco 
XXXVI. — Manufactures 
XXXVII. — Native  Productions 
XXXVIII.— Jewelry     . 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


IX 


CHAPTER 

XXXIX.- 

XL.- 

XLI.- 

XLII.- 

XLIIL- 

XLIV.- 

XLV.- 

XLVL- 

XLVII.- 

XLVIII.- 

XLIX.- 

L.- 

LI.- 

LII.- 

LIIL- 

LIV.- 


-Theatrcs 

-Music 

-Dances 

-Festivals   . 

-Bull-fights 

-Cock-fights 

-Costumes 

-Lotteries   . 

-Stores . 

-Pawnbroker-Shops 

-The  Church     . 

-Jurisprudence 

-Education 

-Newspapers 

-Miscellaneous  . 

-What  Mexico  needs 


PAG  a 
122 
122-124 
124 
124-125 
125-126 
126-127 
12V-129 
129 
129-130 
130-131 
131-134 
134-137 
137-139 
139-140 
140-143 
143-146 


PART     SECOND. 

SECTION  PAGE 

I. — How  to  reach  Mexico             .....  147-159 

IIow  to  reach  the  Country        ....  147 

Route     I. — New  York  to  Vera  Cruz  by  Steamer      .            .  147-152 

Vera  Cruz             ....  152-154 

Jalapa              .....  154-155 

Route    II. — New  York  to  New  Orleans  by  Rail,  thence  by 

Steamer  to  Vera  Cruz             .            .  156-158 

Matamoros,  Tampico,  Tuxpan             .             .  157 

Route  III. — New  York  to  Laredo  or  El  Paso,  Texas,  by  Rail  158-159 

IT. — The  Mexican  Railway  Company  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico  .  160-174 

From  Vera  Cruz  to  Orizaba      ....  160-163 

Orizaba       .......  163-165 

From  Orizaba  to  Esperanza      ....  165-169 

From  Esperanza  to  Puebla  via  Apizaco     .            .            .  169-170 

Puebla 171-173 

From  Puebla  to  the  City  of  Mexico            .            .            .  173-174 
ni.— The  City  of  Mexico  and  Environs            .            .            .  175-201 
Hotels,   Restaurants,   Theatres,  Carriages,   Banks,   Soci- 
eties, etc.,  etc.             .....  175-176 

History  of  Tenochtitlan           ....  176-179 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


BECTION 

Places  of  Interest  .... 
Excursions  around  the  Capital 
San  Juan  Teotihuacan 
Pachuca  .  .         ■   . 

Cuernavaca  .... 

IV. — The  Mexican  National  Railway    . 

Route     I. — From  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Manzanillo 
Mexico  to  Toluca  . 
Toluca 

Toluca  to  Maravatio 
Maravatio  to  Morelia  . 
Acambaro .... 
Morelia 
Morelia   to   Patzcuaro   and  thence  to   Man^ 

zanillo  .... 

Patzcuaro  via  Ario  to  Jorullo 
Acapulco  ..... 
Route   II. — From  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Laredo  and  Corpus 
Christi 
Mexico  to  Celaya  . 
Celaya  to  San  Luis  Potosi 
San  Luis  Potosi     . 
San  Luis  Potosi  to  Saltillo 
Saltillo 

Saltillo  to  Monterey    . 
Monterey  . 

Monterey  to  Laredo    . 
New  Laredo 
Laredo 

Laredo  to  Corpus  Christi  . 
V. — The  Mexican  Central  Railway 

Route     I. — From  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Zacatecas 
Mexico  to  Queretaro  , 
The  Canal  of  Iluehuetoca 

Queretaro  . 
Queretaro  to  Guanajuato  . 
Silao 

Guanajuato 
Guanajuato  to  Lagos  . 
Lagos  to  Guadalajara  and  San  Bias 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


XI 


SECTION 

Lagos  to  Zacatecas 
Aguascalientes 
La  Quemada 
Zacatecas 
Durango    . 
Zacatecas  to  San  Luis  Potosi 
Route  IL — El  Paso  to  Chihuahua 
Chihuahua 
Chihuahua  to  Jimenez 
List  of  Ranches 
VL — The  International  and  Interoceanic  Railway 
VIL — The  Mexican  Southern  Railroad 
Northern  Division 
Southern  Division     . 
Oaxaca  and  Mitla 
VIIL— The  Morelos  Railway     . 
Mexico  to  Cuautla 
Amecameca  and  Popocatepetl 
Cuautla  to  Acapulco 
IX. — The  Tehuantepcc  Railroad 
X. — The  Sonora  Railway 

XI. — The  American  and  Mexican  Pacific  Railway 
XII. — The  New  York,  Texas,  and  Mexican  Railroad 
XIII. — The  Mexican  International  Railroad 
XIV. — The  Sinaloa  and  Durango  Railroad 
XV.— Table  of  Distances 
XVI. — Guatemala  .... 

Geography    .... 
Miscellaneous 

Route     I. — Tonala,  Mexico,  to  San  Jose  de  Guatemala 
Route  II. — San  Jose  to  New  Guatemala 
Guatemala 
Old  Guatemala 
Appendix  ..... 

Language         .... 
Vocabulary  .... 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PART    FIRST. 

PAGE 

Scene  in  Mexico  ..... 

.     26 

Mexican  Table-land  ..... 

28 

Aztec  Temple      ..... 

.     44 

Toltec  Palace  at  Tula           .... 

48 

The  Cathedral  of  Mexico 

.     -70 

Longitudinal  View  of  Timbered  Level 

80 

The  Peak  of  Orizaba       .... 

.     84 

The  Axolotl  ...... 

87 

Cochineal  Insects  on  Branch  of  Cactus  . 

.     88 

Indigo  Plant  (Anil)  ..... 

90 

Brazil-Wood,  Leaves,  Flower,  and  Fruit . 

.     91 

The  Vanilla  Plant    ..... 

92 

India-Rubber  Plant  (IMe) 

.     93 

The  Coffee  Plant 

96 

Cocoanut  Palm   ..... 

.     98 

Mexican  Porters       .            .            .            . 

109 

Pulque  Tlachiquero         .... 

.  113 

PART    SECOND. 


A  Tropical  Jungle    . 

Jalapa    .... 

A  Mexican  Canon     . 

The  Pineapple  Plant 

Cut  showing  Zones  of  Vegetation 

The  Nopal 

Popocatepetl 


150 
154 
159 
162 
167 
70 
12 


XIV 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


The  Volcanoes  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl 

Plaza  Mayor,  Mexico 

Quetzalcoatl 

Feathered  Serpent    . 

Teoyaomiqui 

The  Noche-triste  Tree 

The  Aqueduct  and  Fountain,  Mexico 

Pyramids  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan 

Silver-Mill,  Pachuca 

Indian  Hut  in  the  Tierra  Caliente 

City  of  Colima    . 

Manzanillo  Bay 

A  Pack-Train 

JoruUo 

Interior  of  a  Modern  Mexican  House 

Yucca-Tree  . 

Scene  on  the  Northern  Plateau 

Varieties  of  Cactus 

The  Cut  of  Nochistongo 

Plaza  de  Armas,  Guadalajara 

Making  Tequila 

Ruins  of  Quemada 

Church  and  Plaza,  El  Paso 

Janos,  Chihuahua     . 

Casas  Grandes,  Chihuahua 

Aqueduct  and  Church  of  Santa  Rita,  Chihuahua 

La  Punta  de  Sauz  Cienega 

Chirieahui  Mountains 

Scene  in  Northern  Mexico 

Victoria  and  Tula  Pass 

Scene  in  Mexico 

Gathering  Cochineal,  Mexico 

Acapulco 

Tree-Fem      .... 

A  Scene  on  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec 

Fronteras,  Sonora     . 

Magdalona  .... 

Arispc  .... 

Defile  in  the  Guadalupe  Pass,  Sierra  Madre 

ThePitahaya 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


XV 


A  Mexican  Hacienda 

Scene  on  the  Sonora  River 

Map  of  Guatemala    .  .  .  . 

Native  of  Mixco .... 

Volcan  de  Agua,  Old  Guatemala 

The  Plaza,  Quezaltenango 

General  View  of  the  City  of  Quezaltenango 

The  National  Institute,  Guatemala 

The  Government  Building,  Quezaltenango  . 

The  National  Theatre,  Guatemala 

The  Cathedral,  Guatemala   . 

The  Plaza,  Old  Guatemala 

The  Penitentiary,  Quezaltenango 


PAGE 

821 

.  325 

328 
.  329 

331 
.  332 

334 
.  336 

337 
.  340 

341 
.  342 

343 


PAET    FIE  ST. 
GE]N"EEAL  I^FOEMATIOlSr. 


Traveling  in  Mexico. 

HINTS. 

The  reader  will  generally  find  railway  fares,  hotel 
charges,  tariffs  for  hacks,  etc.,  given  in  the  body  of  the 
Guide-Book,  but  a  few  words  may  be  of  use  at  the  outset. 

The  cost  of  traveling  by  rail  in  Mexico  is  considerably 
higher  than  in  the  Northern  and  Eastern  States  of  the 
American  Eepublic.  (For  table  of  fares,  see  chapter  on 
railroads. ) 

There  are  first,  second,  and  third  class  cars  on  the  rail- 
roads. At  present  (1883),  traveling  in  Mexico  is  as  safe  as 
in  the  western  part  of  the  United  States.  There  are  no 
brigands  on  the  stage-roads  any  longer,  except  in  the  States 
of  Jalisco  and  Sinaloa.  It  is  well,  however,  to  go  armed, 
and  to  keep  your  fire-arms  in  sight.  Escorts  of  mounted 
guards  called  the  Guardia  Rural  accompany  the  diligences. 
Train-robberies  are  thus  far  unknown.  The  traveler  is  ad- 
vised to  take  as  little  baggage  as  possible,  as  the  railroads 
only  allow  15  kilogrammes  (33  pounds),  and  the  diligences 
one  arroba  (25  pounds).  The  rates  for  extra  baggage  are 
1 


2  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

yery  high.  Wraps  and  haDd-ba^S',  carried  into  the  passen- 
ger-cars, are,  of  co^rse,  .free.of  charge.  Passengers  must 
purchase  tickets  before ,  tke-ir  ;baggage  can  be  checked. 
They  will  re.03J\e  a  piper  check  wicli  a  number  correspond- 
ing to  that  of  a  label  pasted  on  the  trunk  or  valise.  Wells, 
Eargo  &  Co.  have  established  express  agencies  in  the  Repub- 
lic, and  there  are  baggage-express  companies  in  Puebla  and 
Mexico.  In  the  large  cities,  coaches  do  not  meet  trains  on 
arrival  as  in  the  United  States,  but  horse-cars  usually  pass 
the  doors  of  the  hotels.  Hacks  are  common,  and  can  be 
hired  to  the  hotel  at  an  average  price  of  four  reales. 
Diligence-drivers  and  railroad-porters  do  not  expect  fees. 
Carry  soap  and  matches  with  you.  The  natives  make  ex- 
cellent wax-matches  called  cerillos,  which  are  sold  at  one' 
centavo  a  box.  As  regards  clothing,  the  tourist  does  not 
require  as  thick  garments  on  the  coast  as  upon  the  table- 
land. Woolen  under-clothing  should  be  worn  all  the  year 
round  on  the  tierra  fria,  and  for  three  quarters  of  the  year 
in  the  temperate  zone.  A  Mexican  blanket,  or  zarape,  will 
be  found  very  useful  for  the  tourist,  in  addition  to  a  cloak 
or  overcoat.  It  can  be  put  on  the  bed  at  night  and  will 
serve  as  a  wrap  in  the  diligences.  A  linen  duster  is  of 
great  service  in  the  dry  season.  On  first  reaching  Mexico, 
care  should  be  taken  to  avoid  exposure  to  the  direct  rays  of 
the  sun.  Although  sunstrokes  are  very  rare,  yet  headache 
or  fever  comes  from  a  strong  sun,  until  the  tourist  has  be- 
come acclimated.  Solar  hats  should.be  worn  in  the  sum- 
mer season.  Keep  out  of  the  night  air  at  first.  There  is 
a  great  difference  between  the  temperature  in  the  sun  and 
in  the  shade  on  the  table-land.  Tourists  should  accord- 
ingly be  careful  to  avoid  taking  cold.  The  facilities  for 
washing  clothes  in  Mexican  cities  are  very  poor,  and  it  is 
advisable  to  have  several  changes  of  linen,  so  as  not  to  be 
detained  in  a  place  on  account  of  being  obliged  to  wait  for 
one's  clean  garments. 


TRA  VELIFG  IN  MEXICO. 


When  to  travel. 


Owing  to  the  configuration  of  the  country,  it  is  impor- 
tant that  the  tourist  should  select  the  proper  seasons  for 
traveling  in  the  different  zones. 

The  best  time  for  visiting  the  tierra  caliente,  or  hot 
land,  south  of  latitude  22  degrees,  is  in  the  winter  months. 
Northers  blow  from  November  to  March,  thus  cooling  the 
atmosphere  ;  and  the  vomito,  or  yellow  fever,  rarely  breaks 
out  during  this  period.  Tourists  had  better  visit  Vera  Cruz 
in  winter,  if  possible. 

The  tierra  templaday  or  temperate  zone,  and  the  table- 
land, may  be  frequented  at  any  season,  although  the  winter 
climate  of  the  former  is  somewhat  preferable. 

If  the  tourist  wishes  to  avoid  the  clouds  of  dust  that 
rise  on  the  great  plateau  of  Mexico,  he  should  travel  in  the 
rainy  season,  i.  e.,  June  to  September.  However,  as  many 
parts  of  Mexico  can  only  be  reached  by  the  diligence  lines 
(excepting  on  horseback),  it  is  proper  to  state  that  both  the 
summer  and  winter  months  have  their  advantages  and  dis- 
advantages. .  In  the  rainy  season  the  air  is  delightful,  but 
the  roads  are  in  such  a  condition,  owing  to  the  very  heavy 
showers,  that  they  are  often  almost  impassable.  Sometimes 
the  stage-coach  will  sink  into  the  soft  mud  of  the  highway, 
so  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  proceed.  In  such  a  case, 
the  coachman  will  walk  to  the  nearest  hacienda  and  borrow 
a  yoke  of  oxen  to  aid  the  mules  in  dragging  the  vehicle 
upon  firm  ground.  These  occurrences  may  cause  a  delay 
of  several  hours.  In  some  places  the  road  will  be  flooded 
for  perhaps  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  in  crossing  such  a 
spot  the  diligence  is  occasionally  imbedded  in  the  yielding 
soil  to  an  extent  that  makes  further  progress  utterly  im- 
practicable, and  the  passengers  may  be  compelled  to  spend 
the  night  in  the  coach.  This  latter  event  occurs  only  in 
a  mountainous  region.      In   short,  the  traveler  can  not 


4  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

always  make  sure  connections  by  diligence  in  the  summer 
season. 

Furthermore,  the  country  is  very  sparsely  settled.  Vil- 
lages where  the  tourist  can  obtain  food  and  lodging  are  few 
and  far  between.  As  the  stage-coach  oftentimes  fails  to 
reach  the  '^ regular"  stopping-place  of  the  route  during 
the  day's  journey,  these  facts  should  be  borne  in  mind  ; 
and  passengers  are  advised  to  carry  provisions  with  them 
while  traveling  by  diligence  in  the  rainy  season. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  dust  rising  in  clouds,  which 
often  envelop  the  vehicle  so  that  the  surrounding  country 
is  invisible  for  a  few  moments,  constitutes  the  only  draw- 
back to  traveling  by  diligence  in  the  dry  season.  The  pas- 
sengers are  certain  to  arrive  on  time,  unless  delayed  by 
some  accident.  Invalids  intending  to  winter  in  Mexico, 
should  spend  several  days  near  the  coast  or  in  the  tierra 
templada,  before  exposing  themselves  to  the  rarefied  atmos- 
phere of  the  table-land. 

Hoiu  to  travel. 

Unless  the  tourist  is  familiar  with  Spanish,  he  is  strong- 
ly advised  not  to  travel  alone  in  Mexico.  Large  parties 
are  not  recommended,  owing  to  the  small  number  of  bed- 
rooms in  the  hotels,  and  the  limited  capacity  of  the  dili- 
gences. As  a  rule,  the  latter  are  run  only  three  times  a 
week,  and  the  seats  ore  frequently  engaged  for  days  in 
advance.  Neither  have  the  companies  more  vehicles  to 
"  put  on  "  when  the  regular  coach  is  filled  with  passen- 
gers. Occasionally  the  stranger  will  be  obliged  to  spend 
two  or  three  days  in  some  uninteresting  town  while  wait- 
ing for  transportation. 

As  yet  there  are  no  professional  couriers,  but  they  will 
doubtless  make  their  appearance  before  long. 

In  visiting  the  mining  districts  lying  remote  from  cities, 
and  in  ascending  the  snow-clad  mountains,  a  mozo,  or  ser- 


TRA.YELINQ  IN  MEXICO.  5 

vant,  should  accompany  the  tourist.  He  will  make  himself 
generally  useful,  and  his  wages  should  not  exceed  one  dol- 
lar a  day. 

The  following  lists  of  short  trips  in  Mexico  are  so  ar- 
ranged as  to  allow  the  traveler  to  see  as  much  as  possible  in 
a  given  space  of  time  : 

Route  I. 

Vera  Cruz  to  Cordoba \  day. 

In  Cordoba 1     do. 

To  Orizaba  and  remain  there 1     do. 

To  Puebla i  do. 

In  Puebla \\  do. 

To  Mexico  City \  do 

In  Mexico 4    days. 

Return  to  Vera  Cruz 1    day. 

Total 10    days. 

Route  II. 

Vera  Cruz  to  Puebla 1    day. 

In  Puebla 1     do. 

To  Mexico  City \  do. 

In  Mexico  City 1|  do. 

Return  to  Vera  Cruz 1     do. 

Total 5    days. 

Route  III. 

First  part  same  as  Route  II 5  days. 

Mexico  to  Maravatio 1  day. 

Maravatio  to  Celaya 1  do. 

Celaya  to  Queretaro 1  do. 

Queretaro  to  Mexico 1  do. 

Total 9    days. 

Route  IV. 

Same  as  Route  III,  with  the  addition  of  2  days,  from 

Celaya  to  the  mines  of  Guanajuato  and  return. .  11  days. 


6  GENERAL  INFORMATION: 

An  '' AgriciiUural"  Tri2). 

Supposing  the  traveler  to  be  in  the  national  capital,  a 
visit  should  be  made  to  Queretaro  and  Lagos  by  rail ;  then 
to  Guadalajara  by  diligence  ;  thence  to  Uruapan  by  dili- 
gence and  horseback  ;  thence  to  Patzcuaro  by  horseback, 
and  diligence  to  Morelia  ;  return  to  Mexico  by  rail  via  Mara- 
vatio  and  Toluca. 

A  "Mining''  Trip. 

Starting  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  let  the  tourist  make 
an  excursion  to  the  town  of  Pachuca  by  rail  and  tramway, 
and  then  return  to  the  capital.  Then  go  by  rail  to  Guana- 
juato and  Zacatecas  ;  thence  by  diligence  to  Presnillo,  Som- 
brerete,  or  Durango.  One  can  then  reach  the  Mexican  Cen- 
tral Eailway  at  the  nearest  point,  and  visit  Chihuahua,  or" 
return  to  the  southern  part  of  the  Eepublic.  The  mining 
towns  just  mentioned  are  the  most  accessible,  although 
by  no  means  the  only  jolaces  worthy  of  the  attention  of  the 
scientific  traveler. 

The  Cost  of  Travel 

If  the  tourist  intends  to  move  about  a  great  deal,  he 
will  have  to  spend  at  least  forty  dollars  a  week.  If,  on 
the  other  hand,  he  wishes  to  linger  in  the  cities  and  stay  at 
the  best  hotels,  twenty  dollars  a  week  will  cover  the  cost  of 
living  outside  of  the  capital. 

One  month's  trip  from  New  York  to  Mexico  and  return, 
by  steamer,  will  cost  about  1235.  The  same  tour  via  New 
Orleans  by  rail,  thence  to  Vera  Cruz  and  return  by  steamer, 
will  cost  about  $300.  The  expense  of  a  journey  from  New 
York  to  Laredo,  Texas,  by  rail,  thence  by  rail  to  Saltillo, 
by  stage-coach  to  Queretaro,  and  rail  to  the  City  of  Mexico, 
will  be  about  $175,  including  sleeping-car  fares,  meals,  and 
lodgmg  at  the  diligence  taverns. 


TRA  YELING  IN  MEXICO. 


RAILKOADS. 


The  great  desideratum  in  Mexico  has  always  been  cheap 
and  rapid  transportation.  For  many  years  communication 
between  the  various  towns  could  only  be  had  by  means  of 
carts  and  on  horseback.  At  length  a  system  of  diligences 
was  established,  which  of  course  was  only  adapted  to  carry- 
ing passengers.  The  first  line  of  railroad — that  of  the  Mexi- 
can Kailway  Company,  connecting  the  city  of  Vera  Cruz 
with  the  national  capital — was  begun  in  1837.  On  Sep- 
tember 16,  18G9,  the  branch  of  this  road  from  Mexico  to 
Puebla,  a  distance  of  115f  miles,  was  opened  with  great 
pomp  and  ceremony.  Trains  commenced  running  on  the 
division  between  Orizaba  and  Vera  Cruz  on  September  5, 
1872,  and  the  entire  route  was  completed  on  January  17, 
1873. 

The  Mexican  Government,  in  September,  1880,  granted 
charters  to  the  Mexican  Central  Railway  Company  and  to 
the  Mexican  National  Construction  Company,  and  in  June, 
1881,  to  the  International  and  Interoceanic  Eailway  Com- 
pany. These  corporations  are  the  three  great  American 
trunk-lines  of  Mexico.  In  May,  1881,  a  concession  was 
obtained  by  General  U.  S.  Grant  for  a  road  to  be  known 
as  the  Mexican  Southern  Eailroad. 

The  charters  generally  run  for  a  term  of  ninety-nine 
years,  at  the  end  of  which  the  roads  revert  to  the  Govern- 
ment. If  the  latter  decides  to  sell  or  lease  the  lines,  the 
companies  are  to  be  entitled  to  the  preference. 

The  Government,  since  1877,  has  issued  charters  to  the 
several  States,  and  to  various  individuals,  for  the  construc- 
tion of  other  railroads  in  the  interior  of  the  country. 
But  none  of  these  roads  is  of  sufficient  importance  to  merit 
an  extended  notice  here,  and  many  of  the  grantees  have 
forfeited  their  charters  for  failure  to  complete  their  lines 
within  the  specified  time. 


8  GENERAL  INFORM  ATI  OK 

The  Liberal  party  in  Mexico,  who  have  recently  come 
into  power,  believe  that  the  development  of  the  immense 
mineral  and  agricultural  resources  of  the  country  can  only 
be  accomplished  by  the  construction  of  railroads.  Accord- 
ingly, having  but  little  public  land  to  grant  for  this  pur- 
pose, the  Government  pays  subsidies,*  with  the  object  of 
encouraging  both  natives  and  foreigners  to  build  railways. 
These  subventions,  as  they  are  called,  vary  from  $G,500  to 
$9,500  per  kilometre,  and  are  supposed  to  amount  to  about 
one  third  of  the  cost  of  the  roads.  They  now  reach  a  total 
of  about  $7,000,000  annually. 

A  subsidy  of  $560,000  a  year  is  given  to  the  Mexican 
Eailway,  which  is  the  only  completed  line  in  the  Ee- 
public.  It  must  not  be  assumed,  however,  that  these  sub- 
ventions are  paid  in  money.  Revenue  bonds  are  issued 
without  interest,  and  an  amount,  varying  from  4  to  6  per 
cent  of  the  customs  duties,  is  set  aside  for  their  redemp- 
tion. 

The  American  trunk-lines  extend  from  the  Eio  Grande 
to  the  City  of  Mexico.  A  branch  of  one  of  them,  i.  e.,  the 
Mexican  Central  Eailroad,  is  being  built  across  the  country 
from  the  Gulf  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Another  branch,  that 
of  the  Mexican  National  Eailway,  is  already  finished  for 
nearly  one  half  of  the  distance  between  the  capital  and 
Manzanillo,  the  terminus  of  this  division.  This  company 
has  lately  consolidated  all  its  concessions  under  the  law  of 
January  11,  1883. 

The  Morelos  Eailway  is  expected  to  be  continued  to 
Acapulco,  and  the  Tehuantepec  Eailroad  will  soon  reach 
the  Pacific  coast.     (See  Sections  VIII  and  IX.) 

Hence,  it  will  be  seen  that  in  the  course  of  a  few  years 
three  lines  of  railway  will  connect  the  capital  with  the 
United  States,  and  four  roads  will  traverse  the  Eepublic 

*  The  total  amount  of  railroad  subsidies  granted  by  the  Mexican  Gov- 
ernment is  given  in  round  numbers  at  $90,000,000, 


TRAVELIFG  IN  MEXICO.  9 

from  east  to  west,  thus  establishing  communication  be- 
tween the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  Great  Ocean.  Another 
line  is  being  built  from  Altata  to  Culiacan,  and  thence  to 
Durango. 

None  of  the  trains  on  the  various  railroads,  as  a  rule, 
carry  escorts  or  guards,  except  the  Mexican  Kailway.  A 
special  car  is  provided  on  the  latter  for  a  squad  of  Fed- 
eral soldiers.  Occasionally  the  Mexican  National  Kailway 
Company  will  send  several  guards  on  the  pay-car,  or  on 
a  train  that  transports  an  enormous  amount  of  coin  and 
bullion. 

The  plan  of  building  railways  in  Mexico  has  been  to 
work  from  each  end  toward  a  middle  point.  This  method 
proved  very  expensive  to  the  Mexican  road,  but  it  is  found 
expedient  in  the  construction  of  the  American  trunk-lines. 
The  latter  rarely  pass  through  the  cities  and  towns  along 
the  route,  as  the  inhabitants  prefer  to  keep  the  railroad- 
track  at  a  considerable  distance.  At  Monterey  the  station 
is  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  city. 

With  the  exception  of  the  Mexican  National  Railway 
and  the  Morelos  Eailv^ay  (the  latter  being  owned  by  Mexi- 
cans), the  standard  gauge  has  been  adopted  on  the  princi- 
pal lines  of  the  country.  These  two  roads  are  constructed 
of  the  narrow  gauge  {via  angosta),  which  is  thought  to 
be  well  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  region  traversed  by 
them. 

Mexico  derives  two  great  benefits  from  the  construction 
of  railroads — viz.,  in  giving  employment  to  a  great  many 
people,  it  produces  a  peaceful  effect  on  them  ;  and,  in  case 
of  a  revolution,  the  Government  can  send  troops  to  the  seat 
of  war  within  a  few  hours. 

The  following  table  of  charges  for  the  transportation  of 
freight  and  passengers  on  the  trunk-lines  will  be  found 
useful : 


10 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


ITIEIGHT   PER   TON   FOR   EACH   KILOMETRE. 


PvOADS. 


First 

Second 

class. 

class. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

6 

4 

4 

3 

10 

7 

10 

7 

13 

8 

Third 
class. 


Mexican  Central  Kailroad 

Mexican  National  Railway 

International  and  Interoceanic  Railway 

*  Mexican  Southern  Railroad 

\  Mexican  Railway 


Cents. 

2i 
2 

5 
5 


I 


PASSENGER   RATES   PER   KILOMETRE, 


EOADS. 


Mexican  Central  Railroad 

Mexican  National  Railway 

International  and  Interoceanic  Railway 

Mexican  Southern  Railroad 

Mexican  Railway 

Morelos  Railway 


Fii-st 

Second 

class. 

class. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

3 

2 

2^ 

2 

n 

5 

1 

5 

3,^.fo 

9  25. 

H 

1 

Third 
class. 


Cents. 

H 
1 

8 

3 

1   71 
■■^100 


Local  fares  are  generally  higher.  As  before  stated,  15 
kilogrammes  (33  pounds)  of  baggage  are  allowed  to  each 
passenger.     The  rates  for  extra  baggage  are  exorbitant. 

Coal  and  fire-wood  are  yery  dear  and  scarce  along  the 
lines  of  the  principal  railroads.  The  deposits  of  the  former 
that  occur  in  Mexico  are  generally  found  at  a  great  distance 
from  the  railways,  while  the  timber  growing  in  the  adjoin- 
ing regions  is  being  rapidly  cut  down  to  be  used  for  sleepers. 
The  Mexican  Eailway  Company  imports  compressed-coal 
cakes  from  England,  as  fuel  for  its  engines. 

The  rolling  stock  and  permanent  way  of  the  trunk-lines 
may  be  concisely  described  as  follows  : 

The  locomotives  and  cars  of  the  Mexican  Central  Eail- 

*  The  Mexican  Southern  Railroad  Company  is  allowed  to  charge  |  cent 
more  for  coal  per  ton  than  the  International  Railroad. 
f  Railroad-iron  costs  $55  a  ton  for  263  miles. 


TEA  YELING  IN  MEXICO.  11 

road  are  of  American  manufacture.  There  are  very  few 
bridges  and  tunnels  along  the  line.  The  maximum  grade 
is  three  feet  per  hundred.  The  higher  officials,  conduc- 
tors, and  engineers  are  mostly  Americans,  while  natives 
are  employed  as  ticket-agents,  baggage-masters,  and  brake- 
men. 

The  company  owns  a  telegraph  line. 

The  Mexican  National  Railway  belongs,  as  above  stated, 
to  the  narrow-gauge  system.  The  locomotives  and  cars  are 
made  in  the  United  States.  The  southern  division  has  sev- 
eral tunnels  and  many  bridges,  some  of  which  are  of  con- 
siderable dimensions,  while  the  main  line,  north  of  Celaya, 
will  traverse  a  flat  table-land,  without  any  heavy  grades  or 
bridges,  except  in  the  vicinity  of  Saltillo.  The  company 
has  erected  a  bridge  across  the  Rio  Grande,  which  is  de- 
scribed in  Section  IV.  The  heaviest  grade  amounts  to 
three  and  four  fifths  feet  per  hundred,  and  is  found  near 
the  summit  of  the  Toluca  division.  A  telegraph  line  has 
been  built  by  the  company,  but  the  Government  reserves 
the  right  to  put  up  a  wire  for  its  own  use  on  the  poles. 

Both  of  the  American  companies  just  mentioned  have 
time-tables  printed  in  English  and  Spanish,  and  their  ticket- 
agents  can  generally  speak  both  languages. 

The  Mexican  Railway  Company  has  imported  most  of 
its  rolling-stock  from  England.  The  first-class  carriages 
are  built  in  the  English  style,  Avith  compartments,  while 
the  second  and  third  class  cars  are  on  the  American. plan. 
The  engineers  are  sent  out  from  England  and  have  charge 
of  the  train,  whereas  the  conductors  are  merely  ticket-col- 
lectors. French  or  German,  besides  Spanish,  is  spoken  by 
the  latter.  There  are  many  bridges  and  tunnels  along  the 
line,  the  former  being  made  of  iron  resting  on  stone  piers. 
The  grades  are  very  heavy  between  the  stations  of  La  Sole- 
dad  and  Esperanza,  the  maximum  being  four  feet  in  a  hun- 
dred.    Owing  to  the  great  engineering  difficulties,  and  to 


12  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

the  unsettled  condition  of  tlie  country  during  the  period 
of  construction,  the  main  line  cost  $30,000,000. 

The  company's  telegraph  is  described  in  Section  II. 

No  rolling-stock  has  yet  been  purchased  by  the  Mexican 
Southern  Railroad,  or  by  the  International  and  Interoceanic 
Railway.  So  little  work  on  these  two  lines  has  been  done 
that  a  description  of  the  permanent  way  would  be  prema- 
ture. 

STEAMSHIPS. 

The  majority  of  the  steamships  running  to  Mexico  are 
owned  and  controlled  by  Americans.  The  Alexandre'^  line 
of  steamers  plies  between  New  York  and  Vera  Cruz,  via 
Havana,  and  also  between  New  Orleans  and  Vera  Cruz. 
The  Morgan  line  runs  between  New  Orleans,  Galveston, 
and  Vera  Cruz.  The  Pacific  Mail  steamers  touch  at  all 
the  ports  on  the  Pacific  coast,  beginning  with  Mazatlan. 
There  are  two  lines  of  coasting  steamers  on  the  Pacific, 
which  run  as  far  north  as  Guaymas.  One  of  them  is  owned 
by  a  Mexican,  and  the  other  belongs  to  an  American.  Small 
steamships  sail  from  Matamoros  (Bagdad)  down  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  calling  at  Tampico,  Tuxpan,  Vera  Cruz,  Frontera, 
Campeche,  Progreso,  and  intermediate  ports.  (For  particu- 
lars as  to  time  of  sailing,  fares,  etc.,  see  advertisements.) 

Some  capitalists  in  Mexico  have  recently  organized  a 
company,  and  have  ordered  six  iron  steamers,  each  of  four 
thousand  tons  burden,  which  are  to  be  run  between  Eng- 
land and  Italy  and  Vera  Cruz.  Its  title  is  the  Mexican 
Transatlantic  SteamsMp  Company.  One  of  the  steamers 
is  to  be  called  the  Estaclo  de  Tamaulipas,  in  compliment 
to  President  Gonzalez,  and  another  the  Estado  de  Oaxaca, 
in  honor  of  General  Diaz.     The  steamers  will  cost  at  least 

),000  each,  and  the  engines  will  be  of  five  hundred 


*  This  line  receives  a  subsidy  of  $2,000  per  round  trip  from  the  Mexi- 
can Government. 


TRAVELma  m  Mexico.  13 

horse-power.  It  is  expected  that  some  of  the  ships  will  be 
completed  and  begin  running  within  a  year.  They  are  to 
be  constructed  by  the  builders  of  the  well-known  ocean- 
steamers  Servia  and  Britannic,  which  run  between  New 
York  and  Liverpool,  and  are  expected  to  have  a  speed  of 
sixteen  knots  per  hour. 

DILIGENCES. 

The  diligence  system,  or  diligencias  generales,  was  estab- 
lished in  Mexico  about  fifty  years  ago.  The  central  office 
is  in  the  capital,  and  coaches  are  run  from  Cuernavaca  on 
the  south,  to  Durango  and  San  Luis  Potosi  on  the  north. 
Other  lines  connect  the  latter  town  with  Monterey,  and 
also  bring  Durango  in  communication  with  Chihuahua. 
The  smaller  diligences  that  are  driven  between  the  towns 
lying  beyond  the  routes  of  the  "general"  system  are  called 
diligencias  j)articulares. 

The  coaches  are  built  in  Mexico,  after  the  '^'Concord" 
pattern.  They  soon  wear  out,  owing  to  the  rough  pave- 
ments of  the  streets,  and  the  bad  condition  of  the  roads. 
Each  stage-coach  has  one  and  often  two  whippers  besides 
the  driver.  The  whipper  will  often  descend  from  the  box 
while  the  diligence  is  in  motion,  and  run  ahead,  in  order 
to  strike  the  forward  mules.  When  on  the  box  he  throws 
stones  at  the  leaders.  The  coachmen  generally  drive  in  a 
very  skillful  manner,  and  are  polite  in  their  deportment  to- 
ward the  passengers. 

Eight  mules  are  attached  to  each  vehicle  in  the  dry  sea- 
son, and  nine  in  the  rainy  season.  They  are  arranged  as 
follows  :  two  wheelers  and  two  leaders,  with  four  animals 
abreast  in  between.  Most  of  the  diligences  have  accommo- 
dation for  nine  persons  inside  and  three  outside.  The  in- 
side is  called  el  interior,  and  the  outside  el  pescmite.  A 
few  of  these  vehicles  have  broader  seats,  so  as  to  make  room 
for  twelve  passengers  within. 


14  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Travelers  in  the  pescante  should  be  on  the  lookout  for 
the  large  lamjis  that  are  hung  on  wires  across  the  streets,  at 
a  height  barely  sufficient  to  allow  the  diligence  to  clear  them 
while  passing  under. 

On  the  long  trijis  the  diligences  generally  start  at  4  a.  m., 
but  occasionally  not  till  5  and  6  A.  m.  About  80  miles  are 
traveled  daily,  which  occupies  from  twelve  to  fifteen  hours, 
according  to  the  condition  of  the  roads.  It  should  be  re- 
marked, that  not  more  than  two  or  three  diligence-roads  in 
the  whole  country  are  kept  in  rej)air,  and  the  shaking  and 
jolting  to  which  the  tourist  is  subjected  are  exceedingly  dis- 
agreeable. Experienced  Mexican  travelers  are  able  to  sleep 
in  the  diligence  during  the  early  morning,  but  this  is  sel- 
dom the  case  with  the  stranger. 

On  the  arrival  at  the  terminus  of  the  day's  journey,  a 
crowd  of  porters  and  vagrants  surround  the  vehicle,  and 
importune  the  passengers  to  allow  them  to  carry  their 
baggage.  A  fee  of  6^  cents  {un  medio)  is  sufficient  for 
the  transj)ortation  of  a  valise  for  a  distance  of  two  or  three 
squares. 

Two  dollars  is  the  usual  charge  at  the  diligence  taverns 
for  supper,  lodging,  and  breakfast.  The  price  for  lunch 
varies  from  25  cents  to  75  cents.  Passenger  fares  range 
from  G  to  10  cents  a  mile.  One  arroba  (25  pounds)  of  bag- 
gage is  carried  free,  but  the  rates  for  additional  weight  are 
very  high.  Bundles  of  shawls  and  small  boxes  held  in  the 
hand  are  not  charged  for. 

Hacks  may  be  hired  ^or  moderate  distances,  but  i30sting 
is  rare  in  the  country. 

HORSE-CAES. 

Tramways  have  been  built  in  almost  every  city  in  Mex- 
ico.    In  many  cases  tracks  have  been  laid  to  villages  10  and 

15  miles  distant,  and  a  few  horse-car  roads  connect  stations 
on  the  railways  with  towns  30,  40,  and  even  60  miles  off. 


TRA  YELINQ  IN  MEXICO.  15 

The  longest  tramway  is  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Jalapa,  a  dis- 
tance of  76  miles.  In  general  the  horse-car  tracks  are  well 
laid  out,  and  a  locomotive  and  train  of  cars  may  run  on 
them  at  some  future  time.  It  is  said  that  engines  will  soon 
be  put  on  the  tramways  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Jalapa,  and 
from  Puehla  to  Matamoros.  There  are  both  j)assenger  and 
freight  horse-cars  in  the  Kepublic,  the  former  being  divided 
into  first  and  second  class. 


nOESES   AND   MULES. 

Excepting  the  road  built  by  Cortes  from  Vera  Cruz  to 
the  capital,  all  communication  between  the  cities  and  towns 
of  Mexico  was  for  many  years  made  on  horseback.  This 
mode  of  traveling  is  still  common  in  the  rural  districts. 
Tourists  occasionally  make  trips,  with  a  few  pack-animals 
to  carry  baggage  and  provisions,  in  the  remote  parts  of 
the  Eepublic.  Eegular  pack-trains  of  mules  and  hurros,  or 
donkeys,  are  run  on  the  western  coast.  Horses  are  com- 
monly fed  on  straw  and  corn.  A  good  animal  may  be  pur- 
chased for  $50,  and  one  able  to  make  a  short  journey,  for 
$20.  Mules  can  be  bought  for  abo^^t  130.  If  the  tourist 
intends  making  a  trip  on  horseback  for  ten  days  or  longer, 
we  would  recommend  him  to  purchase  a  horse  instead  of 
hiring  one.  These  animals  are  always  in  demand,  and  can 
be  sold  at  a  slight  loss  on  the  completion  of  the  journey. 
The  average  price  for  a  saddle-horse  is  $1  per  diem.  In  the 
larger  cities  the  charge  will  be  a  little  more. 

Pedestrianism  in  Mexico  is  thus  far  unknown,  excejot- 
ing  in  the  ascents  of  the  lofty  volcanoes. 

EXPRESS. 

Wells,  Fargo  S  Co.  have  established  express  agencies 
at  the  following  places  in  the  Eepublic  :  Mexico  (city) ; 
Tula  ;  San  Juan  del  Eio  ;  Querotaro  ;  Celaya  ;  Salamanca  ; 
Irapuato  ;  Silao  ;  Guanajuato  ;  Leon  ;  Lagos  ;  Vera  Cruz  ; 


16  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Chihuahua  (city) ;  and  in  the  principal  ports  on  the  Pacific 
coast  of  Mexico. 

Messrs.  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.  also  carry  a  large  amount 
of  mail  matter  from  these  ports  to  San  Francisco  and  to 
New  York. 

II. 
History. 

It  would  be  foreign  to  the  aim  of  this  guide-book  to 
give  a  complete  history  of  Mexico  from  the  earliest  times 
to  the  present  day.  We  will  confine  ourselves  chiefly  to 
the  chronology  of  the  country. 

The  early  history  of  Mexico  is  involved  in  great  obscu- 
rity. The  traditions  of  the  aborigines  are  so  fabulous  as 
barely  to  deserve  mention. 

Picture-writings,  mostly  on  cloth  made  from  the  maguey 
fiber,  afford  the  principal  means  of  investigating  the  origin 
of  the  primitive  races.  Unfortunately,  nearly  all  of  these 
historical  illustrations  were  burned  by  order  of  the  Spanish 
bishop  Zumarraga,  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest.  A  few  of 
them  remain  in  Mexico,  principally  in  the  museum  at  the 
capital,  and  several  have  found  their  way  to  the  libraries  of 
Europe. 

According  to  an  old  painting,  on  maguey  cloth,  in  j)os- 
session  of  a  resident  of  XJruapan,  in  the  State  of  Michoacan, 
this  country  was  settled  by  Indians,  who  came  out  of  an 
immense  cave  and  traveled  over  the  realm  on  the  backs  of 
turtles,  founding  cities  and  towns  wherever  they  went. 

Very  little  is  known  of  the  ancient  history  of  Mexico, 
but,  according  to  the  best  authorities — 

The  Toltecs  appeared  in  648  a.  d. 

The  Chichimecs  appeared  in  1170  A.  D. 

The  Nahualtecs  ajopeared  in  1178  A.  d. 

The  Acolhuans  and  Aztecs  appeared  in  1196  a.  d. 


HISTORY.  17 

There  is  a  strong  similarity  of  languages  among  all  of 
these  races.  The  Aztecs,  according  to  Prescott,  reckoned 
their  calendar  from  a  date  corresponding  to  1091  A.  D. 
They  divided  the  year  into  eighteen  months  of  twenty 
days  each,  with  five  days  added.  Some  writers  believe 
the  Toltecs  to  be  the  mound-builders  of  North  Amer- 
ica, but  it  is  impossible  to  learn  the  names  of  their  sov- 
ereigns in  Mexico.  The  list  of  Chichimecan  kings  is  as 
follows  : 

Xolotl  began  to  reign  in  the  twelfth  century. 

Nopaltzin  began  to  reign  in  the  thirteenth  century. 

Tlotzin  began  to  reign  in  the  fourteenth  century. 

Quinatzin  began  to  reign  in  the  fourteenth  century. 

Tecotlalla  began  to  reign  in  the  fourteenth  century. 

Ixtlilochitl  began  to  reign  in  the  year  1406. 

Nezahualcoyotl  began  to  reign  in  the  year  1426. 

Nezahualpilli  began  to  reign  in  the  year  1470. 

Cacamatzin  began  to  reign  in  the  year  1516. 

Cuicuitzcatzin  began  to  reign  in  the  year  1520. 

Coanacotzin  began  to  reign  in  the  year  1520. 

We  are  not  aware  that  any  author  has  given  a  chrono- 
logical account  of  the  other  primitive  races. 

The  Aztecs  called  the  country  Analiuac;  and  the  capital 
Tenochtitlan,  which  occupied  the  present  site  of  the  City 
of  Mexico.  They  lived  in  barbaric  pomp  and  Oriental 
splendor.  Their  kings  and  princes  wore  the  most  gorgeous 
dresses  and  costly  jewels.  (Their  palaces  and  temples  are 
described  in  the  chapter  on  ruins.) 

The  reign  of  the  Montezumas  began  about  the  year 
1460.  At  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  Monte- 
zuma II  was  on  the  throne.  Authentic  Mexican  history 
really  dates  from  the  year  1517,  when  the  Spanish  naviga- 
tors began  to  explore  the  New  World.  The  dates  of  the 
principal  events  during  the  domination  of  the  Spaniards 
are  as  follows  : 


18  OEFERAL  INFORMATION. 

Feb.  28,  ISIT.  Cordova  discovered  Yucatan,  landing  at  Cape  Catoche, 

May  3,  1518.  Grijalva  landed  on  the  Isle  of  Cozumel,  and  called  Yucatan 
"  New  Spain." 

June  19,  1518.  Grijalva  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Tabasco,  and,  sail- 
ing up  the  Gulf  coast,  reached  the  Rio  Panuco,  afterward 
returning  to  Cuba.  He  was  the  first  Spanish  navigator 
who  set  foot  on  Mexican  soil,  and  opened  intercourse 
with  the  Aztecs. 

April  21,  1519.  Cortes  landed  at  Vera  Cruz,  and  soon  marched  toward  the 
City  of  Mexico,  building  a  wagon-road  thither. 

Nov.  8,    1519.  The  Spaniards  enter  the  ancient  capital. 

June  30,  1520.  Death  of  Montezuma. 

July  1,     1520.  The  Spaniards  evacuate  the  capital — noche  iriste. 

July  8,     1520.  The  battle  of  Otumba. 

May  30,   1521.  The  siege  of  the  City  of  Mexico  begins. 

Aug.  13,  1521.  Surrender  of  the  capital  to  Cortes. 

1528.  First  audiencia  inaugurated  with  Nufio  de  Guzman,  Presi- 
dent. 
1535.  Mint  founded  in  Mexico. 
1535.  Rule  of  the  viceroys  began. 

There  were  sixty-four  viceroys  in  two  hundred  and 
eighty-six  years,  i.  e.,  up  to  1821.  All  of  them  were  Eu- 
ropeans except  one,  Juan  de  Acuiia  (1722-'34),  who  was 
born  in  Peru.  They  were  endowed  with  royal  prerogatives. 
During  the  vice-kingdom,  Mexico  was  treated  by  Spain  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  English  governed  the  United  States 
before  the  American  Eevolution.  In  other  words,  there 
were  great  restrictions  on  commerce  and  agriculture.  For- 
eign ships  were  not  allowed  to  enter  the  ports.  Learning 
was  discouraged.  The  first  and  most  prominent  viceroy 
was  Antonio  de  Mekdoza  (1535-'50). 

Many  reforms  and  discoveries  were  made  during  his 
administration.  Next  to  him,  Pacheco  (1789-'94)  became 
most  famous. 

Some  of  the  other  viceroys  were — ^Yelasco,  Alamanza, 
Montesclaros,  Salinas  (who  began  the  canal  of  Huehuetoca, 
in  1607),  Villena,  Guelves,  Ceralvo,  Monclova,  De  Croix, 


mSTORY.  10 

Monterey,  Iturrigaray,  Bucareli,  and  Juan  O'Donoju,  who 
was  the  last  one. 

1536.  Cortes  discovered  Lower  California. 

Dec.  2,     1554.  Cortes  died  in  Spain. 

1810.  llidalgo  and  Morelos,  two  curates,  declare  against  the  Span- 
ish domination.  A  revolution  follows,  the  army  of  the 
former  is  defeated,  and — 

July  31,  1811,  Hidalgo  is  executed  in  Chihuahua.  The  war  of  independ- 
ence lasted  about  ten  years.  The  principal  patriots 
were  Allende,  Abasolo,  and  Aldama,  besides  Hidalgo  and 
Morelos.  States  have  been  named  after  the  last  two 
heroes,  and  towns  bear  the  names  of  the  others. 

Aug.  23, 1821.  Mexico  became  independent  by  the  treaty  of  Aquala. 

1821.  Agustin  Iturbide,  President  of  a  provisional  Junta;  Mexi- 
co formed  into  an  empire ;  the  crown  declined  by  Spain. 

May  19,  1822.  Iturbide  proclaimed  Emperor. 

Dec.  2,     1822.  The  Republic  proclaimed  at  Vera  Cruz. 

Mar.  26,  1823.  Iturbide  compelled  to  abdicate. 
1823.  Provisional  government. 

July  19,  1824.  Iturbide  went  to  England ;  returns  and  endeavors  to  recover 
his  dignity,  but  is  shot  near  Tampico. 

Oct.  4,  1824.  First  Constitution  established,  which  is  similar  to  that  of  the 
United  States  of  America.  The  President  must  be  native- 
boi'n,  and  holds  office  for  a  term  of  four  years.  The 
President,  national  delegates,  governors  of  the  several 
States,  and  their  deputies,  are  elected  by  the  people.  The 
power  of  the  Mexican  Government  consists  of  the  execu- 
tive, legislative,  and  judiciary. 

April,      1825.  Commercial  treaty  with  Great  Britain. 
1825.  Guadalupe  Victoria,  first  President. 

1828.  Gomez  Pedraza  becomes  next  President. 

1829.  The  United  States  recognizes  the  Mexican  Republic. 
March,     1829.  Expulsion  of  the  Spaniards  decreed. 

1829.  Guerrero  third  President. 

Sept.  26,  1829.  Spanish  expedition  against  Mexico,  surrendered. 
Dec.  23,  1829.  Mexican  revolution;  President  Guerrero  deposed. 

1830.  Anastasio  Bustamante,  fourth  President. 
Feb.  14,  1831.  Guerrero  executed. 

1833.  Pedraza  President  again  for  a  few  weeks. 
April  1,  1833.  Santa  Anna,  fifth  President. 


20  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Dec.  28,  1836.  Independence  of  Mexico  recognized  by  Spain. 

April  19, 1837.  Bustamante  again  President. 

Nov.  30,  1838.  Declaration  of  war  against  France. 

March  9, 1839.  This  war  terminated. 

Mar.  &  July, "    Santa  Anna,  revolutionary  provisional  President. 

1839.  Nicolas  Bravo,  President  for  one  week ;  sixth  President, 
1841-44.  Santa  Anna,  Nicolas  Bravo,  and  Canalizo,  dictators. 

1844.  Santa  Anna,  President  for  third  time ;  seventh  President. 

Sept.  20, 1844.  Canalizo,  President  for  second  time;  eighth  President. 

June  4,  1845.  War  with  the  United  States,  growing  out  of  the  annexation 
of  Texas.  The  question  was  a  disputed  boundary-line. 
Mexico  claimed  that  the  Nueces  River  was  the  frontier 
line,  while  the  United  States  maintained  that  the  Rio 
Grande  was  the  proper  boundary — hence  the  war.  Gen- 
eral Zachary  Taylor  began  the  hostilities  on  the  side  of 
the  latter. 

Dec,        1845.  Herrera  becomes  ninth  President. 

1846.  The  Mexicans  defeated  at  Palo  Alto,  May  8th ;  and  subse- 

quently at  Matamoros. 
Aug.  22,  1846.  Santa  F^  captured. 
Sept.  24,  1846.  Battle  of  Monterey. 

1847.  Paredes,  tenth  President. 

Feb.  22,  1847.  Battle  of  Buena  Vista ;  the  Mexicans  defeated  by  General 
Taylor,  with  great  loss,  after  two  days'  fighting.  Santa 
Anna  commanded  the  former. 

March  9, 1847.  Scott  landed  at  Vera  Cruz,  and  marched  westward. 

April  18, 1847.  The  Americans,  under  General  Scott,  defeat  the  Mexicans 
under  Santa  Anna,  making  6,000  prisoners. 

Sept.  14,  1847.  Scott  captured  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1848.  Santa  Anna,  President  fourth  time;  eleventh  President. 
May  19,  1848.  Treaty  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States  ratified. 

1850.  Herrera,  President  second  time ;  twelfth  President. 

1852.  Arista,  President ;  thirteenth  President. 
Sept.,       1852.  Political  convulsions. 

Jan.  6,  1853.  President  Arista  resigns,  and  Santa  Anna  is  invited  to  re- 
turn. 

1853.  Santa  Anna,  President  fifth  time  ;  fourteenth  President. 
Jan.,        1855.  lie  abdicates;  Carrera  elected  President;   fifteenth  Presi- 
dent. 

Dec,        1855.  Carrera  also  abdicates,  and  is  succeeded  by  Alvarez. 
1855.  Alvarez,  President ;  sixteenth  President. 


HISTORY.  21 

Mar.  31,  1856.  Property  of  the  clergy  sequestrated. 

Feb.  5,     1857.  New  Constitution. 

July,        1857.  Comonfort  chosen  President ;  seventeenth  President. 

Jan.  11,  1858.   Coup  d'' Hat ;  Comonfort  compelled  to  retire. 

Jan.  21-26,  "     General  Zuloaga  takes  the  government. 

Feb.  11,  1858.  Benito  Juarez  declared  constitutional  President  at  Vera  Cruz; 
eighteenth  President. 

Aug.  to  Nov.,"   Civil  war;  several  engagements. 

Jan.  6,  1859.  General  Miguel  Miramon  nominated  President  at  Mexico  by 
the  Junta ;  nineteenth  President. 

Feb.  2,    1859.  Zuloaga  abdicates. 

Feb.,  1859.  In  consequence  of  injury  to  British  subjects,  ships  of  war 
are  sent  to  Mexico. 

April  10, 1859.  Miramon  forces  the  lines  of  the  Liberal  generals,  enters  the 
capital,  assumes  his  functions  as  govei'nor,  and  governs 
without  respect  to  the  laws  of  life  and  property. 

July  13,  1859.  Juarez  confiscates  the  Church  property. 

Dec.  21,  1859.  Miramon  and  the  clerical  party  defeat  the  Liberals  under 
Colima. 

Mar.  5,  1860.  He  besieges  Vera  Cruz;  bombards  it;  March  21st,  com- 
pelled to  raise  the  siege. 

May  1,  1860.  General  Zuloaga  deposes  Miramon,  and  assumes  the  presi- 
dency; twentieth  President. 

May  9,  1860.  Miramon  arrests  Zuloaga;  May  10th,  the  diplomatic  bodies 
suspend  official  relations  with  the  former. 

Aug.  10,  1860.  Miramon  defeated  by  Degollado. 

Oct.,  1860.  He  governs  Mexico  with  much  tyranny  ;  the  foreign  minis- 
ters quit  the  City. 

Jan.  19,  1861.  He  is  compelled  to  retire ;  Juarez  enters  Mexico  and  ia 
re-elected  President ;  twenty-first  President. 

June  30, 1861.  Juarez  made  dictator  by  the  Congress. 

July  lY,  1861.  The  Mexican  Congress  decides  to  suspend  payments  to  for- 
eigners for  two  years — 

July  27,  1861.  Which  leads  to  the  breaking  off  of  diplomatic  relations  with 
England  and  France. 

Oct.  31,  1861.  In  consequence  of  many  gross  outrages  on  foreigners,  the 
British,  French,  and  Spanish  Governments,  after  much 
vain  negotiation,  claiming  efficient  protection  of  for- 
eigners, and  the  payment  of  arrears  due  to  fund-holders, 
sign  a  convention  engaging  to  combine  in  hostile  opera- 
tions against  Mexico. 


22  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Dec.  8,  1861.  Spanish  troops  land  at  Vera  Cruz;  December  l^th,  it  sur- 
renders. 

Dec.  15,  1861.  The  Mexica#i  Congress  dissolves,  after  conferring  full  powers 
on  the  President. 

Jan.  7, 8, 1862.  A  British  naval  and  French  military  expedition  arrives. 

Jan.,  1862.  The  Mexicans  determine  on  resistance,  and  invest  Vera 
Cruz ;  their  taxes  are  raised  25  per  cent. 

Feb.,  1862.  Miramon  arrives,  but  is  sent  back  to  Spain  by  the  British 
admiral. 

Feb.,  1862.  Project  of  establishing  a  Mexican  monarchy  for  the  Arch- 
duke Maximilian  of  Austria  disapproved  of  by  the  British 
and  Spanish  Governments. 

Feb.  19,  1862.  Negotiation  ensues  between  the  Spaniards  and  Mexicans; 
convention  between  the  commissaries  of  the  allies  and 
the  Mexican  General  Doblado  at  Soledad. 

March,  1862.  The  Mexican  General  Marquez  takes  up  arms  against  Juarez, 
and  General  Almonte  joins  the  French  General  Lorencez. 
Juarez  demands  a  compulsory  loan,  and  puts  Mexico  in  a 
state  of  siege. 

April  9,  1862.  Conference  between  plenipotentiaries  of  the  allies  at  Ori- 
zaba; the  English  and  Spaniards  declare  for  peace, 
which  is  not  agreed  to  by  the  French,  who  declare  war 
against  Juarez  on  April  16th. 

May,  1862.  The  Spanish  and  British  forces  retire ;  the  French  Govern- 
ment sends  re-enforcements  to  Lorencez. 

May  5,  1862.  The  French,  induced  by  Marquez,  advance  into  the  interior; 
severely  repulsed  by  General  Zaragoza,  at  Fort  Guada- 
lupe, near  Puebla. 

June  13, 14,  "  The  French  defeat  the  Mexicans  at  Cerro  del  Borrego,  near 
Orizaba. 

August,  1862.  The  Mexican  Liberals  said  to  be  desirous  of  negotia- 
tion. 

Aug.  28,  1862.  General  Forey  and  2,500  French  soldiers  land. 

Sept.,  1862.  Letter  from  the  Emperor  Napoleon  to  Lorencez,  disclaiming 
any  intention  of  imposing  a  government  on  Mexico,  an- 
nounced. 

Sept.  8,    1862.  Death  of  Zaragoza,  a  great  loss  to  the  Mexicans. 

Oct.,  1862.  General  Forey  deprives  Almonte  of  the  presidency  at  Vera 
Cruz,  and  appropriates  the  civil  and  military  power  to 
himself. 

Oct.  19,    1862.  Ortega  takes  command  of  the  Mexican  army. 


HISTORY.  23 

Oct.  27,  1862.  The  Mexican  Congress  assembles,  and  protests  against  the 
French  invasion. 

Jan.  13,  1863.  The  French  evacuate  Tampico. 

Feb.  24,  1863.  Forey  marches  toward  Mexico. 

Mar.  29,  1863.  Siege  of  Puebla,  bravely  defended;  severe  assault,  March 
31st  to  April  3d. 

May  18,  1863.  It  is  surrendered  at  discretion  by  Ortega. 

May  31,   1863.  The  Republican  Government  remove  to  San  Luis  Potosi. 

June  5,    1863.  Mexico  occupied  by  the  French,  under  Bazaine. 

June  10,  1863.  His  army  enters  the  capital. 

July  10,  1863.  Assembly  of  notables  at  Mexico  decide  on  the  establish- 
ment of  a  limited  hereditary  monarchy,  with  a  Roman 
Catholic  prince  as  Emperor,  and  offer  the  crown  to  the 
Archduke  Maximilian  of  Austria  ;  a  regency  established. 

Aug.  11,  1863.  The  French  reoccupy  Tampico. 

Oct.  1,  1863.  Marshal  Forey  resigns  his  command  to  Bazaine,  and  returns 
to  France. 

Oct.  3,  1863.  The  Archduke  Maximilian  accepts  the  crown,  under  condi- 
tions. 

Nov.  12,  1863.  The  Mexican  General  Comonfort  surprised  and  shot  by  par- 
tisans. 

Dec.  18,  1863.  Successful  advance  of  the  imperialists ;  Juarez  retires  from 
San  Luis  Potosi. 

Dec.  24,  1863.  It  is  entered  by  the  imperialists. 

Jan.,  Feb.,  '64.  The  French  occupy  various  places. 

Feb.  27,  1864.  The  ex-President,  General  Santa  Anna,  lands  at  Vera  Cruz, 
professing  adhesion  to  the  empire ;  March  12th,  dismissed 
by  Bazaine. 

April  3,  1864.  Juarez  enters  Monterey,  which  becomes  the  seat  of  the  Re- 
publican Government. 

April  10, 1864.  The  Archduke  Maximilian  definitively  accepts  the  crown 
from  the  Mexican  deputation  at  Miramar. 

May  29,  1864.  The  Emperor  and  Empress  land  at  Vera  Cruz;  June  12th, 
enter  the  City  of  Mexico. 

August,    1864.  The  Emperor  visits  the  interior ;  grants  a  free  press. 

Dec.  27,  1864.  The  Republicans  defeat  the  Imperialists  at  San  Pedro. 

Jan.  1,  1865.  Juarez  at  Chihuahua  exhorts  the  Mexicans  to  maintain  their 
independence. 

Jan.  18,   1865.  The  Emperor  institutes  the  order  of  the  Mexican  Eagle. 

Feb.  9,     1865.  Surrender  of  Oaxaca  to  Marshal  Bazaine. 

April  10, 1865.  A  temporary  Constitution  promulgated. 


24  GENERAL  INFOBMATIOK 

June,  1865.  Ortega,  at  New  York,  enlists  recruits  for  the  Republican 
army,  which  is  discountenanced  by  the  United  States 
Government, 
Maximilian  I  (brother  to  the  Emperor  of  Austria),  born  July 
6,  1832;  accepted  the  crown  April  10,  1864;  married, 
July  27,  1857,  to  Princess  Charlotte,  daughter  of  Leo- 
pold I,  King  of  the  Belgians;  adopts  Augustus  Iturbide 
as  his  heir,  September,  1865. 

October,  1865.  The  Emperor  proclaims  the  end  of  the  war,  and  martial  law 
against  all  armed  bands  of  men. 

October,  1865.  Juarez  re-elected  President  second  time. 

June  19,  1867.  Execution  of  Maximilian  at  Queretaro. 
1869.  Juarez  re-elected  President  third  time. 

July  18,  1872.  Death  of  President  Juarez. 

1872.  Lerdo  dc  Tejada,  twenty-second  President. 

Jan.  17,  1873.  English  railway,  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico  (263  miles),  com- 
pleted. 

June  20,  1876.  Death  of  Santa  Anna. 

Oct.,  Nov.,  "  Serious  revolution  in  Mexico.  Lerdo  de  Tejada,  though 
elected  a  second  time,  is  prevented  by  the  Diaz  party 
from  serving  as  President. 

Dec.  1,     1876.  Juan  N.  Mendez,  twenty-third  (provisional)  President. 

May  5,      1877.  Porfirio  Diaz,  twenty-fourth  President. 

May  5,  1877.  Amendment  of  the  Constitution,  prohibiting  the  election  of 
the  President  and  the  Governors  of  the  States  to  a  sec- 
ond term  of  office. 

Dec.  1,     1880.  Manuel  Gonzalez,  twenty-fifth  President. 

Dec.  1,     1884.  Manuel  Gonzalez's  term  expires.* 

It  is  generally  conceded  that  Porfirio  Diaz,  the  present 
Governor  of  the  State  of  Oaxaca,  will  become  the  next 
President  of  the  Republic.  No  revolution  has  taken 
place  since  1876.     • 

Books  of  reference  :  Prescott,  Conquest  of  Mexico ; 
Eobertson,  History  of  America ;  Lucas  Alaman,  Historia 
de  Mejico  ;  Zamacois,  Historia  de  Mejico. 

*  Many  of  these  events  are  taken  from  Haydn's  Dictionary  of  Dates. 


GEOGRAPHY.  25 

III. 
Geography. 

Situation". — The  Mexican  Eepiiblic  extends  from  the 
15th  to  the  32d  degrees  of  north  latitnde,  and  from  the 
87th  to  the  117th  meridians  of  longitude  west  from  Green- 
wich.* 

Boundaries. — Mexico  is  bounded  07i  the  north  by  the 
United  States  of  America,  whose  frontier  is  marked  as  fol- 
lows :  from  the  mouth  of  tlie  Eio  Bravo,  or  Eio  Grande 
del  Norte,  following  the  course  of  the  river  to  the  paral- 
lel of  31°  47' ;  thence  it  is  continued  for  100  miles  to  the 
west  on  the  same  parallel,  then  to  the  south  to  latitude 
31°  11'.  It  now  follows  the  latter  parallel  to  the  111th 
meridian,  and  then  runs  to  the  northwest  as  far  as  the 
Eio  Colorado,  in  latitude  32°  29'  45",  and,  crossing  this 
river,  is  marked  by  the  dividing  line  between  Upper  and 
Lower  California  at  the  Bay  of  San  Diego.  The  length 
of  the  northern  frontier  is  1,900  miles.  On  the  east,  by 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean ;  on  the  ivest, 
by  the  Pacific  Ocean  ;  and,  on  the  south,  by  the  Eepublic 
of  Guatemala  f  and  the  territory  of  Balize,  or  British  Hon- 
duras. 

Akea. — Mexico  contains,  according  to  Busto's  Esta- 
distica  de  la  RepiiUica  Mexicana,  1,958,912  square  kilo- 
metres, or  756,336  square  miles.  The  Statesman's  Year- 
Booh  gives  the  area  at  743,948  square  miles. 

Topography. — Mountains. — The  Eepublic  is  traversed 
by  the  continuation  of  the  Cordillera  of  South  America, 
which  in  Mexico  is  called  the  Sierra  Madre.  It  trends 
northwesterly  from  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec. 

*  Approximately. 

f  The  long-disputed  boundary  question  between  Mexico  and  Guatemala 
ha3  recently  been  decided  in  favor  of  the  former, 
% 


26 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


This  range  lias  a  moderate  elevation  in  the  southern 
States  of  Chiapas  and  Oaxaca ;  but  in  latitude  19°,  the 
mean  altitude  is  about  9,000  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and 
two  peaks,  Popocatepetl  and  Orizaba,  rise  to  the  great  ele- 
vations of  17,720  feet  and  17,200  feet  respectively.  The 
former  mountain  is  the  culminating  point  of  North  Amer- 


Scene  in  Mexico. 

ica.  On  the  parallel  of  21°  the  Cordillera  becomes  very- 
wide,  and  divides  itself  into  three  ranges.  The  eastern 
branch  runs  to  Saltillo  and  Monterey  ;  the  western  branch 
traverses  the  States  of  Jalisco  and  Sinaloa,  and  subsides  in 
Northern  Sonora  ;  while  the  central  ridge  extends  through 
the  States  of  Durango  and  Chihuahua,  forming  the  water 
shed  of  the  northern  table-land 
elevation  in  going  northward. 


The  range  decreases  in 


GEOGRAPHY. 


27 


Four  peaks — viz.,  Popocatepetl,  Iztacciliuatl,  Orizaba, 
the  Nevada  de  Toluca — rise  above  15,000  feet ;  and  three 
others — the  Cofre  de  Perote,  Ajusco,  and  the  volcano  of 
Colima — are  upward  of  11,000  feet  in  altitude.     (The  exact 
heights  of  these  mountains  are  given  in  Part  II.)     Eefer- 
ring  to  these  lofty  peaks,  Humboldt  remarks  :*  ''On  the 
great  table-land,  the  colossal  mountains  covered  with  per- 
j    petual  snow  seem,  as  it  were,  to  rise  out  of  a  plain.     The 
spectator  confounds  the  ridge  of  the  soft  swelling  land,  the 
'    elevated  plain,  with  the  plain  of  the  lowlands,  and  it  is 
I    only  from  a  change  of  climate,  the  lowering  of  the  tem- 
perature under  the  same  degree  of  latitude,  that  he  is  re- 
minded of  the  height  to  which,  he  has  ascended." 

The  country  is  divided  into  three  zones — viz.,  the  tierra 
caUente,  or  hot  land  ;  the  tierra  templada,  or  temperate 
land  ;  and  the  tierra  fria,  or  cold  land.  About  one  half  of 
tlie  surface  of  Mexico  lies  in  the  latter  zone,  the  remainder 
of  the  Republic  being  almost  equally  divided  between  the 
tierra  templada  and  tierra  caliente.  Geographers  differ  in 
defining  the  limits  of  the  various  zones,  as  is  shown  by  the 
following  table : 


ZONES. 


Tierra  caliente . . 
Tierra  templada . 
Tierra  fria 


According  to  Humboldt. 


Up  to  3,9.36  feet. 
Up  to  7,217  feet. 
Above  7,217  feet. 


According  to  Milner. 


Up  to  2,000  feet. 
From  2,000  to  5,000  feet. 
From  5,000  to  8,000  feet. 


The  coasts  of  the  Eepublic  are  low,  but  the  land  rises 
gradually  upon  going  toward  the  interior.  The  flat  region 
of  the  eastern  j)art  of  Mexico  is  wider  than  that  of  the 
western  coast.  In  the  former  the  tierra  caliente  has  an 
average  breadth  of  about  65  miles,  while  in  the  latter  it 
varies  from  40  to  70  miles. 


*  Cosmos,  vol,  V,  p.  379. 


28  GENERAL  INFORMATIOK 

The  annexed  cut  shows  an  exaggerated  profile  of  the 
country  between  the  two  oceans  : 


TahU-land. 


Mexico  consists  for  the  greater  part  of  an  elevated  pla-  " 
teau  having  a  mean  height  of  about  6,000  feet  above  the 
sea-level.  This  plateau  extends  from  the  frontier  of  the 
United  States  to  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec.  It  is  widest 
in  the  latitude  of  the  national  capital,  being  about  350  miles 
at  this  point,  and  contracts  gradually  toward  the  south. 

The  principal  table-lands  of  the  northern  Mexican  pla- 
teau are  that  of  Chihuahua,  which  lies  north  of  latitude 
24°,  and  east  of  the  Conchos  and  Florida  Eivers,  and  hav- 
ing an  elevation  of  from  4,000  to  6,000  feet,  and  that  of 
Anahuac,  which  is  from  6,000  to  8, 000  feet  high.  There  are 
four  distinct  table-lands  on  the  central  plateau,  as  follows  : 

That  of  Toluca,  having  a  mean  elevation  of  8,570  feet. 

That  of  Tcnochtitlan,     "  "  7,470  feet. 

That  of  Aclopan,  "  "  6,450  feet. 

That  of  Istla,  "  "  3,320  feet. 

Two  passes,  about  500  miles  apart,  afford  an  outlet  from 
the  great  table-land  to  the  eastward — viz.,  that  of  Jalapa, 
through  which  Cortes  built  a  road  during  the  Conquest ; 
and  one  at  Saltillo,  through  which  the  United  States  troops 
reached  the  plateau  during  the  Mexican  War. 

In  referring  to  the  uniform  character  of  the  surface  of 
the  great  plateau  of  Mexico,  Humboldt  has  remarked  in 
the  Cosmos,  vol.  v,  p.  380,  that  the  traveler  may  proceed 
in  a  four-wheeled  carriage  on  the  ridge  of  the  table-land, 
from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Santa  Fe,  a  distance  of  at  least 


GEOGRAPHY.  29 

1,200  miles,  without  the  advantage  of  artificially  prepared 
roads. 

KiVEKS. — Mexico,  on  account  of  the  narrow  form  of  the 
continent,  which  prevents  the  collection  of  a  great  mass  of 
water,  contains  very  few  navigable  streams,  the  principal 
ones  being  the  Goatzacoalcos  and  Panuco  Eivers.  There 
are  sand-bars  at  the  mouths  of  many  of  the  rivers,  on  which 
not  more  than  three  or  four  feet  of  water  is  to  be  found  at 
low  tide.  Several  streams  could  be  made  navigable  at  com- 
paratively small  expense.  This  fact  would  apply  especially 
to  the  Eio  de  Santiago,  the  longest  river  in  the  Eepublic, 
according  to  Humboldt,  who  states  that  it  is  as  long  as  the 
Elbe  or  Rhone,  and  that  the  grain  from  the  States  of  Gua- 
najuato and  Jalisco  could  be  thus  transported  to  the  west- 
ern coast. 

The  following  list  gives  the  names  and  lengths  of  the 
princijjal  rivers  in  Mexico  : 

Miles.  Miles. 

Rio  dc  Santiago 542  j  Rio  Panuco 286 

Rio  de  las  Balzas 418    Rio  de  Sinaloa 2Y7 

Rio  Yaqui 338    Rio  de  Ures 208 

Rio  Conchos 338    Rio  de  Culiacan 156 

Rio  de  Grijalva 344    Rio  de  Goatzacoalcos 112 

Rio  TJsumasinta 341  I 

Lakes. — There  are  many  lakes  on  the  Mexican  plateau, 
most  of  which  are  extensive  shallow  lagoons,  as  in  the  val- 
leys of  Mexico  and  Parras.  They  are  only  the  remains  of 
large  basins  of  water  that  formerly  existed  on  the  high 
plains  of  the  Cordillera.  The  majority  of  these  lakes  have 
no  outlet,  and  are  accordingly  filled  with  salt  water.  Owing 
to  rapid  evaporation,  their  surface  has  diminished  appreci- 
ably since  the  time  of  the  Spanish  Conquest. 

The  Lagoon  {laguna)  of  Terminos,  on  the  coast  of  the 
Gulf  of  Campeche,  is  the  largest  in  Mexico,  but  it  is  an 
arm  of  the  sea,  rather  than  a  lake. 


30  GENERAL  INFORMATIOK 

Strictly  speaking,  the  Lake  of  Chapala,  in  tlie  State  of 
Jalisco,  is  the  largest  in  the  country.  Lake  Patzcuaro  and 
Lake  Cuitzeo  are  next  in  importance  among  the  inland  bod- 
ies of  fresh  water. 

Islands. — Mexico  owns  many  islands  on  the  west  coast, 
the  principal  of  which  are  San  Ignacio,  Angel  de  la  Guarda, 
Salsipuedes,  Tibaron,  Carmen,  and  Cerralvo,  in  the  Gulf  of 
California ;  Cerros,  Santa  Margarita,  and  Las  Tres  Marias, 
in  the  Pacific  Ocean.  There  are  also  several  islands  belong- 
ing to  the  Republic  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  off  the  coast 
of  Yucatan,  of  which  the  most  important  are  Carmen,  in 
the  former,  and  Mugeres,  Cancun,  and  Cozumel,  adjoining 
the  latter. 

Guano  islands  abound  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  some  of  them  being  claimed  by  citizens  of  the 
United  States. 

Climate. — ISTo  country  on  the  globe  has  a  greater  variety 
of  climate  than  Mexico.  The  mean  temperature  of  the  three 
zones  is  as  follows  :  for  the  tierra  caliente,  77°;  for  the  tierra 
templada,  from  68°  to  70°  ;  and  in  the  tierra  fria,  G2°  Fahr. 
Extremes  of  temperature  are  comi:)aratively  rare  in  the  lat- 
ter, and  unknown  in  the  tierra  temjilada,  but  they  are  fre- 
quent in  the  former  zone.  In  Vera  Cruz,  the  mercury  often 
stands  at  90°  in  the  warm  season,  but,  if  the  wind  suddenly 
changes  to  the  northward,  it  will  sink  to  65°  Fahr.  in  a  few 
hours. 

The  rainy  season  varies  slightly  in  different  parts  of 
Mexico,  but  always  occurs  in  summer.  In  Yucatan,  Cam- 
peche.  Tabasco,  and  Chiapas,  it  lasts  from  May  to  October, 
while  the  season  begins  a  little  later  in  the  States  of  Oaxaca 
and  Guerrero.  In  the  latitude  of  the  national  capital,  the 
rains  fall  between  June  1st  and  October  1st,  with  occasional 
showers  during  the  winter,  especially  in  February,  when 
the  weather  is  very  changeable.  The  Mexicans  have  a  prov- 
erb which  runs  thus : 


GEOGRAPHY.  31 

"Febrero  loco, 
Porque  de  todo, 
Tiene  un  poco," 

which,  being  interpreted,  means,  February  is  a  fool  be- 
cause it  has  a  little  of  everything,  i.  e.,  all  kinds  of 
weather. 

According  to  Humboldt,  the  annual  rainfall  at  the  City 
of  Mexico  amounts  to  fifty-nine  inches.  In  the  northern 
part  of  Mexico,  the  rainy  season  is  in  the  months  of  July, 
August,  September,  and  half  of  October. 

Snow  falls  in  winter  at  an  elevation  of  about  8,500  feet. 
According  to  Humboldt,  the  line  of  perpetual  snow  in  Mex- 
ico is  15,091  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.* 

The  atmosphere  on  the  Mexican  plateau  is  very  dry. 
This  aridity  proceeds  from  two  causes  :  1.  The  evapora- 
tion that  occurs  on  great  plains,  which  is  increased  by  the 
high  table-land  ;  and,  2.  The  country  is  not  sufficiently 
elevated  for  a  considerable  number  of  the  mountains  to 
penetrate  the  region  of  perpetual  snow.  Tourists  are  liable 
to  suffer  from  thirst  and  chapped  lips  on  arriving  in  the 
valley  of  Mexico,  owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  climate. 
The  nights  are  cold  throughout  the  year  on  the  great 
table-land  north  of  the  eighteenth  parallel  of  latitude.  In 
general,  the  temperature  Avill  sink  as  low  as  45°  Fahr.,  and 
occasionally  the  thermometer  will  fall  to  the  freezing-point 
on  the  higher  plains.  The  coldest  part  of  the  night  is  just 
before  daybreak.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  snow-clad  moun- 
tains, the  sky  is  usually  free  from  clouds  in  the  early 
morning,  but  toward  nine  o'clock  they  rise  gradually,  and 
often  cover  the  higher  peaks  for  the  remainder  of  the 
day.  In  the  tierra  caliente,  and  in  the  greater  part  of  the 
tierra  templada,  a  clear  sky  prevails,  as  a  rule,  during  the 
entire  year,  except  for  a  few  hours  of  the  day  during  the 
rainy  season  {el  ticmpo  de  ayna).  Strong  winds  are  com- 
*  Under  the  equator  the  snow-line  is  estimated  at  15,750  feet. 


32  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

in  on  on  the  table-land,  and  the  dust  often  rises  in  clouds 
on  the  sandy  plains. 

Political  Divisions. — New  SiJain  was  formerly  di- 
vided into  ten  districts,  viz.  :  The  kingdoms  of  Mexico, 
New  Galicia,  and  Leon  ;  the  colony  of  New  Santander,  and 
the  provinces  of  Texas,  Coahuila,  New  Biscay,  Sonora,  New 
Mexico,  and  the  two  Californias. 

The  country  was  subsequently  partitioned  into  twelve 
intendancies  and  three  provinces,  as  follows  : 

1.  The  province  of  New  Mexico. 

2.  The  intendancy  of  New  Biscay,  or  Durango. 

3.  The  province  of  New  California. 

4.  The  province  of  Old  California. 
6.  The  intendancy  of  Sonora. 

6.  The  intendancy  of  San  Luis  Potosi.* 

7.  The  intendancy  of  Zacatecas. 

8.  The  intendancy  of  Guadalajara. 

9.  The  intendancy  of  Guanajuato. 

10.  The  intendancy  of  Valladolid. 

11.  The  intendancy  of  Mexico,  f 

12.  The  intendancy  of  Puebla. 

13.  The  intendancy  of  Vera  Cruz. 

14.  The  intendancy  of  Oaxaca. 

15.  The  intendancy  of  Merida,  or  Yucatan. 

The  Republic  of  Mexico  is  now  divided  into  twenty- 
seven  States,  one  Territory,  and  one  Federal  District.  The 
several  States  are  subdivided  into  48  departments,  170  dis- 
tricts, 48  cantons,  110  counties,  1,411  municipalities,  146 
cities,  378  towns,  4,886  villages,  872  hamlets,  6  missions, 
5,869  haciendas,  and  14,705  ranches. 

The  populations  of  the  several  States  are  given  in  the 
chapter  on  the  census.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  however, 
that  Jalisco  has  the  largest  number  of  inhabitants.     The 

*  The  largest  as  regards  area, 
f  The  largest  in  population. 


LITERATURE. 


33 


following  is  a  list  of  the  Mexican  States,  classified  accord- 
ing to  superficial  area  : 


Square  kilometres. 

Chihuahua 227,716 

Sonora 209,694 

Lower  California  (Territory)  152,847 

Coahuila  de  Zaragoza 152,517 

Jalisco 114,896 

Durango 110,463 

Yucatan 84,585 

Tamaulipas 75,191 

San  Luis  rotosi 71,210 

Vera  Cruz-Llave 71,116 

Oaxaca 70,838 

Sinaloa 69,211 

Zacatecas 68,596 

Guerrero 68,568 


Square  kilometrep. 

Michoacan  dc  Ocampo 55,693 

Chiapas 43,930 

Nuevo  Leon 38,156 

Tabasco 32,935 

Puebla 31,120 

Mexico 25,972 

Hidalgo 21,693 

Guanajuato 20,276 

Queretaro  de  Orteaga 8,300 

Colima 7,136 

Aguascalientes 5,776 

Morelos 4,536 

Tlaxcala 3,898 

Federal  District 231 


Campeche 67,539 

Total 1,958,912 


IV. 

Literature. 

Up  to  the  present  time  Mexican  literature  has  occupied 
a  subordinate  position  compared  to  that  of  Europe  and  the 
United  States.  The  people  of  Mexico  are  acquainted  more 
extensively  with  French  literature  than  with  that  of  any- 
other  country.  Prieto  is  the  great  national  poet ;  while  Cu- 
ello,  Mateos,  Contreras,  Paz,  Peza,  Payno,  Altimirano,  Justo 
Sierra,  Carpio,  and  Eiva  Palacio  are  the  best-known  novel- 
ists.    The  latter  author  is  also  a  dramatic  writer. 

The  prevailing  style  of  books  that  are  read  in  the  Re- 
public are  Spanish  translations  of  French  and  English  vol- 
umes. Books  are  admitted  free  of  duty,  and  many  of  the 
works  used  in  the  country  are  jirinted  in  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage at  Paris. 


34  GENERAL  mFORMATIOK 


Euins. 

Excepting  the  teocallis,  or  pyramids,  all  of  the  impor- 
tant ruins  in  Mexico  are  situated  in  the  States  of  Yucatan, 
Chiapas,  and  Oaxaca. 

A  discussion  of  the  comparative  ages  of  these  ancient 
remains,  together  with  the  most  plausible  theories  as  to 
their  origin,  would  be  foreign  to  the  purpose  of  this  vol- 
ume. Suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  Mexican  antiquarians  of 
the  present  day  consider  the  ruins  of  Uxmal,  in  Northern 
Yucatan,  to  be  the  oldest  ;  those  of  Palenque,  in  Chiapas, 
next  in  rank  ;  and  Mitla,  in  Oaxaca,  third  in  point  of  age. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  neither  Palenque  nor  Mitla 
(the  former  being  buried  in  a  dense  forest),  was  known  to 
the  outside  world  until  a  comparatively  recent  period — i.  e., 
about  1750 ;  but  the  remains  in  Yucatan  were  familiar  to 
Europeans  long  before. 

These  ruins  were  built  of  hewn  stone,  and  all  writers 
have  referred  to  the  skill  in  architecture  and  workman- 
ship exhibited  in  them.  The  ordinary  dwelling-houses 
must  have  been  made  chiefly  of  wood,  or  of  some  other  ma- 
terial that  perished  long  ago,  for  at  the  present  time  no 
traces  of  them  are  visible. 

Great  cities  and  temples  are  to-day  concealed  by  thick 
forests,  and  the  traveler  can  not  form  a  correct  idea  of 
their  original  size.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that,  with  the 
present  limited  facilities  for  traveling,  many  of  the  ruins 
of  Southern  Mexico  are  difficult  of  access.  The  princi- 
pal remains  lie  remote  from  the  sea-coast  and  also  from  the 
lines  of  railroad. 

Let  us  begin  with  the  ruined  edifices  of  Yucatan,  and 
describe  the  places  in  their  geograjDhical  and  supposed  his- 
torical order. 


RUINS.  35 

Baldwin,  in  Ancient  America,  p.  101,  says  :  "Near  tlie 
ruins,  ...  in  Yucatan,  are  frequently  found  the  remains 
of  many  finely-constructed  aguadas,  or  artificial  lakes. 
The  bottoms  of  these  lakes  were  made  of  flat  stones  laid 
in  cement,  several  layers  deep.  In  Yucatan  traces  of  a 
very  ancient  paved  road  have  been  found.  This  road  ran 
north  and  south,  and  probably  led  to  cities  in  the  region 
now  covered  by  the  great  wilderness.  It  was  raised  above 
the  graded  level  of  the  ground,  and  made  very  smooth." 

The  same  author,  on  pp.  125,  126,  states  :  "  The  re- 
mains of  ancient  cities  are  abundant  in  the  settled  portion 
of  Yucatan  which  lies  north  of  the  great  forest.  Charnay 
found  '  the  country  covered  with  them  from  north  to  south.' 
Stephens  states,  in  the  preface  to  his  work  on  Yucatan, 
that  he  visited  'forty-four  ruined  cities  or  places,'  in  which 
such  remains  are  still  found,  most  of  which  were  unknown 
to  white  men,  even  to  those  inhabiting  the  country.  .  .  , 

' '  Previous  to  the  Spanish  Conquest,  the  region  known 
to  us  as  Yucatan  was  called  Maya.  It  is  still  called  Maya 
by  the  natives  among  themselves.*  .  .  . 

"At  that  time  the  country  was  occui^ied  by  the  people 
still  known  as  Mayas.  .  .  .  Yucatan  was  tlien  more  popu- 
lous than  at  present.  The  people  had  more  civilization, 
more  regular  industry,  and  more  wealth.  They  were  much 
more  highly  skilled  in  the  arts  of  civilized  life.  They  had 
cities  and  large  towns.  .  .  .  This  peninsula  had  been  the 
seat  of  an  important  feudal  monarchy,  which  arose  prob- 
ably after  the  Toltecs  overthrew  the  very  ancient  kingdom 
of  Xibalba.  It  was  broken  up  by  a  rebellion  of  the  feudal 
lords  about  a  hundred  years  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the 
Spaniards.  According  to  the  Maya  chronicles,  its  down- 
fall occurred  in  the  year  1420.  Mayapan,  the  capital  of 
this  kingdom,  was  destroyed  at  that  time,  and  never  after- 
ward inhabited." 

*  The  Maya  language  is  spoken  in  Yucatan  at  the  present  day. — A.  R.  C. 


36  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

The  most  important  ruins  are  found  at  Mayapan,  Ux- 
mal,  and  Chichen-Itza,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  penin- 
sula.    We  will  describe  them  in  the  following  order  ; 

MAYAPAN^. 

The  remains  of  this  ancient  cajjital  lie  about  thirty 
miles  south  of  Merida.  They  are  scattered  over  a  broad 
plain.  The  principal  edifices  are  the  great  mound  and  a 
circular  stone  structure.  The  former  is  sixty  feet  in  height, 
and  has  a  base  that  is  one  hundred  feet  square.  Four  stair- 
ways, twenty-five  feet  in  width,  lead  to  the  summit,  which 
consists  of  a  simple  stone  platform  fifteen  feet  square.  The 
latter  building  is  twenty-five  feet  in  diameter,  and  stands 
on  a  sloping  foundation  thirty-five  feet  in  height.  Two 
rows  of  columns,  without  capitals,  and  lying  eight  feet 
apart,  are  seen  on  the  southwestern  side  of  it.  Brasseur 
de  Bourbourg  ranks  several  of  the  foundations  of  the  Maya- 
pan  edifices  with  the  oldest  seen  at  Palenque. 

About  forty  miles  south  of  Mayapan  are  found  the  far- 
famed  ruins  of 

UXMAL. 

Stephens  says  that  the  Uxmal  remains  are  worthy  to 
stand  side  by  side  with  those  of  Egyptian  and  Eoman  art.* 
Baldwin,  in  Ancient  America,  pp.  131-136,  describes  Ux- 
mal as  follows  :  "  The  ruins  in  Uxmal  have  been  regarded 
as  the  most  important  in  Yucatan,  partly  on  account  of 
the  edifices  which  remain  standing,  but  chiefly  because 
they  have  been  visited  and  explored  more  than  the  others. 
.  .  .  The  area  covered  by  its  remains  is  extensive.  Char- 
nay  makes  it  a  league  or  more  in  diameter,  but  most  of 
the  structures  have  fallen,  and  exist  only  in  fragments 
scattered  over  the  ground.  .  .  . 

*  Incidents  of  Travel  in  Central  America,  Chiapas,  and  Yucatan,  vol. 
ii,  p.  430. 


Eums.  37 

"  The  most  important  of  those  remaining  was  named 
'  Casa  del  Gobernador '  by  the  Spaniards.  It  is  320  feet 
long,  and  was  built  of  hewn  stone  laid  in  mortar  or  cement. 
The  faces  of  the  wall  are  smooth  up  to  the  cornice.  Then 
follows,  on  all  four  sides,  'one  solid  mass  of  rich,  compli- 
cated, and  elaborately  sculptured  ornaments,  forming  a  sort 
of  arabesque.'  .  .  .  This  building  has  eleven  doorways  in 
front,  and  one  at  each  end,  all  having  wooden  lintels  which 
have  fallen.  The  two  principal  rooms  are  60  feet  long,  and 
from  11  to  13  feet  wide.  This  structure  is  long  and  narrow. 
...  It  stands  on  the  summit  of  one  of  the  grandest  of  the 
terraced  foundations.  This  foundation,  like  the  others,  is 
pyramidal.  It  has  three  terraces.  The  lowest  is  3  feet 
high,  15  wide,  and  575  long ;  the  second  is  20  feet  high, 
275  wide,  and  545  long ;  the  third,  19  feet  high,  30  wide, 
and  3G0  long.  Structures  formerly  existed  on  the  second 
terrace,  remains  of  which  are  visible.  .  .  . 

"Another  imj)ortant  edifice  at  TJxmal  has  been  named 
*  Casa  de  las  Monjas  ' — House  of  the  Nuns.  It  stands  on  a 
terraced  foundation,  and  is  arranged  around  a  quadrangu- 
lar courtyard  258  feet  one  way  and  214  the  other.  The 
front  structure  is  279  feet  long,  and  has  a  gateway  in  the 
center,  10  feet  8  inches  wide,  leading  into  the  court,  and  four 
doors  on  each  side  of  it.  The  outer  face  of  the  wall,  above 
the  cornice,  is  ornamented  with  sculptures.  .  .  .  All  the 
doorways,  save  those  in  front,  open  on  the  court.*  .  .  . 

''Other  less  important  edifices  in  the  ruins  at  Uxmal 
have  been  described  by  explorers,  some  of  which  stand 
on  high  pyi-amidal  mounds  ;  and  inscriptions  are  found 
here,  but  they  are  not  so  abundant  as  at  Palenque  and 
Copan." 

The  remains  at  Chichen-Itza  are  similar  to  those  at 
TJxmal.     They  are  situated  a  few  leagues  east  of  Mayapan, 

*  Stephens  has  remarked  that  there  arc  no  idols,  nor  stuccoed  figures, 
nor  carved  tablets  at  Uxmal. 


432326 


38  GENERAL  INFORMATIOW. 

in  northern  Yucatan.  Tlie  principal  buildings  are  the 
"church,"  the  palace  of  the  monks,  the  red  house  or  casa 
colorada,  and  the  "  gymnasium,"  or  tennis-court.  In  one 
of  the  edifices  are  found  rooms  whose  walls  are  covered 
with  picture-writing.  Some  of  them  are  ornamented  with 
figures  of  serpents. 

There  are  other  ruins  of  importance  at  Izamal,  Labna, 
Zayi,  and  Xcoch,  in  the  northern  and  central  portions  of 
Yucatan,  but  they  are  of  the  same  general  character  as 
those  above  mentioned. 

One  remarkable  ruin  is  found  at  Ake,  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  State.  It  was  once  a  massive  structure,  but  at 
the  present  day  only  thirty-six  columns  in  three  parallel 
rows  remain.  Tliey  are  about  fifteen  feet  liigh  and  four  feet 
square.  Ruins  may  also  be  seen  on  tlie  island  of  Cozumcl. 
( Vide  Section  I  in  Part  second  for  description  of  routes.) 

PALENQUE. 

Baldwin,  in  Ancient  America,  pp.  104-106,  thus  de- 
scribes the  ruins  at  this  place  :  "  No  one  can  tell  the  true 
name  of  the  ancient  city  now  called  Palenque.  It  is  known 
to  us  by  this  name  because  the  ruins  are  situated  a  few 
miles  distant  from  the  town  of  Palenque,  now  a  village, 
but  formerly  a  place  of  some  importance.  .  .  .  More  than 
two  liundred  years  passed  after  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards 
before  their  existence  became  known  to  Europeans.  They 
were  discovered  about  the  year  1750. 

"  Since  that  year  decay  has  made  some  progress  in  them. 
Captain  del  Rio,  who  visited  and  described  them  m  1787, 
examined  '  fourteen  edifices  '  admirably  built  of  hewn  stone, 
and  estimated  the  extent  of  the  ruins  to  be  '  seven  or  eight 
leagues  one  way  (along  the  River  Chacamas),  and  half  a 
league  the  other.'  He  mentions  'a  subterranean  aqueduct 
of  great  solidity  and  durability,  which  passes  under  the 
largest  buildinsr.'  .  .  . 


RUINS.  30 

"  The  largest  known  building  at  Palenque  is  called  the 
'  Palace.'  It  stands  near  the  river,  on  a  terraced  pyramidal 
foundation,  40  feet  high  and  310  feet  long,  by  2G0  feet 
broad  at  the  base.  The  edifice  itself  is  238  feet  long,  180 
wide,  and  25  feet  liigli.  It  faces  the  east,  and  has  14  door- 
ways on  each  side,  with  11  at  the  ends.  It  was  built  en- 
tirely of  hewn  stone,  laid  with  admirable  precision  in 
mortar,  which  seems  to  have  been  of  the  best  quality.  A 
corridor  9  feet  wide,  and  roofed  by  a  pointed  arch,  went 
round  the  building  on  the  outside  ;  and  this  was  separated 
from  another  within  of  equal  width. 

"  The  '  Palace  '  has  four  interior  courts,  the  largest  be- 
ing 70  by  80  feet  in  extent.  These  are  surrounded  by  cor- 
ridors, and  the  architectural  work  facing  them  is  richly 
decorated.  Within  the  building  were  many  rooms.  From 
the  north  side  of  one  of  the  smaller  courts  rises  a  high 
tower,  or  pagoda-like  structure,  30  feet  square  at  the  base, 
which  goes  ujd  far  above  the  highest  elevation  of  the  build- 
ing, and  seems  to  have  been  still  higher  when  the  whole 
structure  was  in  perfect  condition.  The  great  rectangular 
mound  used  for  the  foundation  was  cased  with  hewn  stone, 
the  Avorkmanship  here,  and  everywhere  else  throughout 
the  structure,  being  very  superior.  The  piers  around  the 
courts  are  '  covered  with  figures  in  stucco,  or  plaster,  which, 
where  broken,  reveals  six  or  more  coats  or  layers,  each  re- 
vealing traces  of  painting.'  This  indicates  that  the  build- 
ing had  been  used  so  long  before  it  was  deserted  that 
the  plastering  needed  to  be  many  times  renewed.  There  is 
some  evidence  that  painting  was  used  as  a  means  of  decora- 
tion ;  but  that  which  most  engages  attention  is  the  artistic 
management  of  the  stone-work,  and,  above  all,  the  beauti- 
fully executed  sculptures  for  ornamentation. 

"■  Two  other  buildings  at  Palenque,  marked  by  Mr. 
Stephens,  in  his  plan  of  the  ruins,  as  '  Casa  No.  1 '  and 
*Casa  No.  2,'  .  .  .  .  are  smaller,  but  in  some  respects  still 


40  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

more  remarkable.  The  first  of  these,  75  feet  long  by  25 
wide,  stands  on  the  summit  of  a  high  truncated  pyramid, 
and  has  solid  walls  on  all  sides  save  the  north,  where  there 
are  five  doorways.  Within  are  a  corridor  and  three  rooms. 
Between  the  doorways  leading  from  the  corridor  to  these 
rooms  are  great  tablets,  each  13  feet  long  and  8  feet  high, 
and  all  covered  with  elegantly-carved  inscriptions.  A  simi- 
lar but  smaller  tablet,  covered  with  an  inscription,  appears 
on  the  wall  of  the  central  room. 

*' '  Casa  No.  2  '  consists  of  a  steep  and  lofty  truncated 
pyramid,  which  stands  on  a  terraced  foundation,  and  has 
its  level  summit  crowned  with  a  building  50  feet  long  by 
31  wide,  which  has  three  doorways  at  the  south,  and  within 
a  corridor  and  three  rooms.  This  edifice,  sometimes  called 
'La  Cruz,'  has,  above  the  height  required  for  the  rooms, 
what  is  described  as  'two  stories  of  interlaced  stucco-work, 
resembling  a  high,  fanciful  lattice.'  Here,  too,  inscribed 
tablets  appear  on  the  walls ;  but  the  inscriptions,  which 
are  abundant  at  Palenque,  are  by  no  means  confined  to  tab- 
lets. As  to  the  ornamentation,  the  walls,  piers,  and  cor- 
nices are  covered  by  it.  Everywhere  the  masterly  work- 
manship and  artistic  skill  of  the  old  constructors  compel 
admiration  ;  Mr.  Stephens  going  so  far  as  to  say  of  sculp- 
tured human  figures  found  in  fragments  :  '  In  justness  of 
proportion  and  symmetry  they  must  have  approached  the 
Greek  models.'" 

It  is  probable  that  more  buildings  will  be  found  at  Pa- 
lenque when  the  ruins  have  been  fully  explored.  Mr.  Ste- 
phens, referring  to  the  dense  vegetation,  says  :  "  Without  a 
guide,  we  might  have  gone  within  a  hundred  feet  of  the 
buildings  without  discovering  one  of  them."  On  account 
of  the  great  abundance  of  inscriptions  at  Palenque,  which 
have  not  thus  far  been  deciphered,  these  ruins  are  consid- 
ered to  be  very  important  by  archgeologists.  (For  routes  to 
Palenque,  see  pp.  150-156.) 


RUINS.  41 


MITLA. 


Baldwin,  in  Ancient  America,  pp.  117-122,  describes 
these  ruins  as  follows  : 

"  The  ruins  called  Mitla  are  in  the  Mexican  State  of 
Oaxaca,  about  twelve  leagues  east  from  the  city  of  Oaxaca. 
They  are  situated  in  the  upper  part  of  a  great  valley,  and 
surrounded  by  a  waste,  uncultivated  region.  At  the  time 
of  the  Spanish  Conquest  they  were  old  and  much  worn  by 
time  and  the  elements,  but  a  very  large  area  was  then  cov- 
ered by  remains  of  ancient  buildings.  At  present  only  six 
decaying  edifices  and  three  ruined  pyramids,  which  were 
very  finely  terraced,  remain  for  examination,  the  other  struct- 
ures being  now  reduced  to  the  last  stage  of  decay.  .  .  . 

''Four  of  the  standing  edifices  are  described  by  Dupaix 
as  'palaces,'  and  these,  he  says,  'were  erected  with  lavish 
magnificence  ;  .  .  .  they  combine  the  solidity  of  the  works 
of  Egypt  with  the  elegance  of  those  of  Greece.'  And  he 
adds  :  '  But  what  is  most  remarkable,  interesting,  and 
striking  in  these  monuments,  and  which  alone  would  be 
sutficient  to  give  them  the  first  rank  among  all  known 
orders  of  architecture,  is  the  execution  of  their  mosaic  re- 
lievos— very  different  from  plain  mosaic,  and  consequently 
requiring  more  ingenious  combination,  and  greater  art  and 
labor.  They  are  inlaid  on  the  surface  of  the  wall,  and 
their  duration  is  owing  to  the  method  of  fixing  the  pre- 
pared stones  into  the  stone  surface,  which  made  their  union 
with  it  perfect. '  .  .  . 

"  The  general  character  of  the  architecture  and  ma- 
sonry is  much  like  that  seen  in  the  structures  at  Palenque, 
but  the  finish  of  the  workmanship  appears  to  have  been 
more  artistic  and  admirable.  These  ruins  are  remarkable 
among  those  of  the  country  where  they  are  found.  All 
who  have  seen  them  speak  much  as  Dupaix  speaks  of  the 
perfection  of  the  masonry,  the  admirable  design  and  finish 


42  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

of  the  work,  and  the  beauty  of  the  decorations.  Their 
beauty,  says  M.  Charnay,  can  be  matched  only  by  the 
monuments  of  Greece  and  Rome  in  their  best  days.  One 
fact  presented  by  some  of  the  edifices  at  Mitla  has  a  cer- 
tain degree  of  historical  significance.  There  apjiears  to  be 
evidence  that  tliey  were  occupied  at  some  period  by  peojjle 
less  advanced  in  civilization  than  their  builders.  .  .  . 

"  Two  miles  or  more  away  from  the  great  edifices  here 
mentioned,  toward  the  west,  is  the  '  Castle  of  Mitla.'  It 
was  built  on  the  summit  of  an  isolated  and  precipitous  hill 
of  rock,  which  is  accessible  only  on  the  east  side.  The 
whole  leveled  summit  of  this  hill  is  inclosed  by  a  solid  wall 
of  hewn  stone,  21  feet  thick  and  18  feet  high.  This  wall 
has  salient  and  retiring  angles,  with  curtains  interposed. 
On  the  east  side  it  is  flanked  by  double  walls.  Within  the 
inclosure  are  the  remains  of  several  small  buildings.  The 
field  of  these  ruins  was  very  large  three  hundred  years  ago. 
At  that  time  it  may  have  included  this  castle." 

Humboldt,  in  his  Political  Essay  on  JSfeio  Spain,  vol. 
ii,  pp.  239,  240,  has  described  these  remains  as  follows  : 

"The  village  of  Mitla  was  formerly  called  Miguitlan,  a 
word  that  means,  in  the  Mexican  language,  a  place  of  sad- 
ness. The  Tzapotec  Indians  call  it  Leoha,  which  signifies 
tomb.  .  .  .  The  palace,  or  rather  the  tombs  of  Mitla,  form 
three  edifices  symmetrically  placed  in  an  extremely  roman- 
tic situation.  The  principal  edifice  is  in  the  best  preserva- 
tion, and  is  nearly  130  feet  in  length.  A  stair  formed  in  a 
pit  leads  to  a  subterraneous  apartment  of  88  feet  in  length 
and  26  feet  in  breadth.  This  gloomy  apartment  is  covered 
with  the  same  grecques  which  ornament  the  exterior  walls 
of  the  edifice.  But  what  distinguishes  the  ruins  of  Mitla 
from  all  the  other  remains  of  Mexican  architecture  is  six 
porphyry  columns,  which  are  j^laced  in  the  midst  of  a  vast 
hall,  and  support  the  ceiling.  These  columns,  almost  the 
only  ones  found  in  the  ncAv  continent,  bear  strong  marks 


RUINS.  43 

of  the  infancy  of  the  art.  They  have  neither  base  nor  cap- 
itals. .  .  .  Their  total  height  is  16^  feet,  but  their  shaft 
is  of  one  piece  of  amphibole  porjihyry.  Broken-down  frag- 
ments, for  ages  heaped  together,  conceal  more  than  one 
third  of  the  height  of  these  columns.  .  .  .  The  distribu- 
tion of  the  apartments  in  the  interior  of  this  singular  edi- 
fice bears  a  striking  analogy  to  what  has  been  remarked  in 
the  monuments  of  Upper  Egyjit  drawn  by  M.  Denon  and 
the  savans,  who  compose  the  institute  of  Cairo.  M.  de  La- 
guna  found  in  the  ruins  of  Mitla  curious  jiaintings  repre- 
senting warlike  trophies  and  sacrifices. "... 

Jeffreys  states  that  the  buildings  at  Mitla  were  j)robably 
erected  by  either  the  Mixtec  or  Tzapotec  Indians. — {Vide 
p.  1G9.) 

THE   PYRAMIDS. 

The  teocallis  may  now  be  mentioned.  They  are  to  be 
found  principally  at  Cholula,  San  Juan  Teotihuacan,  and 
Papantla.     They  may  be  described  in  the  following  order  : 

Cliolula. 
This  town  lies  seven  miles  west  of  the  city  of  Puebla. 
Its  pyramid  is  by  far  the  largest,  oldest,  and  most  impor- 
tant in  Mexico.  The  original  dimensions  were  as  follows  : 
Height,  177  feet ;  horizontal  width  of  the  base,  1,423  feet  ; 
and  area,  45  acres.  It  is  built  of  alternate  strata  of  brick  and 
clay,  and  the  sides  correspond  to  the  direction  of  the  me- 
ridians and  parallels.  At  present  three  terraces  can  be  dis- 
tinctly seen,  and  the  outlines  of  two  others  may  be  traced.  A 
winding  road,  which  is  paved  with  stone,  leads  up  to  the  sum- 
mit. The  latter  is  about  200  feet  square.  It  affords  a  fine 
view  of  the  valley  of  Puebla.  A  chapel  has  been  erected 
by  the  Mexicans  on  the  platform  of  this  great  mound.  It  is 
built  of  brick  and  stone,  with  a  dome  and  two  towers  ;  and 
the  interior  contains  ornamental  frescoes  and  decorations. 
It  is  called  San  Tuariol  de  los  Remedios.     Some  vesretation 


u 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


is  seen  on  the  pyramid.  It  consists  of  the  cactus,  pito,  and 
a  few  jiiTii  trees.  Several  writers  have  suggested  that  the 
founders  of  the  mound  at  Cholula  may  have  had  some  de- 
sign in  building  it  near  the  lofty  volcano  of  Popocatepetl, 


Aztec  Temple. 

or  "the  smoking  mountain."      This  primitive  race  may 
have  been  fire  as  well  as  serpent  worshipers. 

Unfortunately  the  great  temple  of  Cholula  has  been 
partially  destroyed.  A  few  years  ago  a  cut  was  made  in 
the  western  side  of  it  for  a  railroad  track  ! — ( Vide  p.  173.) 


San  Juan  Teotiliuacan. 

The  teocallis  at  this  town  rank  next  to  Cholula  in  jDoint 
of  as-e.     The  word  "  Teotihuacan  "  means  the  habitation 


Eums.  45 

of  the  gods.  It  is  now  a  small  village,  though  it  was  once 
a  flourishing  city,  and  the  rival  of  Tula,  the  great  Toltec 
capital.  The  two  principal  pyramids  were  dedicated  to  To- 
natiuh,  the  Sun,  and  to  Meztli,  the  Moon.*  The  former  is 
the  larger,  its  height  being  180  feet,  and  the  length  of  the 
hase  G82  feet.  Its  platform  is  to-day  about  75  feet  square, 
and  the  middle  point  is  marked  by  a  modern  cylindrical 
monument  of  stone,  about  5  feet  high  and  6  feet  iu  diameter. 
The  summit  of  this  pyramid  is  said  to  have  been  crowned 
with  a  temple,  in  which  was  a  gigantic  statue  of  its  presid- 
ing deity,  the  Sun,  made  of  one  entire  block  of  stone,  and 
having  a  breastplate  of  gold  and  silver.  Three  terraces  are 
now  visible  on  this  larger  mound.  It  is  constructed  of 
blocks  of  basalt  and  trachyte  rock. 

About  half  a  mile  to  the  northward  of  the  pyramid  of 
the  Sun  is  that  dedicated  to  the  Moon.  The  observer  may 
distinguish  two  terraces  on  the  latter.  The  summit  is  about 
20  by  40  feet.  Traces  of  an  ancient  tomb  were  formerly 
visible  on  it.  A  cross,  standing  on  a  pedestal  about  12  feet 
high,  has  been  erected  recently  f  at  the  center  of  the  plat- 
form. It  is  reached  by  a  winding  pathway  on  the  south 
side.  The  building  materials  of  this  mound  resemble  those 
of  the  larger  one.  M.  Charnay,  a  recent  explorer,  is  said 
to  have  found  an  idol  buried  in  the  interior.  The  same 
traveler  made  a  cut  into  this  pyramid  to  settle  the  question 
whether  the  teocallis  were  hollow.  J  He  dug  a  gallery  half 
way  through,  and  found  the  interior  to  be  solid.  We  sub- 
mit, however,  that  this  experiment  has  not  solved  the  prob- 
lem in  general. 

A  great  number  of  smaller  pyramids  are  seen  around  the 
two  principal  ones.  Few  exceed  twenty-five  feet  in  height. 
According  to  tradition,  they  were  dedicated  to  the  stars, 
and  served  as  sepulchres  for  the  illustrious  men  of  the 

*  Vide  Prcscoif,  vol.  ii,  p.  388.  f  On  February  11,  1881. 

X  According  to  tradition  these  pyramids  were  hollow. 


46  GENERAL  INFORMATIOK 

nation.  The  plain  on  which  they  are  built  was  called 
Micoatl,  or  "Path  of  the  Dead."  Arrow-heads  and  frag- 
ments of  blades  of  itztli  or  obsidian  are  still  abundant 
at  these  mounds.  They  attest  the  warlike  character  of 
the  aborigines.     (FiVZe  p.  174.) 

Papantla. 

This  village  lies  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  about  fifty 
miles  north  of  Jalapa.  ( Vide]).  155.)  The  pyramid  is  situ- 
ated in  a  dense  forest  about  two  leagues  from  Papantla. 
It  was  unknown  to  the  first  conquerors,  as  the  Indians 
for  centuries  concealed  this  monument  from  them.  It 
possesses  great  antiquity,  and  was  only  discovered  acci- 
dentally by  some  hunters  in  1780.  This  pyramid  was 
not  built  of  bricks  or  clay  mixed  with  whinstones,  like 
those  already  described,  but  was  made  of  immense  stones 
of  porphyry,  in  the  seams  of  which  mortar  is  distin- 
guishable. Many  of  these  stones  are  covered  with  hiero- 
glyphics. Among  other  figures  are  carvings  of  serpents 
and  crocodiles.  This  edifice  is  remarkable,  not  so  much 
for  its  size,  as  for  its  symmetry,  the  polish  of  the  stones, 
and  the  great  regularity  of  their  cut.  The  base  of  the 
pyramid  is  an  exact  square,  each  side  being  83  feet  long. 
The  perpendicular  height  is  about  60  feet.  Like  all  Mexi- 
can teocallis,  this  mound  is  composed  of  several  stages.  A 
huge  stairway  of  fifty-seven  steps  leads  to  the  platform  or 
top  of  the  pyramid,  where  the  human  victims  were  sacri- 
ficed.    (The  manner  of  sacrifice  is  described  on  p.  186.) 

Humboldt,  in  his  great  work  on  New  Spain,  refers  to 
the  analogy  of  the  brick  monuments  of  Anahuac  to  the 
temple  of  Belus  at  Babylon,  and  to  the  pyramids  near  Sak- 
hara  in  Egypt.  On  page  195  of  vol.  ii  he  says  :  ''  There 
are  in  Mexico  pyramids  of  several  stages,  in  the  forests  of 
Papantla,  at  a  small  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  in  the  plains  of  Cholula  and  Teotihuacan,  at  elevations 


Hums. 


4Y 


surpassing  those  of  our  passes  in  the  Alps.  We  are  aston- 
ished to  see  in  regions  most  remote  from  one  another,  and 
under  climates  of  the  greatest  diversity,  man  following  the 
same  model  in  his  edifices,  in  his  ornaments,  in  his  habits, 
and  even  in  the  form  of  his  political  institutions." 

The  same  author  gives  the  following  comparative  table 
of  the  great  pyramids  of  the  world.  It  will  be  seen  that 
in  the  mound  of  Cholula  the  length  of  the  base  to  the  per- 
pendicular height  is  as  8  to  1,  while  in  that  of  Ghizeh  this 
proportion  is  nearly  8  to  5  : 


Stone 

Pyramids. 

French  feet.* 

Cheops. 

Cephren. 

Mycerinus. 

Height 

Length  of  base 

. .!         448 
728 

398 
655 

162 

280 

Brick  Pyramids. 


French  feet. 


Height 

Length  of  base. 


Of  five  stages 

inEg-ypt,i)ear 

Sakhara. 


150 
210 


Of  four  stages  in  Mexico. 


Teotihuacan. 


IVl 
645 


Cholala. 


172 
1,355 


There  are  also  teocallis  at  Misantla,  Tusapan,  Mapilca, 
and  Caxones  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz. 

These  pyramids  are  scattered  over  Central  and  Eastern 
Mexico.  Several  writers  on  archaeology  believe  that  they 
were  built  by  the  Toltecs,  who  are  supposed  to  have  been 
the  authors  of  the  mounds  in  Ohio. 


KORTHERlSr   MEXICO. 

Ancient  remains  are  rare  north,  as  well  as  west,  of  the 
valley  of  Mexico.     Toltec  ruins  are  found  at  Tula,  which 
*  A  French  foot  equals  1  -066  English  feet. 


48 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


lies  about  fifty  miles  north  of  the  capital.  The  ruins  on 
the  northern  part  of  the  table-land  consist  of  communal 
dwellings,  similar  to  those  of  the  Pueblo  Indians  of  New 
Mexico.  They  were  built  of  several  stories,  one  being 
ranged  above  the  other.  There  were  no  doors  on  the  first 
floor,  and  the  upper  stories  were  reached  by  means  of  lad- 
ders. The  roofs  were  commonly  flat.  These  edifices  were 
sometimes  built  of  stone,  but  wood  and  adobe,  or  sun-dried 
brick,  have  been  more  frequently  used. 


I'oltee  Falace. 


This  class  of  ruins  is  common  in  the  State  of  Chihuahua, 
and  also  in  the  Territories  of  Arizona  and  New  Mexico. 
The  reports  of  the  Pacific  Railroad  surveys  describe  many 
of  these  ancient  towns.  Some  of  them  are  still  inhabited, 
as  Taos,  Zuni,  and  Moqui.  If  the  traveler  approaches 
Mexico  by  either  of  the  railroads  in  Colorado  or  Arizona, 
he  will  pass  within  a  few  miles  of  some  of  the  ''Pueblo" 
dwellings.  The  Indians  of  the  New  Mexican  inieblos  re- 
semble  those   of  Mexico   in   stature,   physiognomy,   and 


HOTELS  AND  EESTAUEAN'TS.  49 

habits.  Apparently  they  are  the  same  race  of  people,  and 
it  is  not  improbable,  that  their  ancestors  bnilt  some  of  the 
magnificent  edifices  that  remain  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  country.  

Tourists,  who  are  not  specially  interested  in  Mexican 
archaeology,  are  recommended  to  confine  themselves  to 
visiting  the  ruins  of  Mitla,  Cholula,  and  San  Juan  Teoti- 
huacan.  The  former  will  soon  be  within  twenty  miles  of 
a  line  of  railway,  and  the  other  places  are  within  an  hour's 
walk  of  it. 

For  additional  information  on  the  ancient  remains  of  Mexico, 
consult  the  following  books : 

Humboldt,  Political  Essay  on  New  Spain. 

Kingsborough,  Mexican  Antiquities. 

Dupaix,  Antiquites  mexicaines. 

Prescott,  Conquest  of  Mexico. 

Baldwin,  Ancient  America. 

Stephens,  Incidents  of  Travel  in  Central  America^  Chiapas,  and 
Yucatan. 

Also  the  works  of  Catherwood,  "Waldeck,  Del  Rio,  Brasseur  do 
Bourbourg,  and  Charnay. 


VL 
Hotels  and  Hestaurants. 

Most  of  the  hotels  in  Mexico  are  kept  on  the  European 
plan  ;  but  those  of  Monterey  and  other  towns  near  the 
northern  frontier  are  conducted  according  to  the  American 
system.  Two-storied  buildings  are  generally  used  for  hotel 
purposes ;  and  in  recent  years  a  few  convents  have  been 
altered  for  this  kind  of  business.  The  inns  are  often 
called  after  ex-presidents  or  generals  in  the  army.  Many 
of  them  bear  the  name  of  the  illustrious  patriot  Hidalgo. 

In  the  large  cities  men  are  commonly  employed  to  take 


50  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

care  of  bed-rooms,  while  in  the  smaller  towns  one  meets 
with  chambermaids. 

Hotels  are  not  so  abundant  in  Mexico  as  in  the  United 
States,  and  the  accommodations  of  the  former  are  much 
inferior  to  those  of  the  latter.  The  natives  are  not  much 
given  to  traveling,  owing  to  the  difficulty  and  exj)ense  of 
making  long  journeys.  When  visiting  a  strange  town  they 
usually  stay  at  the  house  of  a  friend.  There  are  cities  of 
15,000  inhabitants,  remote  from  the  regular  lines  of  travel, 
where  no  inn  is  to  be  found.  The  General  Diligence  Com- 
pany controls  a  great  many  taverns  throughout  the  central 
portions  of  the  country.  Mexican  hotels  are  of  two  classes — 
those  for  tourists,  and  those  for  both  persons  and  live-stock, 
such  as  horses  or  horned  cattle.  The  latter  are  called  me- 
sones  ajid  posadas. 

Bath-rooms  are  rarely  found  in  hotels.  There  are,  how- 
ever, excellent  bath-houses  in  the  principal  cities,  which 
are  often  within  two  or  three  minutes'  walk  of  the  princi- 
pal hotels.* 

English  is  rarely  spoken  at  the  inns,  but  French  is  gen- 
erally known  at  the  larger  hotels  and  restaurants.  Many 
of  the  proprietors  are  Spaniards  or  Frenchmen  ;  and  there 
is  a  great  opening  for  Americans  in  this  branch  of  business. 

The  modern  conveniences,  such  as  hot-air  furnaces, 
water-pipes  and  set  bowls,  electric  bells,  and  gas,  are  al- 
most unknown.  It  is  said  that  there  is  not  a  single  fire- 
place in  any  building  in  Mexico,  f  The  natives  believe  that 
the  artificial  heating  of  rooms  m  the  rarefied  air  of  the 
table-land  is  prejudicial  to  health.  Public  parlors  are  very 
rarely  found  in  the  hotels. 

The  charge  at  first-class  houses  throughout  the  country 
is  from  $2  to  $2. 50  per  day.     In  the  capital  the  rates  are  a 

*  The  finest  bathing  establishments  in  Mexico  are  in  San  Luis  Potosi, 
Orizaba,  and  Puebla.     Those  of  the  national  capital  are  not  first  class. 
f  The  author  did  not  see  nor  hear  of  any. 


HOTELS  AND  RESTAURANTS.  51 

little  higher.  The  best  hotels  and  restaurants,  generally 
named  in  the  order  of  their  merit,  are  given  in  Part 
Second.  In  Mexico  City  a  good  table  dlwte  dinner  can 
be  had  in  the  restaurants  for  II.  Elsewhere  the  usual  price 
for  dinner  is  four  reales,  or  fifty  cents  ;  and  in  the  villages 
the  cost  is  as  low  as  two  reales  for  a  meal.  It  is  the  custom 
to  give  waiters  and  servants  a  fee.  A  half  real  {medio)  is 
sufficient.  A  cup  of  coffee  or  chocolate,  with  bread,  is  com- 
monly served  for  one  real.  A  glass  of  spirits,  wine,  or  beer, 
costs  the  same  sum. 

The  Mexicans  use  the  word  "fo7ida^^  as  synonymous 
with  restaurant,  and  "^fondita''  is  similar  to  a  cafe,  the 
latter  term  being  frequently  employed.  In  the  *'  provincial " 
fondas,  it  is  customary  to  salute  persons  at  the  table,  when 
entering  or  leaving  the  room,  whether  acquainted  or  not. 

In  the  rural  districts  and  in  the  mining  towns,  goat's 
milk  is  often  used  at  the  taverns. 

Fresh  vegetables,  excepting  potatoes,  are  rarely  served 
at  the  restaurants.  Oranges  and  bananas  are  generally  the 
only  kinds  of  fruit  to  be  met  with,  although  the  country 
affords  many  varieties.  Tea  is  not  usually  taken  ;  and  pies, 
tarts,  cakes,  and  puddings,  are  almost  unknown  at  the  ho- 
tels and  cafes.  Dessert  consists,  as  a  rule,  of  dulce,  which 
means  something  sweet,  such  as  jams,  preserved  fruit,  etc. 

The  natives  usually  eat  tortillas,  or  corn-cakes,  and 
frijoles,  or  brown  beans.  The  former  are  found  only  in 
the  country  and  small  towns,  but  the  latter  are  served  at  all 
hotels  and  restaurants. 

A  great  deal  of  pepper  and  grease  is  used  in  Mexican 
cookery.  Even  boiled  rice  is  saturated  with  melted  lard. 
Beef  and  mutton,  as  well  as  poultry,  are  generally  to  be 
had  at  breakfast  and  dinner  in  the  fondas  throughout  the 
Republic.  The  sugar  used  comes  in  loaves  directly  from 
the  mills,  and  is  broken  up  by  hand  into  small  pieces.  A 
small  quantity  of  refined  granulated  sugar  is  imported. 


52  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

The  following  list  *  of  tlie  most  common  dishes  may  be 
of  service  to  the  traveler  : 

Caldo,  broth  ;  sopa,  soup. 
Bacalao,  codfish  ;  iagre,  a  kind  of  fish. 
Came,  beef  ;  carnero,  mutton. 
Ternera,  veal. 
Juajalote,  turkey. 
Polio,  chicken. 

Arroz  cocida,  plain  boiled  rice. 
Blanquillos,  or  huevos,  eggs. 
Huevos  tihios,  soft-boiled  eggs. 
Huevos  pasados  en  agua,  hard-boiled  eggs. 
Huevos  fritos  en  agua,  poached  eggs. 
Huevos  fritos,  fried  eggs. 
Tortilla  de  huevos,  omelette. 

Chile  relleno  is  a  fried  green-pepper,  stuffed  with 
mince-meat  and  coated  with  eggs. 
Many  kinds  of  bread  are  made  in  Mexico,  the  principal 
of  which  are  : 

Pa}i  de  agua,  "water"  bread. 

Pan  de  az'dcar,  "sugar"  bread. 

Pan  de  dulce,  "sweet"  bread. 

Pan  de  huevos,  "  Qgg  "  bread. 

Pa7i  de  leche,  "milk  "  bread. 

Pa7i  de  manteca,  "lard"  bread. 


VII. 

Passport. 

At  present  no  passport  is  necessary  for  traveling  in 
Mexico. 

*  This  list  is  not  intended  to  supplement  the  vocabulary  at  end  of  Part 
Second. 


CUSTOM-HOUSES.— COMMERCE.  65 

VIII. 
Custom-Houses. 

According  to  the  laws  of  Mexico,  the  examination  of 
baggage  will  be  made  "liberally  and  with  prudence  and 
moderation."  In  general  the  tourist  will  be  treated  politely 
by  the  customs  officers.  As  regards  wearing-apparel  and 
jewelry  for  personal  use,  the  amount  of  that  which  will  not 
be  subject  to  duty  is  left  entirely  to  the  discretion  of  the 
Government  officials,  taking  into  consideration,  however, 
the  character  and  social  position  of  the  traveler. 

At  present  the  following  "extra"  articles  are  admitted 
free  of  duty  : 

Two  watches  with  their  chains. 

One  hundred  cigars. 

Forty  small  boxes  of  cigarettes. 

Half  kilogramme  of  snuff. 

Half  kilogramme  of  smoking  tobacco. 

One  pair  of  pistols  with  accessory  and  with  two  hundred 
charges. 

A  rifle,  a  gun  or  fowling-piece,  with  accessory  and  with 
two  hundred  charges. 

One  pair  of  musical  instruments,  excepting  piano-fortes 
and  organs. 

Other  objects  not  included  in  the  foregoing  list  are,  of 
course,  subject  to  the  duties  fixed  by  the  Mexican  tariff. 
(See  chapter  on  Duties.) 


IX. 

Commerce. 

The  chief  exports  of  Mexico  are  :    Gold,  silver,  cop- 
per ore,   coffee,    cochineal,  vanilla,  indigo,  hides,  hemp, 


64  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

mahogany  and  otlier  woods.  The  staple  imports  are  cot- 
ton, linen,  and  woolen  manufactures,  wrought  iron,  and  ma- 
chinery. 

In  1875-'76  the  imports  amounted  in  value  to  128,485,- 
000,  and  the  exports  to  $35,435,000,  of  which  $15,000,000 
was  silver. 

The  foreign  commerce  in  1879-80  was  as  follows  : 

To  the  United  States $13,416,600 

To  Great  Britain 11,037,594 

To  France 5,194,741 

To  Germany 1,498,734 

To  Spain 1,009,368 

To  South  America 506,488 

$32,663,526 

Of  this  sum  the  main  exports  were  as  follows  : 

Silver $19,823,397 

Gold 1,180,815 

Copper 48,692 

Minerals 483,587 

Building  woods 1,597,599 

Other  merchandise 9,529,435 

$32,663,525 

The  following  table  shows  the  trade  of  the  United  States 
with  Mexico  for  the  three  fiscal  years  ending  June  30, 1879, 
1880,  and  1881  : 


1879. 

1880. 

1881. 

Exports 

$6,761,284 
14,047,819 

$7,869,864 
16,325,417 

$11,172,738 
17,454,126 

Imports 

Total 

$20,809,103 

$24,195,281 

$28,626,864 

It  will  be  seen  that  this  table  shows  an  increase  of  trade 
of  $7,817,761  in  two  years. 


COMMERCE.  55 

Smuggling  is  practiced  extensively  along  the  northern 
frontier  of  Mexico. 

Competent  judges  estimate  that  the  annual  loss  to  the 
Government  from  this  source  amounts  to  13,000,000.  It 
is  said  that  even  some  of  the  highest  officials  are  implicated 
in  schemes  for  smuggling. 

According  to  the  Official  Journal,  the  total  value  of 
exports  for  the  fiscal  year  of  1882-'83  was  $29,083,000,  of 
■which  about  $14,000,000  were  sent  to  the  United  States, 
and  $10,000,000  to  England.  One  half  of  the  exports  were 
shipped  from  Vera  Cruz.  The  amount  of  sugar  and  tobacco 
exported  was  only  $617,000  in  value. 

MOVEMENTS   OF   VESSELS   IN"   MEXICAIST   PORTS   IN   1879-'80.* 
Flag.  No.  of  ve.ssels. 

Mexican , , 2,227 

United  States 332 

English 162 

French 115 

German 112 

Spanish 64 

Norwegian 48 

Danish 33 

Dutch 12 

Other  flags 26 

Total 3,131 

The  total  tonnage  of  vessels  entered  can  be  estimated  at 
1,000,000.  The  Mexican  merchant  marine  consists  of  431 
vessels  engaged  in  foreign  trade,  and  847  barks  employed 
in  coasting.  A  Mexican  line  of  steamers  to  England  and 
Italy  is  about  to  be  established.  (For  description,  see  chap- 
ter on  Traveling. ) 

*  Translated  from  the  Almanack  de  Gotha. 


66 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


X. 
Army  and  Navy. 

Army. — Estimated  yearly  cost  of  maintenance,  18,000,- 


000. 


The  personnel  of  the  army  is  as  follows  r 


Infantry,  20  battalions 

Cavalry,  14  regiments 

Artillery,  6  brigades  and  5  batteries 

Coast-guard 

Rurales — i.  e.,  mounted  patrols . . . . 
Invalids 

Total 


Officers. 

Men. 

740 

12,200 

518 

4,850 

180 

1,645 

22 

71 

150 

1,692 

19 

280 

1,629 

20,738 

12,940 

5,368 

1,825 

93 

1,842 

299 


22,367 


Each  State  has  also  militia  of  its  own,  which  takes  the 
place  of  a  police  force  to  a  considerable  extent.  All  the 
prison-doors  are  guarded  by  soldiers,  although  the  keepers 
are  civilians. 

The  soldiers  are  armed -with  Eemington  rifles  and  car- 
bines ;  and  the  sabres  used  are  chiefly  of  American  manu- 
facture.    The  dress-uniform  is  of  a  dark  blue. 

Several  of  the  officers  of  the  Mexican  army  are  reformed 
brigands.  In  some  States,  where  powerful  bands  of  ban- 
ditti defied  the  authorities  for  years,  the  Government  has 
finally  dispersed  them  by  giving  the  leader  a  military  com- 
mission, and  then  sending  him  to  fight  against  his  old 
comrades. 

A  large  number  of  the  ofiicers  who  were  in  the  army 
before  1876  are  now  on  the  retired  list,  with  pay.  They 
retain  their  rank,  without  power.  The  present  (Liberal) 
Government  deems  this  policy  advisable. 

It  may  be  remarked  that  Don  Agustin  Iturbide,  the 


DUTIES.  5Y 

grandson  of  the  Emperor  Iturbidc,  and  adopted  heir  of 
Maximilian,  holds  a  commission  in  the  republican  army. 
He  studied  at  Tacubaya,  the  seat  of  the  National  Military 
Academy. 

Navy, — The  navy  consists  of  four  gunboats. 


XI. 

Duties. 

Ais"  elaborate  description  of  the  Mexican  tariff  would 
be  out  of  place  in  this  guide-book.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that 
there  is  an  import  duty  on  almost  everything,  excejot 
agricultural  and  scientific  instruments  and  books.  Up  to 
November  1,  1882,  machinery  was  admitted  free.  It  now 
bears  a  duty  of  fifty  cents  per  hundred  kilogrammes  (220 
pounds).  Since  November  1,  1881,  there  has  been  an  ad- 
ditional ''package"  duty  on  merchandise  imported  into  the 
Eepublic.  Nearly  all  articles  are  taxed  heavily,  especially 
carriages,  buggies,  and  wagons.  The  traveler,  in  entering 
the  country  by  his  own  carriage  (either  via  the  Rio  Grande 
or  otherwise),  is  obliged  to  give  a  bond  to  secure  the  amount 
of  duties  on  the  vehicle,  in  case  he  intends  to  return  to  the 
United  States.  If  the  bond  is  not  filed,  the  regular  import 
duty  must  be  paid. 

It  may  be  remarked  that  the  Government  pays  the  sub- 
sidies to  the  various  railroads  out  of  the  customs  duties. 
An  amount  varying  from  four  to  six  j)er  cent  of  the  cus- 
toms receipts  is  pledged,  and  revenue-bonds  are  issued 
bearing  no  interest  (see  chapter  on  railroads).  At  present 
negotiations  for  a  reciprocity  treaty  are  pending  between 
the  United  States  of  America  and  Mexico.  It  is  said  that 
an  extensive  revision  of  the  Mexican  tariff  is  about  to  be 
made,  by  which  the  duties  will  be  considerably  reduced. 


58  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

XII. 
Taxes. 

In  ancient  Mexico  tlie  public  tax  was  often  paid  in 
agricultural  produce.  The  taxes  are  now  levied  both  by 
the  National  and  State  Governments.  There  are  also  spe- 
cial taxes  for  railways  and  other  purposes.  Every  State 
has  its  own  tax  levy,  which  varies  from  year  to  year.  The 
Federal  tax  is  usually  one  quarter  of  the  tax  paid  to  the 
State.  It  is  oftentimes  very  difficult  to  collect  the  former, 
as  the  Eei^ublic  can  not  sue  the  State  Government  for  any 
deficiency  that  may  exist.  A  Federal  treasurer,  called  the 
jefe  de  liacienda,  resides  in  each  of  the  several  States,  to 
gather  the  taxes  due  the  General  Government.  Taxation 
is  very  heavy  throughout  the  country,  and  especially  in  the 
districts  adjoining  the  route  of  the  American  railroads. 


XIIL 

Finance.*     (in  Dollars.) 

Receipts.— Budget,  1882-83. 

Custom-houses 15,000,000 

Custom-house  of  Mexico  and  excise 2,000,000 

Stamps 4,000,000 

Direct  tax 900,000 

Mint 690,000 

Receipts  from  former  fund  for  public  education 60,000 

Post-offices  and  telegraphs 650,000 

Lotteries 800,000 

Other  receipts 3,000,000 

Total 27,100,000 

Receipts  from  the  several  States 7,500,000 

Grand  total 34,600,000 

*  Translated  from  the  Almanack  de  Gotha. 


PUBLIC  DEBT.  59 

Expenditures. 

Legislative  power 1,071,712 

Executive  power 48,832 

Supreme  Court 389,554 

Foreign  affairs 336,280 

Interior 3,235,118 

Justice  and  public  education 1,215,473 

Public  works  (Fomento) 7,551,083 

Treasury 4,648,377 

War  and  navy 8,514,478 

Total 27,011,507 

Expenditures  of  the  several  States 7,500,000 

Grand  total 84,511,507 


XIV. 
Public  Debt. 


1.  Foreign  debts : 

English  debt  of  Oct.  14, 1850 $89,252,360 

English  convention  of  Dec.  4,  1851 .  5,900,025 
Spanish  convention  of  Dec.  6,  1853.  1,231,775 
Spanish    convention    of    Nov.    12, 

1853 5,553,287 

Indebtedness  to  the  United  States 

of  July  4,  1868 2,775,123 

$104,712,570 

2.  Internal  debt 40,241,215 

Total* $144,953,785 

The  Mexican  Government  does  not  recognize  the  debts 
as  stated  by  the  English  and  Spanish  conventions.  All  the 
foreign  debts,  except  tliat  due  the  United  States,  are  about 
to  be  consolidated,  and  bonds  bearing  three  per  cent  in- 
terest, to  be  receivable  for  Government  lands,  adjudicated 

*  Translated  from  the  Almanack  de  Gotha. 


60  GENERAL  INFORMATION 

property,  and  letters  patent,  will  be  issued  by  the  Execu- 
tive to  pay  ofE  the  indebtedness.  The  details  of  the  set- 
tlement involving  the  amount  recognized  are  left  entirely 
to  the  Executive. 

The  sum  of  $300,000  is  paid  annually  out  of  the  Na- 
tional Treasury  to  the  United  States,  on  account  of  the 
debt  of  July  4,  1868. 

A  dispatch  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  dated  July  28, 
1883,  reads  as  follows  : 

"  It  is  understood  that  the  President  has  sent  to  Carlos 
Eivas,  in  London,  a  power  of  attorney  to  settle  with  the 
British  bondholders,  with  certain  modifications.  Bonds  to 
the  amount  of  only  £15,000,000  are  to  be  issued  ;  the  ad- 
ditional £4,700,000  in  bonds,  first  agreed  upon  for  the  ex- 
penses of  the  bondholders'  committee,  will  not  be  issued. 
The  bonds  will  be  signed  in  Mexico.  The  coupons  will 
begin  bearing  interest  on  July  21,  1884." 


XV. 

Money— Coins. 

In  the  Aztec  empire,  current  money  consisted  of  bits 
of  tin,  bags  of  cocoa  with  a  specified  number  of  grains, 
and  quills  filled  with  gold-dust.*  These  commodities  were 
used  by  m.easure  and  number,  rather  than  by  weight.  (See 
Prescott's  Conquest  of  Mexico,  vol.  i,  p.  145,  and  vol.  ii, 
p.  140.) 

The  Spaniards  introduced  gold  and  silver  coins  soon 
after  their  arrival  in  the  country.    A  few  of  these  old  coins 

*  Gold-dust  has  been  employed  as  currency  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  the 
United  States  for  many  years.  This  kind  of  money  was  evidently  suggested 
to  the  Spaniards  and  Americans  by  the  Aztecs. 


MONET— COINS.  61 

may  be  found  at  the  shops  of  the  silversmiths,  or  platerias, 
at  the  present  day. 

The  escutcheon  of  Mexico,  i.  e.,  a  royal  eagle,  with  ex- 
panded wings,  standing  on  a  cactus,  holding  a  serpent  in 
its  beak,  is  stamped  on  one  side  of  all  the  silver  coins,  and 
a  liberty-cap  and  rising  sun  are  found  on  the  reverse.  Dur- 
ing the  French  invasion  the  bust  of  Maximilian  was  substi- 
tuted for  the  cap  of  liberty. 

Mexico  has  followed  the  example  of  Spain  in  adopt- 
ing the  decimal  system  of  coinage,  of  which  the  real  is 
the  basis. 

The  current  coins  are  as  follows  : 

SILVER. 

One  peso,*  or  dollar,  containing  8  reales,  or  100  cents. 
Four  reales,  or  one  toston,  50  cents. 
Two  reales,  or  one  peseta,  25  cents. 
One  real,  12^  cents. 
One  medio,  %\  cents. 

COPPER. 

One  cuartillo,  3  cents. 
One  tlaco,  1|  cent. 

KICKEL. 

Coins  of  five  and  two  cents,  and  of  one  cent,  have  re- 
cently been  issued  for  general  circulation. 

The  standard  gold  coin  is  the  onza,  which  equals  $16  ; 
and  there  are  $10  and  $5  gold  pieces.  They  do  not  circu- 
late, however,  so  that  the  traveler  will  have  nothing  to  do 
with  them. 

Paper  currency  has  lately  been  issued  by  the  Mexican 

*  One  peso  is  worth  from  85  to  87  cents  in  United  States  money,  so  that 
a  cent  is  only  equivalent  to  about  8^  mills. 


62  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

National  and  the  Mexican  Mercantile  Banks,  and  the  Lon- 
don Bank  of  Mexico  and  South  America. 

The  Monte  de  Piedad,  a  Governmental  corporation,  has 
bank-bills  from  one  dollar  u]3ward  in  circulation,  which 
are  taken  at  par  throughout  the  Eepublic.  Outside  of 
the  City  of  Mexico  the  currency  of  the  other  banks  is 
received  at  a  discount.  This  fact  should  be  remembered 
by  tourists. 

The  London  Bank  of  Mexico  and  South  America  will 
cash  letters  of  credit  on  British  and  American  bankers,  and 
a  few  of  the  branches  {sucursales)  of  the  Banco  Nacional 
Mexicano  will  do  likewise. 

Travelers  may  also  provide  themselves  with  drafts  on 
the  various  diligence  offices  in  the  interior  of  the  country, 
by  depositing  the  amount  in  advance  at  one  of  the  princi- 
cijial  offices.  In  case  of  robbery  by  brigands,  the  diligence 
company  will  repay  the  value  of  the  draft,  if  it  be  taken 
from  the  person  of  the  tourist,  upon  furnishing  satisfactory 
evidence  to  one  of  the  agents. 

Bankers  will  give  a  higher  rate  of  premium  on  drafts  on 
New  York  than  can  be  had  in  exchanging  money.  In  Vera 
Cruz,  United  States  money  may  be  exchanged  for  Mexican 
currency  at  113  to  114  cents  on  the  dollar  ;  and  in  Monterey 
and  near  the  American  frontier,  the  rate  is  as  high  as  115 
cents.* 

In  the  City  of  Mexico  the  banking  hours  are  from  10 
A.  M.  to  4  p.  M.,  and  in  other  cities  from  9  to  12  A.  m.,  and 
from  3  to  4  p.  M.    ' 

Up  to  the  year  1883  the  Mexican  Government  has  ex- 
acted an  export  duty  of  5  per  cent  on  coin.  It  is  now  re- 
mitted. For  the  iSscal  year  ending  June  30,  1882,  the  coin 
and  bullion  exported  amounted  to  $6,631,938. 

*  Mexican  coia  can  be  purchased  on  better  terms  the  farther  the  seller 
is  from  the  country. 


POST-OFFICE  AND  LETTERS. 


63 


XVI. 

Mints. 

There  were  formerly  fourteen  mints  in  the  country, 
the  oldest  of  which  is  that  of  the  City  of  Mexico.  Visitors 
are  admitted  to  these  institutions  from  8  to  12  a.  m.,  and 
from  1  to  4  p.  m.  It  is  better  to  go  in  the  morning,  as  the 
workmen  are  more  commonly  emjiloyed  during  this  time. 
English  machinery  is  generally  used  at  the  mints. 

The  following  table,  taken  from  Senor  Busto's  great 
work,  gives  the  coinage  of  the  mints  for  the  fiscal  year  of 
1878  to  1879  : 


Mints. 

Gold. 

Silver. 

Copper. 

Total. 

Mexico 

$304,500  00 

50,111  00 

212,158  00 

$5,116,000  00 
4,597,939  50 
3,740,403  75 
2,519,110  00 
1,413,161  00 
806,025  00 
891,951  00 

$14,800  00 

$5,435,300  00 
4  648  050  50 

Zacatecas 

Guanajuato 

San  Luis  Potosi  . . 

3,952,561   75 
2,519,110  00 

Guadalajara 

Chihuahua 

3,830  00 

1,500  00 

1,418,491  00 
806  025  00 

Cuiiacan ,. . , 

49,230  00 

23,935  00 

13,700  00 

1,360  00 

3,700  00 

941,181  00 

Durango 

854,882  50 
756,598  15 
555,650  00 
153,610  00 

878,817  50 
770,298  15 

Alamos 

Hermosillo 

557,010  GO 

Oaxaca 

157,310  00 

$662,524  00 

$21,405,330  90 

$16,300  00$22,084,154  90 

XVII. 
Post-Office  and  Letters. 

Before  the  Conquest  letters  were  carried  throughout 
tlie  realm  by  swift  -  footed  couriers.  The  distance  from 
Vera  Cruz  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  about  300  miles,  was 
traversed  in  twenty-four  hours. 


64:  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Eeports  and  messages  were  generally  transmitted  in 
picture-writing.  It  was  in  this  manner  that  Montezuma 
learned  of  the  arrival  of  Cortes  and  his  warriors. 

The  various  lines  of  steamers  now  carry  the  mail  along 
the  coast,  and  the  railways,  diligences,  and  special  couriers, 
transport  it  into  the  interior. 

In  1881  the  number  of  post-offices  in  the  Republic  was 
873,  and  the  proceeds  from  the  sale  of  stamps  amounted  to 
$500,000  annually. 

In  addressing  letters,  Sr.,  Don,  stand  for  *'Mr.,"  and 
Senora  is  used  as  the  title  for  ''Mrs."  Strangers  should 
omit  such  affixes  as  "  esquire,"  in  directing  letters,  on  ac- 
count of  the  difficulty  the  Mexican  clerks  have  in  decipher- 
ing foreign  names. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  mail  at  the  post-office,  the  names 
on  the  letters  are  written  on  lists,  and  placed  on  bulletin- 
boards  near  the  door.  There  are  separate  lists  for  letters 
coming  from  foreign  countries,  from  the  interior,  and 
from  the  city  or  county  in  which  the  post-office  is  situ- 
ated. Sometimes  a  local  letter  is  put  on  the  foreign 
list  by  mistake.  It  will  be  advisable,  therefore,  for  the 
stranger  to  look  at  all  the  bulletins.  If  the  traveler  sees 
his  name  on  the  list,  he  should  write  it  down  just  as  it 
appears  on  the  board,  and  hand  it  to  the  clerk  at  the 
window. 

Post-offices  are  generally  open  from  8  to  12  A.  m.,  and 
from  3  to  9  p.  m.,  throughout  the  country.  In  the  City 
of  Mexico  the  office  hours  are  from  9  A.  m.  to  1  p.  m.,  and 
from  3  to  5  p.  m. 

Tourists  are  recommended  to  go  to  the  post-office  in 
person,  in  depositing  or  receiving  their  letters,  in  order  to 
guard  against  mistakes. 

Public  letter- wi'iters  do  a  considerable  business  on  the 
plazas  of  all  the  principal  cities.  Many  of  the  natives  can 
not  write.      In  times  of  revolutions  the  post-office  is  of 


POST-OFFICE  AND  LETTERS.  65 

little  use,  as  the  insurgents  examine,  and  often  confiscate, 
the  correspondence. 

At  present,  the  rates  for  postage  in  the  interior  of 
Mexico  are  so  high  that  letter-writing  is  rather  expen- 
sive. The  foreign  are  much  lower  than  the  domestic 
rates. 

Stamp-tariff. — For  single  letters  to  points  in  the  inte- 
rior of  the  country,  not  exceeding  16  leagues,  the  rate  is 
10  cents  for  each  quarter  of  an  ounce  ;  25  cents  for  half  an 
ounce  ;  35  cents  for  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  ;  50  cents 
for  each  ounce. 

Single  letters  to  points  exceeding  16  leagues,  25  cents* 
for  each  quarter  of  an  ounce  ;  35  cents  for  half  an  ounce  ; 
50  cents  for  three  quarters  of  an  ounce  ;  and  GO  cents  for 
each  ounce. 

Printed  matter  in  unsealed  wrappers,  5  cents  a  pound, 
or  11.25  for  a  package  weighing  one  arroba  (25  pounds). 

Unsealed  business  circulars,  5  cents  each,  or  $4  a  hun- 
dred. Printed  or  eugrayed  cards  on  pasteboard  or  vellum, 
75  cents  a  pound. 

For  Foreign  Letters. — Each  half  ounce  (15  grammes), 
5  cents  ;  postal-cards,  2  cents  each. 

Printed  matter  of  all  kinds  : 

1  cent  for  50  grammes  or  less. 

2  cents  for  100  grammes. 

3  cents  for  150  grammes. 

4  cents  for  200  grammes  and  up  to  2  kilogrammes. 
Each  State  in  the  Eepublic  has  its  own  stamps,  with 

particular  numbers  marked  on  them.  No  stamps  are  al- 
lowed to  be  taken  outside  of  the  post-office,  except  in  the 
city  of  Vera  Cruz.  The  rules  of  the  department  require 
that  letters  must  be  delivered  at  the  stamp-window,  f  where 

*  After  January  1, 188-1,  inland  postage  will  be  10  cents  for  each  quarter 
of  an  ounce. 

f  This  regulation  is  of  great  annoyance  to  the  tourist. 


66  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

the  amount  of  postage  should  be  paid.     The  Government    -l 
officials  attach  the  stamjjs  to  the  enveloiies.    In  the  national 
capital  there  are  various  shops,  in  the  business  part  of  the 
city,  at  which  letters  will  be  received  and  forwarded. 


XYIII. 
Telegraphs. 

There  are  several  lines  of  telegraph  in  operation  through- 
out the  Kepublic.  The  Federal  Grovernment  has  its  wires 
all  over  the  country,  and  the  States  of  Zacatecas,  Hidalgo, 
Morelos,  and  Michoacan,  also  own  telegraph-lines.  The 
Mexican  Eailway  Company,  the  Mexican  National  Rail- 
way Company,  the  Mexican  Central  Eailroad  Company, 
and  the  Morelos  Eailway  Company,  have  erected  lines  of 
telegraph. 

It  may  be  remarked  that,  in  the  case  of  the  Mexi- 
can National  Eailway  Com^jany,  the  General  Govern- 
ment reserves  the  right  to  put  up  two  wires  on  its 
poles. 

There  are  private  lines  in  the  States  of  Jalisco  and  Vera 
Cruz.  That  of  the  latter  State  extends  from  the  capital  to 
the  city  of  Vera  Cruz,  and  is  called  the  Commercial  Tele- 
graph Line.  A  New  York  corporation,  entitled  the  Mexi- 
can Telegraph  Company,  has  established  itseK  in  the 
country  ;  and  there  are  submarine  cables  running  from 
Mexico  to  the  United  States,  Central  America,  and  South 
America. 

All  the  railway  stations  contain  telegraph  offices,  and 
the  hours  of  business  are  in  general  from  8  A.  m.  to  8  p.  m. 
The  principal  offices  of  the  lines  belonging  to  the  National 
and  State  Governments  are  in  the  business  part  of  the 
larger  cities.     English  is  rarely  spoken  by  the  operators ; 


CENSUS.  67 

and  the  rates  for  messages  are  much  higher  than  in  the 
United  States. 

On  the  1st  of  June,  1883,  the  total  number  of  telegraph 
lines  in  operation  amounted  to  10,200  miles.  The  Mexican 
Central  and  Mexican  National  Railroad  Companies  are 
erecting  telegraph-poles  as  fast  as  each  mile  of  track  is 
completed.  In  some  cases  the  wires  are  extended  beyond 
the  temporary  terminus. 


XIX. 

Census. 

No  complete  census  has  ever  been  taken  of  the  Mexican 
Republic.  The  figures  given  in  the  public  documents  are 
generally  estimates  rather  than  correct  enumerations  of  the 
inhabitants. 

At  the  time  of  Humboldt's  visit  (in  1803),  the  total 
population  was  5,840,000. 

In  1838,  it  was  7,044,140  ;  in  1856,  7,859,564  ;  in  1872, 
9,097,056  ;  in  1874,  9,343,470  ;  in  1878,  9,384,193  ;  in 
1879,  9,577,279  ;  in  1882,  10,000,000.* 

In  1803,  the  number  of  inhabitants  in  the  three  principal 
cities  was  in  Mexico  (city),  135,000;  Puebla,  67,800;  Gua- 
dalajara, 19,500. 

In  1879,  Mexico  had  a  population  of  241,110 ;  Guada- 
lajara, 78,600  ;  Puebla,  64,588. 

The  following  table,  copied  from  Seflor  Busto's  great 
work,  gives  the  poj^ulation  of  the  several  States,  their 
area  and  the  number  of  inhabitants  to  the  square  kilo- 
metre ;  also  the  poj^ulation  of  the  capitals  of  the  States, 
in  1879  : 

*  This  list  is  taken  from  Busto's  Edadistica  de  la  Republica  Mexi- 
cana. 


68 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


1.  Aguascalientes 

2.  Lower  California(Ter.) 

3.  Campeche 

4.  Coahuila  de  Zaragoza . 

5.  Colima 

6.  Chiapas 

7.  CWhuahua 

8.  Federal  District 

9.  Duranffo..   

10.  Guanajuato 

11.  Guerrero 

12.  Hidalgo 

13.  Jalisco 

14.  Mexico 

15.  Michoacan  de  Ocampo 

16.  Morales 

17.  Nuevo-Leon 

18.  Oaxaca 

19.  Puebla 

20.  Queretaro  de  Arteaga 

21.  San  Luis  Potosi 

23.  Sinaloa 

23.  Sonera 

24.  Tabasco 

25.  Tamaulipas 

26.  Tlaxcala 

27.  Vera  Cruz 

28.  Yucatan..  

29.  Zacatecas 


5,776 

152,847 

67,539 

152,51 7 1 

7,136 

43,930 ! 

272,716' 

231 1 

110,463' 

20,276' 

68,568 1 

21,693 

114,896! 

25,245; 

55,693' 

4.536 

38,156 

70,838 

81,120 

8,300 

71,210 

69,211 

209,694 

32.935 

75,191 

3,898 

71,116 

&4,585 

68,596 


140,430 
23,195 
86,299 
104,131 
65,827 
219,735 
180,758 
354,340 
190,846 
788,21(2 
808,716 
434,096 
994,900 
696,038 
648,857 
154,946 
194,801 
718,194 
704,372 
179,915 
506,799 
167,093 
139,140 
93,387 
144,747 
133,498 
504,970 
285,364 
413,003 


1,958,912  9,571,279 


Capitals  of  the  States. 


24-30 

0-15 

1-28 

0-68 

9-22 

500 

0-66 

1,533-94 

1-73 

38-87 

4-50 

20-01 

8-66 

27-57 1 

11-65' 

34-16 

511 

10-14J 

22-63 

21-68 

7-12 

2-41 

0-66 

2-84 

1-92 

84-25 

7-10 

3-37i 

6-03 


Aguascalientes 

La  Paz 

Campeche 

SaltUle 

Colima 

San  Cristobal  las  Casas. . . . 

Chihuahua 

Mexico,  cap.  of  the  Kep. . . 

Durange 

Guanajuato 

Chilpancingo  de  los  Bravos. 

Pachuca  de  Guerrero 

Guadalajara 

Toluca 

Morelia 

Cuernavaca 

Monterey 

Oaxaca  de  Juarez 

Puebla  de  Zaragoza 

Quer6tare 

San  Luis  Potesi 

Culiacan 

Ures 

San  Juan  Bautista 

Ciudad  Victoria 

Tlaxcala 

Jalapa 

M6rida 

Zacatecas 


31,872 

2.396 

15,190 

11,840 

23,572 

8,500 

12,116 

241,110 

27,119 

56,112 

3,800 

12,500 

78,600 

12,300 

20,400 

16,320 

15,300 

26,228 

64,588 

27,560 

34,800 

7.878 

9,700 

6,800 

7,800 

4,300 

12,400 

32,000 

32,000 


854,101 


XX. 

Population. 

The  population  of  Mexico  is  divided  into  four  great 
castes,  as  follows : 

Wliites  (individuals  born  in  Europe,  Spanish  Creoles 
born  in  America) ;  Indians  ;  negroes  ;  a  mixed  race  (mesti- 
zos from  whites  and  Indians,  mulattoes  from  whites  and 
negroes,  zambos  from  Indians  and  negroes). 

The  Indians  outnumber  the  other  inhabitants.  They 
are  variously  estimated  at  from  one  half  to  three  quarters 
of  the  entire  population.    They  are  a  long-lived  race,  small 


ARCHITECTURE.  69 

in  stature,  but  possessing  great  endurance.  Thus  far  the 
Indians  have  not  been  aifected  by  foreign  influence.  It  is 
very  diSicult  to  give  a  correct  estimate  of  the  number  of 
foreigners  in  the  country.  We  are  disposed  to  believe  that 
it  does  not  exceed  100,000.  Tlie  foreign  population  con- 
sists chiefly  of  French,  Spaniards,  Americans,  Germans, 
Italians,  and  English.  They  live  mostly  in  the  cities  of 
Mexico,  Vera  Cruz,  Puebla,  Chihuahua,  Guanajuato,  Mon- 
terey, and  Guaymas.  The  Mexicans  reside  principally  in 
cities  and  towns.  In  the  rural  districts  the  traveler  will 
find  some  haciendas,  or  farm-houses,  at  a  distance  from  any 
settlement,  but  isolated  dwellings  are  rarely  met  with. 
Except  along  the  trunk-lines  of  railroad,  one  can  ride  fif- 
teen or  twenty  miles  in  many  parts  of  the  Kepublic  with- 
seeing  a  house. 

XXI. 

Architecture. 

The  architecture  of  the  ruined  palaces  and  temples  of 
Mexico  is  described  in  the  chapter  on  ruins.  It  may  be 
said,  however,  that  the  former  resemble  the  buildings  of 
the  ancient  Greeks  and  Eomans  in  ornamentation,  and  the 
latter  are  not  unlike  the  pyramids  of  Egypt  in  external  ap- 
pearance. 

The  prevailing  style  of  modern  architecture  through- 
out the  Eepublic  is  the  Spanish  renaissance.  Almost  every 
cathedral  and  church  in  the  country  are  built  in  this  fash- 
ion. The  faQades  of  the  churches  often  contain  beau- 
t\h\l  stone  carvings  of  figures  of  the  saints,  and  also 
arabesque  work.  Mexico,  Puebla,  Morelia,  and  Guadala- 
jara, contain  cathedrals  that  compare  favorably  with  those 
of  any  other  cities  in  the  world.  The  plans  of  most  of 
the  Mexican  churches  were  drawn  in  Spain.  The  build- 
ings used  for  secular  purposes,  especially  those  belonging 


ARCHITECTURE.  Yl 

to  the  Government,  are  imposing  and  commodious.  The 
largest  edifice  in  Mexico  is  the  national  palace  at  the  capi- 
tal.    It  has  two  high  stories  and  a  frontage  of  675  feet. 

Most  of  the  houses  have  one  story,  and  are  provided 
with  a  patio,  or  courtyard,  in  which  flowers  and  fruit-trees 
are  planted.  The  roofs  are  generally  covered  with  tiles,  of 
which  red  is  the  prevailing  color.  In  the  principal  cities  a 
second  story  is  added  ;  but  in  the  capital,  and  in  the  min- 
ing towns  of  Guanajuato  and  Zacatecas,  where  land  is  quite 
valuable,  the  buildings  contain  three,  and  often  four  (in- 
cluding the  entresol),  floors.  "While  the  larger  edifices  are 
constructed  of  igneous  rocks,  such  as  porous  amygdaloid, 
trachyte,  and  porphyry,  the  dwelling-houses  are  usually 
made  of  brick  and  stuccoed.  The  roofs  of  the  former  are 
flat,  and  commonly  furnished  with  a  low  wall,  whereas  those 
of  the  latter  slant  from  the  ridge-piece  and  are  provided 
with  eaves.  In  some  cities  the  eaves  are  of  sufficient  size 
to  afford  protection  to  the  i)edestrian  from  the  sun  and 
rain. 

As  a  rule,  all  buildings  in  Mexico  are  erected  in  the 
most  substantial  manner.  The  walls  are  of  great  thick- 
ness, and  cellars  are  rarely  seen.  The  windows  are  gen- 
erally covered  with  railings  of  Biscay  iron,  reminding  the 
traveler  of  Spain.  Balconies  are  added  to  those  above  the 
ground-floor.  Many  private  residences  of  the  better  class 
have  porte-cocheres,  and  a  fountain  in  the  paved  court- 
yards. The  dry  climate  is  favorable  to  the  endurance  of 
the  edifices,  and  many  houses  built  soon  after  the  Conquest 
are  still  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation. 

In  the  villages  on  the  table-land,  the  most  common 
building  material  is  adobe,  or  sun-dried  brick.  The 
peasants  living  in  the  tierra  caliente  and  tierra  templada, 
commonly  use  sugar-cane  stalks  and  palm-leaves  in  making 
their  huts. 

Tourists  are  advised  to  spend  much  of  their  time  in 


72  GENERAL  INFOBMATIOK 

visiting  the  cliurclies.  The  cathedrals  are  generally  pro- 
vided with  two  towers,  from  which  a  fine  view  of  the  city- 
may  be  obtained.  These  religious  edifices  are  usually 
built  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  and  the  interior  is 
seldom  frescoed.  The  traveler  soon  grows  weary  of  the 
white  plastered  walls,  on  which  indifferent  paintings  are 
frequently  hung. 

The  cathedral  of  Puebla  has  a  stone  floor,  while  that  of 
Mexico  is  of  wood,  which  seems  out  of  place  in  comparison 
with  the  solid  magnificence  of  the  building.  The  objects 
of  interest  in  a  Spanish  church  are  :  the  high  altar,  the 
stalls  in  the  choir,  the  lateral  chapels,  and  the  relics  and 
vestments  in  the  sacristy. 

The  following  terms  applied  to  different  portions  of 
churches  will  be  found  useful : 

Fachadas,  fa9ades  ;  lonja,  a  long  platform,  which  often 
surrounds  the  churches  exteriorly,  and  which  is  ascended 
by  steps  or  grees,  escalinata  or  gradas. 

The  font  is  pila  hautismal. 

Pila  de  agua  hendita  is  the  stoup,  or  font,  containing 
holy  water ;  coro,  is  the  choir ;  trascoro,  the  back  to  it, 
often  profusely  decorated  ;  the  resjjoldos  del  coro  are  the 
lateral  sides  of  it. 

The  stalls  are  sillas,  forming  sillaria  alia,  or  baja,  as 
the  case  may  be. 

The  choristers'  desks  are  called  atriles ;  the  lectern, 
facistol,  and  the  transept,  crucero.  Over  it  often  rises  a 
dome  or  lantern,  which  is  called  cimhorio,  and,  from  its 
shape,  media  naranja. 

The  purclose,  or  railings,  rejas,  are  often  beautifully 
executed,  and  made  of  silver. 

The  abside  contains  a  capilla  mayor,  with  the  high 
altar,  altar  mayor  ;  the  r credos,  or  screen  rising  from  it,  is 
named  the  retahlo.  The  latter  are  commonly  exquisitely 
gilded.     The  right  side  of  the  altar — i.  e.,  the  right  of  the 


PAiNimo.  Y3 

celebrant,  looking  from  the  altar — is  called  lado  del  evan- 
gelio  ;  the  left  is  lado  de  la  ejnstola. 

The  chapter  is  el  cabildo. 

The  sarjrario  is  a  special  chapel,  where  the  Holy  of 
Holies  is  often  placed,  de  manifiesto,  or  displayed. 

The  vestry  is  la  sacristia  ;  the  sexton,  sacristan. 

The  relics,  yestments,  plate,  etc.,  are  kept  in  what  is 
called  el  relicario. 

Monaguillos  are  the  vestry  boys. 

Misa  mayor  is  high  mass. 

The  belfry  is  la  tor  re  or  el  campanario. 


XXII. 

Painting. 

The  art  of  painting  was  rudely  known  among  the  Az- 
tecs, whose  means  of  conveying  information  was  called 
picture-toritmg.  Unfortunately  for  learning  as  well  as 
for  art,  Zumarraga,  the  first  bishop  of  Mexico,  ordered  all 
Aztec  paintings  and  manuscripts  to  be  committed  to  the 
flames.  There  are,  however,  a  few  specimens  of  these  an- 
tique pictures  in  the  museum  at  the  national  capital. 
There  are  but  two  academies  of  fine  arts  in  the  Eepublic, 
one  at  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  one  at  Guadalajara.  Art 
schools  are  connected  with  each,  and  another  has  been  es- 
tablished at  Puebla. 

The  academy  of  San  Carlos,  at  the  capital,  contains 
paintings  of  considerable  merit.  Among  the  best  Mexican 
artists  are  Jose  and  Luis  Juarez,  Baltazar  de  Chave,  Obre- 
gon,  Parra,  Arteaga,  Rodriguez,  Ibarra,  and  Cabrera,  the 
latter  being  an  Indian.  There  are  several  excellent  por- 
traits of  illustrious  Mexicans  in  the  Sala  de  Emhaj adores 
at  the  National  Palace,  most  of  them  having  been  painted 
by  Segredo  and  Obregon. 
4 


74  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

The  churches  throughout  the  country  are  full  of  pic- 
tures, most  of  which  are  the  work  of  Spanish  artists,  such 
as  Murillo,  Velasquez,  Zurbaran,  and  Ribera.  There  are 
paintings  by  the  former  in  the  cathedrals  of  Mexico  and 
Puebla,  and  in  the  church  of  La  Compania  at  the  latter  city. 

The  picturesque  landscapes  and  street  scenes  of  Mexico 
afford  good  material  for  artists,  and  we  would  recommend 
the  country  to  them  as  a  new  field  of  labor. 


XXIII. 
ImmigTation. 

The  Mexican  Government  has  recently  adopted  a  com- 
prehensive plan  for  the  encouragement  of  immigration. 
Agents  are  employed  to  bring  settlers  into  the  country. 
There  is  a  bonus  of  from  forty  to  fifty  dollars  a  head  for 
each  immigrant,  and  the  Government  gives  each  helpless 
one  an  allowance  of  twenty-five  cents  a  day  till  he  can  sup- 
port himself.  Many  Italians  have  come  into  Mexico.  Some 
have  been  brought  from  New  York,  and  others  directly 
from  the  ports  of  Northern  Italy.  This  scheme,  however, 
is  not  productive  of  beneficial  results.  Each  immigrant  is 
maintained  at  the  public  expense  for  an  indefinite  period, 
and  there  is  little  incentive  to  work.  Furthermore,  a 
number  of  these  Italian  settlers  belong  to  the  criminal 
classes.  A  Mexican  official  of  high  rank  has  lately  in- 
formed the  author  that  this  j)lan  is  about  to  be  discon- 
tinued. 

The  Mexican  Transatlantic  Steamship  Company  *  will 
receive  thirty  dollars  a  head  for  each  immigrant. 

As  the  Federal  Government  owns  but  little  land,  of 
which  sections  may  be  given  to  settlers,  arrangements  have 
been  made  with  the  railroads  to  carry  immigrants  to  the 
*  The  company's  steamers  are  now  in  progress  on  the  Clyde. 


immigration:  75 

interior  at  reduced  rates.  The  Government  will  pay  for 
their  passage  ;  but,  as  the  metes  and  bounds  of  the  public 
lands  are  not  accurately  defined,  it  would  seem  as  if  no 
lands  could  be  given  away  at  present. 

Setior  M.  Komero  states,  in  The  International  Revieiu 
for  November,  1882,  that  land  in  the  State  of  Chiapas  is 
valued  at  twenty  cents  an  acre,  while  that  in  Sonora  is 
worth  only  five  cents. 

Land  is  not  for  sale,  however,  in  large  quantities,  ex- 
cepting a  few  stock-ranches  in  Northern  Mexico.  The 
proprietors  are  still  sufficiently  imbued  with  feudal  notions 
to  prompt  them  to  hold  on  to  their  real  estate.  A  few 
families  still  retain  immense  tracts.  One  hacendado  is 
said  to  own  an  area  of  10,000  square  miles  on  the  northern 
part  of  the  Great  Plateau. 

The  railroad  companies  have  occasionally  been  obliged 
to  pay  very  high  for  a  site  on  which  to  build  a  station  and 
freight-house  in  the  farming  districts. 

We  venture  to  predict  that  settlers  will  pour  into  Mex- 
ico rapidly  after  the  American  trunkrlines  are  completed. 

It  is  obvious,  however,  that  the  introduction  of  intelli- 
gent Americans,  with  capital,  will  be  a  very  different  thing 
from  the  influx  of  poverty-stricken  peasants  or  miners  from 
Europe. 

American  immigration  means  permanent  colonization, 
whereas  that  from  other  countries  will  hardly  attain  that 
distinction. 

It  is  possible,  however,  that  colonies  of  German  or  Brit- 
ish miners  may  be  established  in  Mexico.  High  wages  and 
the  salubrious  climate  will  tend  to  attract  them.  During 
the  year  1882  settlements  of  Europeans  were  founded  in 
the  States  of  Vera  Cruz,  Puebla,  Morelos,  and  San  Luis 
Potosi.  The  majority  will  certainly  enter  the  Eepublic 
with  the  intention  of  engaging  in  either  mining  or  manu- 
facturing enterprises. 


76  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

XXIV. 
Mines. 

An  elaborate  description  of  the  mineral  wealth  of  Mex- 
ico wonld  require  a  large  volume.  We  have  only  space  for 
a  brief  account  of  the  mines,  together  with  some  statistics 
of  the  production  of  the  precious  metals. 

The  Cordillera,  from  Chihuahua  on  the  north  to  Oaxaca 
on  the  south,  contains  almost  inexhaustible  deposits  of 
gold,  silver,  iron,  copper,  and  lead  ;  while  zinc,  mercury, 
tin,  platinum,  and  coal  occur  in  a  few  localities.  The 
greatest  variety  of  ores  is  found  in  the  States  of  Sonora, 
Chihuahua,  Michoacan,  Guerrero,  and  Oaxaca.  The  first 
and  last  named  States  of  the  Eepublic  possess  auriferous 
gravel  or  placer  dej)osits. 

Before  the  Conquest  the  mines  of  gold,  silver,  copper,  and 
tin  were  worked  by  the  Aztecs  ;  but  the  accounts  usually 
given  of  the  fabulous  amount  of  gold  used  by  this  race  of 
people,  either  for  ornament  or  as  money,  have  been  greatly 
exaggerated.  Cortes  seized  a  large  sum  of  gold  at  the  an- 
cient capital  of  Mexico,  the  amount  of  which  is  variously 
estimated  by  different  authors.  The  most  accurate  writers 
place  the  figures  at  $300,000.  As  soon  as  the  Spaniards 
had  conquered  Mexico,  they  turned  their  attention  to  the 
development  of  the  mineral  wealth  of  the  country.  The 
mines  of  Tasco,  Zultepec,  Pachuca,  San  Pedro  de  Jorullo, 
and  Tlalpujahua  were  almost  the  only  ones  that  were 
worked  directly  after  tlie  destruction  of  the  city  of  Tenoch- 
titlan  in  1531,  and  from  that  time  to  1548,  when  the  silver 
deposits  of  Zacatecas  were  discovered. 

Argentiferous  veins  constitute  the  principal  part  of  the 
mineral  wealth  of  Mexico,  the  silver  generally  occurring 
in  the  form  of  sulphides.  The  gangue  is  chiefly  quartz. 
Most  of  these  mines  are  situated  between  north  latitude 
19°  and  24^°. 


MIXES.  T7 

Humboldt,  in  his  Political  Essay  on  New  Spain,  vol. 
iii,  page  138,  states  the  order  of  the  districts  containing  the 
richest  deposits  of  silver  as  follows  :  1.  Guanajuato.  2. 
Catorce.  3.  Zacatecas.  4.  Eeal  del  Monte.  5.  Bolanos. 
6.  Guarisamey.  7.  Sombrerete.  8.  Tasco.  9.  Batopilas. 
10.  Zimapan.     11.  Fresnillo.     12.  Eamos.     13.   Parral. 

In  1803,*  the  mean  annual  yield  of  the  precious  metals 
amounted  to  2,500,000  marcs  of  silver,  and  700  marcs  of 
gold.  It  is  said  that  the  total  product  of  the  Mexican 
mines  up  to  the  year  1880  is  equal  to  $3,700,000,000  of 
silver.  We  should  remember,  however,  that  some  of  these 
mines  are  now  on  American  soil,  e.  g.,  those  of  California, 
New  Mexico,  and  Arizona.  The  yield  of  silver  for  1882 
can  be  roughly  estimated  at  $20,000,000,  while  that  of 
gold  amounts  to  about  $1,000,000.  f  Millions  of  dollars' 
worth  of  silver  have  long  been  and  are  now  being  exported 
to  Europe.  Humboldt  states,  in  his  work  on  New  Spain, 
that  two  thirds  of  the  silver  supply  of  the  whole  world  was 
annually  shipped  from  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz,  between  the 
years  1800  and  1812,  and  some  silver  was  also  sent  abroad 
from  Acapulco.  At  present  about  fourteen  millions'  worth 
of  this  metal  are  annually  exported  to  Europe.  (Compare 
with  chapter  on  commerce.) 

The  supply  of  silver  in  Mexico  is.  now  derived  chiefly 
from  the  mines  of  Guanajuato,  Zacatecas,  Sombrerete,  Ca- 
torce, and  Pachuca.  Gold  generally  occurs  in  small  quan- 
tities with  the  silver-ores.  But  most  of  it  is  lost  in  the 
process  of  reduction. 

According  to  Humboldt,  the  joint  yield  of  the  Zacatecas 
and  Guanajuato  mines  from  1548  to  1600  was  $2,000,000, 
and  from  IGOO  to  1690  it  was  $3,000,000.     The  ores  at  the 

*  At  the  time  of  Humboldt's  visit. 

f  The  production  of  the  mines  of  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal  year 
of  1882-'83  was  $47,000,000  of  silver  and  $32,000,000  of  gold,  given  in 
round  numbers. 


78  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

former  locality,  as  well  as  at  Tasco  and  Catorce,  are  poor  in 
gold  ;  wliile  those  of  the  latter  town,  and  also  at  Guadalupe 
y  Calvo,  are  rich  in  their  j)ercentage  of  the  same  metal. 

Perhaps  the  two  most  remarkable  mineral  veins  of  North 
America,  excepting  the  famous  Comstock  lode  of  Nevada, 
are  the  veta  madre  of  Guanajuato  and  the  veta  grande  of 
Zacatecas.  These  veins  have  been  worked  for  about  three 
hundred  years.  ( Vide  section  on  the  Mexican  Central  Eail- 
road,  for  description.)  The  region  adjoining  these  mining 
towns  is  an  elevated  desert,  similar  to  the  environs  of  Vir- 
ginia City  in  Nevada. 

Next  to  argentiferous  deposits  in  importance  are  the 
immense  beds  of  iron,  which  consist  principally  of  the  ox- 
ides called  magnetite  and  hematite.  The  well-known  Cerro 
del  Mercado,  in  the  State  of  Durango,  has  been  calculated  to 
contain  sixty  million  cubic  yards  of  iron-ore,  having  a  spe- 
cific weight  of  five  billion  quintals.  An  analysis  of  this  ore 
by  Mr.  M.  H.  Borje,  of  Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania,  gave 
66  per  cent  of  pure  metal.  There  are  other  vast  hills  of 
iron  in  Sonora,  near  Coalcoman,  in  Michoacan,  and  in  the 
central  part  of  the  State  of  Oaxaca. 

Lead-ores,  usually  in  the  form  of  galena  and  oftentimes 
argentiferous,  are  abundant  throughout  the  country. 

Copper,  either  native  or  as  oxide,  carbonate,  or  sulphide, 
is  mined  at  various  localities  in  Chihuahua  and  Oaxaca,  at 
the  towns  of  Mazapil  and  Jalapa,  and  near  the  volcano  of 
Jorullo. 

The  oxide  of  tin  is  found  in  veins  and  alluvial  beds  at 
Durango. 

Mercury  occurs  combined  with  sulphur,  i.  e.,  cinnahar, 
in  the  States  of  Queretaro,  San  Luis  Potosi,  Michoacan, 
Oaxaca,  Chihuahua,  and  Guanajuato.  Zinc-ores  are  met 
with  in  Chihuahua  ;  and  platinum,  antimony,  cobalt,  and 
nickel  come  from  the  same  State.  These  last-named  metals, 
however,  are  not  found  in  large  quantities. 


MINES,  79 

There  are  beds  of  coal  in  various  parts  of  Mexico,  but 
principally  in  the  States  of  Oaxaca,  Vera  Cruz,  Mexico, 
Puebla,  Nuevo  Leon,  Tamaulipas,  and  Sonora.  Anthracite 
of  good  quality  is  mined  in  the  latter  State,*  and  a  fair  qual- 
ity of  it  is  worked  in  the  northern  parts  of  Tamaulipas  and 
Nuevo  Leon.  Some  of  this  coal  is  burned  in  the  engines 
of  the  Mexican  National  Eailway.  Lignite  or  brown  coal 
occurs  in  many  localities,  but  it  is  not  used  to  any  extent. 
We  have  stated  elsewhere, f  that  coal  is  imported  in  large 
quantities,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of  fuel  near  the  lines  of 
the  railroads.  It  may  be  added  that  an  extensive  mine  of 
coal  would  be  of  more  value  to  Mexico  at  present  than  one 
of  gold. 

As  regards  the  cost  and  methods  of  mining  in  Mexico, 
it  may  be  remarked,  that  the  art  has  not  yet  attained  the 
high  degree  of  perfection  known  in  Europe  and  the  United 
States.  Humboldt  stated  in  1803,  that  subterranean  geom- 
etry was  mostly  unknown,  and  that,  as  a  rule,  the  means 
of  communication  between  contiguous  mines  were  badly 
arranged.  Millions  have  been  expended  in  developing  the 
mineral  wealth  of  Guanajuato  and  Zacatecas.  It  is  said 
that  the  Count  de  Valenciana  dug  three  pits  in  a  single 
mine  near  the  former  city,  at  the  cost  of  $1,700,000  {vide 
p.  366). 

Owing  to  the  low  price  of  labor  and  the  very  econom- 
ical methods  of  the  natives,  more  can  be  accomplished 
for  a  given  amount  of  money  at  present,  by  working  the 
metallic  mines  on  the  old  Mexican  plan,  than  by  the 
modern  and  improved  system.  ( Vide  chapter  on  labor  and 
wages. ) 

Thus  far,  few  shafts  have  been  sunk  to  a  greater  depth 
than  one  thousand  feet.  Steam-hoisting  works,  pumps, 
and  tramways  in  the  various  levels  of  the  mines  are  rarely 

*  See  Section  X  in  Part  Second. 
^  In  Section  II  of  Part  Second. 


80  GENERAL  INFOEMATIOK 

used.  Malacates,  or  large  horse-whims,  are  substituted  for 
the  former  ;  and  water  is  raised  in  large  skins  attached 
to  ropes.  The  peons  carry  pieces  of  ore  weighing  from 
one  hundred  to  two  hundred  pounds  on  their  backs  from 
the  "headings"  of  the  levels  to  the  main  shaft,  where  the 
mineral  is  hoisted  in  huge  baskets. 


Longitudinal  View  of  Timbered  Level. 

Iron  drills  of  domestic  manufacture  and  tipped  with 
steel  are  still  used  by  the  peons.  A  few  foreigners  are  em- 
ployed at  high  wages  in  the  mines  of  Chihuahua  and  the 
neighboring  States,  and  also  at  the  town  of  Pachuca,  but 
they  generally  occupy  positions  like  that  of  superintendent 
or  engineer.  American  mine-owners  in  Mexico  admit  that 
the  ''jackass"  mode  of  mining  of  the  natives  is  cheaper 
than  the  European  methods. 

The  Mexican  miners  are  not  much  annoyed  by  heat  nor 
by  water.  Humboldt  found  the  temperature  at  the  bottom 
of  the  Valenciana  mine,  then  1,681  feet  deep,  to  be  93° 
Fahr.     The  miners  descend  in  the  shafts,  either  by  means 


MINES.  81 

of  massive  stone  steps  that  have  been  used  for  ages,  as  in 
Guanajuato,  or  on  a  series  of  ladders,  as  at  Zacatecas. 

Peons  pick  the  ore  over  by  hand  at  the  surface  and  sep- 
arate tlie  gangue  with  small  hammers.  The  ore  is  then 
canned  to  the  reducing-mills  on  mule-back. 

Most  of  the  mines  and  mills  are  inclosed  by  high  walls, 
and  the  peons  are  searched  before  being  allowed  to  leave. 
It  is  very  common  to  conceal  valuable  fragments  of  gold  or 
silver-bearing  rock  in  the  clothing,  or  in  the  hair,  or  under 
the  arms,  of  the  miners.  (See  chapter  on  Guanajuato  in 
Section  V.)  The  argentiferous  ores  of  Mexico  have  been 
worked  by  the  patio,  or  cold  amalgamation  process,  for 
about  three  centuries.  Mule-power  is  used  almost  entirely 
in  the  haciendas  de  leneficios  or  reducing-mills.  *  ( Vide 
chapter  on  Guanajuato,  in  Section  V,  Part  Second,  for  a 
description  of  the  patio  process. ) 

Mines  in  Mexico  belong  to  individuals  and  not  to  the 
Government.  If  abandoned,  however,  they  revert  to  the 
State.  In  order  to  hold  a  mine,  the  owner  is  required  to 
work  it  during  four  months  of  the  year.  Should  the  pro- 
prietor neglect  to  observe  this  law,  the  property  is  "de- 
nounced," i.  e.,  escheats  to  the  State,  and  it  is  soon  adver- 
tised for  sale.  Sometimes  valuable  mines  can  be  purchased 
for  a  mere  song  at  a  Government  sale. 

Foreigners  intending  to  invest  in  Mexican  mines  should 
employ  a  competent  mining  engineer  to  examine  them,  and 
should  also  exercise  extreme  caution  in  dealing  with  the 
owners,  as  Mexicans  will  not  dispose  of  mining  property 
unless  they  can  make  a  very  good  bargain.  At  present  very 
few  mines  in  Mexico  are  paying  dividends. 

In  closing  this  chapter,  it  may  be  said  that,  if  the  tour- 
ist desires  to  visit  the  mines  of  the  Republic,  he  wiU  be 
treated  with  great  courtesy  by  the  superintendents  and 

*  One  steam-mill  with  improved  machinery  has  been  erected  at  Guana- 
juato. 


82  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

miners  generally.  The  morning  is  the  best  time  to  go 
underground. 

For  the  convenience  of  travelers,  we  give  a  brief  list  of 
mining  terms  : 

Socabon,  gallery  or  main  adit ;  tiro,  shaft ;  malacate, 
horse-whim  ;  escalas,  ladders  ;  pena  or  piedra,  rock ;  guija, 
quartz  ;  veta,  vein  ;  mineral,  ore ;  anclio,  wide  ;  angostay 
narrow ;  oro,  gold ;  plata,  silver ;  cohre,  cojDper ;  hierro, 
iron  ;  azogue,  quicksilver  ;  plomo,  lead  ;  estam,  tin ;  azulfre, 
sulphur ;  caliza,  limestone  ;  Ironce,,  pyrites. 

What  kind  of  rock  is  it  ?  Como  se  llama  esa  piedra? 
How  wide  is  the  vein  ?  Que  anchura  tieiie  la  veta  f  Ten 
inches  wide.  Diez  pulgadas  de  anclio.  How  deep  is  the 
shaft  ?  Que  profumlidad  tiene  el  tiro?  I  wish  to  see  the 
mine.  Quiero  ver  el  interior  de  esta  mina.  Can  I  enter  ? 
Puedo  yo  entrar  9 

Thanks,  gracios. 

For  further  information  on  the  metallic  resources  of 
Mexico,  consult  Humboldt's  work  on  New  Spain,  vol.  iii 
especially  ;  Ward's  Mexico ;  Whitney's  Metallic  Wealth  of 
the  United  States ;  and  Busto's  Estadistica  de  la  Repilblica 
Mexicana. 


XXV. 

Mineral  Springs. 

Mineral  springs  abound  on  the  table-land  of  Mexico. 
Perhaps  the  best-known  springs  are  at  the  city  of  Aguas- 
calientes,  Avhere  a  large  bathing  establishment  has  been 
erected.  Ojos  calientes,  or  hot  springs,  are  found  in  many 
places,  not  only  in  the  vicinity  of  the  volcanoes,  but  at 
great  distances  from  them.  These  places  are  not  as  yet 
used  extensively  as  resorts  for  invalids,  but  it  is  believed 
that  they  will  be  visited  for  this  purpose  when  rendered 
accessible  by  railroads. 


G'EOLOOY.  83 

XXVI. 
Geology. 

This  chapter  may  be  read  in  connection  with  that  on 
mines.  Much  has  been  written  by  Europeans  and  Ameri- 
cans on  the  geology  of  Mexico.  But,  interesting  as  the 
subject  is,  we  have  only  space  for  an  outline  of  the  for- 
mation and  physical  structure  of  the  country.  A  large 
part  of  Mexico  is  overlaid  by  igneous  rocks,  which  consist 
chiefly  of  trachyte,  feldspar  -  porphyry,  and  amygdaloidal 
basalt. 

In  the  Sierra  Madre,  the  metamorphic  rocks,  such  as 
granite,  gneiss,  and  clay-slate,  are  common.  The  great 
argentiferous  veins  frequently  occur  in  the  latter  rock,  al- 
though sometimes  in  porphyry,  e.  g.,  at  Real  del  Monte,  or 
in  talcose  slate,  e.  g.,  some  mines  at  Guanajuato. 

Limestone  is  found  at  Tasco  and  Orizaba.  It  is  ex- 
tensively quarried  at  the  latter  town.  The  same  rock 
constitutes  the  greater  part  of  the  eastern  branch  of  the 
Cordillera  between  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Monterey.  Ac- 
cording to  Dr.  Wislizenus,  the  limestone  at  Saltillo  be- 
longs to  the  Silurian  age.  The  lower  part  of  the  tierra 
caliente  consists  mostly  of  alluvial  soil,  although  in  a  few 
places  rocky  ridges  extend  to  the  coast,  e.  g.,  at  Aca- 
pulco. 

We  have  referred  to  the  localities  of  the  ores  of  the 
principal  metals  and  of  coal  in  the  chapter  on  mines. 
Deposits  of  nitre,  kaolin,  common  salt,  and  Glauber's  salt, 
or  sulphate  of  soda,  are  abundant  on  the  table-land.  Petro- 
leum occurs  plenteously  in  the  States  of  Vera  Cruz,  Puebla, 
Tabasco,  and  Oaxaca.  Sulphur  is  found  at  the  volcanoes, 
especially  those  of  Popocatepetl  and  Orizaba.  A  large  sup- 
ply is  now  obtained  from  the  former. 

It  is  said  that  Cortes's  warriors  descended  into  the  crater 


84  '     GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

of  Popocatepetl  to  procure  sulphur  for  the  manufacture  of 
gunpowder.  The  abundance  of  hot  springs  on  the  Mexi- 
can plateau  has  already  been  mentioned  (see  p.  83). 

The  volcanoes  are  joerhaps  the  most  interesting  features 
in  the  geology  of  Mexico  to  trayelers.  There  are  four 
active  *  volcanoes  in  the  Eepublic ;  but  no  eruption  has 
occurred  in  any  of  them  during  the  present  century.    Earth- 


TJte  Peak  of  Orizaba 

quakes  are  common  in  the  vicinity,  however,  and  soJfataras, 
fumaroles  emitting  hot  aqueous  vapor,  and  adjoining  warm 
springs,  indicate  that  these  volcanoes  are  still  in  a  semi- 
active  state. 

Beginning  on  the  western  coast,  the  Mexican  volcanoes 
are  :  Colima,  Jorullo,  Popocatepetl,  Iztaccihuatl,  Orizaba, 
and  Tuxtla.  The  heights  of  these  mountams  are  given  in 
Part  Second. 

Humboldt,  who  was  the  first  scientific  observer  to  make 
an  extensive  geological  reconnaissance  of   Mexico,  has  re- 

*  By  the  term  "  active  "  we  mean  those  volcanoes  in  which  an  eruption 
has  taken  place  within  the  memory  of  man. 


GEOLOGY.  85 

marked  that  the  volcanoes  just  named  lie  on  the  same  great 
vent  of  the  earth's  crust,  and  approximately  on  the  nine- 
teenth parallel  of  north  latitude  (vide  Cosmos,  vol.  v,  p. 
377,  et  seq.). 

The  most  important  geological  event  in  Mexico  since 
the  Spanish  Conquest  is  the  elevation  of  the  volcano  of 
Jorullo,  which  took  place  in  the  year  1759  (see  Section  IV, 
in  Part  Second,  for  a  long  account  of  it).  The  description 
of  Jorullo  explains,  in  a  general  way,  the  manner  in  which 
volcanic  mountains  are  formed. 

There  are  still  many  parts  of  the  Mexican  Eepuhlic 
where  the  hammer  of  the  geologist  has  not  yet  sounded, 
because  scientists  have  thus  far  confined  their  observations 
chiefly  to  the  vicinity  of  the  metallic  deposits  and  the  vol- 
canoes. A  great  variety  of  minerals  and  precious  stones  is 
found  in  Mexico.  Senor  Busto  states  that  the  number  of 
mineral  species  is  three  hundred  and  sixty-five,  the  majority 
of  which  occur  as  ores. 

We  have  not  sufficient  space  in  this  volume  to  give  the 
complete  list,  but  among  the  gems  of  the  country  we  may 
mention  the  ruby,  diamond,  opal,  topaz,  emerald,  garnet, 
agate,  carnelian,  and  tecali,  or  so-called  Mexican  onyx,  which 
is  a  variegated  calcite. 

For  further  information  on  the  geology  of  Mexico,  the 
reader  is  referred  to  Humboldt's  Cosmos  and  Neio  Spain  ; 
Busto's  Estadistica  de  la  RepilUica  Mexicana ;  Burkart's 
Axifentlialt  und  Reisen  in  Mexico  in  den  Jaliren  1825- 
1834  ;  Wislizenus,  Memoir  of  a  Tour  to  Northern  Mexico; 
and  various  articles  in  the  American  Journal  of  Science 
and  Arts,  in  the  Annales  des  Mines,  in  Poggendorff's  An- 
nalen,  and  several  other  French  and  German  scientific  peri- 
odicals. 


86  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

XXVII. 
Zoology. 

Owing  to  the  variety  of  climate  of  the  three  zones  of 
Mexico,  the/fmwfl  of  each  one  differs  greatly. 

Among  the  animals  indigenous  to  the  country,  large 
mammals  are  very  rare.  The  most  common  species  are  the 
black  bear,  or  oso  ;  the  deer,  or  venado  ;  the  Mexican  wolf, 
or  coyote  ;  the  marten,  or  camomiotte  ;  the  otter,  or  nutria  ; 
the  squirrel,  or  urion  ;  the  porcupine,  or  hoitzlacuatzin  ;  the 
skunk,  or  gatomontes  (of  which  there  are  four  varieties)  ; 
and  two  kinds  of  the  hare,  or  liebres.  One  of  these  was 
called  the  jackass-rabbit  by  the  United  States  troops  dur- 
ing the  Mexican  War. 

Several  other  rodents,  the  armadillo,  the  shrew-mole,  or 
topo,  and  the  opossum,  or  zorra  mocliiUra,  also  abound. 

Besides  the  domestic  fowls,  two  hundred  kinds  of  birds, 
including  eagles,  hawks,  ravens,  wild  turkeys,  and  buzzards, 
are  found  in  the  Republic. 

Reptiles  are  comparatively  scarce  on  the  table-land,  but 
are  abundant  in  the  tierra  tcm'plada  and  tierra  caliente. 
Turtles  {iortugas  de  mar)  are  common  in  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  the  chelonia  itnbricata,  which  furnishes  the  well- 
known  tortoise-shell  of  commerce,  occurring  near  the  east- 
ern coast. 

Alligators  {lagartos)  live  in  the  swamps  of  the  southern 
States. 

Lizards  (lagartijas)  arc  plentiful  in  the  hot  zone.  The 
iguana  {Lacerta  iguana,  Linnaeus)  sometimes  grows  to  a 
length  of  three  feet.  Another  species  of  lizard,  known  as 
the  alcatelepon,  being  about  fifteen  inches  long,  and  having 
a  rough  gray  skin,  is  found  in  the  country.  Its  bite  is 
painful,  though  not  dangerous. 

Snakes  {serpientes)  occur  in  the  various  zones,  but  prin- 


ZOOLOGY. 


87 


cipally  iu  the  tierra  caliente.  Poisonous  serpents  are  un- 
known at  an  elevation  above  seven  thousand  feet.  Both 
laud  and  fresh-water  snakes  exist  in  Mexico.     The  most 

common  species  are  the  rat- 
tlesnake, or  cascahel ;  the 
darting-snake,  or  saltillo  ; 
the  black-snake,  or  culebra; 
and  the  centoatl,  Avhoseskin 
shines  in  the  dark. 

Among  the  sirens,  the 
siredon,  or  axolotl,  having 
a  length  of  ten  to  fifteen 
inches,  is  found  in  the 
Lake  of  Texcoco,  and  in 
lagoons  of  the  adjoining 
mountains.  During  the 
war  of  the  Conquest,  the 
axolotl  was  so  plentiful  that 
Cortes  is  said  to  have  fed 
his  army  upon  it. 

The  many  fresh-water 
lakes  of   Mexico   are  well 
stocked  with  fish  (jjescado), 
the  principal  kinds  being 
the  bass,  eel,  trout,  white- 
fish,  and  hagre.     The  flesh 
of  the  latter  is  delicious  and 
is  extensively  used  for  food. 
The  waters  along  the  coast 
of  the  Republic  likewise  af- 
ford a  great  variety. 
The  red  mullet,  or  mujol,  is  a  favorite  article  of  food  among 
the  Mexicans.     It  was  this  kind  of  fish  that  was  carried  by 
swift-footed  couriers  from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  ancient  capital, 
a  distance  of  two  hundred  miles,  for  Montezuma's  table. 


88 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


There  are  infinite  numbers  of  sj^ecies  of  insects  in  the 
country.  Many  are  poisonous,  and  the  bites  of  others  are 
very  painful. 

Butterflies  {mariposas)  and  ants  {Jwrmigas)  exist  in 
great  variety. 

The  arriera,  or  carrying-ant,  is  very  injurious  to  agri- 
culture.    The  black  and  red  ant  are  abundant,  and  their 


1.  Cochineal  Insects  on  b^'anch  of  Cactus.    2.  Female  Insect.    3.  Male  Insect. 

sting  produces  much  pain.  There  are  six  kinds  of  bees 
{aiejas). 

Among  the  worms  may  be  mentioned  the  teocuilin, 
which  possesses  the  properties  of  the  cantharides,  and  the 
temahua7ii,  whose  bite  is  venomous. 

Ticks  (reznos),  mosquitoes  (mosqnitos),  jiggers  {neguas), 
and  moniquilcs,  are  common  in  the  tierra  calietite.  The 
latter  burrow  under  the  skin,  causing  great  suffering  (see 
p.  156). 

The  cochineal,  or  cocMiiilla,  is  found  extensively  in  Oa- 
xaca.     Fleas  {pulgas)  are  plentiful  throughout  the  country. 


BOTANY.  89 

The  silk-worm  [gusano  de  seda)  is  raised  in  the  south- 
ern states. 

Among  the  araclinida  of  Mexico  are  the  scorpion  {es- 
corpion  or  alacran)  and  tarantula,  which  are  found  in  all 
the  zones. 

The  centij)ede  {escolopendra  or  cientopies)  occasionally 
grows  to  a  length  of  eighteen  inches,  and  is  abundant  in 
the  tierra  templada  and  tierra  caliente. 

In  the  sub-kingdom  of  mollusca,  we  will  mention  only 
the  pearl-oyster,  which  occurs  on  the  Pacific  coast.  The 
pearl  (perla)  fishery  at  La  Paz,  in  Lower  California,  is 
of  some  importance.  The  fauna  of  Mexico  has  not  thus 
far  been  fully  described. 


XXVIII. 
Sotany. 

The  flo7'a  of  Mexico  consists  of  an  infinite  variety  of 
species,  on  account  of  the  configuration  of  the  country. 
There  is,  perhaps,  not  a  single  plant  known  to  science  that 
can  not  be  grown  in  the  Republic. 

The  three  zones  have  each  a  different  flora,  which  may 
be  described  as  follows  : 

In  the  tierra  caliente,  the  plants  consist  mostly  of  tropi- 
cal fruits,  cocoa-palms,  dye-woods,  sugar-cane,  indigo,  and 
cotton. 

In  the  tierra  templada,  there  are  bamboo  and  camphor- 
trees,  oaks,  cypresses,  coffee,  tobacco,  and  the  cereals. 

In  the  tierra  fria,  are  found  deciduous  trees,  and  co7ii- 
fera  like  the  pine,  spruce,  cedar,  and  fir,  and  the  various 
species  of  cactus. 

Wheat  and  a  few  vegetables  also  grow  in  the  latter 
region. 

Much  logwood  and  Brazil-wood  are  found  in  the  States 


90 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


of  Tabasco,*  Chiaj)as,  and  Oampeclie ;  and  in  Sinaloa,  ma- 
hogany, rose-wood,  and  ebony  are  abundant. 

There  are  extensive  forests  in  the  States  of  Sonora,  Chi- 
huahua, Durango,  Sinaloa,  Jalisco,  Michoacan,  and  Chiapas, 
and  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  volcanoes  of  Popocatepetl 
and  Orizaba.  We  have  referred  elsewhere  to  the  forests 
that  once  existed  in  the  valley  of  Mexico  {vide  Section  III 
of  Part  Second). 

During  the  winter  season  the  deciduous  trees  on  the 


Indigo  Plant  (Anil). 


table-land  shed  their  leaves,  which  are  replaced  by  a  new 
growth  within  a  few  weeks. 

There  is  a  great  variety  of  fruits  in  the  tierra  caliente, 
among  which  are  many  species  which  are  rarely  seen  m 
temperate  climates,  such  as  the  grtmadita,  mamey,  and 
chirimoya. 

*  The  ek,  caoba,  acum,  ciiano,  chimai/,  chulul,  copal,  and  other  woods 
grow  in  the  State  of  Tabasco. 


AGRICULTURE. 


91 


The  most  abundant  fruits  are  oranges,  limes,  bananas, 
and  pineapples. 

Flowers  are  cheap  and  plentiful  at  all  seasons.     Some 
species  bloom  on  the  great  plateau.     Dahlias  and  roses  are 
most  common   in  the    parks 
and  gardens  of  the  cities. 

The  country  possesses  many 
other  beautiful  flowering  plants 
that  are  known  only  to  Euro- 
peans in  the  botanic  gardens, 
such  as  the  clavel,  jlorijpondio, 
and  azucena. 

We  may  sum  up  the  flora 
of  Mexico  as  follows  :  There 
are  fifty-six  kinds  of  building- 
woods  and  twenty-one  kinds 
of  "  cabinet  "-wood  ;  four  va- 
rieties of  gum  and  three  of 
resin  ;  twelve  kinds  of  forage ; 
one  hundred  species  of  odor- 
iferous flowers,  and  fifty-two 
of  cereals  and  vegetables  ;  eighty-seven  kinds  of  fruit,  and 
one  hundred  and  thirteen  species  of  medicinal  plants. 

There  are  in  all  ten  thousand  known  families  of  plants, 
many  of  which  are  of  no  economical  importance.  The  prin- 
cipal trees  and  shrubs  of  the  country  are  referred  to  in  the 
itineraries  of  Part  Second. 


Brazil-  Wood — Leaves,  Flower, 
and  Fruit. 


XXIX. 

Agriculture. 

AccoEDiXG  to  Prescott,*  agriculture  in  the  Aztec  Em- 
pire was  in  the  same  state  of  advancement  as  the  other  arts 

*  Conquest  of  Mexico,  vol.  i,  p.  134. 


92 


GENERAL  INF  OEM  ATI  OK 


of  social  life.  In  the  natural  openings  of  the  primeval 
forest,  or  in  a  fertile  strij?  of  interval,  the  Aztecs  planted 
beans  and  Indian  corn. 

All,  except  the  nobles  and  soldiery,  cultivated  the  soil, 
the  work  being  done  chiefly  by  the  men. 

The  more  important  branches  of  husbandry  were  the 
culture  of  the  banana,  which  was  easily  grown  and  gave 
exuberant  returns ;  the  production  of  cliocolatl  from  the 
cocoa-palm  ;  the  cultivation  of  the  vanilla,  which  was  con- 
fined to  a  small  strip  of  the 
sea-coast;  and  the  plant- 
ing of  maize  and  the  ma- 
guey. Prescott  calls  the 
latter  ''a  miracle  of  na- 
ture," on  account  of  the 
large  number  of  articles 
that  are  made  from  it. 
The  Aztecs  pressed  the 
stalks  of  Indian  corn  to 
obtain  the  sap  for  sugar. 
There  is  no  evidence  that 
the  tillage  of  the  country 
was  materially  improved 
by  the  Spanish  Conquest. 
Nevertheless,  it  must 
be  admitted  that  agricul- 
ture is  still  in  its  infancy  in  the  yarious  parts  of  Mexico. 
This  is  due  to  the  persistency  of  the  'peons  in  making  use  of 
the  rude  implements  of  their  forefathers.  Fortunately,  an 
easily  worked  and  fertile  soil  generally  exists  in  the  Eepub- 
lic.  Frost  occurs  only  on  the  table-land,  and  is  rare  in 
many  portions  of  it.  All  kinds  of  cereals,  vegetables,  and 
fruits  are  cultivated  in  the  country,  but  the  absence  of 
facilities  for  cheap  transportation  in  some  of  the  States  is 
a  great  drawback. 


Tlie  Vanilla  Plant. 


AGRICULTURE.  93 

The  products  of  tlie  three  geograjihical  divisions  of 
Mexico  may  be  brieJSy  stated  as  follows  :  In  the  hot  region, 
cotton,  vanilla,  indigo,  rice,  hemp,  sarsaparilla,  peppers, 
bene-seed,  anise-seed,  caoutchouc,  cocoa,  cassia,  oranges. 


India-rubber  Plant  (Ilule). 

bananas,  and  other  tropical  fruits  gi'ow  to  perfection.  Sev- 
eral of  these  plants  thrive  without  tillage.  In  the  temper- 
ate region,  coffee,  sugar,  tobacco,  cotton,  brown  beans,* 
peas,  and  a  few  other  vegetables,  and  the  fruits  of  north- 
ern latitudes  are  cultivated.  In  the  cold  region,  the  cereals, 
the  maguey,  or  aloe,  and  the  hardy  vegetables,  as  potatoes, 
carrots,  beans,  etc.,  are  found.     (  Vide  chapter  on  botany.) 

Wheat  f  grows  at  as  high  an  elevation  as  8,500  feet  in 
the  latitude  of  the  capital ;  and  maize  and  the  maguey  may 
be  cultivated  at  nearly  the  same  altitude. 

The  crops  in  Mexico  are  dej)endent  partly  upon  rain- 

*  Brown  beans,  maize,  and  pepper  grow  in  all  the  States. 
f  Wheat  grows  in  all  but  five  Slates. 


94  GENERAL  INFORMATIOK 

fall  and  partly  upon  irrigation.  North  of  the  twentieth 
parallel,  irrigation  is  necessary  on  the  table-land.  In  the 
southern  States  the  rains  are  generally  limited  to  one  con- 
tinuous season,  which  varies  from  five  to  seven  months  in 
the  year.  As  in  other  tropical  latitudes,  a  deluging  rain 
oftentimes  does  more  harm  than  good  to  the  growing  crops. 

Eeferring  to  this  important  subject,  Humboldt  has  re- 
marked in  his  work  on  New  Spain,  vol.  ii,  page  455  : 
*' Were  the  soil  of  Mexico  watered  by  more  frequent  rains, 
it  would  be  one  of  the  most  fertile  countries  cultivated 
by  man  in  either  hemisi^here. "  The  prosperity  of  New 
Spain  depends  upon  the  proportion  of  dry  and  wet  season. 
The  farmer,  of  course,  takes  advantage  of  the  rainy  sea- 
son, and  in  the  northern  and  central  States  he  sows  in 
May  and  reaps  in  October.  Two  crops  of  wheat  and  In- 
dian corn  are  grown  annually  in  various  sections  of  the 
tierra  templada  and  on  the  central  table-land.  The  sec- 
ond crop  is,  however,  sometimes  destroyed  by  a  j)remature 
frost.  In  the  States  of  Vera  Cruz,  Oaxaca,  Guerrero, 
Tabasco,  Mexico,  and  Jalisco,  tliree  crops  of  maize  are  cul- 
tivated in  a  single  year  !  They  are  called  respectively  the 
riego,  temporal,  and  tonalmile. 

As  irrigation  {riego)  is  necessary  for  7nore  than  one  half 
of  the  surface  of  the  country,  let  us  now  consider  this  sub- 
ject. In  the  Aztec  Empire  acequias,  or  irrigating  ditches, 
were  used.  The  Spaniards  were  agreeably  surprised  to  find 
a  system  equal  to  that  which  the  Moors  had  established  in 
the  Iberian  Peninsula.  The  plan  of  watering  the  soil  by 
artificial  channels,  however,  is  at  present  limited  to  a  com- 
paratively small  portion  of  the  arable  land  in  the  country. 
In  order  to  increase  the  annual  yield  of  grain  and  vege- 
tables, the  Mexicans  should  adopt  the  system  of  tanks 
which  has  been  in  use  so  long  in  British  India. 

Water-companies  should  be  organized  for  this  purpose, 
and  the  huge  ravines,  or  larrancas,  of  the  sierra  should  be 


AGRICULTURE.  95 

dammed  up  for  the  storage  of  an  abundant  supply  of  water 
for  seasons  of  drought. 

The  soil  of  Mexico  might  be  caused  to  yield  a  hundred- 
fold more  grain  than  is  now  produced,  and  the  Republic 
eventually  enabled  to  compete  with  the  States  of  California 
and  Oregon  in  exporting  the  cereals  to  Europe.*  Grain 
has  recently  (1883)  been  sent  from  California  to  New  Or- 
leans, La.,  via  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad.  The  cereals 
of  Northern  Mexico  might  be  transported  to  the  sea-board 
by  the  same  route.  This  subject  is  worthy  of  the  attention 
of  foreign  capitalists. 

As  regards  the  amount  of  cereals  cultivated  within  a 
given  area  in  Mexico,  it  may  be  remarked  that  the  propor- 
tion of  grain  to  seed  varies  from  forty  to  one  to  three  hun- 
dred to  one.  An  average  yield  would  be  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  to  one.  In  very  fertile  land  one  fanega 
(about  three  bushels)  of  seed  will  produce  four  hundred 
fanegas  of  maize.  Humboldt  has  remarked  that  the  finest 
soil  on  the  plateau  is  to  be  found  in  the  rich  plains  lying 
between  the  cities  of  San  Juan  del  Rio  and  Leon. 

It  is  not  usual  in  Mexico  to  estimate  a  crop  of  grain  by 
the  number  of  bushels  to  the  acre.  In  response  to  inquiries 
made  in  various  States,  the  author  was  told  that  the  yield 
of  maize  varied  from  twenty  to  forty  bushels  to  an  acre. 
The  highest  production  is  seventy  bushels.  No  figures  as 
to  the  proportionate  amount  of  wheat  and  barley  yielded 
could  be  obtained.     Next  to  the  cereals,  the  great  staple 

*  Notwithstanding  her  immense  mineral  resources,  California  has  since 
1876,  with  the  aid  of  improved  agricultural  implements  and  acequias,  yielded 
more  in  agricultural  products  than  from  her  mines.  This  State  resembles 
Mexico  in  soil  and  in  outline.  According  to  Seiior  M.  Romero,  more  wheat 
can  be  cultivated  in  Sonora  than  in  California.  And  it  may  be  added  that 
the  same  remark  will  apply  to  the  Mexican  States  bordering  on  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  as  well  as  to  those  of  Guanajuato,  Queretaro,  Hidalgo,  Mexico,  More- 
los,  and  Puebla.  Indian  corn,  barley,  and  brown  beans  are  also  grown 
extensively  in  several  of  these  States. 


96 


GENERAL  INFORMATION: 


products  of  Mexico  are  coffee,  sugar,  tobacco,  cocoa,  and 
cotton.     All  except  the  last-named  are  exported. 

Coffee  {cafe)  was  introduced  into  the  West  Indies  about 
the  year  1714,  and  was  thence  advanced  to  New  Spain  at 
the  beginning  of  the  joresent  century.  It  grows  best  in  the 
temjaerate  zone,  and  in  the  shade  of  the  forest.  It  is  now 
cultivated  in  eight  States — viz..  Vera  Cruz,  Oaxaca,  Chia- 
pas, Tabasco,  Guerrero,  Colima,  Michoacan,  and  Morelos. 
The  State  of  Vera  Cruz  yields  the  largest  quantity.     Co- 


TJie  Coffee  Plant. 

lima  ranks  next,  and  produces  the  finest  variety  of  the  article. 
It  rivals  the  choicest  Mocha  brand.  There  is  a  great  demand 
in  foreign  countries  for  Mexican  coffee ;  and  doubtless  the 
annual  production  will  soon  be  doubled  if  not  quadrupled. 
Sugar-cane  {cafia  de  azucar)  is  grown  extensively  in  all 
but  seven  States  of  the  Republic.  The  greatest  amount  of 
sugar  comes  from  Morelos,  and  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz 
ranks  second.  Irrigation  is  necessary  for  its  successful  cul- 
tivation in  some  States.     Sugar-cane  grows  both  in  the 


AGRICULTURE.  97 

tierra  caliente  and  tierra  templada  up  to  an  elevation  of 
6,000  feet.  In  the  latter,  eighteen  months  are  required 
for  the  crop  to  mature,  wliile  in  the  former  the  time  varies 
from  nine  to  twelve  months.  The  sugar-cane  of  Mexico  is 
of  three  kinds — viz.,  those  of  Castile,  Havana,  and  Otaite. 

At  the  time  of  Humboldt's  visit,*  about  14,000,000 
pounds  of  sugar  were  exported  annually.  In  1881  the 
amount  did  not  exceed  500,000  pounds. 

Tobacco  is  indigenous  to  Mexico.  Indeed,  it  derives  its 
name  from  the  town  of  Tobaco  in  Yucatan.  The  culture 
of  it  was  formerly  restricted  by  law  to  the  vicinity  of  Ori- 
zaba, f  At  present  it  grows  chiefly  in  the  States  of  Vera 
Cruz,  Tabasco,  Campeche,  Yucatan,  Oaxaca,  Chiapas,  and 
Jalisco.     {Vide  chapter  on  cigars  and  tobacco.) 

Cocoa  {cacao)  is  found  in  the  States  of  Tabasco,  Chiapas, 
Oaxaca,  Guerrero,  and  Colima.  The  first-named  State  pro- 
duces the  largest  amount,  the  culture  of  cocoa  being  the 
principal  branch  of  its  agricultural  industry.  Chiapas 
ranks  second,  and  but  little  of  this  article  grows  in  the 
remainder  of  the  Republic. 

Cotton  {algodon)  is  cultivated  in  about  half  the  States. 
Yucatan  produces  the  largest  quantities,  and  Durango 
ranks  next.  The  finest  cotton  comes  from  the  Pacific  coast 
States  and  from  Vera  Cruz.  It  is  also  grown  extensively  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  lagoon  of  Tlahualila  (which  is  familiarly 
called  the  "  laguna  country"),  and  in  Southern  Chihuahua. 
According  to  Senor  Busto,  an  acre  of  land  will  yield  about 
2,000  pounds  of  cotton  as  an  average.  J  It  thrives  up  to  an 
elevation  of  five  thousand  feet. 

In  1803  the  annual  exportation  of  cotton  amounted  to 

*  1803. 

f  In  1800  two  million  pounds  of  tobacco  grew  in  the  districts  of  Ori- 
zaba and  Cordoba. 

X  In  the  southern  part  of  the  United  States,  950  pounds  of  cotton  to 
the  acre  is  a  fair  average. 
6 


98 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


700,000  pounds.  At  present  it  is  not  exported,  nor  is  it  cul- 
tivated in  quite  sufficient  quantities  for  home  consumption. 
In  180G  Mexican  cotton-seeds  were  introduced  into  Mis- 
sissippi by  Walter  Burling,  Esq.,  and  are  supposed  to  have 
improved  the  character  of  the  staple  thus  grown. 


Coooanut  Palm. 

Vanilla  is  produced  in  the  States  of  Vera  Cruz  and 
Oaxaca.  According  to  Humboldt,  Europe  received  its  en- 
tire supply  of  this  commodity  from  Mexico  previous  to  1812. 

Bananas  grow  luxuriantly  in  the  tierra  caliente,  and  the 
maguey,  or  aloe,  is  cultivated  extensively  on  the  table-land. 
It  is  said  that  a  plantation  of  the  latter  pays  better  as  an 
investment  than  any  other  kind  of  crop  in  Mexico.  The 
maguey  will  grow  in  a  soil  that  is  almost  barren.  It  ma- 
tures in  eight  years  in  the  States  of  Puebla  and  Mexico  ; 
and  in  San  Luis  Potosi  it  becomes  ripe  in  five  years.  This 
plant  will  not  blossom  in  northern  climes.* 

*  There  is  a  popular  belief  that  the  maguey  in  temperate  latitudes  will 
reach  maturity  once  in  a  hundred  years.    Hence  the  name  "  century-plant." 


AORICULTURE.  99 

With  tlie  improved  processes  of  tillage,  including  the 
use  of  modern  implements,  extensive  tanks  and  irrigating 
ditches,  all  of  which  are  likely  to  be  introduced  at  an  early 
day,  the  staple  products  of  Mexico  will  of  course  be  in- 
creased many  fold. 

The  culture  of  sugar  and  tobacco  is,  and  will  doubtless 
continue  to  be,  more  profitable  than  that  of  the  cereals. 
The  cultivation  of  the  tropical  and  semi-tropical  fruits 
will  also  be  carried  on  far  more  extensively  than  at  present 
throughout  the  tierra  caliente,  and  iu  the  lower  parts  of 
the  tierra  templada. 

A  recent  correspondent  of  the  Chicago  Tribune  describes 
the  Mexican  farmer  as  follows  :  "  On  the  ranch  or  vil- 
lage home  of  the  'greaser' Mexican  everything  bears  the 
stamp  of  negligence  and  shiftlessness.  Their  gaunt,  sharp- 
nosed,  long-legged,  and  tan-colored  hogs  share  with  their 
owners  in  the  comforts  of  the  family  residence.  No  fences 
except  brush  surround  their  fields.  Generally  there  are 
none.  They  raise  just  sufficient  wheat,  barley,  beans,  and 
chili  (red  peppers)  to  meet  their  absolute  needs.  They 
thrash  their  crops  upon  bare,  smooth  ground  by  di'iving 
flocks  of  goats  over  them  and  washing  in  the  nearest 
stream.  They  often  plow  with  a  crooked  stick,  and  the 
hoe  is  their  scythe,  sickle,  and  reaper.  Even  their  hay  is 
cut  with  a  hoe.  They  as  a  rule  live  in  villages  and  culti- 
vate small  fields  upon  their  outskirts.  Living  as  they  do, 
and  possessing  a  soil  which  under  irrigation  is  wonderfully 
productive,  they  require  but  little  ground  to  cultivate." 

Agricultural  implements  are  admitted  free  of  duty 
{vide  p.  57).  American  reapers,  mowers,  plows,  etc.,  have 
been  introduced  on  the  ranches  of  the  northern  and  central 
part  of  the  table-land.  Time  will,  however,  be  required  to 
induce  the  peons  to  abandon  their  rude  ancestral  tools  that 
simply  scratch  the  ground.  Labor  is  abundant  at  three  reales 
(37^  cents)  a  day.     It  is  hardly  necessary  to  remark  that 


100 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


the  land  will  be   best   developed  by  the  immigration  of 
skilled  farmers  from  Euroj^e  and  the  United  States. 

The  following  table,  copied  from  Busto's  Estadistica  cle 
la  Repiihli'ca  Mexicana,  gives  a  list  of  the  agricultural  pro- 
ductions of  the  Kepublic.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  propor- 
tion of  maize  is  about  four  fifths  of  the  total  joroduct,  while 
that  of  wheat  is  but  one  twentieth.  Oats  are  rarely  culti- 
vated, and  rye  not  at  all.* 


PEODUCTS. 


Chickling  vetch  (a  kind  of  pea). 

Cotton 

Bene-seed 

Canary-seed 

Anise-seed 

Indigo 

Rice 

Sugar  and  molasses 

Cocoa 

Coffee 

Barley 

Cumin-seeds 

Peppers  of  all  kinds 

Brown  beans  {frijolcs) 

Peas 

Beans 

Hemp 

Ixtle  (a  kind  of  hemp) 

Lentils 

Maize  (Indian  corn) 

Potatoes 

Straw 

Tobacco  

Wheat 

Vanilla 

Sarsaparilla 


Total 14,452,954,787 


Pounds. 


27,831,012 

65,391,072 

6,710,308 

2,467,025 

2,477,090 

422,941 

33,366,493 

154,199,210 

3,174,605 

17,514,877 

511,134,850 

225,141 

119,OS1,908 

508,656.233 

25,277,928 

34,589,634 

88,176,000 

4,910,158 

4,625,775 

1,681,140,666 

23,227,024 

431,740,320 

16,510,980 

747,349,004 

121,248 

1,073,648 


Value  in  Mexican 
dollars. 


643,283 
6,605,831 

153,643 
67,410 

127,268 

358,002 
1,248,244 
8,761,317 
1,140,050 
2,060,382 
4,403,742 
23,500 
4,196,482 
8,406,211 

471,075 

477,610 
3,352,000 

154,053 

83,043 

112,164,424 

457,592 

1,962,879 

2,006,153 

17,436.345 

651,958 

149,489 


177,451,986 


*  Compared  with  the  United  States,  the  annual  corn-crop  of  Mexico  is 
one  ninth  of  that  of  the  sister  Republic ;  the  wheat-crop  is  one  forty-first, 
and  the  cotton-crop  is  but  one  forty-fifth.  Maize  being  the  principal  arti- 
cle of  food,  the  failure  of  the  crop  causes  great  suffering,  as  the  poorer 
classes  must  then  subsist  on  unripe  fruit,  berries,  and  roots. 


■  MAPS  AN^D  SURVEYS.  101 

Maps  and  Surveys. 

BAEOif  VOH  Humboldt  was  the  first  scientific  traveler 
who  made  extensive  astronomical  observations  and  baro- 
metric measurements  in  Mexico.  He  determined  the  lati- 
tude and  longitude,  and  the  elevations  of  various  cities  and 
towns  throughout  the  country.  He  also  published  charts 
and  sketch-maps  in  his  immortal  work  on  New  Spain. 

No  complete  topographical  survey  of  Mexico  has  ever 
been  made,  and  we  need  not  say  that  it  would  cost  far  more 
than  the  National  Government  could  afford  to  pay  in  the 
present  state  of  the  finances. 

The  best  atlas  of  Mexico  has  been  compiled  by  Seflor  A. 
Garcia  Cubas,  being  entitled  El  Atlas  metodico  de  la  Geo- 
grafia  de  la  Repilblica  Mexicana. 

The  Mexican  National  Eailway  Company  has  published 
a  large  map,  and  Rand,  McNally  &  Co.,  of  Chicago,  and 
Colton,  of  New  York,  have  issued  pocket-maps,  of  the  Re- 
public. 

Several  excellent  maps  have  been  prepared  in  France 
and  Germany. 

A  good  topographical  map  is  published  by  Victor  De- 
bray. 

A  map  of  the  heart  of  Mexico,  including  the  mountains 
of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl,  has  been  printed  in  New 
York,  and  is  on  sale  in  the  shops  of  the  Mexican  capital. 

A  complete  map,  on  a  large  scale,  will  soon  be  a  possi- 
bility, considering  the  extensive  surveys  of  the  various  rail- 
roads throughout  the  country.  The  boundary-lines  of 
the  public  lands  have  never  been  determined,  and  the  lack 
of  accurate  surveys  is  sadly  felt  at  the  present  time.  Dur- 
ing the  Spanish  domination  the  grants  to  individuals  were 
practically  unlimited,  as  the  grantees  took  possession  of 


102  GENERAL  INFOBMATIOK 

immense  tracts  of  land  without  defining  the  metes  and 
bounds.  •    ■         '-- r  .'  °',  °  ,,:•••  V -', 

It  is  to  be  presumed  that  the  Federal  Government  will 
authorize  a  general  survey  of  their  public  lands  at  an  early 
day.  

XXXI. 
Stock-Raising, 

SooN"  after  the  Spanish  Conquest,  horned  cattle,  horses, 
donkeys,  sheep,  and  hogs  were  exported  in  large  numbers 
to  Mexico  from  the  mother-country.  At  the  present  time 
more  attention  is  devoted  to  rearing  horses,  mules,  and 
donkeys  than  to  other  animals.  The  Mexican  horse  is  of 
small  stature,  but  possesses  great  endurance,  and  resembles 
the  Arabian  breed.  The  mules  in  Mexico  are  inferior  in 
size  to  those  of  the  United  States,  but  are  said  to  be  capable 
of  doing  more  work  than  the  latter.  Donkeys  were  intro- 
duced into  New  Spain  by  the  priesthood,  to  take  the  place 
of  the  porters  for  carrying  merchandise.  (See  chapter  on 
labor  and  wages.)  Cattle  and  sheep  may  be  raised  advan- 
tageously in  most  of  the  States  of  the  Eepublic.  The 
northern  States,  especially  Chihuahua,  afford  the  best  graz- 
ing-land.  Several  English  comjjanies  have  recently  pur- 
chased large  stock-ranges  in  Tamaulipas,  Nuevo-Leon,  and 
Sonora. 

Excellent  pasturage  may  be  found  in  the  valleys  of 
Toluca  and  Orizaba.  The  former  is  noted  for  a  sujierior 
breed  of  hogs.  The  greater  part  of  the  region  that  is  used 
for  grazing  lies  on  the  table-land.  Most  of  the  arable  land 
in  the  tierra  caliente  and  tierra  templada  is  employed  for 
agricultural  purposes.  The  haciendas  of  El  Salado  and 
Cedres,  in  the  central  part  of  Mexico,  are  among  the  largest 
stock-ranches  in  the  Eepublic.  Artificial  ponds  and  tanks 
for  watering  animals  are  common  throughout  the  country. 


WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES.  103 

Cattle-raising  bids  fair  to  become  an  important  industry 
in  Northern  Mexico  at  an  early  day.  The  mildness  of  the 
winters  admits  of  the  stock  feeding  on  the  pastures,  and 
there  is  no  danger  of  losing  the  herd  by  a  snow-storm. 
The  natives  are  good  herdsmen.  It  may  be  remarked, 
however,  that  marauding  bands  of  Indians  occasionally 
make  raids  on  the  stock-ranches,  involving  great  loss  to 
the  owners.  Ranches  are  usually  sold  by  the  sitio,  which 
is  equivalent  to  4,428  acres.  It  is  said  that  several  large 
cattle-ranches  in  Northern  Mexico  are  for  sale  at  pres- 
ent.    (  Vide  next  chapter.) 


XXXII. 
Weights  and  Measures. 

The  French  metric  system  of  weights  and  measures  has 
been  adopted  in  the  Eepublic  of  Mexico,  but  in  the  rural 
districts  the  inhabitants  have  not  done  away  with  the  old 
system  (although  it  is  no  longer  the  legal  one),  of  which 
we  give  a  sketch. 

MEXICAlSr   LAXD-MEASURES. 
(Translated  from  the  Ordcnanzas  de  Ticrrcis  y  Aguas.) 

The  Mexican  vara  is  the  same  as  the  vara  of  Castile,  and 
is  divided  into  thirds  or  foot-fourths,  sixths,  and  thirty- 
sixth  inches.     It  equals  33^  inches,  American  measure. 

Fifty  Mexican  varas  make  a  measure  called  a  cordel. 

A  Mexican  league  contains  100  cordels,  or  5,000  varas. 

The  league  is  divided  into  halves  and  quarters.  The 
half-league  contains  2,500  varas. 

Sitio  do  Ganado  Mayor  (sitio,  a  farm  for  raising  cattle). 
— The  form  of  a  sitio  de  estancia  de  ganado  mayor  is  a 
square  whose  sides  measure  5,000  Mexican  varus.  The 
area  of  a  sitio  is  25,000,000  square  varas,  or  4,428  acres. 


104  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Criadero  de  Ganado  Mayor  (place  for  breeding  animals). 
— It  is  a  square  equal  to  a  fourth  part  of  a  sitio  de  ganado 
mayor,  whose  sides  measure  2,500  varas,  and  contains  an 
area  of  6,250,000  square  varas. 

Sitio  de  Ganado  Menor  (farm  for  raising  sheep  or  goats). 
— The  form  of  a  sitio  de  estancia  de  ganado  menor  is  a 
square  whose  sides  measure  3,333^  varas.  Its  area  contains 
11,111,111^  square  varas. 

Criadero  de  Ganado  lienor. — It  is  a  square  whose  sides 
measure  l,66Gf  varas,  and  its  area  contains  2,777,777|- 
square  varas. 

Caialleria  de  Tierra  (33^  acres  American  measure). — 
The  form  of  a  cahalleria  de  tierra  is  a  rectangular  parallelo- 
gram whose  north  or  small  side  contains  552  varas,  and 
whose  greatest  length  is  1,104  varas.  Its  area  contains  609,- 
408  square  varas. 

Media  Cahalleria  de  Tierra. — It  is  a  square  whose  side 
measures  552  varas,  and  contains  304,704  square  varas. 

Suerte  de  Tierra  (lot  of  ground — a  chance). — It  is  the 
fourth  part  of  a  cahalleria  de  tierra,  and  the  same  figure, 
whose  long  side  measures  552  varas,  and  276  in  width.  It 
contains  152,352  square  varas. 

The  Cahalleria  de  Tierra  is  also  divided  into  twelve 
fanegas  of  good  seed-oats.  The  fanega  is  equal  to  three 
American  bushels  or  a  superficies  of  8*5624  American  acres. 

Solar  de  Tierra  (ground  on  which  a  house  is  built — 
town-lot). — Any  parcel  of  land  less  than  a  suerte. 

Solar  para  Casas  (for  houses,  mills,  and  markets). — It 
is  a  square  of  50  varas — 2,500  square  varas. 

Fundo  Legal  (a  piece  of  ground  which  is  cultivated ; 
town  site). — It  is  a  tract  of  land  whose  form  is  a  square  of 
1,200  varas  on  each  side,  and  contains  an  area  of  1,440,000 
square  varas. 

Porcion. — Porcion  is  a  measure  sometimes  used.  It  is 
a  tract  of  land  1,000  varas  wide  and  16,000  varas  long. 


WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES.  105 

Labor  (a  cultivated  field). — A  square  containing  1,000,- 
000  square  varas,  or  177  acres. 

Texas  Measure. — League  and  labor,  20,000,000  square 
varas,  or  4,605  acres. 

To  find  the  number  of  acres  in  a  given  number  of  square 
varas,  divide  by  5,046,  fractions  rejected. 

THE    ENGLISH     AND     FRENCH    SYSTEMS    OF     WEIGHTS    AND 
MEASURES   COMPARED. 

The  unit  of  the  metric  or  French  system  of  weights  and 
measures  is  the  metre,  which  is  equal  to  39*37  inches. 

Tlie  Measures  of  Length  are : 

1  millimetre  =  -03937  incli. 

1  centimetre  =  -3937       " 

1  decimetre  =  3"937  inches. 

1  metre  =  39-37           " 

1  decametre  =  32-809  feet. 

1  hectometre  =  19-8842  rods. 

1  kilometre  =  -6213  mile. 

1  mj-riametre  =  6-2138  miles. 

Measures  of  Surface. 

1  square  centimetre  =          -155    square  inch. 

1  square  decimetre  =      15-5        square  inches. 

1  square  metre  or  |^  j  10-764    square  feet. 

1  centare                 )  (1-96      square  yard. 

1  square  decametre  or  )                _  j     3-954    square  rods. 

1  are  j                ~  \      -0247  acre. 

1  square  hectometre,  or  1  hectare  =        2-471    acres. 

1  square  kilometre  =          -3861  square  mile. 

Measures  of  Volume. 

1  cubic  centimetre  =  -061    cubic  inch. 

1  cubic  decimetre  or  )  _  j     -0353  " 

1  litre  I  "  1  1-0567  liquid  quart. 

1  cubic  metre,  or  1  stere  =  35-3165  cubic  feet. 


106 


GENERAL  INFOEMATION. 


The  litre  is  the 

dry  measures,  and 
metre. 

1  centilitre  = 

1  decilitre  = 

1  litre  = 

1  decalitre  = 

1  hectolitre  = 


Measures  of  Capacity. 

unit  of  capacity,  both  of  liquid  and  of 
is  equal  in  volume  to  one  cubic  deci- 


1  kilometre,  or  stere 
1  inyrialitre 


Dry  measure. 

=        "61    cubic  inch 
=      6'10    cubic  inches 
=        -908  quart 
=      9-081  quarts 
=      2-8o7  bushels 
_( 28-37    bushels 
~\    1-308  cubic  yard 
=  283-72  bushels 


Liquid  measure. 

•338  fluid  oz. 

•845  gill. 

1^0567  quart. 

2-64175  gallons. 
26-4175 

264-175  " 


=2,641-75 


Measures  of  Weight. 

The  gramme  is  the  unit  of  weight,  and  is  equal  to  a 
weight  of  a  cubic  centimetre  of  distilled  water. 


1  centigramme 
1  decigramme 

1  gramme 

1  decagramme 
1  hectogramme 
1  kilogramme  or 

kilo 
1  myriagramme 
1  quintal 
1  tonneau  or 
•ton 


=  \ 


-1543+  grain,  troy. 
15432+       "  " 

15-432+     grains,    " 

•03527+  ounce,  avoirdupois. 
•3527+         " 
8^5274+  ounces,  " 

2-6792      pounds,  troy. 
2-2046+      "         avoirdupois. 
22-046+         "  " 

112  "  " 

2204^02+  "  " 

1-1023  ton. 


N.  B. — Except  the  table  of  the  metric  system,  the  preceding  part  of 
this  chapter  is  taken  almost  verhatim  from  Castro's  Hcpuhlic  of  Mexico. 


WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 


107 


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108  GENERAL  INFORMATION, 

XXXIII. 
Labor  and  Wages. 

Slavery  existed  in  Mexico  before  and  after  the  Spanish 
Conquest,  but  it  was  abolished  soon  after  the  establishing 
of  Mexican  Independence.  Formerly  convicts  worked  in 
the  cotton  and  woolen  factories  in  company  with  free  la- 
borers ;  and  Humboldt,  in  his  Political  Essay  on  New 
Spain,  has  spoken  of  the  injurious  effect  of  this  system  on 
the  latter  class. 

Labor  is  now  abundant  throughout  the  Eepublic.  In 
some  of  the  larger  cities  the  supply  is  greater  than  the 
demand.  Skilled  labor  is  rare  among  the  natives,  but  they 
are  capable  of  learning  any  trade.  European  labor  has  not 
thus  far  been  largely  introduced  into  Mexico.  American 
negroes  have  been  imported  to  a  limited  extent  for  the 
purpose  of  railway-construction. 

The  peons  or  day-laborers  may  be  divided  principally 
into  two  great  classes,  *.  e.,  those  engaging  in  mining,  and 
those  who  are  employed  on  farms  and  ranches.  The  former 
class  are  much  better  workmen  than  the  latter.  They  are 
not  migratory  in  their  habits,  and  will  often  remain  in  one 
mining  district  for  a  lifetime.  The  miners  and  millers 
work  about  seven  hours  daily.  They  are  usually  peaceable, 
and  receive  better  wages  than  the  agricultural  peons.  The 
latter  are,  as  a  rule,  lazy  and  indolent.  In  the  tierra  fria 
and  tierra  templada  they  work  from  daylight  to  sunset, 
with  a  siesta  at  noon,  while  in  the  tierra  caliente  the  hours 
of  labor  are  from  5  to  11  a.  m.,  and  from  3  to  6  p.  m. 
Women  do  not  generally  work  in  the  fields. 

A  third  class  of  workmen  is  employed  in  the  factories 
and  hotels,  and  by  the  railways.  Male  and  female  opera- 
tives obtain  employment  in  the  former. 

A  considerable  number  of  the  Indian  population  act 


LABOR  AND   WAGES. 


109 


as  j)ublic  porters  on  the  highways.  Men  and  women  en- 
gage in  this  occupation,  and  they  use  ali3en-stocks  while 
walking.      An  ordinary  porter  will  carry  a  load  of  one 


Mexican  Porters. 


hundred  and  fifty  pounds  for  a  distance  of  twenty  miles 
daily.  All  kinds  of  merchandise  are  transported  on  the 
backs  of  porters.* 

During  the  eighteenth  century  the  Spanish  priests  are 
said  to  have  imported  donkeys  or  iurros  in  large  num- 

*  The  author  saw  an  Indian  carrying  a  large  sofa  on  the  road  from  the 
City  of  Mexico  to  Cuemavaca.  It  was  fastened  to  his  body  by  means  of 
ropes  and  straps  passing  across  his  breast  and  forehead,  and  extending 
under  his  arms. 


110  GENERAL  INFOEMATIOK 

bers  to  take  the  place  of  porters  in  carrying  burdens  (see 
p.  102). 

The  laboring  classes  of  Mexico  are  exceedingly  jealous 
of  the  introduction  of  labor-saving  machinery.  They  re- 
gard it  as  an  unwarranted  means  of  preventing  them  from 
earning  a  living.  Two  recent  events  will  serve  to  illustrate 
the  antagonism  of  the  peons  to  modern  improvements. 

Soon  after  the  adoption  of  the  compressed  air-brake 
on  the  railroads  of  the  United  States,  the  Mexican  Eailway 
Company  discharged  several  of  their  brakemen  and  intro- 
duced this  improved  brake  on  their  trains.  The  company's 
servants  rebelled  against  this  system,  and  stole  the  stop- 
cocks from  the  air-pipes,  thereby  compelling  their  em- 
ployers to  reinstate  them.* 

Eecently  the  owner  of  a  large  hacienda  purchased  an 
outfit  of  American  agricultural  implements.  Hi?,  peons  saw 
in  them  an  unjustifiable  interference  with  their  own  meth- 
ods of  farming,  and  in  the  course  of  a  few  weeks  the  enlight- 
ened hacendado  discovered  to  his  surprise  that  his  stock  of 
instruments  had  been  destroyed.  These  facts  are  significant, 
but  fortunately  the  intense  feeling  against  new  inventions 
and  improved  machines  is  confined  to  the  lower  classes. f 

The  following  table  of  wages  will  be  found  useful  for 
reference.  It  is  taken  from  Consul-General  Strother's  an- 
nual report  for  1882,  the  figures  being  approximately  stated : 

Carpenters,  per  day $1  00  to  $1  50 

Blackrimiths,  per  day 1  00  to     2  50 

TJpbolsterers,  per  day 75  to     1  25 

Shoemakers,  per  day 75  to     1  50 

Book-binders,  per  day 75  to     1  00 

*  These  facts  were  related  to  the  author  by  a  station-master  of  the 
Mexican  Central  Railroad  Company. 

f  In  constructing  railroads,  the  contractors  introduced  the  wheelbarrow 
among  the  peons.  They  carried  it  on  their  heads  when  filled  with  earth, 
and  it  was  found  that  more  work  could  be  done  with  the  gunny-bag  held 
on  the  shoulders. 


LABOR  AND   WAGES.  Ill 

Turners,  per  day %     75     to  $1  00 

Farriers,  locksmiths,  silversmiths  (generally  in- 
cluded in  blacksmithing),  per  day 75 

Tinners,  per  day 75 

Plumbers  and  gas-fitters,  per  day 75 

Pattern-makers,  molders  (in  foundries  are  paid 

by  the  piece),  gilders,  per  day 75 

Coach-makers,  per  day 1  50 

Harness-makers  and  saddlers,  per  day 75 

Stone-masons,  stone-cwtters,  brick-layers  (all  un- 
der the  same  heading),  per  day 75 

Ilouse-painters,  per  day 75 

Quarry-men  (paid  by  the  piece),  common  laborers 

{peons),  per  day 371^ 

Porters,  or  cargadores,  a  course,  per  day \2\ 

Plasterers,  plain  and  ornamental  (per  day) 1  25 

Tailors  (equivalent  to  per  diem) 1  00 

Hatters  (equivalent  to  per  diem) 87|- 

Cigar-makers  (chiefly  women),  per  diem 50 

Seamstresses  (per  diem) 373 

Cotton  spinners  and  weavers,  woolen  spinners 
and  weavers  (paid  by  the  piece,  equivalent 

to  per  diem) 1  00 

Factory-hands  (per  day) 50 

Engine-drivers  (per  day) 1  00 

Stokers  (per  day) 87| 

Eailway  conductors  (per  day) 1  00 

Machinists  (per  day) 1  00 

Printers  (equivalent  to  per  diem) 1  00 

In  the  trades  and  occupations  which  may  have  been 
omitted  in  the  above  list,  the  current  wages  of  journey- 
men will  be  found  to  vary  but  little  from  the  average 
given.  Skilled  workmen  from  abroad  are  now  frequently 
imported  at  conventional  prices  much  higher  than  the 
foregoing. 

N.  B. — Foreigners  intending  to  employ  native  laborers 
are  strongly  advised  to  put  them  under  the  control  of  a 


to 

1  00 

to 

87^ 

to 

1  00 

to 

1  25 

to 

2  00 

to 

1  00 

to 

1  25 

to 

1  25 

to 

50 

to 

50 

to 

1  50 

to 

1  50 

to 

1  00 

to 

1  00 

to 

50 

to 

75 

to 

1  60 

to 

1  50 

to 

1  75 

to 

2  00 

112  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

''boss"  who  speaks  the  Spanish  language,  and  who  is 
familiar  with  their  methods  of  work.  The  peons  are  amia- 
ble, and  will  generally  give  satisfaction  with  proper  man- 
agement ;  but  they  are  exceedingly  vindictive,  and,  if 
maltreated,  will  take  vengeance  on  their  oppressors  at  the 
first  opiDortunity. 


XXXIV. 
Wines  and  Liquors. 

According  to  Prescott,  the  Aztecs  manufactured 
pulque,  and  were  in  the  habit  of  becoming  intoxicated  by 
its  use.  This  is  the  case  with  their  posterity,  the  Mexicans 
of  the  present  day.  The  great  national  beverages  are  the 
various  kinds  of  pulque,  tnescal,  or  tequila,  and  aguardiente, 
or  brandy. 

Pulque  is  the  fermented  sap  of  the  maguey  plant 
{Agave  Americana),  which  is  extracted  from  the  heart 
as  follows  : 

The  stem  of  the  plant  is  cut  short,  and  a  deep  incision 
is  made  into  the  heart  of  it.  After  removing  the  surround- 
ing leaves,  the  stalk  is  hollowed  for  several  inches.  The 
sap  is  gathered  from  this  cavity  two  or  three  times  daily, 
by  means  of  an  acocofe.  This  instrument  acts  like  a  pi- 
pette. It  consists  of  a  long  gourd,  to  each  end  of  which  a 
piece  of  sharp  horn  is  attached.  The  peon  inserts  one  end 
into  the  liquid,  and,  placing  the  other  in  his  mouth,  ex- 
tracts the  sap  by  suction  into  the  body  of  the  gourd.  The 
juice  is  emptied  into  a  jar  or  skin,  which  is  carried  on  the 
back,  and  then  it  is  taken  to  the  cellar  and  allowed  to  fer- 
ment. A  single  plant  of  maguey  will  generally  yield  eight 
cuartillos,  or  one  gallon,  of  sap  in  a  day.  The  juice  when 
extracted  is  termed  agua  miel,  or  honey-water. 


WINES  AND  LIQUORS. 


113 


Pulque  is  of  a  milk-wliite  appearance,  and  resembles 
beer  slightly  in  taste. 

Mescal  is  also  prepared  from  the  maguey.  The  leaves  are 
pressed  in  a  mill,  and  the  juice  that  runs  out  is  distilled. 
Tequila  is  similar  in  taste.     It  is  distilled  from  a  small  spe- 


i'M\\'i.'''i)\  iX, 


:^f;r^t 


^■is^3/        /'/^  >"y- 


Pulque  Tlachiquero. 

cies  of  maguey  called  the  zotol,  which  grows  largely  in  Ja- 
lisco, es2:)ecially  near  the  town  of  Tequila,  whence  its  name. 
Both  mescal  and  tequila  are  transparent  liquids. 

Aguardiente  is  distilled  chiefly  from  sugar-cane  juice, 
but  it  is  sometimes  made  from  the  juice  of  the  grape.     Be- 


114  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

sides  these  liquors,  there  are  numerous  others  that  the 
stranger  rarely  hears  of  except  in  the  rural  districts,  such 
as  cliarape,  cliiclia,  joho,  peyote,  tecuin,  tepaclie,  hiba, 
etc. 

Pulque  is  made  principally  in  the  States  of  Mexico,  Hi- 
dalgo, and  Tlaxcala.  The  center  of  population  being  in 
this  part  of  Mexico,  accounts  for  the  immense  cultivation 
of  the  maguey  in  these  adjoining  States. 

Mescal  comes  for  the  most  part  from  Jalisco,  Sinaloa, 
Puebla,  Hidalgo,  and  Michoacan.  Aguardiente  is  made 
chiefly  in  the  sugar-growing  States  of  Vera  Cruz,  Morelos, 
Michoacan,  Jalisco,  Mexico,  Oaxaca,  Yucatan,  and  Coa- 
huila.  Pulque  is  usually  transported  from  the  haciendas 
in  sheep-skins  ;  and  mescal  and  aguardiente  are  carried  in 
kegs. 

The  liquors  above  mentioned,  however,  are  not  the  only 
ones  which  Mexico  produces.  The  soil  of  the  country  is 
adapted  to  the  culture  of  all  kinds  of  grapes.  Red  and 
white  wines  are  manufactured  in  comparatively  small 
quantities,  most  of  the  native  wines  coming  from  the 
States  of  Chihuahua  and  Coahuila.  But  nearly  all  the 
wine  consumed  in  Central  Mexico  is  imported  from 
France  and  Spain  by  merchants  in  Vera  Cruz.  Eed 
wine  is  sold  at  from  seventy-five  cents  to  one  dollar  per 
quart  bottle. 

A  limited  amount  of  beer  is  also  produced.  It  is  made 
chiefly  in  the  States  of  Guanajuato,  Jalisco,  Vera  Cruz, 
Puebla,  and  the  Federal  District.  Much  St.  Louis  (Mis- 
souri) beer  is  imported,  and  sold  at  the  high  price  of 
three  reales  per  bottle  in  the  northern  part  and  four  re- 
ales  in  the  southern  part  of  Mexico.  The  cocoanut-wine 
comes  for  the  most  part  from  Michoacan,  Yucatan,  and 
Campeche. 

The  following  table,  from  Seiior  Busto's  Estadistica  de 
la  RcpuhUca  Mexicana,  shows  the  amount  of  wines  and 


CIGARS  AXD  TOBACCO. 


115 


liquors  produced  in  the  year   18T9,  together  with  their 
rahie  : 


WINES  AND  LIQUORS. 


Brandy  from  grapes 

Brandy  from  sugar-cane  (aguardiente). 

Boer 

Mescal  of  Tequila 

Common  mescal 

Pulque  "  tlachique  " 

Fine  pulque 

Common  pulque 

AVhite  wine 

Red  wine 

Wines  and  various  liquors 

Cocoanut-wine 


Total 526,349,903 


Pounds. 


1,169,467 

42,498,737 

22,128,999 

19,835,200 

11,336,080 

168,146,213 

220,468,880 

23,124,360 

4,866,859 

7,765,380 

4,717,361 

290,367 


Dollars. 


114,453 

2,052,150 
768,703 

1,176,000 
670,646 
323,232 

3,93.5,995 
330,301 

1,154,196 

1,508,475 

941,021 

34,341 


12,909,513 


XXXV. 
Cigars  and  Tobacco. 

Smoking  is  universal  in  the  Republic.  The  Mexican 
smokes  at  the  theatre,  in  all  public  conveyances,  in  the 
shops,  during  meal-time,  and  even  in  church.  Cigarettes 
(cigarrillos)  are  consumed  in  about  the  same  quantity  as 
cigars  (puros).  Mexicans  when  about  to  smoke  will  always 
offer  cigarettes  to  by-standers,  whether  they  are  acquainted 
or  not,  and  the  refusal  to  accept  will  generally  give  oifense. 

The  cigars  made  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz  are,  perhaps, 
the  finest  in  the  country.  They  are  very  cheap.  Choice 
cigars  can  be  purchased  at  six  pesos  a  hundred.  The  brand 
known  as  La  Giralda  is  mild  and  very  popular.  Owing  to 
the  low  price  of  tobacco,  even  the  poorer  classes  smoke  im- 
moderately. The  ''weed"  is  used  by  men,  women,  and 
children. 

Early  Spanish  historians  tell  us  that  tobacco,  called 


116  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

pycietl  by  the  ancient  Mexicans,  was  known  to  them  before 
the  Conquest.  They  were  in  the  habit  of  smoking  pipes 
and  taking  snuff.  The  Government  derives  a  large  rev- 
enue from  the  sale  of  tobacco.  Mexico  consumes  about 
$18,000,000  worth  of  it  annually. 

Tobacco  is  not  exjjorted  in  considerable  quantities,  but 
Mexican  cigars  are  generally  found  in  New  York  and  a  few 
of  the  larger  cities  of  the  United  States.  (  Vide  chapter  on 
agriculture  for  an  account  of  the  tobacco-culture.) 


XXXVI. 
Manufactures. 


"When  the  Spaniards  invaded  Mexico,  in  1519,  they 
found  the  Aztecs  possessed  manufactures  of  considerable 
merit.  The  latter  wore  cscaupil — a  kind  of  armor  made  of 
quilted  cotton,  thick  enough  to  be  impenetrable  to  the  light 
missiles  of  aboriginal  warfare.  The  wealthier  chiefs,  how- 
ever, sometimes  donned  a  cuirass  made  of  thin  plates  of 
gold  or  silver,  lind  wooden  helmets. 

Soon  after  his  arrival  at  Vera  Cruz,  Cortes  sent  cotton 
fabrics  as  presents  to  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  Historians 
tell  us  that  cotton  was  perhaps  grown,  but  certainly  manu- 
factured, in  Mexico  as  early  as  in  any  other  civilized  coun- 
try. The  Spanish  chroniclers  of  the  time  state,  that  the 
Aztecs  made  large  webs  as  fine  and  delicate  as  those  of  Hol- 
land ;  that  they  wore  cloths  of  different  figures  and  colors, 
representing  various  animals  and  flowers  ;  that  feathers 
oftentimes  made  a  part  of  the  texture  ;  that  they  manufac- 
tured mantles,  gowns,  and  bed-curtains  ;  and  that  a  hand- 
some cloth  was  also  manufactured  by  taking  the  finest  hair 
of  the  rabbit  and  spinning  it  into  thread,  after  which  it 
was  interwoven  with  cotton. 


MANUFACTURES.  117 

The  oldest  cotton-factories  are  to  be  found  in  tlie  city 
of  Texcoco. 

The  Aztecs  were  familiar  with  the  art  of  reducing  silver, 
lead,  copper,  and  tin.  The  process  was,  however,  easy 
and  simple.  They  formed  an  alloy  of  the  two  last-named 
metals,  and  wrought  tools  of  bronze.  With  these  imple- 
ments they  were  able  to  cut  not  only  metals,  but,  with  the 
aid  of  fine  sand,  the  hardest  substances — as  basalt,  porphy- 
ry, amethysts,  and  emeralds  {vide  Prescott's  Conquest  of 
Mexico,  vol.  i,  pp.  138,  139). 

Besides  making  textile  fabrics,  working  in  metals,  and 
hewing  stone,  the  ancient  Mexicans  molded  pottery  on  a 
large  scale,  and  manufactured  from  the  maguey  {Agave 
Americana)  a  variety  of  articles,  such  as  paper,  thread,  and 
cords  from  the  leaves  (which  were  also  used  to  thatch  roofs), 
pins  and  needles  from  the  thorns,  and  pulque  from  the  fer- 
mented juice  of  the  stem. 

Owing  to  the  restrictions  imposed  by  the  Government, 
manufactures  did  not  thrive  during  the  rule  of  the  viceroys. 
Still,  the  cotton  and  woolen  factories  were  preserved,  the 
metals  were  reduced  from  the  ores,  and  soap,  wax,  sugar, 
pottery,  pulque,  and  a  few  other  articles  were  produced. 
The  frequent  revolutions  and  the  instability  of  the  Federal 
Government  since  the  War  of  Independence  have  greatly 
retarded  manufacturing  industry.  Fuel  being  exceedingly 
scarce,  steam  is  even  now  rarely  used  in  the  factories  and 
reducing- works ;  but  water-,  mule-,  and  man-power  are  gen- 
erally employed.  In  his  long  tour  through  the  Republic  in 
the  winter  and  spring  of  1883,  the  author  noticed  only  one 
sugar-mill,  one  silver-reducing-mill,  two  cotton-factories, 
and  a  flour-mill,  that  were  run  by  steam.  In  the  latter  case 
an  aqueduct  was  in  course  of  construction  to  conduct  water 
to  the  mill  as  a  motive  power.  On  account  of  the  configu- 
ration of  Mexico,  there  is  abundant  water-power  just  below 
the  border  of  the  tierrafria  and  in  some  parts  of  the  great 


lis  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

plateau.  Few  things,  comparatively,  are  manufactured  at 
the  present  day.  The  establishment  of  industrial  schools, 
however,  in  the  cities  of  Guadalajara,  Mexico,  Puebla,  and 
Orizaba,  and  recent  industrial  expositions  in  these  cities, 
have  given  an  impetus  to  domestic  industry.  The  Her- 
cules cotton-mill  at  Queretaro  furnishes  employment  to 
1,400  operatives  (for  description,  see  Section  V).  It  is  by 
far  the  largest  mill  in  Mexico.  A  few  others  have  been 
erected  by  French  and  German  capitalists  in  the  central 
part  of  the  Kepublic. 

A  company  has  recently  been  organized  at  Mapimi,  in 
the  State  of  Durango,  to  manufacture  cotton  goods  at  a 
place  known  as  Ojo  de  Agvia.  The  region  affords  fine  water- 
power,  and  the  factory  will  be  started  with  forty  looms. 
Small  tread-mills  are  used  extensively  in  making  woolen 
cloths  and  blankets  or  zarapes.  There  are  a  few  small 
silk-factories. 

Although  the  data  are  wanting  to  give  an  accurate  list 
of  all  the  manufactures  of  Mexico,  together  with  their 
amount  and  value,  we  will  take  the  following  figures  from 
Seuor  Busto's  great  work  on  Mexican  statistics  :  The  num- 
ber of  factories  in  Mexico  is  99  ;  their  value  in  machinery, 
14,690,776  ;  and  in  buildings,  $4,816,999— making  a  total 
of  $9,507,775.  They  contain  258,458  spindles  and  9,314 
looms.  Their  annual  consumption  of  cotton  amounts  to 
258,962  quintals,*  and  of  wool  to  59,240  arrohas.  f  The 
number  of  operatives  employed  is  12,346. 

The  manufactures  of  the  country  may  be  concisely 
stated  as  follows  :  Cotton  and  woolen  goods  ;  hats  of  straw 
and  felt ;  leather- work  of  every  kind  ;  soap  ;  J  wax,  either  in 
the  form  of  candles,  matches,  or  ex  vofos  ;  silk  ;  glass  ;  fur- 
niture ;  pottery ;  marble-work  ;  rope  ;  palm-leaf  work  of 
all  kinds,  as  matting,  baskets,  brooms,  brushes,  etc. ;  a  few 

*  29,003,744  pounds.  f  1,481,000  pounds. 

X  Much  soap  is  made  in  Guadalajara,  Puebla,  and  Mexico. 


NATIVE  PRODUGTIOFS.  119 

kinds  of  paper  ;  *  diligences  and  carts  ;  flour  ;  sugar ;  choc- 
olate ;  indigo  ;  tiles  ;  and  adobe,  or  sun-dried  brick  ;  also 
wine  and  liquors,  which  are  described  in  a  sej)arate  chapter 
{vide  p.  115). 

N.  B. — I^Tone  of  these  articles  are  exported  to  any  ex- 
tent. 


XXXVII. 
Native  Productions, 

This  chapter  is  designed  to  supplement  the  preceding 
one  on  manufactures.  The  Indians  of  to-day  make  various 
articles  that  were  in  common  use  among  their  Aztec  an- 
cestors. 

The  plumaje,  or  feather-work,  which  is  sold  in  the 
shops  at  the  capital,  resembles  that  made  in  Montezuma's 
time  ;  but,  instead  of  being  interwoyen  with  a  cotton  web, 
the  feathers  are  put  together  in  various  forms  and  attached 
to  a  card-board. 

Different  varieties  of  artificial  birds  are  constructed  in 
this  manner,  the  gorgeous  colors  of  the  parrot  tribe  and 
the  delicate  down  of  the  humming-bird  affording  excellent 
material  for  a  beautiful  model.  Some  of  these  birds  are  of 
life-size,  but  most  of  them  are  on  a  reduced  scale.  The 
modern  Mexicans  do  not  make  knives,  razors,  and  serrated 
swords  of  itztli,  or  obsidian,  but  the  tourist  may  find  frag- 
ments of  this  material  on  sale  in  the  portales  of  the  City  of 
Mexico. 

Pottery  is  manufactured  on  a  large  scale  {vide  preced- 
ing chapter).  It  comes  mostly  from  Guadalajara,  Urua- 
pan,  and  Zintzuntlan.  The  Guadalajara  ware  is  glazed 
and  variegated  in  color.  It  is  molded  into  all  kinds  of 
figures,  many  of  which  are  artistic  in  design,  and  illustrate 
the  national  costumes.  Aztec  jiottery  is  now  very  scarce. 
*  There  was  no  paper-factory  up  to  1803. 


120  GENERAL  INFORMATIOK 

Numerous  imitations  are  made,  however,  and  travelers  are 
cautioned  against  paying  high  prices  for  the  spurious  arti- 
cle. Eag  figures  dressed  in  Mexican  costumes  are  sold  ex- 
tensively by  the  Indians.  All  kinds  of  baskets  composed 
of  gayly-colored  fragments  of  the  palm-leaf  are  cheap  and 
abundant.  The  zarapes  are  described  in  the  chapter  on 
costumes.  Every  variety  of  leather-ware  is  made  in  the 
country.  Besides  leathern  clothing  and  foot-gear,  bridles, 
saddles,  whips,  etc.,  are  manufactured,  which  are  often- 
times of  exquisite  workmanship.  The  author  saw  a  silver- 
mounted  saddle  belonging  to  a  wealthy  young  hacendado 
that  was  valued  at  $1,000.  It  weighed  forty  pounds.  The 
Mexican  onyx,  or  tecali,  is  wrought  into  paper-weights  and 
small  vases,  and  even  into  mantel-pieces.  The  pale-green 
variety  of  this  stone  is  very  beautiful.  Tourists  are  recom- 
mended to  purchase  ornaments  of  tecali  either  at  Puebla  or 
at  the  capital. 

Choice  embroidery  {hordado)  is  made  in  Mexico.  This 
work  is  done  on  velvet,  silk,  cloth,  or  muslin.  Gold  and 
silver  thread  is  commonly  used  to  embroider  velvet  and 
silk.  The  vestments  of  the  priests  are  trimmed  in  this 
manner  {vide  chapter  on  the  Church).  Felt  hats  are  usu- 
ally adorned  with  silver  thread.  The  most  beautiful  piece 
of  native  needle-work  on  exhibition  is  found  on  the  throne 
of  the  S(da  de  Emhajadores,  at  the  National  Palace  in  the 
capital.  It  consists  of  the  Mexican  coat-of-arms  embroid- 
ered with  gold  thread  on  dark  velvet. 

Ladies  wishing  to  purchase  ornamental  specimens  of 
needle-work  should  have  them  made  to  order,  as  Mexican 
shopkeepers  rarely  have  choice  embroidery  in  stock.  There 
is  no  fixed  price  for  this  class  of  work  ;  accordingly,  stran- 
gers are  advised  to  bargain  with  the  dealers. 

Owing  to  the  small  number  of  artists,  paintings  which 
delineate  Mexican  scenery  or  costumes  are  seldom  offered 
for  sale.     Photographs  of  the  places  of  interest,  both  in 


JEWELRY.  121 

town  and  country,  and  also  of  the  national  dress,  may  be 
purchased  in  all  the  large  cities. 


XXXVIII. 

Jewelry. 

Mexican"  jewelry  has  justly  acquired  a  world-wide 
fame.  When  the  Spaniards  invaded  the  country,  they 
acknowledged  that  the  gold  and  silver-smiths  of  the  Aztec 
Empire  excelled  those  of  their  own  land. 

The  precious  metals  were  used  in  casting  vessels,  some 
of  which  were  said  to  have  been  so  large  that  a  man  could 
not  encircle  them  with  his  arms. 

Gems  like  opal,  turquoise  or  chalcliihuitl,  ruby,  agate, 
heliotrope,  and  chalcedony,  were  mounted  in  gold  ;  and 
artistic  filigree- work  in  both  gold  and  silver  was  made 
extensively. 

According  to  the  accounts  of  the  early  Spanish  chroni- 
clers, the  ornaments  worn  by  Montezuma  must  have  been 
equal  in  elegance  to  many  of  the  crown-jewels  of  the  impe- 
rial families  of  Europe. 

At  the  present  day  the  traveler  will  not  meet  with  any 
large  specimens  of  silver-ware,  excepting  the  exquisite 
service  of  Maximilian,  which  is  on  exhibition  in  the  mu- 
seum at  the  national  capital. 

The  modern  jewelers  confine  themselves  principally  to 
the  manufacture  of  watches,  chains,  necklaces,  brooches, 
pins,  buttons,  and  other  articles  for  personal  adornment. 
The  filigree-work  in  silver  is  worn  extensively,  but  that  of 
gold  is  seldom  used. 

Chapetas,  or  silver  studs  for  hats,  are  made  in  large 
quantities.  They  are  in  the  form  of  stirrups,  revolvers, 
ropes,  horse-heads,  bull-heads,  spurs,  and  other  figures. 
These  chapetas  are  fastened  on  either  side  of  the  crowQ 


122  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

(see  chapter  on  costumes).  Silver  ornaments  are  sold  at 
a  low  price,  and  they  make  handsome  presents  for  tourists 
to  purchase.  The  smallest  and  cheapest  figures  are  ex 
votos  in  the  shape  of  arms  and  legs. 


XXXIX. 

Theatres. 


Theatres  may  be  found  in  all  cities  and  towns  of  the 
country.  The  Mexican  has  inherited  from  the  Spaniard 
his  love  for  the  drama.  Many  of  the  plays  put  upon  the 
stage  are  translated  from  the  French,  the  number  of  native 
dramatists  being  very  small.  Many  traveling  operatic  and 
theatrical  companies  visit  Mexico  in  the  winter  season. 
The  opera-houffe  is  given  every  year. 

Sunday  night  is  the  most  popular  time  to  go  to  the 
theatre.  The  prices  of  admission  are  lower  than  in  the 
United  States.  A  seat  in  the  parquet,  or  patio,  gener- 
ally costs  one  peso.     Smoking  is  allowed  there. 

Ladies  wishing  to  visit  the  theatres  should  procure 
tickets  in  a  box  or  loja.  They  are  plain  edifices,  with  little 
interior  decoration,  and  are  commonly  built  with  an  ellip- 
tical auditorium,  which  has  several  tiers  of  boxes  ranged 
one  directly  above  the  other,  reminding  the  traveler  of  La 
Scala  at  Milan. 


XL. 

Music. 

The  Mexican  people  are  very  fond  of  music.  There 
are  excellent  military  bands  in  all  the  cities  and  garrisoned 
towns,  where  a  pagoda  is  generally  erected  in  the  main 
plaza.     They  usually  play  three  evenings  in  the  week. 


MU8I0.  123 

when  the  "swell"  population  turns  out  to  enjoy  the  music. 
Travelers  will  find  pianos  all  over  the  country,  even  in 
towns  500  miles  distant  from  a  seaport  or  railway  termi- 
nus. Violins  and  guitars  are  also  used,  the  latter  being 
common  among  the  Indians  and  mestizos.  Wandering 
street  musicians  are  rare. 

There  is  not  much  original  Mexican  music  ;  the  national 
hymn,  consisting  of  ten  verses,  being  the  best  known.  It 
was  written  by  Bocanegra,  and  set  to  music  by  Nuno. 

The  following  is  a  metrical  translation  of  the  chorus 
and  first  two  verses  of  the  national  hymn  of  Mexico  :  * 

CHORUS. 

Mexicans,  haste  to  fight  and  bleed! 
Make  ready  sword  and  bridled  steed  ; 
Let  the  earth  tremble  to  its  core, 
Exulting  in  the  cannon's  roar. 

First  Stanza. 
Oh,  may  the  olive-branch  of  peace, 
Dear  Fatherland,  wave  over  thee  ; 
For  writ  in  heaven,  by  God's  own  hand, 
Is  thine  eternal  destiny. 
And  if  the  foe,  with  foot  profane, 
Invade  thy  soil,  O  sacred  land ! 
Each  son  of  thine,  a  soldier  born, 
The  fierce  invasions  shall  withstand. 

Second  Stanza. 
Behold  them  plunged  in  bloody  strife  ; 
The  love  which  animates  each  heart 
Impels  them  on  to  give  their  life, 
And  e'er  count  death  the  better  part. 
The  former  exploits  of  thy  sons, 
O  Fatherland,  remember  now, 
And  once  again  immortal  crowns 
Of  laurel  shall  adorn  thy  brow. 

*  Arranged  for  the  author  by  E.  E.  J. 


124  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

The  singing  in  the  churches  is  of  a  high  order,  and  the 
choir-boys  have  exquisite  alto  voices. 


XLI. 

Dances. 

Mexicaks  are  likewise  passionately  fond  of  dancing. 
Public  balls  {Miles)  are  frequent  all  over  the  Eepublic.  In 
the  capital  they  are  held  on  Sunday  nights,  while  in  the 
smaller  cities  Saturday  is  the  more  common  evening  for 
them.  Private  balls  are  given  by  subscription  in  the  prin- 
cipal cities,  to  which  tourists  may  obtain  invitations  through 
some  banker  or  merchant. 

It  is  rare  to  have  a  tertuJia,  or  evening-party,  without 
dancing. 

XLII. 

Festivals. 

The  festivals  of  Mexico  were  formerly  of  a  religious 
character,  but  since  1856  they  partake  of  a  political  nature. 
The  following  is  a  list  of  the  principal  holidays  : 

January  23.  Smito  *  of  the  King  of  Spain. 

February  5.  Anniversary  of  the  Constitution  of  1857. 

February  22.  Birth  of  "Washington. 

March  14.  Smito  of  the  King  of  Italy. 

March  21.  Birth  of  Benito  Juarez. 

April  1.  Opening  of  the  session  of  Congress. 

May  5.  Anniversary  of  the  defeat  of  the  French  at 
Puebla. 

May  8.  Birth  of  the  Curate  Hidalgo. 

May  15.   Capture  of  Queretaro  in  1867. 

May  31.  Close  of  the  session  of  Congress. 

*  Santo  means  the  anniversary  of  the  birthday  of  the  saint  after  whom 
the  king  is  named. 


BULL-FIGHTS.  125 

June  21.  Capture  of  Mexico  in  1867. 

June  30.  Anniversary  of  the  reformation  in  Guatemala. 

July  4.  Independence  of  the  United  States. 

July  18.  Anniversary  of  tlie  death  of  Juarez. 

July  20.  Independence  of  Colombia. 

July  28.  Independence  of  Peru. 

July  30.  Death  of  the  Curate  Hidalgo. 

September  15.  Independence  of  Guatemala. 

September  16.  Independence  of  Mexico. 

November  15.  Santo  of  the  King  of  the  Belgians. 


XLIII. 
Bull-fights. 

The  bull-fight,  or  funcion  de  toros,  is  the  national  _^es^a 
of  Mexico,  and  is  one  of  the  objectionable  legacies  of  the 
Spaniards.  Bull-fights  take  place  on  Sunday  afternoons. 
The  best  performances  are  at  Huisachal,  a  suburb  of  the 
capital.  They  are  forbidden  by  law  within  the  city  limits. 
There  are  bull-rings  {plazas  de  toros)  in  all  cities  and 
towns.  Several  of  the  larger  cities  have  two.  The  rings 
in  Mexico  are  commonly  of  wood,*  and  are  built  in  the 
form  of  an  amphitheatre.  The  seats  are  classified  into 
those  in  the  shade  {somhra)  and  those  in  the  sun  {sol). 
The  former  are,  of  course,  preferable,  and  cost  more  than 
the  latter. 

Most  of  the  bull-fighters  are  Mexicans,  but  at  the  present 
time  (1883)  a  famous  Spanish  maestro,  named  El  Chiclanero, 
is  ''  starring"  in  the  Eepublic.  Bull-fighters,  or toreadores, 
are  agile  men,  of  rather  slender  build,  and  do  not  usually 
exceed  the  medium  height.  They  seldom  possess  great  phys- 
ical strength,  but  are  expert  jumpers.     They  are  divided 

*  The  Spanish  bull-rings  arc  made  of  brick  or  stone. 


126  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

into  four  classes  :  the  espadas,  or  matadores,  who  kill  the 
bull  with  a  sword ;  the  banderilleros,  who  thrust  barbed 
darts  into  his  neck  ;  i\\Q picador es,  who  ride  jaded  Rosinante- 
hacks,  and  strike  the  animal  with  their  lances ;  and  the 
cliulos  and  capas,  who  tease  him  with  gaylj-colored  cloths, 
and  assist  the  toreadores  generally. 

The  bull  enters  the  arena  at  the  sound  of  a  trumpet, 
and  is  in  turn  attacked  by  the  above-named  classes  of 
fighters.  When  the  persecuted  beast  falls  from  exhaustion 
and  loss  of  blood,  he  is  killed  by  the  caclietero,  who  thrusts 
a  small  dagger  into  the  najDc  of  the  neck,  Just  above  the 
spinal  column.  The  body  is  then  dragged  out  of  the  ring 
by  a  trio  of  mules,  amid  the  deafening  yells  of  the  crowd, 
the  band  playing  at  the  time.  The  carcass  is  sold  to  the 
butcher.  Unlike  the  funciones  of  Spain,  the  horses  are 
protected  with  huge  leather  covers,  and  the  tips  of  the 
bull's  horns  are  sometimes  sawed  off. 


XLIV. 
Cock-fights. 

Cock-fights,  or  peleas  de  gcdlos,  take  place  all  over  the 
country.  The  cock-pits  are  light  pyramidal  structures  that 
are  made  of  wood,  with  a  thatched  roof,  and  open  at  the 
base. 

Cock-fighters,  or  galleros,  are  frequently  seen  in  the 
streets,  each  carrying  a  game-cock,  with  a  string  tied  to 
its  leg.  Sunday  afternoon  is  the  favorite  time  for  cock- 
fighting. 

Occasionally  the  inhabitants  of  rival  towns  will  have  a 
match,  when  representatives  of  each  will  send  picked  game- 
cocks to  engage  in  the  fight.  The  event  is  announced, 
weeks  beforehand,  by  gaudy  bills  posted  on  the  sides  of  the 
public  buildings. 


COSTUMES.  127 

It  may  be  remarked  that  cock-fights  are  likewise  com- 
mon in  the  Territory  of  New  Mexico,  altliough  bull-fights 
are  unknown.  The  most  popular  season  for  cock-  and  bull- 
fighting is  during  Lent. 


XLV. 
Costumes. 

The  upper  classes,  especially  the  Government  officials, 
in  Mexico,  have  recently  discarded  the  national  costume, 
and  now  wear  the  European  dress.  Black  coats  and  silk 
hats  are  as  commonly  seen  on  the  Plaza  mayor  of  the  City 
of  Mexico  as  on  Broadway  or  Fifth  Avenue. 

There  is  a  great  variety  of  costumes,  however,  among 
the  country  gentlemen,  and  among  both  sexes  in  the  lower 
classes.  The  Mexican  hat,  or  so7nbrero,  is  the  most  promi- 
nent part  of  the  national  dress.  It  is  either  of  felt  or 
straw,  and  has  a  very  wide  brim.  When  made  of  the  for- 
mer material,  the  color  varies  from  light  gray  to  brown  and 
black.  The  crown  is  trimmed  with  a  silver  band,  and  the 
brim  is  oftentimes  heavily  embroidered  with  silver  thread. 
The  cords  around  the  crown  are  either  single,  double,  or 
quadruple,  and  small  silver  ornaments  called  cliaintas  are 
attached  to  both  sides  of  it.  Straw  hats  are  generally  pro- 
vided with  puffed  bands  of  the  same  material,  and  occa- 
sionally silver  cords  are  worn  on  them.  The  peasantry 
wear  plain  straw  hats  and  white  cotton  shirts  and  trousers. 
Cloaks  of  water-flags  or  palm-leaf  strips  are  used  by  the 
Indians.     They  are  impervious  to  the  rain. 

Azarape,*  or  blanket  woven  either  of  woolen  goods  or 

of  both  wool  and  cotton,  is  worn  in  the  early  morning  and 

in  the  evening.    An  infinite  variety  of  patterns  may  be  seen 

in  these  zarapes.     Stripes  of  various  shades  of  red,  yellow, 

*  Sometimes  spelled  serape. 


128  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

and  brown,  are  the  prevailing  colors.  Unlike  the  ponchos 
and  mangas  of  Spain,  the  zarapes  are  thrown  over  the 
shoulder,  instead  of  inserting  the  head  through  a  hole  or 
slit  in  the  middle.  However,  some  of  the  latter  style  of 
blankets  are  worn,  especially  by  diligence-drivers  and  don- 
key-boys. Stage-coachmen  also  wear  leggings  embossed 
with  large  nail-heads. 

Huaraches,  or  leathern  sandals,  fastened  with  straps  over 
the  instep  and  across  the  ball  of  the  foot,  take  the  place 
of  boots  or  shoes  among  the  lower  classes. 

The  usual  style  of  dress  among  the  peasant- women  con- 
sists of  a  white  waist  and  skirt,  with  a  blue  scarf  or  shawl 
{reiozo):  These  simple  colors  remind  the  traveler  of  those 
adopted  by  Murillo  in  his  paintings  of  the  Virgin.  Straw 
hats,  like  those  worn  by  the  poorer  class  of  men,  arc  donned 
by  the  women. 

The  ladies  in  cities  are  generally  dressed  in  plain  black, 
and  without  a  bonnet.  They  carry  black  silk  parasols  and 
black  fans.  The  mantilla  is  now  generally  disused.  Since 
1881  young  ladies,  especially  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  have 
begun  wearing  hats  of  foreign  make  and  dresses  of  various 
colors.* 

The  hacenclados  and  country  gentlemen  usually  wear 
suits  of  black  cloth,  consisting  of  a  short  Jacket  with  silver 
buttons,  a  waistcoat  cut  low,  and  pantaloons  opening  on 
the  outside  of  the  leg,  with  two  rows  of  fancy  silver  but- 
tons along  the  outer  seam.  A  faja,  or  sash,  which  is  com- 
monly of  a  red  color,  is  added  to  the  costume,  and  the 
boots  are  made  with  high  heels.  This  dress  is  worn  in  the 
tierra  fria,  and  in  the  upper  part  of  the  tierra  templada. 
In  the  tierra  caliente  the  gentry  wear  plain  white  cotton 
suits  with  sombreros  of  felt  or  straw.     In  riding  through 

*  The  American  consul  at  the  capital  informed  the  author  that,  in  1880, 
his  wife  was  compelled  to  send  to  the  United  States  for  a  bonnet,  being 
unable  to  purchase  one  in  the  City  of  Mexico. 


LOTTERIES.— STORES.  129 

the  underbrush,  cliaparraleros,  or  loose  leathern  trousers, 
are  worn  over  the  ordinary  pantaloons.  Except  in  the 
large  cities,  swords  or  machetes  are  usually  attached  to  the 
saddle-bow. 


XLVI. 

Lotteries. 

Following  the  example  of  Sjiain,  lotteries  were  intro- 
duced into  Mexico  many  years  ago,  and  are  now  an  impor- 
tant source  of  revenue.  Lottery-tickets  are  sold  in  all  the 
cities  by  men,  women,  and  children.  They  are  found  on 
the  portales  of  the  plazas,  at  the  doors  of  hotels  and  cafes, 
and  on  the  street  corners.  The  Government  receipts  from 
lotteries  were  : 

In  1880-'81 $32,856. 

In  1881-^82 60,000. 

In  1882-'83 800,000. 


XLVII. 

Stores. 

AccoEDiNG  to  Prescott,  there  were  no  shops  in  the 
Aztec  Empire.  Goods  and  wares  were  sold  in  the  market- 
place. Fairs  were  held  at  short  intervals,  and  the  mer- 
chants were  itinerant  traders.  Under  the  Spanish  domina- 
tion, the  system  was  greatly  modified.  With  the  impor- 
tation of  merchandise  from  the  mother-country  came  the 
gradual  introduction  of  shops.  They  have  undergone  a 
great  change  since  1870.  The  shops  usually  have  fanciful 
names,  such  as  ''The  City  of  Paris,"  "The  Azure  Boot," 
"The  Red  Gown,"  etc. 

While  household  ornaments,  books,  hardware,  crockery. 


130  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

leather-work,  and  a  few  other  articles,  were  formerly  on 
sale  in  considerable  quantities,  wearing-apparel  suitable  for 
Europeans  was  almost  unknown.  A  new  era  of  trade  has 
dawned  upon  the  Republic  since  the  introduction  of  Ameri- 
can railroad  enterprise.  The  foreign  resident  need  no 
longer  send  to  New  York,  London,  or  Paris  for  luxuries 
and  fashions.  All  kinds  of  clothing  can  now  be  made  at 
short  notice  ;  and  preserves,  canned  goods,  hams,  wines, 
confectionery,  and  other  articles  which  the  European  re- 
quires, are  found  in  the  shops.  The  finest  mercantile 
establishments  are  in  the  cities  of  Puebla  and  Mexico. 
French  is  spoken  in  many  of  them.  The  shops  on  the 
Calle  de  San  Francisco,  on  the  Plateros,  and  on  the  Plaza 
mayor  in  the  capital,  are  commodious,  and  contain  a  fine 
assortment  of  goods.  Some  of  the  clerks  speak  English. 
Strangers  are  charged  exorbitant  prices,  so  it  is  advisable 
to  mar  chancier  with  the  salesmen. 


XL  VIII. 
Pawnbroker-Shops. 

These  institutions  are  controlled  by  the  Government, 
and  exist  in  all  the  cities  of  Mexico.  They  are  termed 
mo7ite  de  piedad,  or  montepio. 

There  is  a  large  monte  de  piedad  in  Puebla,  and  a  cen- 
tral office  with  several  branches  at  the  capital.  The  arti- 
cles deposited  as  security  for  loans  in  the  pawnbroker-shops 
are  chiefly  wearing-apparel,  leather-work,  jewelry,  and 
fire-arms.  The  Government  officers  set  a  price  on  goods 
forfeited  to  the  montepio.  If  they  are  not  sold  within  a 
few  weeks,  a  second  price  is  fixed.  Should  the  articles  fail 
to  find  a  purchaser  at  the  reduced  valuation,  they  are  ap- 
praised again.  They  arc  then  kept  for  an  indefinite  period, 
till  the  third  price  is  paid. 


THE  CHURCH.  131 

Travelers  can  occasionally  find  rare  and  valuable  objects 
at  these  shops.  The  bills  of  the  national  monte  de  piedad 
circulate  at  par  throughout  the  country. 


XLIX. 
The  Church. 


Up  to  the  year  1859  one  third  of  all  the  real  and  per- 
sonal property  in  Mexico  was  owned  by  the  Church.  Many 
of  the  finest  buildings,  as  well  as  large  tracts  of  land  in  the 
heart  of  the  large  cities,  belonged  to  the  clergy. 

The  bishops'  palaces  at  Puebla  and  at  the  capital  con- 
tain so  many  deeds,  leases,  etc.,  that  they  remind  one  of  a 
county  clerk's  oflSce,  rather  than  the  residence  of  a  high 
ecclesiastical  dignitary. 

All  churches  and  convents  in  Mexico  are  built  of  the 
most  costly  materials  and  in  the  most  substantial  manner. 
Lofty  towers  are  usually  added  to  the  churches,  and  their 
facades  are  oftentimes  exquisitely  carved.  (See  chapter 
on  architecture.)  The  interior  decorations,  paintings,  fur- 
niture, and  the  services,  are  artistic  in  character.  They 
were  imported  from  Europe  and  transported  by  wagons  for 
distances  varying  from  one  hundred  to  six  hundred  miles 
at  great  expense. 

The  high  altars  as  well  as  the  stalls  of  the  choir  are 
beautifully  carved,  the  former  being  usually  gilded.  Large 
organs  are  found  in  the  cathedrals  and  principal  churches, 
and  occasionally  the  same  building  will  have  two  of  them 
on  oj)i3osite  sides  of  the  choir.  In  the  Morelia*  and  Guada- 
lupe cathedrals,  there  are  silver  railings  around  the  edge  of 
the  high  altar  and  leading  thence  to  the  choir.     Many  of 

*  The  silver  railing  at  Morelia  was  removed  by  the  Liberal  party  during 
the  Reformation. 


132  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

the  doors  in  the  tabernacles  are  made  of  silver.  The  beau- 
tiful tecali,  or  so-called  Mexican  onyx,  is  used  extensively 
for  altars  and  fonts.  (  Vide  chapter  on  Morelia,  in  Section 
IV.)  Most  of  the  churches  are  furnished  with  wooden 
settees.     Prie-dieux  are  unknown. 

A  large  number  of  the  churches  are  rapidly  falling  into 
decay,  and  many  of  them  are  now  used  for  business  pur- 
poses, e.  (J.,  barracks,  warehouses,  marble-works,  etc.  Dur- 
ing his  extensive  tour  through  Mexico,  in  the  winter  and 
spring  of  1883,  the  author  saw  but  a  single  instance  of 
a  church  undergoing  repairs,  viz.,  on  the  plaza  of  Inda- 
parapeo  in  Michoacan.  Several  of  tlie  convents  adjoining 
the  churches  are  at  present  in  ruins,  while  others  have  not 
been  occupied  for  years,  and  some  of  them  are  now  altered 
into  hotels,  as  at  Zacatecas  and  Monterey. 

These  institutions  are  crowded  together  into  the  cities 
and  towns,  none  being  found  in  the  rural  districts  as  in 
Europe.     ( Vide  chapter  on  population. ) 

It  is  a  universal  custom  to  hang  ex  votos  on  the  walls  of 
the  churches.  They  are  either  made  of  silver  or  wax,  or 
consist  of  small  paintings  of  the  Virgin  Mary. 

Various  notices  invoking  pater-nosters,  or  avcs,  for  the 
repose  of  the  souls  of  departed  friends,  or  soliciting  alms 
for  certain  purposes,  are  printed  on  paper  of  several  colors 
and  posted  on  the  main  door  of  the  churches.  Religious 
tracts,  and  ribbons  giving  the  size  of  the  head  of  some  par- 
ticular saiut,  are  sold  at  the  entrance  to  many  of  the  cathe- 
drals and  chapels,  especially  during  the  lenten  season. 

A  typical  church-scene  in  Mexico  is  a  number  of  men 
clothed  in  white-cotton  garments,  with  zarapes  of  variegat- 
ed colors  on  their  shoulders,  with  broad-brimmed  straw  hats 
in  their  hands,  and  wearing  liuaraches,  or  leathern  sandals, 
kneeling  on  a  stone  floor  in  company  with  women  and  girls, 
who  are  dressed  in  calico  and  wear  a  black  shawl  over  the 
head  and  shoulders. 


THE  CHURCH.  133 

The  vestments  worn  by  the  priesthood  while  celebrating 
high  mass  are  very  costly,  and  consist  of  silken  robes  heav- 
ily embroidered  with  gold  and  silver  thread.  When  appear- 
ing in  the  street  the  priests  usually  wear  the  ordinary  cloth 
gown  and  cloak.  It  is,  however,  forbidden  by  law  in  some 
parts  of  the  country,  e.  g.,  in  the  Federal  District,  for 
the  clergy  to  walk  the  streets  in  the  garb  of  their  order. 

As  regards  the  power  of  the  Church  in  Mexico  at  the 
present  day,  it  may  be  said  that  it  is  almost  entirely  lost, 
except  in  a  few  States  like  Michoacan.  The  politicians, 
however,  make  extravagant  promises  to  the  clergy,  in  the 
hope  of  securing  their  good  graces  in  the  elections.  In  the 
northern  States  the  priesthood  are  becoming  less  influential 
from  day  to  day. 

Flag-staffs  have  been  erected  on  the  fagades  of  the  prin- 
cipal churches,  from  which  the  national  colors  are  dis- 
played. In  the  City  of  Mexico  the  ringing  of  bells  is  re- 
stricted by  statute  to  the  period  of  three  minutes  at  one 
time ;  and  the  space  of  one  half  hour  must  elapse  before 
they  can  be  again  sounded. 

The  hold  of  the  Catholic  clergy  on  the  Mexican  people 
is  confined  principally  to  the  laboring  classes.  It  is  a  com- 
mon saying  that,  when  a  peon  earns  two  dollars,  he  gives 
one  dollar  and  forty-five  cents  to  the  priest,  spends  fifty 
cents  for  pulque,  and  supports  his  family  on  the  remainder. 

Among  the  more  highly  educated  classes,  the  men  are 
indifferent  to  religion,  and  oftentimes  refuse  to  allow  their 
wives  and  daughters  to  visit  the  confessional.  They  charge 
that  the  priest  learns  the  pecuniary  condition  of  the  pater- 
familias through  the  female  members  of  the  household. 
In  1882  the  clergy  in  the  Republic  were  estimated  to  num- 
ber ten  thousand. 

Notwithstanding  the  comparatively  long  period  in  which 
the  Liberals  have  been  in  power  in  Mexico,  the  hostility 
between  the  Catholics  and  Protestants  is  as  intense  as  ever. 


134  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

The  priests  still  threaten  to  excommunicate  peons  v/ho  work 
on  buildings  or  farms  owned  by  the  Protestants.  Since 
1870  the  Liberal  Government  has  favored  the  establishment 
of  Protestant  churches  throughout  the  country.  During 
the  administration  of  President  Juarez  a  fine  parish  church 
was  presented  to  the  Protestants  in  the  national  capital. 
Their  missions  have  since  been  founded  in  the  cities  of 
Puebla,  Cuernavaca,  Zacatecas,  and  Monterey. 

As  recently  as  December,  1882,  a  collision  took  place 
between  the  Roman  Catholics  and  Protestants  at  Zacatecas. 
The  former  attempted  to  demolish  a  chapel  which  was 
owned  by  the  latter,  when  the  military  came  to  the  rescue 
and  dispersed  the  rioters  with  bloodshed.  The  State  gov- 
ernments are  generally  disposed  to  protect  the  Protestants, 
and  accordingly  offer  convict-labor  to  complete  their  houses 
of  worship,  when  the  peons  can  not  be  employed.*  In 
Chihuahua  the  Americans  now  attend  divine  service  at  the 
residence  of  the  pastor,  the  Eev.  Mr.  Eaton. 

N.  B. — Foreigners,  intending  to  engage  in  either  min- 
ing or  farming  in  Mexico,  are  strongly  advised  to  concili- 
ate the  padre,  as  he  is  usually  the  most  influential  person 
in  small  towns  and  villages.  Considering  the  influence  of 
the  clergy  on  the  lower  classes,  discourteous  treatment 
of  the  priest  may  result  in  the  refusal  of  the  peons  to 
work  for  the  offending  individual. 


L. 
Jurisprudence. 

The  Roman  law  prevails  in  Mexico,  and  a  code,  based 
upon  the  Code  Napoleon,  has  been  adopted. 

There  is  a  written  Constitution  and  a  system  of  statutes 

*  The  chapel  at  Zacatecas  was  rebuilt  by  convicts. 


JURISPRUDENCE.  135 

for  the  Eepublic.  Each  State  has  also  its  own  laws,  which 
are  administered  independently  of  those  of  the  Federal 
Government.  Trial  by  jury  occurs  in  criminal  cases  only. 
Felonies  are  punished  by  long  terms  of  imprisonment, 
while  the  penalty  for  misdemeanors  is  generally  a  fine 
ranging  from  twenty-five  cents  to  several  hundred  dollars. 
The  former  amount  is  the  equivalent  of  one  day's  wages 
for  certain  classes  of  laborers. 

Of  late  years,  the  authorities  have  ordered  a  great  many 
brigands  to  be  shot  without  a  trial.  In  the  State  of  Zaca- 
tecas,  two  hundred  persons,  who  were  known  to  be  bandits, 
are  said  to  have  been  killed  in  a  single  year. 

Life  and  property  are  now  as  safe  in  Mexico  as  in  the 
United  States. 

Europeans  residing  in  Mexico  complain  of  the  system 
of  keeping  prisoners  in  close  confinement  for  a  long  period 
tvWiout  a  trial.  The  prisons  are  damp  and  unhealthy, 
and  the  fare  is  of  the  worst  quality. 

The  rules  of  practice  for  filing  documents  in  the  public 
offices  are  different  from  those  of  the  United  States.  Ori- 
ginal wills,  deeds,  mortgages,  etc.,  must  be  recorded  in 
blank  books  and  deposited  in  the  proper  office.  These  are 
provided  by  the  municipal  government.  None  but  inter- 
ested persons  can  obtain  copies  of  them.  Deeds  and  other 
instruments  executed  as  far  back  as  the  year  1540  are  on 
file  in  the  register's  office  of  a  few  cities. 

All  deeds,  leases,  contracts,  etc.,  must  be  executed  be- 
fore a  notary  {escribano  puMico). 

Stamps  must  be  affixed  to  all  kinds  of  instruments,  and 
a  rubrica,  or  dash  of  the  pen,  must  be  added  to  a  signature 
to  make  it  legal. 

At  present  aliens  can  take  real  estate  by  deed  and  de- 
vise, but  they  can  not  own  land  within  twenty  leagues  of 
the  frontier  line,  or  less  than  fifteen  miles  from  the  coast, 
except  by  special  permission  of  the  Executive. 


136  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

"Any  foreigner  who  desires  permission  to  own  real  estate  within 
the  above-mentioned  limits,  must  address  his  petition  to  the  Secre- 
tary of  Public  Works  at  the  City  of  Mexico,  accompanied  by  a  report 
from  the  government  of  the  State  or  Territory  where  the  property 
is  situated. 

"  The  foreign  proprietor  of  real  estate  forfeits  his  rights  of  pos- 
session under  any  of  the  following  circumstances : 

"  1st.  By  being  away  from  the  Eepublic  with  his  family  for 
more  than  two  years  without  permission  from  the  General  Govern- 
ment. 

"  2d.  By  residing  outside  of  the  Republic,  even  though  he  has 
a  representative  residing  upon  his  property  or  in  the  Republic. 

"  3d.  By  transferring  or  conveying  said  property  by  inherit- 
ance or  any  other  means  to  any  person  non-resident  in  the  Re- 
public. 

"  Any  foreign  property-owner,  who  may  fall  into  any  of  the  three 
conditions  above  stipulated,  is  compelled  to  sell  his  real  estate  to 
a  Mexican  citizen,  within  two  years  from  the  date  of  his  absence 
from  the  Republic;  or,  in  case  he  fails  to  comply  with  this  pre- 
scription, the  public  authority  will  effect  the  sale  of  the  property, 
depositing  the  proceeds  of  it  to  the  order  of  the  owner  of  the 
property.  If  said  sale  has  been  made  by  '  denouncement '  of  the 
property,  one  tenth  of  the  proceeds  shall  go  to  the  person  who 
made  the  '  denouncement '  and  the  balance  to  the  absent  for- 
eigner. .  .  .  Aliens  who  are  members  of  a  mining  company  that 
has  either  discovered  or  reopened  any  abandoned  miue  are  exempt 
from  these  rules. 

"  Foreigners  who  have  acquired  real  estate  from  private  owners, 
or  the  Government  of  Mexico,  are  subject  to  all  kinds  of  taxation, 
and  are  bound  to  do  military  duty  whenever  called  upon  to  protect 
the  property  they  have  acquired,  or  preserve  public  order  and  tran- 
quillity in  the  i)lace  where  they  reside,  and  are  bound  to  take  part 
in  the  elucidation  of  all  questions  that  may  arise  in  regard  to  said 
property,  according  to  the  existing  laws,  and  before  the  tribunals  of 
Mexico,  without  ever  appealing  to  their  rights  of  foreign  citizenship, 
or  to  any  intervention  from  a  foreign  power." 

"  Grantees  of  public  lands  are  compelled  to  locate  on  their  grant 


EDUCATION.  137 

at  least  one  inhabitant  for  every  two  hundred  hectares,*  who  shall 
reside  thereon  without  interruption  during  ten  years,  not  being  ab- 
sent more  than/bwr"  months  during  each  year.  In  failing  to  comply 
with  this  clause  of  the  law,  they  will  forfeit  their  right  to  the  land, 
as  well  as  the  price  paid  for  it. 

"  Any  person  enabled  to  hold  property  by  'denouncement'  of 
public  lands  can  not  obtain  more  than  2,500  hectares,!  by  virtue  of 
the  law  of  limitation,  until  he  has  had  possession  of  the  land  for  ten 
years,  and  has  complied  with  the  other  requisites  of  law,  and  those 
prescribed  in  the  above  clause." 

These  extracts  from  the  laws  of  Mexico  are  taken  from 
Castro's  RejmbUc  of  Mexico,  pp.  188-190. 

Lawyers  who  have  taken  a  degree  are  termed  licencia- 
dos.  The  leading  counselors  of  the  principal  cities  can  gen- 
erally speak  English.  Very  few  foreigners  have  thus  far 
begun  the  practice  of  law  in  the  Eepublic.  Excepting  the 
Supreme  Court  at  the  capital  (Suprema  Corte),  the  court- 
rooms are  open  to  the  public.  The  judges  sit  from  9  to 
12  A.  M.,  and  from  3  to  5  p.  m.  The  Jurisdiction  of  the 
inferior  tribunals  (juzgados)  resembles  that  of  the  county 
courts  of  the  United  States. 

For  further  information  on  the  laws  of  Mexico,  con- 
sult the  following  Spanish  works  :  Ul  Protocolo,  El  Co- 
digo,  El  Nuevo  Escribano  Instruido,  Las  Ordenanzas  de 
Tierras  y  Aguas,  and  Las  Ordenanzas  de  Miner ia.  The 
latter  consists  of  mining  laws. 


LI. 

Education. 


TJNFORTUisrATELT,  a  Small  portion  only  of  the  Mexi- 
can people  are  able  to  read  and  write.     The  number  of 

*  494^  acres.  f  6,l'7'7i  acres. 


138  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

illiterate  persons  can  only  be  estimated,  as  there  are  no 
accurate  census  returns.  "We  are  of  the  opinion  that  it 
amounts  to  6,500,000,  or  about  two  thirds  of  the  entire 
population. 

Colleges  {colegios)  have  been  established  in  the  principal 
cities  for  many  years.  There  are  schools  of  the  arts,  of 
law,  of  medicine,  and  of  science.  The  Colegio  de  llitieria, 
or  mining  school,  in  the  capital,  was  founded  about  th'e 
close  of  the  last  century.  (See  chapter  on  the  City  of 
Mexico  in  Part  Second.) 

The  traveler  should  not,  however,  be  misled  by  this 
term  ''colegio.'"  It  is  often  used  in  the  rural  districts  as 
synonymous  with  "  school,"  very  much  as  it  used  to  be  in 
the  Western  States  of  the  Union.  Soon  after  the  French 
invasion,  a  common-school  system  similar  to  that  of  the 
United  States  was  introduced  into  Mexico.  The  English 
language  is  now  generally  taught,  and  even  many  business 
men  are  studying  it  with  a  private  tutor.  A  few  industrial 
schools  have  been  established  in  the  larger  cities.  Mexican 
children  are  said  to  be  very  docile  pupils,  and  in  the  hands 
of  good  instructors  they  learn  readily.  Among  the  wealthier 
families,  it  is  common  for  parents  to  send  their  sons  abroad 
to  be  educated,  as  to  New  York,  London,  or  Paris  ;  and  a 
few  Mexican  students  may  be  found  in  the  universities  and 
mining  schools  of  Germany. 

Young  women  and  girls  attend  only  the  parochial  schools 
of  the  country,  and  the  higher  education  is  unknown  among 
them.  The  completion  of  the  American  trunk-lines  of  rail- 
road may  tend  to  increase  the  number  of  young  men  who 
go  to  the  United  States  annually  to  ''finish"  their  educa- 
tion. 

The  following  table  is  taken  from  Castro's  Republic  of 
Mexico,  p.  200.  It  shows  the  number  of  public  schools  in 
the  States  and  the  Territory  of  Lower  California,  and  the 
cost  of  their  maintenance  for  the  year  1880  : 


NEWSPAPERS. 


139 


1.  Ag-uascalientes 

2.  Oampeche 

8.  Coahuila 

4.  Colima 

5.  Chiapas 

6.  Chihuahua 

7.  Durante 

8.  Guaniijuato 

9.  Guerrero 

10.  Hidalgo 

11.  Jalisco 

12.  Mexico 

13.  Michoacan 

14.  Morelos 

15.  Nuevo-Leon 

10.  Oaxaca 

IT.  Puebla 

18.  Queretaro 

19.  San  Luis  Potosi 

20.  Sinaloa  

21.  Sonora 

22.  Tabasco 

23.  Tlaxcala 

24.  Tamaulipas 

25.  Vera  Cruz 

26.  Yucatan 

27.  Zacatecas 

Ter'y  of  Lower  California, 

Total 


53 
43 
70 

18 
78 
73 
95 
176 
392 
412 
439 
887 
1.54 
47 
181 
234 
889 
101 
183 
238 


176 
60 
580 
163 
311 
17 


26 
14 
80 
17 
12 
40 
80 

145 
28 
76 

275 

181 
89 
40 

104 
47 

118 
62 
56 
42 
25 
17 
18 


178 


79 

57 
100 

85 

90 
113 
125 
321 
420 
518 
714 
1.068 
243 

87 
285 
281 
1,007 
163 
239 
280 
105 

65 
194 

60 
729 
202 
489 

26 


6,228    1,867     8,095    307,559 


4,800 

8,600 

5,230 

1.452 

2,125 

8,350 

3,102 

10,754 

13,006 

15,819 

28,376 

41,321 

7,000 

8.209 

8.928 

16,420 

50.320 

6.271 

9.4S6 

6,000 

3.500 

2,695 

8,100 

4,000 

20,021 

8,659 

13,738 

677 


i5  i 


1,200 

700 

2,127 

1,502 

500 

928 

1,350 

7,045 

1,755 

3,371 

11,160 

10,245 

3.200 

5,387 

4,732 

3,296 

15,000 

2,922 

3,690 

2,600 

740 

525 

1,550 

5,937 

2,643 

6,653 

367 


6,000 
4.300 
7,357 
2,954 
2,625 
4,278 
4.452 
17,799 
14,761 
19,190 
39,536 
51,566 
10.200 
13.596 
13,660 
19,716 
65,320 
9,193 
13,176 
9.200 
4,240 
3,220 
9,650 
4,000 
25,958 
11,302 
20,391 
1,044 


101,125    408,684    1,510,446 


$10,000 
15,000 
26,000 
18,000 
10,000 
28,473 
20,000 
81,886 
34.965 
82,287 

100,000 

187.216 
52.756 
22,866 
68,000 
50,982 

153,000 
30,000 
4(»,000 
58,000 
20,01)0 
20,000 
20,000 
10,000 

218,985 
50,000 
72,000 
10,000 


LIT. 
Newspapers. 

About  sixty  newspapers  are  published  iu  Mexico.  Most 
of  tliem  are  printed  in  Spanish,  and  some  are  in  French  and 
111  English.  In  the  City  of  Mexico  there  are  several  daily 
papers  in  Spanish  and  two  in  French.  The  Monitor  Re- 
puhlicano,  which  has  an  edition  of  about  seven  thousand 
copies,  is  said  to  have  the  largest  circulation,  while  that 
of  many  of  the  other  newspapers  does  not  exceed  five 
hundred.  One  semi-weekly  English  paper,  Tlie  Two  Re- 
ptiblics,  and  one  weekly  journal  half  in  Spanish  and  half 


140  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

in  English,  Tlie  Financier,  are  also  published  at  the  na- 
tional capital.  A  few  American  newspapers  may  be  found 
in  Chihuahua.  All  of  them  devote  a  large  space  to  adver- 
tisements. 

Under  the  administration  of  Santa  Anna  began  the 
subsidy  of  the  press.  Subventions  are  now  given  to  papers 
that  can  not  be  published  except  at  a  loss. 

Formerly  a  special  jury  took  cognizance  of  the  offenses 
of  the  press,  but  a  constitutional  amendment  passed  in 
1883  brings  these  offenses  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  or- 
dinary courts. 


Lin. 
Miscellaneous, 


America:^  consuls  or  vice-consuls  reside  at  the  follow- 
ing towns  : 

Atapulco,  Batopilas,  Camargo,  Campeche,  Chihuahua, 
Guadalupe  y  Calvo,  Guaymas,  Guerrero,  La  Paz,  Manzanillo, 
Matamoros,  Mazatlan,  Merida  and  Sisal,  Mexico,  Minatit- 
lan,  Monterey,  Musquiz,  Nuevo  Laredo,  Paso  del  Norte, 
Piedras  Negras,  Progreso,  Saltillo,  San  Bias,  San  Jose, 
San  Luis  Potosi,  Tampico,  Tuxpan,  Vera  Cruz,  and  Za- 
catecas. 

There  are  no  English  consuls,  but  the  British  Govern- 
ment employs  private  agents. 

Doctors  intending  to  practice  in  the  Mexican  Republic 
should  learn  at  least  one  language  besides  Spanish,  i.  e., 
either  French  or  English. 

Reliable  interpreters  can  be  found  in  tlie  princijial  cities 
only. 

The  value  of  real  estate  is  increasing  in  the  large  cities. 
The  landlords  are  unwilling  to  sell  unless  at  an  exorbitant 
price ;  accordingly,  foreigners  intending  to  engage  in  trade 


MISCELLANEOUS.  141 

or  manufacturing  will  do  well  to  lease  property  for  long 
terms,  instead  of  purchasing  it. 

In  1881  the  value  of  city  property  was $109,684,376  52 

And  that  of  rural  property  was 181,873,994  04 

Total $351,558,370  56 

Americans  in  Northern  Mexico,  especially  in  Chihua- 
hua, have  been  charged  with  a  want  of  due  respect  for  the 
local  authorities.  They  have  invested  largely  in  mines  and 
ranches,  and  are  unwilling  to  be  controlled  by  the  laws  of 
the  country.  On  August  1,  1883,  a  dispatch  from  Paso 
del  Norte  to  a  New  York  journal  disclosed  a  new  scheme 
for  the  acquisition  of  a  part  of  Mexico  by  the  United  States. 
The  plan  is  as  follows  :  When  Congress  meets  next  winter, 
the  Americans  in  Chihuahua,  said  to  number  ten  thousand, 
are  to  ''pronounce"  a  dissolution  of  the  relations  of  that 
State  with  Mexico,  establish  a  local  State  government,  and 
apply  for  admission  to  the  United  States.  This  scheme  is 
discredited  by  those  who  are  in  a  position  to  know  the  facts. 
It  is  to  be  hoped  that  every  honest  man  in  the  United 
States,  and,  above  all,  that  our  Government,  will  sternly 
oppose  this  or  any  other  scheme  for  despoiling  our  neigh- 
bors of  their  territory. 

BUSIKESS   OPPORTUNITIES. 

Capital  may  be  advantageously  invested  in  Mexico  as 
follows  : 

1.  In  cattle  and  sheep  ranches. 

2.  In  water  companies  for  irrigation. 

3.  In  the  manufacture  of  paper.  (There  are  but  three 
or  four  kinds  of  paper  made  in  Mexico.  Nearly  all  the 
white  paper  is  imported.) 

4.  In  woolen  and  cotton  mills. 


142  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

5.  In  the  manufacture  of  hardware  and  machinery. 
(The  duty  on  hardware  is  enormous.) 

6.  In  the  improvement  of  harbors  and  the  construction 
of  wharves.  (Many  of  the  harbors  might,  at  a  small  ex- 
pense, be  rendered  navigable  for  large  vessels.) 

7.  In  the  organization  of  district-telegraph,  telephone, 
and  electric-light  companies.  (The  former  are  unknown. 
There  are  a  few  of  the  others.) 

8.  In  erecting  hotels  with  all  the  modern  conveniences. 
(First-class  hotels  are  very  rare.) 

9.  In  the  culture  of  sugar,  coffee,  tobacco,  cotton,  and 
fruit. 

10.  In  opening  the  numerous  wells  of  petroleum,  and 
in  refining  the  article.  (Two  refineries  have  just  been 
erected  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz.  Petroleum  is  destined 
to  be  a  great  source  of  wealth  to  Mexico.  In  1882,  1,300,- 
000  gallons  were  exjDorted  from  New  York  to  Vera  Cruz. 
The  country  is  capable  of  exporting  this  commodity  to 
Europe,  besides  producing  enough  for  home  consumption.) 

We  have  omitted  to  name  the  mining  of  the  various 
ores,  as  foreigners  have  invested  largely  in  the  Mexican 
mines. 

STANDAKD   BOOKS   ON"   MEXICO. 

Clavigero,  Storia  Antica  del  Messico. 
Bernal  Diaz,  Historia  de  la  Conquista. 
Sahagun,  Historia  Universal  de  Nueva  Espaila. 
Veytia,  Historia  Antigua  de  Mejico. 
Ilerrera,  History  of  America. 
Solis,  Conquest  of  Mexico. 
Kingsborough,  Mexican  Antiquities. 
ITumboMt,  Political  Essay  on  Neio  Spain. 
Humboldt,  Atlas  de  la  Nouvelle  Espayne. 
Dupaix,  Antiquites  Mexicaines. 

Stephens,  Incidents  of  Travel  in  Central  America, 
Chiapas,  and  Yucatan. 


WMAT  MEXICO  NEEDS.  143 

"Ward,  Mexico  in  1827. 

Calderon  de  la  Barca,  Life  in  Mexico, 

Prescott,  Conquest  of  Mexico. 

Chevalier,  Mexico,  Ancient  and  Modern. 

Wilson,  Mexico  and  its  Religion. 

"Wilson,  History  of  the  Conquest  of  Mexico. 

Tempsky,  Mitla,  Adventures  in  Mexico,  etc. 

Buxton,  Adventures  in  Mexico. 

Bullock,  Six  Months  in  Mexico. 

Brantz-Mayer,  Mexico,  as  it  was  and  as  it  is. 

Haven,  Our  Next-Door  Neighbor. 

Lucas-Alaman,  Historia  de  Mejico. 

Zamacois,  Historia  de  Mejico. 

The  New  American  Cyclopgedia,  article  on  Mexico. 


LIV. 
What  Mexico  needs. 


That  Mexico  may  assume  an  elevated  rank  in  the  fam- 
ily of  nations,  two  conditions  are  necessary  :  first,  the  educa- 
tion and  elevation  of  the  mass  of  her  population  ;  second, 
the  development  of  her  unequaled  natural  resources. 

According  to  an  eminent  American  statesman  and  di- 
plomatist,* "  of  the  ten  millions  of  people  in  Mexico,  fully 
three  quarters  are  Indians,  two  thirds  of  whom  can  not 
read,  nor  ever  had  an  ancestor  that  could,  who  never  slept 
in  a  bed  or  wore  a  stocking,  and  who  are  accustomed  to 
live  at  a  less  expense  per  day  than  a  farm-horse  would  cost 
in  any  New  England  State." 

Comprising  a  territorial  area  sixteen  times  greater  in 
extent  than  that  of  the  State  of  New  York,  every  vari- 
ety of  climate,  and,  consequently,  every  vegetable  product 

*  The  Hon.  John  Bigelow. 


144  GENERAL  INFOBMATIOK. 

which  is  found  between  the  equator  and  the  Arctic  Circle, 
may  be  said  to  exist  Avithin  her  borders.  !N"or  is  this  aU. 
Besides  having  yielded  one  half  of  the  existing  stock  of 
silver  in  the  world,  her  mines  are  still  believed  to  be  the 
richest  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  Her  deposits  of  iron  are 
unsurpassed  in  quantity  and  quality.  To  these  are  to  be 
added  every  other  metal  which  science  has  enumerated. 

How,  then,  shall  the  matchless  vegetable  and  mineral 
resources  of  the  Kepublic  be  developed  ?  That  Northern 
enterprise,  industry,  and  capital  will  become  important  fac- 
tors in  the  solution  of  the  problem  there  is  little  room  to 
doubt.  The  introduction  of  the  most  approved  agricul- 
tural implements  and  processes,  as  well  as  of  the  most  ap- 
proved methods  of  treating  the  ores,  will,  of  course,  increase 
many  fold  the  productions  in  both  departments  of  labor. 
Yet,  under  existing  circumstances,  such  a  result  would  be 
neither  useful  nor  profitable.  Indeed,  without  the  open- 
ing of  new  fields  of  industry,  and  of  new  avenues  for  plac- 
ing the  surplus  products  in  the  markets  of  the  world,  an 
increase  of  production  might  even  prove  disastrous.  In  his 
recent  elaborate  publication  entitled  Raihoays  in  Jfexico, 
Seuor  Eomero,  the  Mexican  Minister  at  Washington,  perti- 
nently remarks  :  **  A  year  of  good  crops  in  Mexico  is  a  real 
calamity  in  many  of  the  agricultural  districts,  as  the  pro- 
duction in  that  year  far  exceeds  the  consumption  of  the 
immediate  neighborhood  ;  and  grain  can  not  be  sent  to  any 
distance  on  account  of  the  high  cost  of  transportation." 

Happily,  the  first  and  most  essential  step  has  already 
been  taken  to  j^rovide  adequate  means  of  transportation  for 
all  the  surplus  products  of  the  country.  The  great  lines 
of  railway  which  are  now  rapidly  approaching  completion, 
together  with  those  which  have  been  begun  under  the 
auspices  of  General  Grant,  Mr.  Gould,  and  other  experi- 
enced railroad  managers,  connecting,  as  they  do,  with  the 
roads  of  this  country,  will  become  an  integral  part  of  a 


WHAT  MEXICO  NEEDS.  145 

system  which  is  infinitely  the  grandest  and  most  extensive 
in  the  world.  Supplemented  as  these  great  avenues  of 
trade  and  travel  will  be  by  innumerable  turnpikes,  which 
will  form  so  many  lateral  tributaries,  and  for  the  construc- 
tion of  which  the  face  of  the  country  affords  exceptional 
facilities,  their  influence  will  be  felt  throughout  the  length 
and  breadth  of  the  land. 

But  what  Mexico  needs,  far  more  than  the  expansion  of 
her  physical  resources,  is  the  elevation  of  the  toiling  millions 
of  her  people.  This  result  can  only  be  achieved  by  their 
education,  not  alone  in  the  lessons  of  the  schools,  but  in 
the  various  branches  of  skilled  industry  and  in  social  prog- 
ress and  enlightenment. 

Thus  far  almost  the  only  step  which  has  been  taken 
toward  the  intellectual  culture  of  the  young  has  been  to 
provide  schools  for  the  training  of  the  children  of  Spanish 
blood.  Surely  it  requires  no  argument,  in  our  day,  to 
prove  that  the  facilities  for  acquiring  at  least  the  element- 
ary l)ranches  of  education  ought  to  be  placed  within  the 
reach  of  every  child,  without  reference  to  color,  creed,  or 
lineage. 

This  accomplished,  the  proper  steps  ought  to  be,  and 
doubtless  will  be,  taken  to  vest  the  ownership  of  the  soil 
in  its  cultivators.  The  present  land-tenure  is  what  might 
reasonably  be  expected  from  the  history  of  the  country. 
Three  centuries  and  a  half  ago  the  Spanish  adventurers 
wrested  it  by  force  from  the  natives,  and  they  and  their 
descendants,  almost  without  exception,  have  held  it  by  the 
strong  arm  of  power  ever  since. 

Of  all  the  lessons  of  history,  none  is  more  emphatic 
than  that  the  ownership  of  the  soil  by  its  cultivators  is 
essential  to  a  successful  and  profitable  agriculture.  The 
history  of  France  before  the  outbreak  of  the  Eevolution  in 
the  year  1789,  the  history  of  the  British  Islands,  that  of 
Ireland  in  particular,  and  our  own  experience  as  a  nation 
1 


146  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

during  the  existence  of  negro  slayer j,  are  all  full  of  instruc- 
tion upon  this  point. 

It  may,  indeed,  be  doubted  whether  any  other  measure 
of  public  policy  so  imperatively  demands  a  wise  and  liberal 
adjustment  as  the  settlement  of  the  land-tenure.  If  others 
than  the  Mexicans  are  to  inhabit  the  country  in  the  future, 
it  requires  no  soothsayer  to  predict  that  this  course  will  be 
found  to  be  indisi^ensable. 

One  of  the  first  fruits  of  the  diversified  industry  spring- 
ing from  the  new  departure  will  be  better  wages,  better 
food,  better  clothing,  and  better  houses  for  the  toiling 
millions.  Following  these  will  come  the  intelligent  ]3ar- 
ticipation  of  every  adult  male  citizen  in  the  administration 
of  public  affairs.  That  best  of  all  guarantees  for  the  pres- 
ervation of  civil  liberty  and  social  order — the  co-operation 
of  all  classes  of  citizens  for  the  protection  of  the  rights  of 
person  and  property — will  come  next  in  course.  Eevolutions 
and  brigandage,  which  have  so  long  been  the  curse  and  op- 
probrium of  Mexico,  will  no  longer  be  possible.  A  perma- 
nent government  "  of  the  people,  by  the  people,  and  for  the 
people,"  will  do  away  these  and  all  kindred  abuses.  Thus 
will  a  new  impetus  be  given  to  the  cause  of  free  govern- 
ment throusfhout  the  world. 


PART    SECOND. 
CITIES  A]^D    EOUTES   OF  TRAVEL. 


SECTIOI^    I. 
Mexico. 

HOW   TO    REACH   THE    COUNTRY. 

We  give  below  the  various  routes  from  New  York  to 
Mexico,  by  steamshiji  and  railroad,  and  partly  by  steamer 
and  partly  by  rail : 

Route  I. — From  New  York  via  Havana,  Progreso, 
Campeclie,  and  Frontera,  to  Vera  Cruz,  by  steamer,  in 
about  ten  days. 

EouTE  II. — From  New  York  to  New  Orleans  by  rail  in 
about  sixty  hours,  thence  steamer  to  Vera  Cruz  in  about 
five  days,  calling  at  Bagdad,  Tampico,  and  Tuxpan. 

Route  III. — From  New  York  to  Laredo,  Texas  (on  the 
Rio  Grande),  by  rail  in  four  days  ;  or  to  El  Paso,  Texas, 
via  St.  Louis,  in  about  the  same  time. 

Route  I. 
NEW   YORK  to   VERA   CRUZ    BY  STEAMER. 

Fares,  first  class,  $85 ;  second  class,  $60. 

Leaving  New  York,  the  steamer  reaches  Havana  in. 
about  four  days.  A  stop  of  an  entire  day  is  generally 
made  at  Havana  before  proceeding  to  the  Mexican  ports, 


148  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OP  TRAVEL. 

The  tourist  will  not  only  have  time  to  see  the  city,  but  can 
also  visit  the  wonderful  caves  of  Matanzas  and  the  valley  of 
Yumuri,  distant  two  hours  by  rail.  (For  a  full  descrii^tion 
of  Cuba  and  the  West  Indies,  see  Appletons'  Hmid-Book 
of  Winter  Resorts.) 

From  Havana  the  steamer  proceeds  to  Progreso,  in 
Yucatan,*  arriving  there  in  about  thirty-six  hours,  and 
stopping  about  twenty-four  hours.  The  traveler  can  now 
disembark  in  a  small  boat,  and  set  foot  on  Mexican  soil. 
Progreso  is  the  seaport  of  the  city  of  Iferida,  twenty-two 
miles  distant.  There  is  no  hotel  accommodation  in  Pro- 
greso, but  the  American  consul  can  assist  the  tourist  in 
securing  lodgings.  The  town  is  well  laid  out,  and  has 
straight  and  broad  streets.  Tourists  will  be  interested  in 
the  scenes  of  the  fruit  and  vegetable  markets  on  the  j9?a2;a. 
The  houses  are  usually  of  one  story,  and  are  built  of  mor- 
tar, with  thatched  roofs. 

Indians  constitute  the  greater  j)art  of  the  populatio)i, 
which  amounts  to  1,900  inhabitants.  Much  hemp,  rice, 
and  maize  are  grown  in  Northern  Yucatan.  Upward  of 
90,000  bales  of  hemp  are  sent  to  the  United  States  annually. 
Cacti  and  cocoa-palms  are  found  in  great  abundance  near 
Progreso.  The  tourist  may  have  the  opportunity  of  bath- 
ing in  the  warm  surf  before  leaving  town. 

A  railroad  has  recently  f  been  completed  to  the  city  of 
Merida  (fares,  first  class,  $1  ;  second  class,  75  cents).  This 
is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Yucatan,  and  has  about  32,000 
inhabitants.     It  is  built  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Ifaya 

*  Prescott  states  in  the  Conquest  of  Mexico^  vol.  i,  p.  222,  that  Yucatan 
is  a  corruption  of  the  word  "  tcctecan,"  meaninp;,  in  the  Maya  language,  I 
do  not  understand.  This  term  was  the  reply  which  the  Spanish  navigators 
received  upon  landing  on  the  coast,  when  they  asked  the  natives  the  name 
of  the  country.  Supposing  it  to  be  a  direct  answer  to  their  question,  the 
S])aniards  called  the  nevvljr  discovered  region  Yucatan. 

t  In  188J. 


MEXICO.  149 

city  of  Tilioo.  Few  travelers  visit  Merida,  and  hence  there 
is  only  one  small  hotel  there  {Hotel  Bazar).  Several  lines 
of  railway  are  being  constructed  from  tliis  city  to  points  in 
the  interior.  The  road  toward  Peto,  on  the  south,  is  now 
(July,  1883)  20  miles  long ;  that  going  to  Valladolid,  on 
the  southeast,  has  been  built  for  a  distance  of  ten  miles  ; 
and  seven  miles  of  the  line  toward  (Jalhini,  on  the  soutli- 
west,  have  been  finished. 

A  concession  has  Just  been  granted  to  some  residents  of 
Merida  to  construct  a  railway  from  the  capital  to  Sotuta, 
via  Izamal. 

Many  interesting  ruins  are  found  in  the  northern  and 
central  parts  of  Yucatan.  Tourists  intending  to  visit  them 
should  purchase  horses  and  provisions  at  Merida,  and  obtain 
letters  of  iutrodviction  {cartas  de  prcsetitacioji)  to  the  offi- 
cials in  the  various  towns.  The  most  important  ruined 
city  is  that  of  UxmaJ,  about  70  miles  south  of  Merida. 
The  cave  of  Saliacliao  is  within  a  few  miles  of  it.  The 
remains  of  Cliiclien-Itza  and  Izamal  lie  about  50  miles 
southeast  of  the  capital,  and  those  of  Mayapan  are  situated 
about  30  miles  south  of  Merida.  These  places  are  com- 
paratively easy  of  access.  There  are  also  interesting  though 
less  extensive  ruins  at  Lahna,  Zayi,  Xcoch,  and  Ake,  in 
Central  and  Southern  Yucatan;  but  these  localities  have 
been  rarely  visited  tlius  far  by  American  or  European  trav- 
elers. (See  chapter  on  ruins  for  a  general  descrijition  of 
these  ancient  cities  and  towns.) 

Humboldt  states  that  Yucatan  is  an  arid  plateau,  whose 
surface  does  not  rise  higher  than  5,070  feet  above  the  sea- 
level.  The  greater  part  of  the  State  is  covered  with  allu- 
vial soil,  and  the  climate  is  dry.  Water  is  very  scarce 
and  valuable,  there  being  only  one  river,  the  Rio  Hondo. 
The  rainy  season  lasts  from  April  to  October,  during  which 
time  the  reservoirs  and  tanks  of  the  haciendas  are  filled  for 
use  in  the  remaining  months  of  the  year. 


150 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


From  Progreso  the  steamer  takes  a  southwesterly  course, 
and  touches  at  Campeclie,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  the 
same  name,  and  then  proceeds  to  Frontera,  in  Tabasco. 
Cortes  landed  near  the  latter  town  on  his  voyage  from  Cuba 
to  Mexico. 

Large  quantities  of  logwood  are  exported  from  Fron- 
tera. The  tourist  may  leave  the  steamer  at  this  point,  and 
visit  the  famous  ruins  of  Palenque,  which  are  situated  about 
150  miles  to  the  southeast.     The  journey,  however,  is  a  dif- 


A  Tropical  Jungle. 


ficult  one,  and  a  small  boat  must  be  hired  to  ascend  the  Usu- 
macinta  Eiver.  Guides,  provisions,  blankets,  tents,  medi- 
cines, etc.,  should  be  taken  from  Frontera.  Travelers  may 
also  proceed  to  San  Juan  Bautida,  the  capital  of  the  State 
of  Tabasco  (population,  0,800),  and  visit  PaUnque  by  road. 


MEXICO.  151 

Steamers  do  not  toucli  at  the  ports  of  Campeche  and 
Froniera  on  every  trip.  (See  time-table  for  exact  dates  of 
arrival.)  The  vessels  anchor  about  five  miles  from  the 
shore,  and  only  stop  long  enough  to  transfer  passengers, 
mail,  and  cargo  to  a  small  tender,  and  then  continue  on 
the  direct  route  to  Vera  Cruz,  reacliing  this  port  in  about 
ten  days  out  from  New  York,  including  stoppages. 

Approaching  Vera  Cruz,  the  snow-clad  peak  of  Orizaba 
may  be  distinctly  seen  at  a  distance  of  50  miles  on  a  clear 
day,  and  the  Cofre  de  Perote,  another  snow-capped  mount- 
ain, is  also  visible. 

The  Mexican  coast  is  dangerous  for  navigators,  on  ac- 
count of  coral  reefs.  Just  before  reaching  Vera  Cruz,  we 
pass  an  island  on  the  south  side  of  the  town.  It  is  the 
Isla  de  los  Sacrificios,  and  is  said  to  have  been  used  by  the 
Aztecs  for  sacrificing  a  youth  on  a  certain  day  in  every 
year. 

The  other  island  directly  opposite  the  city  of  Vera  Cruz 
is  Sa7i  Juan  de  Uloa.  It  was  so  named  by  Grijalva.  This 
islet  is  covered  with  a  fort,  which  was  begun  by  the  Span- 
iards in  1569,  and  finished  in  1633.  Hernando  Cortes 
landed  here  on  April  21,  1519.  The  fort  is  now  used  as  a 
prison.  Presently  the  steamer  drops  anchor.  As  soon  as 
the  health-officer  has  examined  the  vessel,  and  given  the 
captain  a  clean  bill  of  health,  a  large  number  of  boats  sur- 
round her,  and  the  owners  rush  on  board,  ofl'ering  their 
services  to  the  passengers  who  are  about  to  go  ashore. 

There  is  no  fixed  price  for  disembarking  at  Vei'a  Cruz, 
and  the  traveler  should  make  a  bargain  with  a  boatman 
before  leaving  the  steamer,  to  pay  him  so  much  for  taking 
his  baggage  ashore,  and  also  to  the  custom-liouse  and  liotel. 
A  boatman  will  take  a  single  passenger  for  a  Mexican  dol- 
lar, including  the  conveyance  of  his  baggage  to  the  hotel ; 
and,  if  a  large  party  go  in  the  same  boat,  an.  arrangement  at 
a  reduced  price  can  be  made  ;pro  rata. 


152  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

It  is  impossible  to  laud  at  Vera  Cruz  during  a  norther, 
which  blows  at  intervals  from  October  to  March.  Tour- 
ists may  be  compelled  to  remain  several  days  on  the 
steamship  waiting  for  the  waves  to  subside.  Neither  sail- 
ing-vessels nor  steamers  can  enter  this  port  while  the  north- 
er lasts.  Vera  Cruz  has  really  no  harbor  at  all,  although 
the  two  islands  already  mentioned  afford  some  protection 
to  the  shipping  during  a  storm.  Vessels  at  anchor  gener- 
ally put  to  sea  during  a  severe  norther.  It  has  often  been 
said  that  Cortes  should  have  founded  the  city  of  Vera  Cruz 
at  Anton  Lizarclo,  a  point  about  fifteen  miles  to  the  south- 
ward, which  is  the  only  good  harbor  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
The  latter  place  is  the  terminus  of  a  branch  line  of  the 
Mexican  Southern  Eailroad,  and  is  evidently  destined  to 
surpass  Vera  Cruz  in  commercial  importance  at  an  early 
day.     {Compare  Section  VII.) 

A  French  company  has  recently  entered  into  a  con- 
tract with  the  Mexican  Government  to  build  an  extensive 
breakwater  in  the  harbor  of  Vera  Cruz,  which  will  cost 
about  110,000,000. 

VERA.   CRUZ. 

Population,  20,000. 

Hotels  {Diligcncias,  Vera  Cruzano,  and  de  Mejico.) 

Cafes  on  the  Calk  de  la  Yndcpcndencia. 

Telegraph-Office  on  the  same  street. 

Post-Office  on  the  Calle  dc  Cinco  de  Mayo^  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
southwest  of  the  main  plaza. 

Places  op  Interest. — 1.  Plaza  de  la  Consiitucion.  2.  Plaza  del  3fer- 
cado.  3.  The  parochial  church,  the  tower  of  which  should  be  ascended  for 
a  view  of  the  city.     4.  The  Alameda. 

None  of  the  buildings  of  Vera  Cruz  are  worthy  of  a 
visit.  The  climate  is  usually  hot  and  very  unhealthy,  tlie 
vomito,  or  yellow  fever,  being  prevalent  in  the  summer 
season,  and  even  breaking  out  occasionally  in  the  winter 
mouths.     Tourists  arc  advised  to  spend  as  little  time  in 


MEXICO.  153 

this  city  as  possible.  Passengers  on  the  steamers  may  remain 
on  board  until  within  an  hour  of  the  departure  of  trains 
for  the  interior.  During  a  norther,  however,  the  tem- 
perature sinks  to  G5°  Fahr.,  and  then,  of  course,  the  stran- 
ger is  not  incommoded  by  heat.  Travelers  can  have  their 
foreign  money  changed  at  the  office  of  the  agents  of  the 
principal  lines  of  steamships,  Messrs.  R.  C.  Ritter  S  Co. 

The  streets  in  the  city  of  Vera  Cruz  are  laid  out  at 
right  angles,  and  are  paved  with  cobble-stones,  with  a  ken- 
nel in  the  middle. 

Flocks  of  turkey-buzzards,  called  zopilotes,  take  the 
place  of  a  street-cleaning  department.  These  birds  are  pro- 
tected by  law,  a  fine  of  15  being  imposed  for  killing  one  of 
them. 

The  houses  are  of  either  one  or  two  stories,  and  are  gen- 
erally built  of  stone  and  mortar,  and  covered  with  red  tiles. 
Many  of  them  have  patios,  or  court-yards,  and  railings 
painted  green  in  front  of  the  windows  facing  the  street, 
reminding  the  traveler  of  Old  Spain. 

A  walk,  or  ride  in  the  horse-cars,  from  the  moAn plaza  to 
the  Alameda,  should  be  taken  by  the  stranger.  The  variety 
of  colors  and  signs  on  the  buildings,  the  picturesque  cos- 
tumes and  musical  language  of  the  natives,  and  the  tropi- 
cal vegetation,  will  have  the  charm  of  novelty  to  the  tourist 
coming  from  a  northern  clime. 

Vera  Cruz,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  State  of  the 
same  name,  is  situated  on  the  19th  parallel  of  north  latitude. 
It  was  founded  by  the  viceroy,  Count  Monterey,  at  the  end 
of  the  sixteenth  century,  and  was  made  a  city  by  Philip  III 
of  Spain  in  1615.  The  city  is  built  on  an  arid  plain.  It 
Avas  formerly  called  Villa  Rica,  or  Villa  Rica  de  la  Vera 
Cruz — i.  e. ,  the  rich  city  of  the  true  cross.  The  original 
town  of  Vera  Cruz  founded  by  Cortes  lies  several  miles 
north  of  the  present  city. 

Referring  to  this  spot,  the  historian  Prescott,  in  his 


154 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES   OF  TRAVEL. 


Conquest  of  Mexico,  vol.  i,  p.  229,  says  :  "  Little  did  the 
Conqueror  imagine  that  the  desolate  beach  on  which  he 
first  planted  his  foot,  was  one  day  to  be  covered  by  a  flour- 
ishing city,  the  great  mart  of  European  and  Oriental  trade, 
the  commercial  capital  of  New  Spain." 

At  the  present  day  about  two  thirds  of  Mexican  com- 
merce passes  through  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz.    The  imports 


are  increasing  rapidly,  those  of  1882  being  nearly  fifty  per 
cent  greater  than  those  of  1881. 


An  excursion  may  be  made  to  Jalapa,  sixty  miles  dis- 
tant, by  tramway.  It  is  said  that  the  railroad  between 
this  town  and  Vera  Cruz  will  be  completed  on  January  1, 
1884. 

Jalapa  has  a  population  of  12,400,  and  an  elevation  of 
4,335  feet.     (Hotels,  Nacional  and  Vera  Cruzano.)     The 


MEXICO.  155 

town  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Macuil- 
tepete  Mountain,  The  well-known  Cofre  de  Perote,  13,553 
feet  high,  according  to  Humboldt,  is  within  a  day's  Jour- 
ney. There  are  no  buildings  in  Jalcqm  of  special  interest 
to  the  tourist  except  the  old  convent  of  San  Francisco. 
Many  of  the  merchants  of  Vera  Cruz  have  their  country- 
houses  at  Jalapa.  The  climate  is  cool,  although  damp,  for 
the  greater  part  of  the  year.  The  soil  is  very  fertile,  and 
coffee,  tobacco,  vanilla,  cotton,  maize,  and  jalap  are  culti- 
vated extensively.  The  town  derives  its  name  from  the 
latter  plant. 

Travelers  may  visit  the  ruins  of  Papantla,  which  lie 
about  fifty  miles  north  of  Jalapa.  Diligences  run  as  far 
as  Tusmtlan ;  thence  one  must  go  on  horseback.  The 
teocalli  lies  about  six  miles  from  the  town  of  Papantla, 
which  contains  a  small  hotel.  Dr.  Autrey,  an  Ameri- 
can physician,  can  give  the  tourist  information  about 
the  country.  Horses,  blankets,  and  provisions  should  be 
procured  for  this  journey.  (See  chapter  on  ruins  for  de- 
scription. ) 

There  is  another  teocalli  at  Tusapan,  45  miles  west  of 
Papantla. 

The  village  of  Misantla,  which  is  situated  30  miles 
northeast  of  Jalapa,  contains  a  small  pyramid. 

An  Aztec  temple  may  also  be  found  at  Mapilca,  on  the 
Rio  Tecolutla. 

If  the  tourist  has  reached  Vera  Cruz  by  the  northern 
route,  he  may  make  an  excursion  to  the  famous  ruins  of 
Palexque,  by  taking  a  steamer  down  the  coast  to  Mina- 
titlan  on  the  Goatzacoalcos  Eiver,  and  thence  proceed  by 
road  via  San  Cristobal  j  or  he  may  go  directly  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Bio  Grijalva,  ascend  the  river  to  San  Juan  Bau- 
tista,  and  then  travel  by  horseback  to  Palenque  via  Macus- 
pan.  This  trip  is  somewhat  diflScult,  but  the  traveler  will 
be  well  repaid  by  visiting  the  ruins,  which  lie  about  eight 


156  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TEA  VEL. 

miles  from  the  town  of  Palenque.  (For  description  of  the 
buildings,  see  chapter  on  ruins.)  Tourists  should  procure 
letters  of  introduction  to  the  Government  officials  in  the 
country  lying  between  the  coast  and  Palenque.  There  are 
no  hotel  accommodations,  and  the  traveler  will  be  obliged 
to  pass  the  nights  in  Mexican  huts,  where  he  may  always 
expect  courteous  treatment. 

Tourists  are  recommended  to  provide  themselves  with 
sufficient  provisions,  tents,  camp-bedsteads,  mosquito-net- 
ting, and  medicines.  Extreme  caution  should  be  taken  to 
avoid  the  numerous  insects  as  much  as  possible.  The  jun- 
gle abounds  with  moniquiles,  jiggers,  ticks,  red  ants,  etc. 
The  moniquiles  burrow  under  the  skin,  causing  great  suf- 
fering. Should  the  stranger  be  attacked  by  these  peculiar 
insects,  he  should  employ  the  common  remedy  of  pasting  a 
leaf  over  the  bite,  which  causes  the  insect  to  come  to  the 
surface,  when  it  may  be  extracted.  The  natives  will  point 
out  the  peculiar  kind  of  leaf  to  be  used. 

Route  IT. 

FROM   NEW   YORK   TO   NEW  ORLEANS   BY   RAIL,  THENCE    BY 
STExVMER   TO   YERA   CRUZ. 

Fare  to  New  Orleans,  $38.  Fares  from  New  Orleans  to  Vera  Cruz — 
first  class,  $50 ;  second  class,  $35. 

(For  description  of  New  Orleans,  see  Appletons'  Oeneral 
Guide  to  tJie  United  States,  or  Hand-Booh  of  Winter  Re- 
sorts.) 

Leaving  New  Orleans,  the  steamer  descends  the  Missis- 
sippi Eiver  for  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles, 
and,  entering  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  by  the  South  Pass,  takes 
its  course  toward  Bagdad,  the  port  of  3fatamoros.  No  land 
is  seen  till  the  vessel  approaches  within  a  few  miles  of 
the  latter  town.  "VVc  drop  anchor  about  five  miles  from  the 
shore,  and  a  tender  comes  out  to  take  off  passengers,  cargo, 


MEXICO.  157 

and  the  mails.  Matamoros,  in  the  State  of  Tamaulipas,  is 
a  port  of  entry,  and  lies  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  opposite  Brownsville  in  Texas,  and  about  thirty 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  population  is 
about  12,000.  A  railroad  is  in  progress  toward  the  city  of 
Monterey.  Another  is  projected  southward  to  Tampico. 
(See  Section  XII.) 

Leaving  Bagdad,  we  sail  southward,  keeping  out  of 
sight  of  land  almost  all  the  way  to  Tampico.  On  reaching 
the  latter  port  the  passengers,  freight,  and  mail  are  trans- 
ferred to  a  small  sail-boat  and  carried  over  the  bar  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Rio  Tamiyico  to  the  town  of  the  same  name 
about  nine  miles  distant.  There  is  a  small  hotel  at  Tam- 
pico,  and  the  pojiulatipn  numbers  7,000. 

Ten  miles  to  the  northward  is  the  Rio  Pdnuco,  famous 
in  the  history  of  New  Spain  as  being  the  terminus  of  Gri- 
jalva's  voyage  from  Cuba  along  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  and  also  noted  as  the  spot  where  the  remnant  of 
De  Soto's  band  of  explorers  landed  in  their  unfortunate 
voyage  southward  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  Rio  Pdnuco  is  about  one  thousand  feet  wide, 
and  is  said  to  be  navigable  for  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles  from  its  mouth.  Small  steamers  connect  Tampico 
with  stage-coaches  for  San  Luis  Potosi  via  Ciudad  del 
Maiz. 

A  branch  of  the  Mexican  Central  Eailway  is  being  con- 
structed from  Tampico  toward  the  city  of  San  Luis  Po- 
tosi.    (For  description,  see  Section  V.) 

From  Tampico  the  steamship  proceeds  to  Tuxpan,  where 
passengers,  freight,  and  mails  are  landed  by  means  of  a 
small  sailing-vessel.  The  town  lies  nine  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Tuxpan  Elver,  and  has  about  4,000  inhabit- 
ants. This  river  is  navigable  for  about  thirty  miles,  but 
there  is  only  six  feet  of  water  on  the  bar  at  high  tide.  No 
hotel  accommodations  are  to  be  had  in  Tuxpan. 


158  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

Fapantla  may  be  reached  in  two  days  on  horseback. 
(See  p.  46.) 

Valuable  petroleum-wells  are  found  in  the  vicinity,  and 
two  American  companies  have  already  erected  works  to 
refine  the  oil.*  "  The  petroleum  occurs  chiefly  in  the  State 
of  Vera  Cruz,  between  the  Pdnuco  and  Tuxpan  Rivers. 
The  wells  are  mostly  near  the  coast,  at  ChapajMe,  Santa 
Teresa,  Juan  Felipe,  Escondida,  SepuJtura,  Carrihajal, 
Monte  Grande,  Paso  Grande,  and  on  the  borders  of  the 
Laguna  de  Tamialma.  There  are  submerged  stone  ruins 
in  this  lagoon.  A  railroad  from  this  port  toward  the  City 
of  Mexico  is  projected,  but  it  will  probably  be  several  years 
before  the  work  of  construction  is  finished. 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  passengers  can  disem- 
bark at  Bagdad,  Tampico,  and  Tuxpan  in  good  weather 
only.    During  severe  northers  they  are  taken  to  Vera  Cruz. 

Route  III. 

FEOM  NEW  YORK  TO  LAREDO,  TEXAS,  EITHER  VIA  ST. 
LOUIS,  MISSOURI,  OR  NEW  ORLEANS,  LOUISIANA  ;  OR  TO 
EL  PASO,  TEXAS,  EITHER  VIA  TEXAS  AND  PACIFIC  RAIL- 
WAY, OR  ATCHISON,  TOPEKA  AND  SANTA  FE    RAILROAD. 

Fares  from  New  York  to  Laredo,  $69.15  unlimited,  and  $58.80  limited ; 
and  from  New  York  to  El  Paso,  $74.60  unlimited,  and  $64.85  limited. 

(For  description  of  these  routes  from  New  York  south- 
ward, see  Apple  tons'  General  Guide  to  the  United  States.) 

Sections  IV  and  V  of  Part  Second  describe  respectively 
the  routes  from  Laredo  and  El  Paso  to  the  interior  of 
Mexico. 

*  The  Vera  Cruz  Oil  Company  was  organized  at  Boston  in  1881.  Mr. 
Thomas  Nickerson,  Hon.  B.  F.  Butler,  and  others,  are  shareholders.  A 
well  has  been  drilled  to  a  depth  of  372  feet,  and  filled  with  a  five-inch 
casing.  Experts  say  that  this  oil  is  very  promising,  and  that  there  is  only 
eight  per  cent  waste.  Land  is  cheap,  the  rate  of  taxation  is  low,  and  there 
is  a  duty  of  27  cents  a  gallon  on  imported  petroleum. 


MEXICO. 


159 


Tourists  visiting  Mexico  from  San  Francisco,  Califor- 
nia, by  rail,  should  take  the  Southern  Pacific  Eailroad  to 
Benson,  Arizona,  1,024  miles  distant,  and  proceed  to  Guay- 
mas,  or  other  points  on  the  west  coast ;  or  go  directly  to 
El  Paso,  a  distance  of  1,286  miles,  and  thence  travel  into 
the  interior. 


A  Mexican  Cafion. 


SECTION    II. 
The  Mexican  Railway  Company  (Ferrocarril  Mexicano). 

FROM   VERA    CEUZ   TO   MEXICO. 

263  J  miles,  or  424  kilometres.     Fares,  first  class,  $16  ;  second  class, 
$12.50  ;  third  class,  $7.25.*     Time,  lU  hourB. 

This  route  will  be  described  as  follows : 

1.  From  Vej'a  Cruz  to  Orizaba. 

2.  From  Orizaba  to  Esperanza. 

3.  From  Esperanza  to  PueUa  via  Apizaco. 

4.  From  PueUa  to  the  City  of  3Iexico. 

1.  From  Vera  Cruz  to  Orizaba,  82  miles. 

The  tourist  is  advised  not  to  proceed  directly  to  the 
lofty  table-land,  but  to  remain  a  few  days  at  some  inter- 
mediate point,  e.  g.,  at  Cordoba  or  Orizaba,  in  order  to 
become  accustomed  to  the  rarefied  air.  The  latter  city  is 
preferable  as  regards  hotel  accommodations,  and  it  presents 
besides  some  objects  of  interest  to  the  sight-seer.  There  is 
only  one  through  passenger-train  daily,  which  at  present 
(1883)  starts  at  G  A.  m.  Leaving  the  railway-station,  which 
is  six  and  one  fifth  feet  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  the  road 
traverses  a  broad  plain,  which  is  barren  near  the  city  of 
Vera  Cruz.  The  tourist  soon  encounters  a  dense  growth  of 
cactus  and  cliaparral,  with  a  few  palms  interspersed. 

A  branch  road  leaves  the  main  track  about  three  miles 
from  Vera  Cruz,  and  runs  to  Medellin,  six  miles  distant. 

*  The  diligence  fare  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico  used  to  be  $50. 


THE  MEXICAN  RAILWAY  COMPANY.  161 

In  the  tierra  caliente  (hot  land)  tlie  hovels  of  the  niitives 
are  of  one  story,  and  are  generally  thatched  Tvith  palm- 
leaves. 

Three  lines  of  telegraph  are  seen  by  the  side  of  the 
track.  One  of  them  belongs  to  the  National  Government, 
another  to  a  private  corporation  called  "The  Commercial," 
and  the  third  to  the  Mexican  Kailway  Company.  The  last 
uses  imported  poles  of  cast-iron,  with  white  china  insulators. 

Passing  the  station  of  Tejeria  (9^  miles),  whence  a 
branch  tramway  leads  to  Jalapa,  GO  miles  distant,  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground  continues  flat,  and  affords  good  grazing 
all  the  way  to  Soledad  (26  miles)  ;  elevation,  305  feet.  Here 
the  train  stops  ten  minutes.  Coffee  and  bread  are  for  sale, 
at  the  price  of  one  real.  The  majestic,  snow-clad  peak  of 
Orizaba  now  rises  into  full  view.  For  a  hundred  miles  the 
eye  follows  the  crest  of  the  sierra  forming  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  table-land. 

The  plain  of  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz  is  about  thirty  miles 
in  width.  After  crossing  the  Soledad  Kiver,  the  ascending 
gi'ade  becomes  perceptible.  At  many  of  the  railway-stations 
cakes  of  compressed  coal  are  piled  in  large  masses.  They 
are  imported  from  Great  Britain,  as  there  is  no  coal  near 
the  line  of  the  road,  and  wood  being  scarce  and  dear,  except 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  volcano  of  Orizaba. 

The  next  station  is  Camaron  (SO^  miles).  The  road 
now  crosses  a  plateau  covered  with  basaltic  bowlders.  The 
so-called  Spanish  moss,  or  lichen,  hangs  from  the  trees, 
reminding  the  American  tourist  of  the  forests  of  Georgia 
and  Florida. 

Paso  del  Maclio  (47i  miles)  is  the  next  stopping-place. 
Here  the  train  begins  to  ascend  a  heavy  grade.  The 
track  makes  a  wide  curve  around  the  base  of  the  thickly- 
wooded  Chiquihuite  Mountain,  and  soon  comes  in  sight  of 
the  cascade  of  the  Rio  de  Atoyac.  The  adjacent  region  is 
covered  with  a  dense  tropical  jungle,  in  which  many  species 


162 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


of  flowers  and  trailing  yines  grow  luxuriantly.  The  matted 
forest  extends  to  the  summits  of  the  neighboring  hills. 
Perhaps  no  other  part  of  Mexico  possesses  a  richer  vegeta- 
tion than  this  portion  of  the  route.  It  forms  a  striking  con- 
trast to  the  dreary  plains  which  the  traveler  will  soon  reach. 
The  train  now  arrives  at  Atoyac  (53^  miles)  ;  elevation, 
1,512  feet.  The  line  crosses  a  bridge  over  the  Rio  de 
Atoyac.  This,  like  the  other  bridges  along  the  route,  is 
built  of  iron,  with  stone  piers.  Proceeding  farther,  several 
tunnels  are  passed,  and  both  tobacco  and  sugar-cane  are 
seen  growing  in  the  vicinity. 

The  next  station  is  Cordola  (65f  miles),  which  lies  at 
the  altitude  of  2,713  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Gulf.  This 
town  has  about  five  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  one  mile 
distant  from  the  railway.  It  is  reached  by  horse-cars,  and 
it  has  a  small  hotel.  Cordoha  is  famous  for  its  coffee-plan- 
tations, and  the  stranger  will  have  no  better  opportunity  in 

Mexico  for  visit- 
ing one  of  them. 
A  day  may  be 
spent  to  advan- 
tage at  Cordoha. 
Various  kinds  of 
fruit  grow  plenti- 
fully, and  are  sold 
at  a  very  low  price. 
A  basket  of  two 
dozen  oranges 
costs  twenty -five 
cents,  whereas  the  usual  price  on  the  table-land  is  three 
oranges  for  a  medio  (six  and  a  quarter  cents).  Mexicans 
en  route  to  the  capital  often  lay  m  a  large  stock  of  pine- 
apples, bananas,  and  oranges  at  Cordoha,  and  take  them  to 
their  homes,  as  the  extortionate  rates  of  freight  on  this 
railway  render  fruit  very  expensive  in  the  City  of  Mexico. 


The  Pineapple  Plant. 


THE  MEXICAN  RAILWAY  COMPANY.  163 

Most  of  the  coffee  consumed  in  Eastern  Mexico  grows  in 
the  vicinity  of  Cordoba.  There  are  many  valuable  j^lanta- 
tions,  and  a  few  Americans  have  established  themselves 
here.  It  may  be  remarked  that  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz 
produces  more  coffee  than  any  other  State  in  the  Eepublic. 
Leaving  Cordoba,  the  road  makes  a  long  bend  and  crosses 
the  bridge  of  Metlac,  built  over  a  river  of  the  same  name. 
The  scenery  is  magnificent,  and  the  ravine,  or  barranca, 
of  Metlac  contains  one  of  the  most  skillful  pieces  of  engi- 
neering to  be  found  in  the  country.  The  general  plan  of 
building  the  Mexican  railways  has  been  to  wind  around  the 
bases  of  the  several  mountains,  rather  than  to  drive  long 
tunnels  or  construct  large  bridges.  Passing  the  hamlet  of 
Fortin  (TOf  miles),  the  next  station  is  Orizaba  (82  miles). 

ORIZABA. 

Population,  17,000  ;  elevation,  4,028  feet. 

Hotels. — A  la  Borda  (German),  Diliffencias,  and  Cuairo  Kaciones. 
Baths. — De  Santa  Rita  on  the  main  street ;  very  good. 
Horse-cars  from  the  station  to  the  hotels  ;  fare,  a  medio  (6^  cents). 
Hacks,  6  reales  ("75  cents)  an  hour. 

Orizaba  is  the  present  capital*  of  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz. 
It  lies  in  a  broad  and  very  fertile  valley.  There  is  excel- 
lent pasturage  in  the  vicinity,  and  fine  cattle  are  raised. 
The  staple  products  of  the  valley  are  tobacco  and  sugar- 
cane. There  are  several  haciendas  of  the  latter,  the  largest 
of  which  is  at  Jalapilla.  Tobacco  grows  in  the  outskirts 
of  the  city  in  large  quantities.  Even  church-yards  have 
been  turned  to  use  for  planting  this  article.  During  the 
Spanish  domination,  when  the  restrictions  on  trade  were  so 
oppressive,  the  cultivation  of  tobacco  was  confined  by  law 
to  the  district  including  Cordoba  and  Orizaba,  and  the 
Government  employed  inspectors  to  pull  up  any  leaves  of 
the  plant  that  were  found  growing  outside  of  it. 
*  Jalapa  was  formerly  the  capital. 


164  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

Places  of  Interest. — 1.  The  Parroquia  and  other  churches.  2.  The 
Paseo.  3.  The  Cerro  (hill)  del  Borrego.  4.  Jalapilla  (sugar-mill).  5.  The 
cascade  of  Rincon  Grande.     6.  The  cascade  of  Barrio  Nuevo. 

The  Paseo  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  parks  in  Mexico. 
It  is  about  a  half-mile  from  the  principal  hotels. 

The  Cer'ro  del  Borrego  should  be  ascended.  Its  sum- 
mit commands  a  magnificent  view.  During  the  inya- 
sion,  the  French  defeated  the  Mexicans  here  on  June  13, 
1862,  and  the  remains  of  the  fortifications  are  seen  to  this 
day.  There  is  a  limestone-quarry  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain. 

Jalapilla  is  a  hamlet  about  a  mile  and  a  half  south  of 
the  city.  It  lies  in  the  midst  of  rich  fields  of  sugar-cane. 
There  is  a  large  sugar-mill  here,  belonging  to  Senor  Bringos, 
and  the  tourist  will  have  an  excellent  oj^portunity  of  see- 
ing how  sugar  is  manufactured.  We  may  add  that  a 
much  larger  quantity  of  sugar  could  be  produced  in 
the  valley  of  Orizaba  than  is  now  yielded,  because  only 
a  small  part  of  it  is  occupied  by  the  sugar-cane.  This 
remark  would  also  apply  to  the  greater  part  of  the  arable 
land  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz  in  regard  to  crojis  of  other 
articles. 

This  State  ranks  second  in  the  annual  production  of 
sugar,  Morelos  being  the  first.  The  Emperor  Maximilian 
resided  a  short  time  at  Jalapilla  after  the  French  army  had 
evacuated  the  capital.  Here  he  held  the  famous  council  to 
determine  whether  he  should  abdicate  or  not. 

The  cascade  of  Rincon  Grande  is  about  a  mile  east  of 
Jalapilla.  There  are  several  waterfalls  about  forty  feet  in 
height,  which  are  surrounded  by  very  luxuriant  vegetation. 
There  is  another  cascade  {Barrio  Nuevo)  of  smaller  dimen- 
sions on  the  north  side  of  the  valley  of  Orizaba. 

Owing  to  the  scarcity  of  ram  m  Mexico,  waterfalls  are 
very  highly  regarded.  They  are  found  chiefly  in  the  tierra 
temjjlada  and  in  the  "foot-hills  "  of  the  Sierra  Madre.    The 


TEE  MEXICAN  RAILWAY  COMPANY.  1G5 

majestic  peak  of  Orizaia  is  visible  only  from  the  eastern 
end  of  the  city.  An  intervening  ridge  prevents  the  ob- 
server from  seeing  it  in  other  quarters  of  the  town.  If  the 
tourist  will  leave  his  hotel  early  enough  to  see  the  sun  rise 
on  the  mountain,  he  will  behold  one  of  the  grandest  sights 
in  Mexico. 

Most  of  the  houses  in  Orizaba  are  one  story  high,  with 
overhanging  red-tiled  roofs.  The  traveler  will  have  a 
chance  to  examine  the  class  of  dwellings  occupied  by  the 
poor  people.  They  are  constructed  of  all  kinds  of  rub- 
bish, such  as  old  boards,  sugar-cane  stalks,  barrel-staves, 
sun-dried  bricks,  and  pieces  of  matting.  These  huts  are 
generally  thatched  with  palm-leaves  or  with  dried  strips  of 
the  magiiey,  and  the  solid  ground  serves  as  a  floor.  The 
climate  of  Orizaba  is  temperate  but  very  moist.  Bull-fights 
take  place  on  Sunday  afternoons,  the  bull-ring,  or  ^j/rt;i;a 
dc  toros,  being  in  an  old  convent.  Another  large  church  is 
now  used  as  a  barracks  for  the  garrison.  There  is  a  Ma- 
sonic lodge  in  the  upper  part  of  the  same  edifice. 

The  stranger,  by  visiting  the  registrar's  office  (qficio 
publico  7nas  antigiio),  can  inspect  some  of  the  old  Spanish 
deeds  written  on  parchment,  with  many  abbreviations,  dur- 
ing the  time  of  Cortes.  The  mediaeval  Spanish  contains  so 
many  contractions  as  to  be  almost  incomprehensible  to  the 
Mexican  of  to-day.  For  example,  instead  of  writing  q-u-e 
for  the  word  qtie,  meaning  "  which,"  in  those  days  they 
wrote  simply  the  letter  (/,  with  the  addition  of  a  semicir- 
cular curve,  which  was  carried  over  to  the  first  letter  of  the 
next  word,  giving  the  two  words  the  appearance  of  a  single 
one.  Notwithstanding  the  age  of  these  manuscripts,  they 
are  still  in  an  excellent  state  of  preservation. 

2.  From  Orizaba  to  Esperanza  (29  miles). 

Leaving  Orizaba,  the  railroad  traverses  the  flat  plain, 
and  passes  the  village  of  Horales,  which  boasts  of  a  small 


166  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

cotton-factory.  The  next  station  is  Enurial  (88-|-  miles). 
A  Fairlie  engine,  which  is  constructed  of  two  locomotives, 
with  the  tender  on  toj),  is  now  attached  to  the  train.  The 
grade  soon  becomes  very  heavy  as  the  iron  horse  climbs  the 
cumbres,  or  summits.  Passing  through  several  tunnels, 
the  Barranca  del  Injiei^nillo  is  reached.  This  locality  affords 
the  most  magnificent  scenery  along  the  entire  route.  The 
track  is  built  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  and  a  roaring 
torrent  is  seen  at  the  bottom  of  the  rocky  canon,  six  hun- 
dred feet  below.  The  tourist  may  now  look  back  on  the 
broad  valley,  and  trace  the  course  of  the  winding  railway, 
interspersed  with  bridges,  and  see  the  old  diligence  road  in 
the  distance,  which  is  to-day  given  up  to  pack-animals. 
Trains  of  burros,  or  donkeys,  still  transport  the  wares  of 
the  peasant  to  the  neighboring  villages. 

The  next  station  is  Maltrata  (944  miles),  where  the  ele- 
vation is  5,550  feet.  The  volcano  of  Orizaba  is  visible  from 
this  point.  It  is,  however,  generally  covered  with  clouds, 
except  in  the  early  morning.  There  are  go  many  curves, 
and  the  ascending  grade  is  so  steep,  that  the  train  only 
makes  about  seven  miles  an  hour  in  this  jjart  of  the  journey. 
Some  maize  is  grovm  beyond  Maltrata,  but  the  country  is 
barren  for  the  most  part. 

Bota  (9Ti  miles)  is  the  next  station.  The  line  now 
makes  another  great  bend  around  the  steep  slope  of  the 
mountain,  and  comes  to  Alta  Luz  (103  miles),  a  hamlet  of 
several  houses.  If  the  observer  will  look  back,  he  may  see 
the  village  of  Maltrata,  with  the  track  meandering  across 
the  plain,  and,  far  in  the  distance,  a  glimpse  of  the  valley 
of  Orizaba  may  be  obtained. 

The  traveler  has  reached  the  tierra  fria,  or  cold  zone. 
The  flora  remmds  one  of  the  Eocky  Mountains.  Dwarf 
pines,  spruces,  and  deciduous  trees,  with  a  few  Alpine 
flowers,  take  the  place  of  the  luxuriant  troj^ical  vegetation 
of  the  ''  hot  country  "  that  has  recently  been  traversed. 


TEE  MEXICAN-  liAILWAY  COMPANY. 


167 


now  attained  the  level  of  the  great 
This  point,  however,  is  not  the  high- 


Blue  limestone  covers  the  country  from  Orizaba  west- 
ward, and  the  region  is  adapted  to  grazing  to  some  ex- 
tent. The  next  station  is  Boca  del  Monte,  or  "mouth 
of  the  mountain "  (107-^  miles),  where  the  elevation  is 
7,924  feet. 

The  tourist  has 
table-land  of  Mexico. 
est  on  the  line,  the 
summit  being  near 
Guadalupe,  about 
eighty  miles  distant. 
The  traveler  crosses 
a  flat  plain  for  sev- 
eral miles,  and  ar- 
rives at  E^peranza 
(llli  miles). 

The  train  stops 
thirty  minutes  for 
dinner.      The  east- 


This  cut  shoivs  the  zones  of  vegetatio7i  in  going 
from  the  sea-level  to  the  summit  of  the  snow- 
clad  peaks. 


ward  and  westward  passenger-trains  meet  here.  The  re- 
spective escorts  of  soldiers  change  cars,  and  are  carried 
back  to  the  termini  of  the  road.  A  high  wall  surrounds 
the  station,  and  a  guard  stands  at  each  entrance.  A  small 
but  well-kept  hotel  lies  within  the  inclosure.  It  belongs 
to  the  railway  company,  and  a  French  restaurateur  is 
employed  as  manager.  The  nights  and  early  mornings 
are  very  cool  on  the  table-land,  the  thermometer  usually 
falling  to  40°  Fahr.,  and  occasionally  below  the  freezing- 
point.  The  plain  of  Esperanza,  which  has  an  area  of 
about  forty-five  square  miles,  is  quite  fertile.  Wheat,  bar- 
ley, and  Indian  corn  are  grown  in  abundance.  If  the 
tourist  will  stop  over  for  a  day,  he  may  visit  a  fine  hacienda, 
or  farm,  at  San  Antonio  de  Ahajo,  about  two  miles  distant. 
It  belongs  to  Do7i  Andres  Gutierrez,  and  is  valued  at 
$200,000.     The  hacienda  contains  houses  for  the  peons,  or 


16S  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

day-laborers,  barns,  stock-yards,  blacksmith  and  carpenter 
shops,  etc.  There  is  also  a  quaint  little  church,  which  bears 
the  date  of  a.  d.  1773  on  the  belfry.  The  Imcendado,  or 
proprietor,  employs  a  priest  to  officiate,  and  also  to  teach 
the  children  of  his  peons,  who  number  several  hundred. 
There  are  a  great  many  horses,  mules,  cattle,  and  sheep  on 
the  farm,  and  the  owner  uses  plows  of  American  manufac- 
ture. 

The  traveler  has  an  excellent  view  from  Espcranza  of 
the  volcano  of  Orizaba,  which  rises  behind  the  Sienna  Negra. 
The  mountain  can  be  ascended  from  this  point.  It  is  dif- 
ficult, however,  to  procure  horses  here,  and  accordingly 
the  tourist  is  recommended  to  make  the  ascent  from  Sa7i 
Andres,  about  six  miles  distant  by  trail,  but  fifteen  miles 
by  the  railway. 

The  peak  of  Orizaba  is  17,200  feet  above  the  sea-level, 
and  is  the  highest  mountain  in  Mexico,  with  the  exception 
of  Popocatepetl.  There  were  violent  eruptions  in  1545  and 
1566,  but  the  volcano  has  been  quiet  ever  since.  It  was 
reported  to  be  smoking  in  April,  1883.  There  is  no  diffi- 
cult climbing  on  the  mountain,  but  the  ascent  is  exceedingly 
laborious  on  account  of  the  steepness  of  the  snow-clad  cone. 
It  is  almost  impossible  for  the  traveler  coming  direct  from 
Vera  Cruz  to  ascend  Orizaba.  He  should  spend  several 
days  on  the  table-land,  and  accustom  his  lungs  to  the  rare- 
fied atmosphere,  before  starting  out  for  the  summit  of  the 
peak.  The  tourist  can  ride  to  a  cave  just  below  the  timber- 
line,  which  is  about  13,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  pass  the  night  there.  Guides,  blankets,  and  provisions 
for  two  days  must  be  taken.  As  the  clouds  rise  and  often 
cover  the  mountain  early  in  the  forenoon,  the  traveler 
should  leave  the  cave  by  4  a.  m.  if  possible.  About  five 
hours  will  be  required  to  reach  the  summit.  Very  few 
persons  thus  far  have  climbed  Orizaba. 

An  excursion  to  Oaxaca  and  Mitla  may  be  made  from 


THE  MEXICAN  RAILWAY  COMPANY.  169 

Esperanza.  A  horse-railroad  extends  from  the  latter  place 
to  Tehuacan,  thirty-one  miles  distant.  A  diligence  is  then 
run  to  Tecomahapa,  about  forty  miles  farther.  Thence  the 
tourist  must  travel  by  horseback  via  the  villages  of  Teotit- 
lan,  Cues,  Dominguillo,  Joyacatlan,  San  Juan,  and  Etla,  to 
Oaxaca,  about  ninety  miles  distant.  Tehuacan  (Hotels,  Dili- 
gencias  and  Ferrocarril)  has  a  population  of  10,000.  The 
traveler  is  advised  to  procure  horses  in  this  place.  There 
is  a  meson  (inn)  at  Tecomahapa,  but  the  other  settlements 
being  very  small  are  destitute  of  hotel  accommodations. 
The  nights  must  be  spent  in  the  huts  of  the  natives.  Par- 
ties making  this  trip  are  advised  to  carry  provisions  with 
them.  The  Mexican  Southern  Railroad  will  eventually 
connect  Tehuacan  with  Oaxaca.  The  latter  city  is  de- 
scribed in  Section  VII,  and  the  reader  is  referred  to  the 
chapter  on  ruins  in  Part  First  for  an  account  of  Mitla. 

3.  From  Esperanza  to  Pcebla  via  Apizaco,  94f  miles. 

Leaving  Esperanza,  the'  traveler  sees  the  snow-capped 
summits  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztacciliuatl  on  the  left,  and 
the  pjTamidal  peak  of  MalincTie  on  the  extreme  right.  The 
landscape  reminds  him  of  the  parks  of  Colorado.  The 
railroad  crosses  the  broad  plain,  and  the  station  of  San 
Andres  (126^  miles)  is  reached.  Horse-cars  run  to  the 
town,  about  five  miles  distant.  It  has  already  been  stated 
that  the  volcano  of  Orizaba  may  be  ascended  from  this 
point  (p.  168).  The  summit  is  about  fifteen  miles  dis- 
tant. 

The  train  now  passes  some  maize-fields  and  the  salt  lakes 
of  El  Salado,  and  arrives  at  Rinconada  (139  miles),  eleva- 
tion 7,731  feet.  The  country  soon  becomes  fertile  again, 
and  the  next  station  is  San  Marcos  {IbQ^  miles).  Another 
railway  crosses  the  track  here,  extending  to  Puehla  on  the 
south,  and  to  San  Juan  de  Llanos  on  the  north.  It  will 
be  completed  in  the  autumn  of  1883.  Proceeding  farther, 
8 


170 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


the  train  stops  at  Huamantla  (161  miles).  The  traveler  is 
now  in  the  State  of  Tlaxcala,  the  former  home  of  the  great 
rivals  to  the  Aztecs,  whose  services  Cortes  secured  on  the 
march  from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  valley  of  Mexico,  thereby 
greatly  increasing  his  forces.  Much  Indian  corn  is  culti- 
vated in  the  neighborhood,  and  the  maguey,  or  aloe,  and 
nopal,  or  cactus-tree,  are  used  as  fences.  The  picturesque 
mountain  of  Malinche  lies  behind  the  town.     It  was  named 

after  Dofla  Marina,  the 
interpreter  of  the  Span- 
ish army  under  Cortes. 

The  next  station  is  Api- 
zaco  (176f  miles),  eleva- 
tion 7,912  feet.  A  branch 
line  leads  from  this  point 
to  PueMa,  47  kilometres, 
or  29:^  miles.  It  was 
opened  on  September  16, 
1869. 

Leaving  Apizaco,  the 
road  makes  a  long  curve 
and  runs  southward  to 
Saiita  Ana  (10|  miles). 
The  mountain  of  Malin- 
che remains  in  full  view. 
It  is  often  snow-capped,  and  the  natives  bring  the  snow 
to  the  train  and  sell  it  in  glasses  mixed  with  lemon-juice. 
Maguey,  maize,  and  wheat  grow  in  large  quantities  along 
the  line.     The  grade  is  downward  all  the  way  to  Pue- 

yia. 

The  tourist  soon  comes  in  sight  of  the  majestic  snow- 
clad  peaks  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl.  The  former 
has  an  elevation  of  10,500  feet  above  the  broad  valley.  The 
next  station  is  Panzacola  (21|  miles),  and  a  half-hour's 
ride  brings  the  tourist  to  PueUa. 


The  Nopal. 


TEE  MEXICAN  RAILWAY  COMPANY.  171 

PUEBLA. 

Population,  64,588 ;  elevation,  '7,201  feet. 
Hotels. — Espanol,  Diligencias,  Del  Cristo,  Del  Recreo. 
Rkstaurants  and  cafes  on  the  northern  and  western  sides  of  the  plaza 
mayor. 

Baths,  adjoining  the  Paseo  viejo  (1  real). 

Carriages,  50  cents  an  hour ;  on  Sunday  and  feast-days,  75  cents. 

Pueola  was  founded  on  September  28,  1531.  The  city 
is  jo«r  excellence  an  old  Spanish  settlement.  It  is  often 
called  PueUa  de  los  Angeles,  or  town  of  the  angels.  Since 
May  5,  1862,  the  city  has  been  named  Puebla  de  Zaragoza, 
after  a  general  of  that  name,  who  defeated  the  French  on 
the  date  above  mentioned.  The  churches  are  finer  than 
those  of  any  other  Mexican  town,  and  the  streets  are  well 
paved.  The  houses  are  usually  built  with  two  stories,  and 
arcades  are  found  on  the  plaza  mayor.  There  are  twenty- 
six  jiublic  squares  and  two  parks  in  Puel)la. 

The  adjoining  city  of  Cholula  was  the  headquarters  of 
Cortes  for  several  months  during  the  Conquest.  Pictures 
of  some  of  the  battles  between  the  Spaniards  and  the  na- 
tives may  be  seen  on  the  walls  of  the  hotels.  Blankets,  or 
zarapes,  hats  of  straw  and  felt,  soap,  thread,  crockery,  and 
glass  are  manufactured  in  large  quantities  in  Puella.  Many 
fine  stores  are  found  in  the  city,  and  the  traveler  can  pur- 
chase ornaments  of  the  so-called  Mexican  onyx,  or  tecali, 
which  occurs  in  the  neighboring  marble-quarries.  It  is 
composed  chiefly  of  carbonate  of  lime. 

The  stranger  should  ascend  one  of  the  towers  of  the 
cathedral  for  a  view  of  the  city.  The  scene  is  one  of  sur- 
passing beauty.  Malinche  lies  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
fertile  plain,  and  the  volcano  of  Popocatepetl  rises  about 
twenty-five  miles  to  the  westward.  Tourists  can  ascend  the 
latter  mountain  from  PueUa.  Guides,  blankets,  and  pro- 
visions for  three  days,  must  be  taken  ;  but  it  will  be  more 
convenient  to  make  the  ascent  from  Amecameca,  on  the 


172 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


western  side  of  the  ridge.     (This  trip  is  described  in  the 
section  on  the  Morelos  Railway.) 

Places  of  Interest. — 1.  The  Cathedral  (observe  the  wood-carvings  and 
Mexican  onyz-worii).  2.  The  Church  of  San  Francisco.  3.  The  Church 
of  La  Compania.  4.  The  Church  of  San  Cristobal.  5.  The  Museum.  6. 
The  College,  or  Colegio  del  Estado.  V.  The  Paseo  Nuevo  and  Paseo  Viejo. 
8.  The  Pyramid  of  Cholula.     9.  Fort  Guadalupe. 


Popocatepetl. 

There  are  several  other  churches,  but  they  are  hardly 
worth  a  visit.  We  have  not  space  to  describe  all  of  the 
above  buildings.  The  reader  is  referred  to  the  chapter  on 
ruins  for  an  account  of  the  pyramid  at  Cliolula.  At  the 
time  of  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  Cortes  states  that  the 
city  of  Cliolula  contained  20,000  houses  and  about  150,000 
inhabitants.     To-day  the  population  is  less  than  10,000. 


THE  MEXICAN  RAILWAY  COMPANY.  1Y3 

A  church  built  by  Cortes,  and  containing  some  quaint  his- 
torical paintings,  is  yet  standing.  Cholula  can  also  boast 
of  a  park.  The  town  has  an  altitude  of  6,906  feet  accord- 
ing to  Humboldt,  or  about  300  feet  lower  than  Puebla.  It 
is  reached  by  carriage  and  by  horse-cars  (fare,  first  class, 
twenty-five  cents).  The  distance  is  seven  miles.  Maguey 
and  wheat  are  grown  to  a  large  extent  in  the  vicinity. 

4.  From  Puebla  to  the  City  of  Mexico.    Distance,  115|  miles.    Two  trains 

daily. 

Leaving  PueUa,  the  road  has  an  ascending  grade  to  Ajn- 
zaco.  The  heaviest  is  near  the  latter  place.  From  Apizaco 
the  land  rises  slightly,  and  the  track  crosses  a  gently  undu- 
lating plain  covered  with  extensive  maguey  plantations. 

Guadalupe  {ISQ^  miles)  is  the  next  station.  The  high- 
est point  of  the  Mexican  Eailway  is  near  by.  It  is  8,333 
feet  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  This  is  the  most  elevated 
station  in  the  Republic,  except  where  the  Mexican  National 
Eailway  traverses  the  sierra  between  Toluca  and  the  capi- 
tal. The  summit  of  the  latter  route  is  9,974  feet.  At 
various  points  of  the  road  the  tourist  will  see  soldiers,  wear- 
ing gray  uniforms,  and  armed  with  carbines  and  sabers. 
They  are  the  Guardia  rural,  or  mounted  patrols,  who  ac- 
company the  diligences,  and  protect  the  smaller  towns  from 
the  depredations  of  robbers. 

Passing  Soltepec  (192f  miles) ;  and  Apam  (205f  miles), 
which  has  an  elevation  of  8,226  feet,  the  train  reaches  Irolo 
(215^  miles).  A  tramway  leads  from  the  last  station  to  Pa- 
chuca,  thirty-seven  miles  distant.  Pachuca  is  one  of  the 
oldest  mining  towns  in  Mexico,  and  many  of  its  mines  are 
worked  at  the  present  day  ;  but,  as  the  daily  passenger- 
train  from  Vera  Cruz  and  Apizaco  does  not  connect  with 
the  tramway,  the  tourist  is  advised  to  proceed  directly  to 
the  capital,  and  make  an  excursion  to  Pachuca,  taking  the 
outward  morning  train.    (For  description,  see  Section  III.) 


174  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

Leaving  Irolo,  where  the  elevation  is  8,046  feet,  the  road- 
bed descends  gradually  toward  the  City  of  Mexico.  The 
next  station  is  Ometusco  (221:^  miles),  following  which  comes 
La  Palma  (225|-  miles). 

Tourists  will  observe  that  the  houses  in  the  villages  on 
the  table-land  are  built  of  large,  sun-dried  bricks,  called 
adobe.  The  country  is  sparsely  populated,  and  the  natives 
live  together  in  towns  or  hamlets.  It  is  very  rare  to  see  a 
dwelling  isolated  from  any  settlement. 

Passing  Otumha  (229  miles),  famous  in  history  as  the 
scene  of  a  battle  in  which  the  Spanish  invaders  defeated  the 
Aztecs,  on  July  8,  1520,  we  reach  San  Juan  Teotihuacan 
(236  miles).  The  latter  place  is  celebrated  for  its  two  pyra- 
mids, that  of  the  Sun  and  that  of  the  Moon.  They  may 
be  seen  from  the  train,  but  a  visit  to  these  teocallis  will  re- 
pay the  traveler.  As  the  town  lies  about  one  and  a  half 
mile  from  the  railroad,  and  as  there  is  neither  hotel  nor 
restaurant  in  it,  the  tourist  must  continue  the  journey  to 
the  national  capital,  and  make  an  excursion  to  San  Juan 
Teotihuacan  by  the  morning  train,  returning  in  the  even- 
ing. (The  pyramids  are  described  in  the  chapter  on 
ruins.)  The  next  station  is  Tepexpam  (243  miles),  and 
the  track  soon  enters  the  far-famed  valley  of  Mexico.  The 
road  skirts  the  Lake  of  Texcoco,  and  presently  the  magnifi- 
cent snoYZ-capped  mountains  are  seen  on  the  south.  Pass- 
ing the  town  of  Guadalupe,  the  traveler  arrives  at  the  rail- 
way-station of  Buena  Vista,  one  of  the  suburbs  of  the  City 
of  Mexico. 

An  express-agent  meets  the  train,  and  will  deliver  bag- 
gage to  any  part  of  the  city.  He  will  also  take  charge  of 
the  keys,  as  trunks  and  boxes  must  be  opened  and  examined 
for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  whether  they  contain  tax- 
able articles  before  being  allowed  to  enter  the  city.  The 
office  of  the  express  is  in  the  Hotel  Iturbide,  and  the  charge 
is  twenty-five  cents  (two  reales)  for  each  package. 


SECTION    III. 
The  City  of  Mexico  and  Environs. 

PoprLATiON  of  the  capital  in  1883,  according  to  the  best  estimates, 
225,000.     Elevation,  7,347  feet,  or  2,240  metres,  above  the  sea-level. 

Hotels. — San  Carlos,  Iturbide,  Gillozu,  Comon/ori,  Gnadiola,  Nacional, 
£uropa,  Del  Bazar,  Universal,  Espiritu  Santo,  Gran  Hotel  Central,  Ortega, 
San  Affustin,  and  several  others. 

Mesones  (inns). — De  San  Francisco,  De  la  Estrella,  De  San  Antonio, 
Del  Picadero,  and  many  others. 

Restaurants. — Iturbide,  De  la  Concordia,  Cafe  Anglais,  AFaison  Doree, 
Cafe  de  Paris.     (Fee  in  restaurants,  one  medio  {jo^  cents)  for  each  person.) 

Post-Office. — In  the  Calle  de  la  Moneda. 

Telegraph-Offices  in  the  railway-stations.  Central  office  of  the  Gov- 
ernment telegraph  line  in  the  Callcjon  del  Espiritu  Santo  No.  5.  Office 
hours,  8  A.  M.  to  8  p.  M. ;  on  feast-days  from  9  a.  m.  to  12  m.  Office  of  the 
Vera  Cruz  Commercial  line,  at  No.  14  Del  Refugio.  Office  of  the  old  line 
to  Jalisco,  in  Los  Bajos  de  San  Agiistin  No.  2. 

Express-Office  in  the  Hotel  Iturbide.  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.  have  also  an 
agency  in  the  city. 

Theatres. — Kacional,  in  the  Calle  de  Vcrgara ;  Principal,  Calle  del 
Colisco  ;  Arbeit,  in  the  Calle  de  San  Felipe  Ncri. 

Baths  adjoining  the  Teatro  Nadonal  (the  others  can  not  be  recom- 
mended). 

General  Diligence-Office,  in  the  rear  of  the  Hotel  Iturbide. 

Carriages,  first,  second,  and  third  class. — First  class,  carrying  blue  flags, 
$1  an  hour  on  work-days,  and  $1.50  on  feast-days.  Second  class,  with  red 
flags,  75  cents  and  $1  on  work-days  and  feast-days  respectively.  Third  class, 
with  u'hite  flags,  from  6  A.  M.  to  10  p.  m.,  50  cents,  and  from  10  p.  m.  to  6  a.  m., 
$1  an  hour  on  all  days.  Public  carriages  have  their  number  and  a  tariff  of 
charges  printed  in  Spanish  posted  in  a  conspicuous  manner  inside.  The  driver 
is  obliged  to  hand  the  passenger  entering  his  carriage  a  paper  containing 
the  tariff,  his  name  and  number,  and  the  place  where  he  belongs.  In  hiring 
a  vehicle,  one  quarter  of  an  hour  is  the  minimum  that  can  be  paid  for. 

Saddle-horses,  $2  for  the  afternoon. 


176  CITIES  AND  ROUTES   OF  TRAVEL. 

Banks. — London,  Mexico,  and  South  America,  Capuchinas  No.  3 ;  Na^ 
clonal,  corner  {esquina)  of  San  Francisco  and  San  Juan  de  Letran  Streets ; 
Mercantil  Mexicano,  San  Agustin  No.  15  ;  Bolsa  ATercantil  Mexicana,  Puen- 
te  del  Espiritu  Santo  No.  6. 

Societies. — Mexican  Geographical  and  Statistical  Society,  Calle  de  San 
Andres  No.  11 ;  Mexican  Academy,  Calle  de  Medina  No.  6  ;  American  club- 
house at  the  suburb  of  La  Piedad  ;  German  club,  corner  {esquina)  del  Cole- 
gio  de  Ninas  and  Independencia  Streets ;  French  Philharmonic  and  Dramatic 
Society,  ^'^"  de  Plateros ;  French  Circle  (reading-room),  Antigua  Lonja, 
Bajos  de  la  Disjmtacion  ;  Hunting  and  Fishing  Club,  Sta.  Isabel  No.  9. 

Railway-stations  at  Bucna  Vista,  for  the  Mexican  Railway  Company, 
and  the  Mexican  Central  Railroad  Company ;  at  Colonia,  for  the  Mexican 
National  Railway  Company ;  at  San  Ldzaro  for  the  Morelos  Railway  Company. 

Horse-cars,  of  first  and  second  class,  start  from  the  Plaza  mayor  at 
intervals  of  ten,  fifteen,  thirty,  and  sixty  minutes,  for  all  parts  of  the  city 
and  suburbs  not  exceeding  ten  miles  distant.     (Sec  time-tables.) 

Diplomatic  Corps. — The  United  States,  France,  Spain,  Guatemala,  Sal- 
vador, Honduras,  and  Chili  are  represented  by  envoys  extraordinary  and 
ministers  plenipotentiary  at  the  capital,  Germany,  Italy,  and  Belgium 
have  ministers  resident.  Formerly  Great  Britain  had  diplomatic  relations 
with  Mexico,  but  they  were  suspended  on  account  of  the  failure  to  pay  a 
public  debt.  At  present  (July,  1883),  Senor  Mariscal,  the  ex-Secretary  of 
Foreign  Affairs,  is  negotiating  for  the  renewal  of  diplomatic  intercourse 
with  England.     The  foreign  ministers  live  in  the  suburb  of  San  Cosme. 

Newspapers. — Single  copies,  one  medio  (6J  cents).  The  Two  Republics, 
published  semi-weekly,  is  the  only  journal  in  English.  The  Financier  is 
printed  half  in  Spanish  and  half  in  English.  Besides  these,  several  papers 
are  published  in  Spanish  and  French,  such  as  the  Monitor  Republicano, 
Diario  OJicial,  and  others. 

Bull-fights,  at  the  suburbs  of  Huisachal  and  Cuautitlan,  on  Sunday 
afternoons. 

The  City  of  Mexico  is  the  capital  of  the  Eepublic. 
Tlie  name  is  derived  from  Mexitli,  who  was  the  Aztec 
war-god.  Under  the  name  of  Tenoclititlan  it  was  the  capi- 
tal of  the  ancient  empire  of  Anahuac.  The  story  of  its 
origin  is  as  follows  :  The  Aztecs,  while  wandering  about 
the  country,  met  the  Colhuans,  a  rival  tribe.  A  battle  en- 
sued, and  the  former,  being  defeated,  were  pursued  by  the 
latter.     The  Aztecs  marched  to  the  valley  of  Mexico,  which 


THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.       177 

was  then  mostly  covered  by  lagoons.  An  oracle  bad  com- 
manded tbem  not  to  found  a  city  till  tbey  bad  come  to  a 
spot  wbere  an  eagle  would  be  seen  standing  on  a  rock. 
Upon  exploring  tbe  shores  of  the  lagoon,  the  Aztec  rovers 
beheld  the  long-sought  eagle  resting  on  a  cactus,  which 


The  Volcanoes  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl. 


grew  out  of  a  crevice  in  the  solid  rock.  Accordingly,  they 
called  their  city  TenocJititlcm,  which  signifies  a  "cactus 
upon  a  rock." 

The  device  of  an  eagle,  with  a  serpent  in  its  beak,  stand- 
ing on  a  cactus  that  grows  out  of  a  rock,  has  become  the 
escutcheon  of  Mexico.  It  is  found  on  the  national  flag,  as 
well  as  on  the  gold  and  silver  coins. 

The  present  capital  lies  in  latitude  19°  25'  45"  north, 
and  lonsfitude  99°  5'  15"  west  of  Greenwich.     It  is  built  on 


178  GITIE8  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

what  was  formerly  an  island  in  the  Lake  of  Tezcuco.*  The 
ancient  city  is  said  to  have  been  founded  on  July  18,  1325. 
Some  of  the  houses  were  constructed  on  piles,  like  the  pre- 
historic Swiss  lake-dwellings.  In  order  to  protect  the  capi- 
tal from  the  inundations  of  the  surrounding  lakes,  a  system 
of  dikes  was  established  by  the  Aztecs,  the  remnants  of 
which  exist  to  the  present  day.  In  1466  Montezuma  I, 
after  a  disastrous  flood  in  Tenochtitlan,  ordered  a  dike  to 
be  constructed,  which  was  39,360  f  feet  long  and  65  feet 
wide. 

At  the  time  of  the  Conquest  the  ancient  capital  was  en- 
tered by  the  Spaniards  under  Cortes  on  the  8th  day  of  No- 
vember, 1519.  After  a  residence  of  about  seven  months,  he 
was  compelled  to  evacuate  it.  In  the  following  year,  with 
the  aid  of  brigantines  on  Lake  Texcoco,  which  were  built 
especially  for  the  purpose,  in  the  neighboring  hills,  the  Con- 
queror attacked  and  besieged  the  city.  The  siege  lasted 
seventy-five  days,  when  the  Aztecs  surrendered  to  the  in- 
vaders. Soon  afterward  the  Spaniards  destroyed  Tenoch- 
titlan, and  built  a  capital  of  their  own  on  the  same  site, 
which  has  since  borne  the  name  of  Mexico.  Cortes  made 
a  great  mistake  in  founding  the  modern  city  on  the  site  of 
the  old  one,  which  was  situated  on  soft  ground,  and  in- 
volved an  expensive  system  of  dikes  and  causeways.  It 
would  have  been  preferable  to  have  selected  an  elevated 
spot  in  the  vicinity,  like  Tacubaya,  about  six  miles  south  of 
the  capital.  Scarcely  a  vestige  remains  of  the  ancient  me- 
tropolis. Several  Aztec  monuments,  such  as  the  calendar  and 
sacrificial  stones,  and  a  few  idols,  have  been  dug  up  on  the 
site  of  TenocJititlan  ;  but  the  ruins  of  not  even  a  single  house 
or  temple  can  be  found  to-day.  These  relics  were  practically 
incapable  of  destruction.     Accordingly,  they  were  buried. 

The  teocalli,  or  pyramid  of  the  ancient  capital,  was 
much  smaller  than  those  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan  and 
*  Now  spelled  Texcoco.  f  About  seven  and  a  half  miles. 


THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.      179 

Cholula.  It  was  ninety  feet  on  each  side  at  the  base,  and 
decreased  as  it  advanced  in  height  to  a  surface  of  thirty  feet 
square.  There  were  two  altars  on  the  summit.  Thus  much 
for  the  history  of  Tenoclititlan. 

The  valley  of  Mexico,  near  the  center  of  which  lies 
the  capital,  is  about  forty-two  miles  long  and  about  thirty 
miles  wide.  It  contains  six  lakes,  which  were  originally 
one  large  lagoon.  Their  names  are — beginning  at  the 
south — Xochimilco,  Chalco,  Texcoco,  San  Cristobal,  Xalto- 
can,  and  Zumpango.  The  last-named  lake  is  the  highest, 
while  Texcoco  is  the  lowest  and  largest.  Lake  Texcoco  has 
heretofore  received  the  overflow  of  the  others.  Their 
aggregate  area  is  about  twenty-two  square  leagues.  The 
water  of  these  lakes  is  salt,  excepting  that  of  Xochimilco. 
They  are  probably  the  highest  bodies  of  salt-water  in  the 
world. 

The  climate  is  temperate,  the  mean  annual  temperature 
being  60°  Fahr.  There  is  considerable  moisture  in  winter 
and  during  the  rainy  season,  from  June  to  September. 
The  most  changeable  weather  occurs  in  February.  May  is 
the  hottest  month.  During  the  entire  year  the  early  morn- 
ing is  cold,  the  thermometer  generally  falling  to  about  40° 
Fahr.,  and  occasionally  sinking  below  the  freezing-point. 
There  are  no  fireplaces  nor  hot-air  furnaces  in  the  houses 
of  Mexico,  which  circumstance  renders  a  stranger  uncom- 
fortable during  damp  and  cold  weather.  Travelers  are 
cautioned  to  be  extremely  careful  to  avoid  taking  cold  on 
reaching  the  capital.  Many  of  the  buildings  are  old,  and 
the  doors  and  windows  do  not  fit  tightly. 

Mexico  can  hardly  be  called  a  healthy  city.  The  great 
desideratum  of  the  capital  is  proper  drainage.  This  sub- 
ject has  been  investigated  by  the  ablest  minds  in  the  coun- 
try from  time  immemorial.  During  the  Spanish  domi- 
nation the  dikes  and  causeways  often  proved  insufficient  to 
protect  the  city  from  floods.     Since  the  foundation  of  the 


180  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

capital,  or  since  the  Conquest,  there  have  been  five  great 
inundations,  viz.,  in  1553,  1580,  1604,  1607,  and  1629-'34. 

In  1607  the  Viceroy  Salinas  began  the  artificial  drain- 
age of  the  lakes,  by  constructing  a  canal  at  Huehuetoca, 
on  the  northern  side  of  the  valley.  This  canal,  or  de- 
sague,  is  described  at  length  in  the  section  on  the  Mexican 
Central  Railroad,  which  now  passes  through  the  remains 
of  it.  The  Indian  system  of  dikes  had  been  temporarily 
abandoned,  and  the  canal  proving  a  failure,  the  result  was 
a  terrible  inundation  in  1629,  which  lasted  five  years. 
During  this  period  communication  was  made  by  means 
of  canoes,  the  seat  of  government  was  removed  to  one  of 
the  suburbs,  trade  was  at  a  stand-still,  and  the  distress  and 
misery  of  the  lower  classes  baffled  all  description.  It  was 
deemed  advisable  to  return  to  the  dike  system,  which  has 
been  preserved  ever  since. 

For  many  years  the  Plaza  mayor  was  only  three  or 
four  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake  Texcoco.  The  level  of  this 
lake  varies  from  year  to  year,  and  there  is  now  a  gauge  on 
the  Plaza  mayor  to  indicate  the  height  of  its  waters. 
Owing  to  evaporation  the  surface  of  the  lake  is  much  lower 
than  during  the  reign  of  the  viceroys.  In  the  winter  of 
1882-'83  it  was  about  six  feet  helow  the  Plaza  mayor. 
There  are  no  cellars  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  water  is 
reached  a  few  feet  below  the  street-pavement.  The  soil  is 
so  soft  that  a  solidly  cemented  foundation  of  lime  and 
stone  is  used  for  the  larger  buildings. 

In  1882  an  American  company  entered  into  a  contract 
with  the  Mexican  Government  to  drain  the  valley  of  Mex- 
ico, agreeing  to  deposit  a  bond  of  1200,000  as  a  guarantee 
to  carry  out  the  scheme.  The  last  session  of  Congress, 
however,  declared  this  contract  forfeited  on  account  of  the 
failure  to  file  the  bond. 

It  has  been  suggested  that  a  thorough  system  of  drain- 
age for  the  capital  would  do  more  harm  than  good,  for  the 


TEE  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.      181 

reason  that  the  heavier  buildings  might  settle  so  much  as 
to  render  them  unsafe.  The  early  Spanish  historians  nar- 
rate that,  before  the  Conquest,  the  valley  of  Mexico  was 
covered  with  dense  forests.  The  foreign  invaders  made 
war  on  these  forests,  as  did  the  Puritans  in  New  England, 
and  to-day,  with  the  exception  of  the  magnificent  grove  of 
C}t,apultepec,  there  are  only  a  few  rows  of  trees  of  recent 
growth  along  the  causeways.* 

The  houses  in  the  capital  are  built  of  heavy  masonry, 
with  stairways  of  stone,  and  with  roofs  and  floors  of  brick 
and  cement.  Each  building  includes  one  or  more  open 
court-yards,  or  patios.  These  patios  are  either  paved  with 
flag-stones,  or  planted  with  flowers  and  shrubbery,  and 
adorned  with  fountains  and  statuary.  In  the  suburbs  the 
dwellings  do  not  generally  exceed  one  story  in  height,  but 
in  the  heart  of  the  city  they  frequently  rise  to  three.  The 
entrance  of  each  house  from  the  street  is  by  a  single  ports 
cochere,  which  is  closed  at  night,  and  attended  by  a  porter, 
who  occupies  an  adjoining  room,  and  who  is  held  respon- 
sible for  the  entries  and  exits. 

The  capital  is  virtually  fire-proof,  it  being  next  to  im- 
possible to  set  fire  to  a  Mexican  house. 

In  dwellings  of  more  than  one  story,  the  upper  floor,  on 
account  of  the  higher  ceilings,  is  always  preferred  as  a  resi- 
dence, although  it  commands  the  highest  rents.  The 
ground-floor  is  commonly  occupied  for  business  purposes — 
e.  g. ,  for  stables,  store-houses,  or  workshops. 

There  are  no  aristocratic  streets  nor  quarters  in  the 
City  of  Mexico,  the  homes  of  both  the  upper  and  lower 

*  The  Mexican  Government  has  recently  made  a  contract  with  Oscar  A. 
Drorge  to  plant  2,000,000  trees  in  the  valley  of  Mexico  within  four  years, 
500,000  a  year,  for  $200,000.  The  contractor  agrees  to  put  in  annually 
80,000  ash,  35,000  willows,  12,000  poplars,  60,000  eucalypti,  60,000  acacias, 
and  other  varieties,  in  plantations  of  from  50,000  to  100,000 ;  and  to  receive 
in  his  nurseries  three  graduates  annually  of  the  Agricultural  School. 


182  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

classes  being  scattered  over  the  metropolis,  and  oftentimes 
being  found  under  the  same  roof. 

The  capital  is  indifferently  watered  by  two  aqueducts 
containing  respectively  clear  and  muddy  water. 

The  supply  is  conducted  by  pi^Dcs  to  numerous  tanks 
and  open  fountains  located  in  all  parts  of  the  city,  whence 
it  is  distributed  for  family  use  by  a  licensed  corps  of  agua- 
dores,  or  water-carriers.  Their  charges  are  from  two  cents 
to  twelve  and  a  half  cents  a  load,  according  to  the  distance 
of  the  fountain  from  the  place  of  delivery. 

The  public  edifices  and  business  houses  are  lighted  with 
gas  of  inferior  quality.  In  private  dwellings  kerosene-oil 
and  stearine  candles  are  generally  used.  Some  quarters  of 
the  city  are  illuminated  with  lamps  of  gasoline  or  petro- 
leum. Recently,  the  electric  light  has  been  employed  on 
the  Plaza  mayor  and  adjacent  streets. 

Places  of  Interest. — 1.  The  Cathedral  and  El  Sagrario.  2.  The  Palace 
and  Maximilian's  Coach.  3.  The  Museum  {El  Museo  Nacional).  4.  The 
Academy  of  San  Carlof:.  5.  The  Mining  School  ( Colegio  de  Mineria).  6. 
The  Mint  {Casa  de  Moneda).  7.  The  Church  of  La  Santissima.  8.  The 
Church  oi  Santo  Domingo.  9.  The  Church  of  ia /'/•o/'esa.  10.  The  Church 
of  Santa  Teresa.  11.  The  Church  of  San  Fernando.  12.  The  Convent  of 
San  Francisco.  13.  The  National  Library  {La  Biblioteca  Nacional).  14. 
The  Park  {La  Alameda).  16.  The  Tivoli  Gardens.  16.  The  Drive 
{Paseo  de  la  Reforma).  17.  The  Canal  {El  Paseo  de  la  Viga).  18.  Alva- 
rado's  Leap  {El  Salto  de  Alvarado). 

In  the  Environs. — 1.  Chapultepec.  2.  Atzcapatzalco  B.\idiihe  Noche-triste 
tree.  3.  Tacubaya  (Military  Academy  and  private  residences).  4.  Gnadahipe 
(church  and  chapel).  5.  La  Piedad  {Al  Fresco,  the  American  Club).  6.  San 
Angel.     All  of  which  are  reached  by  horse-cars  from  the  Plaza  mayor. 

We  have  not  space  enough  to  give  a  minute  account  of 
each  one  of  the  above  objects  of  interest ;  accordingly,  a 
brief  reference  will  be  made  to  them  in  the  above  order  : 

1.  The  tourist  should  ascend  one  of  the  towers  (200 
feet  high)  of  the  Cathedral  for  a  view  of  the  city  (fee,  one 
real).     This  edifice  was  commenced  in  1573,  and  finished 


184  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

in  1667,  at  a  cost  of  $1,750,000.  It  covers  a  space  of  about 
432  X  200  feet.  This  Cathedral  is  the  largest  in  North 
America.  Some  of  the  paintings  within  are  said  to  be  the 
work  of  Murillo.  The  Emperor  Iturhide  is  buried  in  one 
of  tlie  chapels.  The  Aztec  temple,  or  teocalli,  formerly 
occupied  the  site  of  the  Cathedral.  The  famous  Calendar- 
Stone  leans  against  the  wall  of  this  building.  It  is  twelve 
feet  in  diameter,  three  feet  thick,  and  weighs  twenty-five 
tons.  The  Sagrario  has  a  beautifully  carved  facade.  Just 
east  of  it  is  a  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  dis- 
tinguished engineer  Enrico  Martinez,  which  contains  a 
gauge  to  register  the  level  of  Lake  Texcoco  in  the  pedestal. 
2.  The  Palace,  which  is  built  on  the  site  of  that  of 
Montezuma,  is  the  largest  building  in  Mexico,  the  front 
measuring  675  feet.  It  contains  the  Embassadors'  Hall,  or 
Sola  de  Emhajadores,  and  Maximilian's  Coach.  The  for- 
mer is  a  room  about  310x30  feet,  with  a  throne  at  the 
southern  end  for  the  President  and  his  Cabinet.  It  has, 
among  other  objects,  full-length  portraits  by  Segredo  and 
other  Mexican  artists  of  the  heroes  of  the  War  of  Inde- 
pendence, such  as  Hidalgo,  Blorelos,  Allende,  and  others ; 
also  portraits  of  Juarez,  Diaz,  and  Washington,  and  a  large 
painting  of  the  great  battle  of  Puehla,  of  May  5,  1862. 
Maximilian's  Coach  is  in  a  room  on  the  ground-floor, 
near  the  center  of  the  Palace.  The  body  of  the  vehicle  is 
painted  dark  red.  The  wheels  are  gilded,  and  the  interior 
is  lined  with  Avhite-silk  brocade,  with  trimmings  of  heavy 
silver  thread.  There  is  no  other  coach  of  equal  magnifi- 
cence in  tlie  Western  World.  It  surpasses  in  elegance  the 
imperial  carriages  of  Eussia.  Strangers  should  not  fail  to 
see  it.  The  doors  of  the  Embassadors'  Hall  and  of  the 
room  containing  the  coach  are  always  locked.  The  keys 
may  be  obtained  at  the  office  of  the  Governor  of  the  Pal- 
ace, which  is  near  the  middle  door  of  the  facade.  (A 
fee  of  one  real  should  be  paid   to  the  7nozo  who  shows 


THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.      185 


the  traveler  the  coach,  and  tivo  reales  to  the  servant  who 
opens  the  door  of  the  Sala  de  Einbaj adores.) 

The  Cathedral  and 
Palace  are  situated  on 
the  Plaza  mayor,  in 
the  center  of  which  is 
the  zocalo. 

3.  The  Museum 
contains  the  sacrificial 
stone  and  many  idols 
on  the  ground-floor; 
and  Maximilian's  sil- 
ver service,  several 
portraits,  a  large  col- 
lection of  Mexican  cu- 
riosities, chiefly  pot- 
tery, and  photographs 
of  the  ruins  of  Yuca-  QuetzaUoatl. 

tan  and  Chiapas,  are 

found  on  the  second  story.     It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the 
latter  part  of  the  Museum  is  open  to  the  public  only  on 


Feathered  Serpent. 
These  idols  are  in  i\xQ  patio  of  the  Museum. 


186 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


Simdays  from  10  a.  m.  to  1  p.  m.,  Tuesdays  from  10  A.  m. 
to  12  M.,  and  Thursdays  from  3  to  5  p.  m. 

The  court-yard  is  always  open  to  visitors.  The  sacri- 
ficial stone  {Piedra  de  los  sacrificios)  is  the  principal  ob- 
ject of  interest.     It  is  8f  feet  in  diameter,  2f  feet  high,  and 

27|-  feet  in  circumference.  It 
was  found  in  the  Plaza  mayor  on 
December  17,  1791.  The  num- 
ber of  human  beings  sacrificed  on 
this  celebrated  stone  is  estimated 
at  sixty  thousand! 

The  manner  of  sacrifice  was 
as  follows  :  The  victim  was  made 
to  lie  down,  his  feet  and  hands 
were  held  by  four  priests  in  gaudy 
attire,  while  a  fifth  pierced  his 
breast  with  a  razor  of  itztU,  or 
volcanic  glass.  The  latter  then 
inserted  his  hand  into  the  wound, 
and,  tearing  out  the  heart,  threw 
it  at  the  foot  of  the  adjoining 
idol.  The  reader  is  referred  to 
Prescott's  Conquest  of  Mexico, 
vol.  i,  pages  74-86, 
for  a  full  descrip- 
tion of  human  sac- 
rifices. We  have 
not  space  to  de- 
scribe the  serpent- 
idols  and  other  objects,  the  number  of  which  is  forty-seven. 
Small  catalogues  in  Spanish  are  sold  at  the  door.  It  may 
be  said  that  the  collections  made  by  M.  Charnay  in  South- 
ern Mexico,  through  the  liberality  of  Pierre  Lorillard,  Esq., 
of  New  York,  are  in  the  museum,  although  not  on  exliibi- 
tion,  witli  the  exception  of  a  few  objects.     It  was  the  jour- 


Teoyaomiqui. 


THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.      187 

pose  of  M.  Charnay  to  send  his  collections  of  antiquities 
to  Paris,  but  the  Mexican  Congress  refused  to  pass  a  bill 
allowing  the  articles  to  be  taken  out  of  the  country. 

4.  The  Academy  of  San  Carlos  is  the  only  academy 
of  the  fine  arts  in  the  country,  except  one  at  Guadalajara. 
It  contains  a  large  number  of  paintings  and  some  plaster 
casts  of  well-known  statues.  Most  of  the  pictures  are  the 
work  of  foreign  artists,  such  as  Zuriaran,  Murillo,  Ru- 
bens, Correggio,  and  Velasquez.  Some  of  them  have  been 
painted  by  Mexicans,  and  possess  considerable  merit.  The 
principal  native  artists  are  Jose  and  Luis  Juarez,  Cahrera, 
Parra,  and  Balthazar  cle  Chave.  Unfortunately,  there  is 
no  catalogue  of  the  pictures.  An  art-school  is  connected 
with  the  academy.     (  Vide  Chapter  XXII. ) 

6.  The  Mining  School  was  considered  by  Humboldt 
as  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  country.  It  occupies 
a  lot  300  X  340  feet,  and  has  collections  of  rocks,  minerals, 
and  fossils,  chiefly  from  Mexico.     It  cost  $1,500,000. 

6.  The  Mint  is  the  oldest  in  Mexico.  It  is  open  from 
8  A.  M.  to  5  p.  M. 

7.  The  Church  of  La  Santissima  is  noted  for  the  ex- 
quisite carvings  on  the  fagade. 

8.  The  Church  of  Santo  Domingo,  in  a  square  of  the 
same  name,  possesses  beautiful  gilt  wood- work,  some  old 
paintings,  and  a  wooden  model  of  the  Saviour,  in  a  recum- 
bent attitude,  and  wearing  a  crown  of  thorns.  Persons 
entering  the  church  kiss  the  toe  of  this  figure  in  the  same 
manner  as  devout  Eoman  Catholics  kiss  the  statue  of  St. 
Peter  at  Eome.  A  table  stands  near  the  image  to  receive 
offerings  {limosnas).  The  ruins  of  a  convent,  overgrown 
with  weeds,  are  in  the  rear  of  the  church.  The  Custom- 
House  and  Medical  School  are  situated  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo.  The  latter  was  once  used 
by  the  Inquisition,  and  it  now  has  a  library  and  anatomical 
museum. 


188  CITIES  AKD  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

11.  The  Cliiirch  of  San"  Feenakdo  contains  the  ashes 
of  the  unfortunate  Generals  Mejia  and  Miramon. 

16.  The  Paseo  de  la  Eefokma  (sometimes  called  El 
Paseo  de  Bucareli),  or  "Empress  Drive,"  leads  from  the 
Alameda  to  Chapultepec.  Statues  of  Charles  IV  oi  Spain, 
Christopher  Columbus,  and  President  Juarez,  have  been 
erected  on  the  Paseo.  The  fashionable  hour  for  driving  is 
from  5  to  6  p.  m. 

17.  The  Cazstal,  adjoining  the  Paseo  de  la  Viga,  pre- 
sents a  busy  scene  in  the  early  morning.  The  Indians 
bring  their  fruits  and  vegetables  to  market,  and  the  canal 
is  crowded  with  their  rafts  and  canoes.  The  tourist  should 
hire  a  canoe  and  visit  either  Lake  Texcoco,  about  three 
miles  distant,  or  the  "  vegetable  "  gardens,  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  terminus  of  tlie  "  Viga  "  horse-car  track.  A  party 
of  three  or  four  persons  may  employ  an  Indian  to  paddle 
them  to  the  gardens  for  the  sum  of  one  dollar.  There  is 
no  tariff  of  charges,  and  a  bargain  must  be  made.  Sailing 
through  the  narrow  canals  cut  in  the  marshy  soil,  where 
fruits,  vegetables,  and  flowers  grow  abundantly,  the  traveler 
may  form  some  idea  of  the  ancient  aspect  of  the  Venice  of 
the  New  World.  The  chinampas,  or  so-called  jloatijig  isl- 
ajids,  which  have  always  excited  the  wonder  of  foreigners, 
are  never  seen  at  the  present  day.  They  were  formed  of 
small  masses  of  earth,  covered  with  herbs,  and  held  togeth- 
er by  roots,  and  are  detached  from  the  shore  of  the  lagoon 
by  the  waves  during  stormy  weather.  These  gardens  are 
known  to  have  been  in  use  as  far  back  as  the  end  of  the 
fourteenth  century.  They  were  afterward  artificially  con- 
structed by  making  rafts  of  reeds,  rushes,  roots,  and  brush- 
wood, and  covering  these  with  black  mold  naturally  im- 
pregnated with  muriate  of  soda,  but  gradually  purified  from 
the  salt  and  rendered  fertile  by  washing  it  with  the  water 
of  the  lake.  Some  of  the  chinampas  are  movable  and 
driven  about  by  the  winds,  but  others  are  anchored  or  at- 


THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.      189 

tached  to  the  shore,  and  are  towed  or  pushed  with  poles 
from  one  spot  to  another.  The  Indians  occasionally  built 
huts  on  these  cJiijiamjxis,  and  are  said  to  have  raised  vege- 
tables on  them. 

18.  Alvaeado's  Leap  is  marked  by  a  small  bridge  in 
the  Ccille  de  los  Hombres  Ilustres,  just  west  of  the  Alame- 
da. The  San  Cosme  horse-cars  pass  the  spot.  This  street 
was  formerly  a  causeway  leading  from  the  capital  toward 
the  mainland,  over  which  the  Spaniards  passed  in  the 
evacuation  of  the  city  on  the  memorable  noclie  triste,  or 
"sad  night"  of  July  1,  1520.  The  portable  bridge  over  a 
breach  in  the  causeway  had  been  destroyed,  and  Alvarado, 
unwilling  to  plunge  into  the  waters  of  the  lake,  paused 
upon  the  brink  for  a  moment.  Eesting  his  long  lance  on 
the  ground,  he  succeeded  in  leaping  across  the  gap,  to  the 
great  astonishment  of  both  the  Spaniards  and  Aztecs.  This 
place  has  ever  since  been  known  as  the  Salto  de  Alvarado. 
As  the  width  of  the  breach  is  not  given  by  the  chroniclers 
of  the  time,  the  reader  can  have  no  means  of  judging  how 
skillful  a  pole-vaulter  this  Spanish  warrior  may  have  been. 

A  card  of  admission  must  be  obtained  at  the  Palace  for 
permission  to  enter  ViXQ  castle  of  Chapultepec*  During 
the  French  invasion  the  castle  was  occupied  by  Maximilian, 
that  personator  of  Napoleon's  dream  of  empire  in  the  West- 
em  World.  The  view  from  Cliapultepec  is  one  of  surpass- 
ing beauty,  and  the  grounds  contain  a  magnificent  grove 
consisting  chiefly  of  cedars  draped  with  Spanish  moss. 
One  of  the  trees  has  been  named  after  Montezuma.  The 
stranger  is  ad\ised  to  hire  an  open  carriage  by  the  hour, 
and  drive  to  Chapultepec  and  the  neighboring  town  of 
Tacubaya,  visiting  the  Military  School  and  stately  villas  if 
possible. 

The  celebrated  Noche-triste  tree  is  situated  in  the  vil- 
lage of  Popotla,  near  an  old  church.    Cortes  is  said  to  have 

*  Chapultepec  means  "  grasshopper's  hill." 


190 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES   OF  TRAVEL. 


sat  under  this  tree  and  cried  over  his  misfortunes,  after 
the  disastrous  retreat  of  the  SjDaniards  during  the  night 
of  the  evacuation.  The  tree  is  known  to  the  Indians  as 
the  ahuehuete,  and  is  called  a  sabino  in  Spanish.  It  is  a 
species  of  cedar,  and  is  ten  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base  and 


The  Noche-triste  Tree. 


about  forty  feet  high.  An  iron  railing  surrounds  it.  The 
Atzcapotzalco  horse-cars  run  through  the  Riviera  de  San 
Cosme,  passing  Alvarado's  Leap,  the  houses  of  the  foreign 
legations,  the  Tivoli  Gardens,  the  School  of  Agriculture, 
the  Tlaxpana  aqueduct,  and  the  noclie-triste  tree,  before 


THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.      191 

reaching  their  destination.  This  aqueduct  was  built  by  the 
Spaniards,  and  contains  the  agua  delgada,  or  soft  water. 
It  has  nine  hundred  arches  of  about  fifteen  feet  in  height, 
each  of  which  is  said  to  have  cost  $1,000.  At  San  Cosme 
the  aqueduct  terminates,  and  the  water  is  conducted  under- 
ground in  pipes  to  the  heart  of  the  city. 

The  causeway  that  leads  to  Popotla  and  Atzcapotzalco 
is  bordered  on  either  side  with  a  deep  ditch  into  which  the 
water  drains  and  becomes  stagnant.  The  surrounding  re- 
gion, which  is  now  much  lower  than  the  causeway,  was 
formerly  a  part  of  the  great  Mexican  lagoon.  Many  of 
Cortes's  soldiers  were  drowned  here  on  the  ''sad  night." 

The  suburb  of  Guadalupe  is  remarkable  for  its  cathe- 
dral and  chapel.  It  is  reached  by  horse-cars  from  the 
Plaza  mayor  in  about  thirty  minutes.  The  cathedral  is  a 
massive  brick  edifice,  with  four  towers  around  a  central 
dome.  The  interior  is  noted  for  the  solid  silver  railing, 
about  three  feet  high,  which  leads  from  the  choir  to  the 
high  altar  and  extends  around  the  edge  of  the  latter.  The 
famous  picture  of  the  Virgin  hangs  in  the  high  altnr.  The 
choir  is  adorned  with  artistic  wooden  carvings,  and  there 
is  a  large  organ  on  each  side  of  it.  There  are  a  great  many 
ex-votos  hung  on  the  wall  of  the  cathedral  near  the  main 
entrance.  They  are  principally  cheaj)  oil-paintings  and 
wax-work. 

The  sanctuary  of  Guadalupe  is,  perhaps,  the  most  cele- 
brated in  the  Republic,  and  the  story  of  how  it  was  built 
and  named  after  JSfuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe  is  interest- 
ing. The  tradition  is  as  follows  :  An  Indian  called  Juan 
Diego  worked  in  the  vicinity  of  Guadalupe.  On  one  occa- 
sion, while  crossing  the  hill  of  Tepeyacac  that  rises  behind 
the  town,  he  saw  a  rainbow,  in  the  middle  of  which  was  a 
beautiful  woman  encompassed  by  a  white  cloud.  Upon 
approaching  the  figure,  the  Indian  Avas  told  that  she  was 
the  mother  of  God.     The  Virgin  said  that  she  desired  a 


THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.      193 

temple  to  be  built  in  that  place,  and  that  she  would  render 
aid  and  protection  to  all  believers  who  would  call  upon  her 
when  in  trouble.  She  further  commanded  him  to  report 
to  the  Bishop  of  Mexico  what  had  taken  place.  The  Indian 
did  as  he  was  directed,  but  Zumarraga,  who  was  then  bishop, 
discredited  his  statement.  The  Virgin  appeared  to  the  In- 
dian several  times  afterward,  and  on  one  occasion  ordered 
him  to  pick  flowers  from  the  barren  mountain  and  take 
them  to  the  bishop.  Accordingly,  he  gathered  beautiful 
flowers  where  none  had  previously  grown,  and  carried  them 
in  his  tilma  or  cloak  to  the  episcopal  palace.  After  telling 
his  story,  the  Indian  dropped  the  flowers  on  the  floor,  when 
suddenly  the  bishop  fell  on  his  knees  at  the  sight  of  the 
image  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  that  appeared  to  be  jiainted 
on  the  cloak  of  Juan  Diego. 

A  long  poem  has  been  written  on  this  miraculous  ap- 
pearance of  the  Virgin,  and  it  is  sold  in  book-form  at  the 
door  of  the  cathedral.  Eibbons  of  various  colors,  giving 
the  size  of  the  head  of  Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe,  are  also 
offered  for  sale.  A  high  mass  is  celebrated  on  the  12th 
day  of  every  month,  and  on  the  12th  of  December  a  great 
religious  festival  takes  place,  which  is  attended  by  persons 
from  all  parts  of  the  Republic.  It  is  the  anniversary  of 
the  day  upon  which  the  Virgin  first  appeared  to  Juan 
Diego.  Among  the  illustrious  dead  buried  in  this  cathe- 
dral are  the  Viceroy  Bucareli  and  Colonel  Obregon.  The 
original  flag  that  was  carried  by  Hidalgo  in  1810  is  de- 
posited here. 

The  chapel  of  Ouadalupe  is  situated  on  a  hill  directly 
behind  the  cathedral.  A  good  view  of  the  valley  of  Mex- 
ico may  be  obtained  from  the  fapade  of  the  former. 

The  famous  Treaty  of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo  was  signed  at 
this  place  on  the  2d  of  February,  1848. 

The  battle-fields  of  Cliapulteiiec,  Molino  del  Rey,  and 
Cheruhusco,  lie  a  few  miles  south  of  the  capital.     A  hand- 

9 


194  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

some  stone  monument  has  been  erected,  by  Generals  Diaz 
and  Gonzalez,  near  the  castle  of  CJiapultepec,  to  the  mem- 
ory of  the  heroes  of  the  war  of  1847. 

The  tourist  will  have  some  difficulty  in  finding  his  way 
about  the  streets  of  the  City  of  Mexico,  as  each  block  has  a 
different  name.  Some  streets  have  the  same  appellation 
for  two  or  three  squares,  with  a  number  added  to  each  one 
— e.  g.,  la,  2 da,  and  8ra  de  San  Francisco. 

The  principal  business  thoroughfare  is  the  Calle  de  Pla- 
ter os,  which  leads  from  the  Plaza  mayor  toward  the  Ala- 
meda. 

The  finest  shops  in  Mexico  are  on  this  street ;  English 
and  French  are  spoken  in  some  of  them.  Several  new 
buildings  are  being  erected,  and  others  improved,  in  this 
part  of  the  city. 

A  walk  through  the  colonnades  known  as  the  Portal 
Mercaderes  will  be  found  interesting.  The  military  band 
plays  in  the  adjoining  zocalo  four  evenings  in  the  week. 

Strangers  will  be  pleased  with  the  variety  of  Mexican 
costumes  seen  in  the  public  squares.  The  black-cloth  suits 
ornamented  with  silver  buttons,  and  broad-brimmed  felt 
hats  with  silver  bands,  are  the  most  picturesque  of  all. 

A  great  deal  oi  pulque  is  consumed  in  the  national  cap- 
ital, and  the  traveler  will  meet  many  intoxicated  persons 
on  the  street.  It  is  said  that  there  are  two  thousand  shops, 
or  pulquerias,  in  the  city,  at  which  thirty  thousand  gallons 
oi  pulque  are  consumed  daily. 

If  the  tourist  has  but  a  single  day  to  spend  in  the  cap- 
ital, he  should  visit  the  Cathedral,  Palace,  Museum,  Acad- 
emy of  San  Cai^los,  Church  of  Santo  Domingo,  Paseo  de 
la  Reforma,  Chapultepec,  and  go  to  the  opera  in  the 
evening. 

There  is  some  kind  of  opera,  either  French,  Spanish, 
or  Italian,  nearly  all  the  year  round. 


196  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

EXCURSIOJSrS   AROUXD   THE   CAPITAL. 

We  "would  advise  the  tourist  to  leave  his  trunk  at  some 
hotel  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  make  short  trips  in  all 
directions. 

The  best  excursions  are  as  follows  : 

1.  From  Mexico  to  Celaya  via  Mexican  Central  Railroad,  and  return  via 

Marat ATio  and  Toluca.     This  route  is  described  in  Sections  IV  and  V. 

2.  To  the  Pyramids  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan.     Distance,  25  miles. 

Take  the  morning  train  to  the  station  of  the  same  name 
on  the  Mexican  Railway,  and  walk  or  drive  to  the  pyramids, 
about  two  miles  distant.  The  larger  one  is  dedicated  to  the 
Sun,  and  the  other  is  called  the  pyramid  of  the  Moon.  An 
extensive  view  may  be  had  from  the  summit  of  the  former. 
The  valley  of  Mexico  is  clearly  seen,  and  in  the  distant 
south  the  Nevado  de  Toluca  is  visible.  (See  chapter  on 
ruins  for  a  complete  description  of  the  teocalUs.)  There 
are  no  hotel  accommodations  at  San  Juan  Teotihuacan. 
A  bad  fondita  may  be  found  in  the  town,  but  the  traveler  is 
recommended  to  carry  provisions  with  him  from  the  capi- 
tal, and  return  by  the  afternoon  train. 

3.  From  Mexico  to  Pachuca.     Distance,  57  miles. 

PacJiuca  contains  some  of  the  oldest  mines  in  the  Re- 
public. Many  of  them  were  worked  long  before  the  Span- 
ish Conquest.  The  town  lies  in  the  State  of  Hidalgo,  and 
is  reached  by  rail  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Irolo,  and 
thence  by  tramway.  (Hotel,  San  Carlos. )  There  is  a  gov- 
ernmental school  of  practical  mining  here.  The  popula- 
tion of  Pachuca  is  about  13,000,  of  which  5,000  are  miners, 
and  the  altitude,  as  measured  by  Humboldt,  is  8,150  feet. 
A  great  many  Cornishmen  are  employed  here,  although  this 
mining  district  is  one  out  of  a  very  few  in  which  European 
or  American  miners  have  been  introduced.  Pachuca  con- 
tains about  one  hundred  and  fifty  mines,  and  Real  del 


THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.      197 

Monte  lias  seventy-five  of  them.  The  ore  is  composed 
mainly  of  blackish  silver  sulphides.  Several  English  com- 
panies have  established  themselves  in  Fachuca,  and  an 
American  company  has  recently  been  organized  to  work 
the  tailings  of  some  of  the  older  mines.  It  is  highly  prob- 
able that  imjn'oved  mining  machinery  will  soon  be  used  in 
this  district.  Compressed  cakes  of  English  coal  are  im- 
ported at  the  rate  of  $22  a  ton  !  It  is  said  that  a  valuable 
deposit  of  coal  has  lately  been  discovered  in  the  vicinity. 
Excursions  may  easily  be  made  from  Pacliuca  to  the  ad- 
joining mining  town  of  Real  del  Monte  (elevation,  9,057 
feet),  and  to  the  town  and  cascade  of  Regla,  and  also  to 
the  village  of  El  Cliico. 

4.  From  Mexico  to  Clerxavaca.  Distance,  47  miles  by  diligence.  Fare, 
$4.50.  Time,  nine  and  a  half  hours.  Stage-coaches  run  three  times 
a  week. 

Leaving  Mexico,  the  road  leads  over  a  causeway,  bor- 
dered with  a  row  of  poplars  on  either  side,  to  the  suburb 
of  Tlalpam,  about  seven  miles  distant.  A  horse-car  track 
runs  parallel  with  the  road.  Thence  the  route  turns  to  the 
southeast,  and  lies  over  a  sandy  region  as  far  as  the  end  of 
the  valley  of  Mexico. 

The  lofty  mountain  of  Ajusco  is  seen  on  the  west,  and 
the  Lake  of  Xochimilco  on  the  east.  The  diligence  now 
begins  to  ascend  the  pass  leading  through  the  ridge  which 
forms  the  southern  boundary  of  the  plateau  of  Anahuac. 
The  roadway  is  smooth,  and  kept  in  good  order  as  far  as 
the  summit,  and  the  grade  is  moderate.  As  the  stage-coach 
climbs  the  winding  pass,  the  tourist  soon  obtains  a  beauti- 
ful view  of  the  valley  of  Mexico,  whose  surface  is  dotted 
with  various  extinct  volcanoes,  and  the  several  lakes  that 
have  already  been  mentioned.  Picturesque  villages  are 
scattered  over  the  oval-shaped  plain. 

Proceeding  farther,  the  traveler  enters  a  region  cov- 


il:^ 


THE   CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.      199 

ered  with  thick  grass,  interspersed  with  pines  and  spruces, 
reminding  him  of  a  northern  flora.  Many  pack-trains  of 
burros,  or  donkeys,  are  seen  on  the  road.  They  carry,  prin- 
cipally, fruit  and  vegetables  to  the  capital.  The  diligence 
stops  for  lunch  at  a  hamlet  on  the  ridge-line,  where  the  road 
is  level  for  about  two  miles.  Soon  the  summit  of  the  pass 
is  reached,  the  spot  being  marked  by  a  stone  cross,  which 
is  said  to  have  been  erected  by  Cortes.  This  cross  marks 
the  northern  boundary-line  of  the  grant  of  Montezuma  to 
the  Conqueror.  According  to  the  measurement  of  an  ane- 
roid barometer,  the  elevation  of  this  point  is  9,540  feet. 

The  road  now  descends  gradually.  It  is  stony,  and 
much  rougher  than  the  northern  portion  of  the  route. 
Fortunately  for  tourists,  however,  this  highway  is  undergo- 
ing repairs,  and  is  already  the  best  and,  perhaj^s,  the  oldest 
line  of  travel  for  diligences  in  the  Eepublic.  As  the  ob- 
server continues  on  his  journey  down-hill,  he  will  see  the 
distant  city  of  Cuernavaca  on  the  south.  The  city  lies  on 
a  mesa,  or  natural  terrace,  beyond  which  is  a  broad  valley 
running  east  and  west. 

The  coach  soon  reaches  another  hamlet,  and  the  animals 
are  changed  for  the  last  time.  Five  mules,  instead  of  eight, 
are  sufficient  to  draw  the  vehicle  over  the  rapidly  descend- 
ing grade,  and  in  about  an  hour  the  tourist  arrives  at  his 
destination. 

CUERKAVACA. 

Population,  16,320.     Elevation,  5,380  feet,  according  to  Humboldt. 

Hotels. — San  Pedro  and  Del  Fenix,  both  on  the  plaza. 

Baths,  one  block  north  of  the  San  Pedro. 

Places  of  Interest. — 1.  Cortes's  Palace.  2.  The  Parochial  Church. 
3.  The  Church  of  Guadalupe.  4.  The  Borda  Gardens.  5.  Maximilian's 
villa  at  Acapancingo. 

Cuernavaca,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Morelos,  was 
originally  called  Quauhnaliuac  {i.  e.,  near  the  beautiful 
hills),  a  term  given  to  it  by  the  Tlahuicos,  who  were  the 


200  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

founders  of  the  city.  It  was  conquered  by  tlie  Spaniards 
in  April,  1521.  Both  of  the  foreign  usurpers,  Cortes  and 
Maximilian,  made  this  place  their  favorite  winter  resort. 

Cortes's  Palace  is  now  used  as  a  court-house,  and  has 
been  rebuilt  since  the  Independence  of  Mexico.  The  Bor- 
da  Gardens,  once  very  beautiful,  are  in  ruins.  They  are 
on  the  western  edge  of  the  town,  and  are  worthy  of  a  visit. 
Maximilian's  villa  is  now  used  as  a  school-house.  It  is 
called  El  Colegio  de  Ninas.  A  handsome  garden  adjoins 
the  villa,  but  it  is  not  in  good  condition.  Cotton,  coffee, 
bananas,  and  palms,  besides  flowers,  grow  here.  The  unfor- 
tunate emperor  occupied  this  place  from  January  to  Octo- 
ber, in  1866.  He  is  said  to  have  built  the  charming  villa 
at  his  own  expense.  The  snow- clad  mountains  of  Popo- 
catepetl and  IztaccUmatl  are  in  full  view,  and  lie  about 
twenty-five  miles  to  the  eastward. 

The  village  of  Acapayicingo  is  situated  about  one  mile 
and  a  half  southeast  of  Cuernavaca.  There  was  once  a 
good  wagon-road  thither,  but  now  it  is  practicable  only  for 
horsemen  and  pedestrians. 

Much  sugar-cane  is  grown  in  the  neighborhood,  and  a 
crop  may  be  reaped  within  twelve  months  after  planting 
the  cuttings. 

The  tourist  should  visit  the  temple  or  fortress  of  Xoclii- 
calco,  which  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  remains  on 
Mexican  soil.  It  lies  eighteen  miles  from  Cuernavaca,  on 
a  rocky  eminence,  almost  a  league  in  circumference,  which 
is  cut  into  terraces  faced  with  stone.  The  building  on  the 
summit  is  seventy-five  by  sixty-six  feet  in  area.  It  is  of 
hewn  granite,  and  was  constructed  in  the  usual  pyramidal- 
terraced  form.  A  few  years  ago  this  temple  was  used  as  a 
sugar-refinery. 

An  excursion  may  be  taken  from  Cuernavaca  to  the 
famous  cave  of  Cacahuamilpa,  which  lies  in  a  limestone  re- 
gion, about  forty  miles  south  of  the  city.    It  can  be  reached 


THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  ENVIRONS.      201 

by  wagon  or  horseback.  As  no  hotel  accommodations  are 
to  be  had,  the  tourist  is  advised  to  carry  blankets  and  pro- 
visions for  three  days.  The  cave  has  not  yet  been  fully  ex- 
plored. 

A  trijD  to  Tasco  (fifty-four  miles  distant)  may  also  be 
made  from  Cuernavaca.  The  town  contains  silver-mines 
that  were  worked  before  the  Conquest.  It  has  also  a  beau- 
tiful parish  church.  The  altitude  of  Tasco  is  5,852  feet, 
according  to  Humboldt. 

5.  From  Mexico  to  Cuautla. 

This  excursion  may  include  the  great  volcano  of  Popo- 
catepetl.    (The  entire  route  is  described  in  Section  VIIL) 


Indian  Hut  in  the  Tiei-ra  CalieiUii, 


SECTION    IV. 

The  Mexican  National  Railway    (Compania   Constnictora 
Nacional  Mexicana). 

(For  description  of  this  railway,  see  Part  First.) 
We  will  first  sketch  the  western  branch  of  this  railway, 
from  Mexico  to  Manzanillo,  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  then 
give  an  account  of  the  northern  route,  from  Acamharo 
Junction  to  Laredo  and  Corpus  Ghristi.  The  region  adja- 
cent to  the  railroad,  and  connections  by  stage  and  horseback 
with  stations  along  the  line,  will  be  described  in  detail. 

Route  I. 
FROM   THE    CITY    OF   MEXICO   TO    MANZANILLO. 

1.  Mexico  to  Toluca. 

2.  Toluca  to  Maravatio. 

3.  Maravatio  to  Morelia. 

4.  Morelia  to  Pdtzcuaro  and  thence  to  Manzanillo. 

5.  Pdtzcuaro  via  Ario  to  Jorullo. 

1.  From  Mexico  to  Toluca,  73  kilometres,  or  45^  miles.     Time,  Zh,  hours. 
Two  passenger-trains  daily.     Take  left-hand  side  of  the  train  for  view. 

Leaving  the  station  of  Colonia,  the  line  j^asses  over  the 
fertile  plain  of  Mexico.  The  castle  of  Chapultepec  is  seen 
on  the  left.  The  first  station  is  Unioji  de  Taenia  (4 '59 
kilometres)  ;  the  next  station  is  Unio7i  de  Naucalpan  (8*63 
kilometres).  Now  the  land  begins  to  rise,  and  the  grade 
soon  becomes  very  heavy.  Passing  the  hamlet  of  San  Bar- 
tolo  (9-18  kilometres),  we  reach  Rio  Hondo  (14*28  kilome- 


THE  MEXICAJ^  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         203 

tres),  where  the  elevation  is  7,550  feet,  or  203  feet  above  the 
capital.  The  track  soon  enters  the  foot-hills  of  the  ridge 
forming  the  western  boundary  of  the  valley  of  Mexico. 

There  are  many  cuts  through  the  alluvial  drift  and 
clay.  JSfopales,  or  cactus-trees,  are  very  common  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  line  of  the  railroad. 

After  passing  Rio  Hondo  a  heavy  grade  begins.  The 
train  crosses  gulches,  with  roaring  brooks  at  the  bottom. 
On  the  northern  side  of  the  track,  and  near  the  station  of 
San  Bartolito  (22  "09  kilometres),  traces  of  an  ancient  aque- 
duct are  seen.  We  soon  pass  through  a  cut  in  granite  rock, 
and  then  stop  at  the  station  of  Dos  Bios  (37 '15  kilometres). 

The  road  now  enters  a  picturesque  valley  half  a  mile  in 
breadth,  where  some  maize  is  grown.  The  farms  are  di- 
vided by  long  hedges  of  the  maguey,  which  appear  to  take 
the  place  of  fences.  The  natives  cover  the  roofs  of  their 
huts  with  heavy  stones,  to  prevent  the  wind  from  blowing 
them  away.  The  traveler  will  observe  towers  about  ten 
feet  high  adjoining  the  houses.  They  are  cribs  for  storing 
corn,  and  are  called  cincolotes. 

This  region  has  a  sparse  population  ;  only  a  few  huts  of 
stone  and  straw  are  to  be  seen.  The  track  skirts  the  sides 
of  enormous  ravines  or  harrancas.  The  next  station  is  Via 
de  Escape  Tunnel  (30 '46  kilometres).  We  can  now  look 
across  the  valley,  where  the  track  is  much  higher  than  our 
place  of  observation.  After  passing  through  the  tunnel  and 
winding  round  long  curves,  having  in  places  a  compen- 
sated grade  of  about  four  per  cent,  the  tourist,  on  glancing 
back,  will  have  a  fine  view  of  the  distant  valley  of  Mexico, 
with  the  stately  capital  and  picturesque  sierras  beyond. 
The  famous  home  of  the  Aztecs  appears  to  be  surrounded 
by  lakes.  The  valley  below  the  line  of  the  railroad  bears 
the  name  of  San  Lazar,  and  the  hamlet  on  the  hill  bound- 
ing the  south  side  of  the  canon  is  called  San  Franciscito. 
We  next  reach  the  station  of  Escape  de  San  Martin  (35*30 


204  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

kilometres).  The  pines,  spruces,  and  other  trees  of  a 
stunted  character,  remind  the  traveler  that  he  has  ascend- 
ed to  a  great  elevation.  Leaving  the  valley  and  going 
through  several  cuts  in  the  solid  rock,  the  train  arrives 
at  Cima,  or  Summit  (39 '12  kilometres).  This  is  the 
highest  point  of  the  railroad,  and  would  be  called  the 
"divide"  by  Americans.  Its  elevation  is  9,974  feet  above 
tide-water.  It  is  the  highest  railway-station  in  Mexico. 
The  brook  on  the  south  side  of  the  track,  which  the  tourist 
has  just  passed,  is  the  Rio  Hondo.  It  flows  into  the  valley 
of  Mexico  ;  while  the  little  stream  on  the  north  side  of  the 
railroad  is  the  south  fork  of  the  Rio  Lenna  (one  of  the 
largest  rivers  of  the  Eepublic),  which,  after  traversing  the 
States  of  Mexico,  Michoacan,  and  Guanajuato,  empties  into 
the  Lake  of  Chapala. 

The  rock  at  Cima  is  a  reddish  trachyte,  and  is  used  to 
ballast  the  track.  The  road  now  crosses  a  flat,  grassy 
plateau.  The  next  station  is  Salazar  (41*29  kilometres). 
There  is  a  bar  as  well  as  a  lunch-room  in  the  station.  The 
scenery  in  the  vicinity  closely  resembles  that  of  the  Kocky 
Mountains.  The  pines  and  spruces  attain  a  considerable 
height.  The  grade  soon  begins  to  descend,  and  the  view 
henceforth  is  better  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  car.  The 
train  follows  the  course  of  the  Rio  Lerma,  crosses  the  old 
stage-road,  and  arrives  at  the  station  Camino  de  Toluca 
(44*51  kilometres).  The  tourist  may  now  see  the  majestic 
snow-clad  mountain,  the  Nevado  de  Toluca,  an  extinct 
volcano,  15,156  feet  high,  and  about  twenty  miles  distant. 
The  track  crosses  a  bridge  built  over  a  ravine.  An  aque- 
duct is  being  constructed  at  the  bottom,  to  carry  the  water 
of  the  Rio  Lerma  to  the  flour-mill  at  JajaJpa.  Soon  the 
station  of  Jajalpa  (51*24  kilometres)  is  reached.  Here  the 
elevation  is  8,872  feet.  It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  one  of 
the  few  steam  flour-mills  in  the  country  is  found  at  this 
town.     Wood  is  brought  from  the  neighboring   hills   for 


THE  MEXICAN'  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         205 

fuel.  Fine  wheat  grows  here,  and  the  maguey  is  also  cul- 
tivated. The  track  now  winds  round  many  long  curves, 
and  presently  a  grand  view  of  the  broad  valley  of  Toluca  is 
obtained.  Looking  out  of  the  car-window,  the  observer 
may  see  the  line  of  the  road  far  below  him. 

The  next  station  is  Caniino  de  Ocoyoacac  (55*40  kilo- 
metres). The  train  runs  along  the  side  of  the  mountains, 
and  soon  the  town  of  Ocoyoacac  is  seen  in  the  plain  below. 
The  streets  are  well  laid  out,  and  there  is  considerable  stir 
on  the  plaza,  but  the  church  is  by  far  the  most  conspicu- 
ous object,  as  it  is  ia  other  Mexican  and  Spanish  towns. 
We  now  arrive  at  the  station  of  Lerma  (59 '55  kilometres). 
The  elevation  of  this  place  is  8,456  feet.  The  houses  of 
Lerma  are  built  of  adobe,  with  tile  roofs.  Much  maguey  is 
grown  in  the  vicinity.  The  pulque  from  the  valley  of  To- 
luca is  famous.  The  road  runs  over  the  plain  for  about 
eight  miles,  and  the  next  station  is  Toluca,  73  kilometres 
from  the  capital.  This  place,  with  perhaps  the  exception 
of  Ameca-meca,  in  the  State  of  Mexico,  is  the  city  of  the 
highest  altitude  in  the  Kepublic,  being  8,653  feet  above 
the  sea-level.  The  Nevado  de  Toluca,  an  extinct  volcano 
several  miles  to  the  south,  is  the  most  prominent  feature 
in  the  landscape  for  many  miles.  This  mountain  is  often 
cloud-capped. 

TOLUCA. 

Population,  11,500. 

Hotels. —  Gran  Sociedad,  Espagnol,  Hidalgo,  and  Bella  Union.  There 
are  also  several  restaurants  and  cafes. 

Baths,  in  the  Calle  de  Victoria. 

Teatro  principal,  behind  the  Hotel  Gran  Sociedad. 

Places  of  Interest. — 1.  Carmen  church  and  monastery.  2.  Church  of 
Vera  Cruz.  3.  Plaza  de  los  Martiros,  where  a  monument  in  white  marble, 
about  twelve  feet  high,  has  been  erected  to  the  great  patriot  Miguel  Hidalgo 
y  Costilla.     4.  Palacio  Alunicipal.     5.  The  Pasco. 

Toluca  is  a  well-built  and  thriving  town.  The  streets 
are  clean  and  well  drained.     The   tourist   may  obtain  a 


206  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

correct  idea  of  the  topography  of  Toluca  and  environs  by 
walking  up  the  hill  on  the  southwestern  side  of  the  city. 
It  is  not  more  than  fifteen  minutes'  walk  from  the  j)rincij)al 
hotels. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  Nevada  de 
Toluca  (15,156  feet  high).  This  mountain  is  always  snow- 
clad,  but  in  winter  it  is  covered  with  snow  for  about  one 
third  of  the  way  down  from  the  summit.  There  is  a  ranch 
on  the  ridge,  just  below  the  timber-line,  where  the  traveler 
can  pass  the  night.  A  very  extensive  view  may  be  obtained 
from  the  top  of  the  volcano.  On  a  clear  day  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  distant,  is  visible  ;  and 
it  is  said  that  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  can  even  be  seen  with  a 
powerful  field-glass.  Baron  von  Humboldt  ascended  the 
jieak  of  Toluca  on  the  29th  of  September,  1803,  and 
measured  the  height  of  the  mountain  by  the  barometer. 
He  states  that  the  highest  point,  the  Pico  del  Fraile,  is 
difficult  of  ascent,  and  the  very  top  is  scarcely  ten  feet 
wide.*  Humboldt  found  the  rock  to  be  a  combination  of 
oligoclase  and  hornblende  (diorite).  Two  entire  days  will 
be  required  to  climb  the  Nevada  de  Toluca — i.  e.,  from  the 
city  of  Toluca  and  hach.  The  traveler  should  take  provis- 
ions, blankets,  guides,  and  horses  sufficient  for  the  journey. 

2.  From  Toluca  to  Makavatio,  150  kilometres,  or  93  miles.    Time,  7  hours. 

Leaving  Toluca,  the  road  continues  due  west  along  the 
broad  valley.  Much  wheat  is  grown  in  the  vicinity.  One 
farmer  sold  seventy-seven  thousand  dollars'  worth  last  year 
(1882).  The  next  station  is  Del  Rio  (97  kilometres).  The 
railway-station  is  in  a  freight-car  on  a  siding. 

The  line  soon  winds  along  the  bank  of  the  Rio  Lerma, 
with  bluffs  of  a  clayey  limestone  on  one  side.  We  pass 
through  the  tunnel  of  Ixtlaliuaca,  and  reach  the  station  of 

*  See  Cosmos,  vol.  v,  p.  376. 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         207 

the  same  name  (111- 50  kilometres).  Here  the  elevation  is 
8,423  feet.  The  town  lies  about  a  mile  north  of  the  track. 
The  traveler  may  see  the  boundary-line  of  the  States  of 
Mexico  and  Miclioacan  near  by.  Stone  monuments  about 
three  feet  high  are  placed  in  the  ground  every  thousand 
yards.  One  of  them  is  very  close  to  the  railroad.  Pres- 
ently the  line  crosses  the  Rio  Lerma  and  continues  through 
a  fertile  country.  Good  pastures  for  cattle  abound  here, 
and  the  tourist  can  see  many  fine  haciendas  from  the  car- 
window.  The  track  has  usually  been  laid  some  distance 
from  the  hamlets  and  villages.  Hogs  are  raised  in  con- 
siderable numbers  on  the  estates  along  the  line  of  the  To- 
hica  and  Maravatio  division  of  the  National  Eailway,  and 
yet  no  one  has  had  the  enterprise  to  put  up  hams  for  do- 
mestic use.  The  natives  seem  to  prefer  to  import  Ameri- 
can hams  at  50  cents  and  those  of  Westphalia  at  62^  cents 
a  pound.  It  is  believed  that  hams  could  be  sent  from 
Toluca  to  the  capital  and  sold  at  a  handsome  profit  for 
20  cents  a  pound.  This  is  only  one  out  of  many  business 
chances  that  await  the  American  or  European  settler  in 
Mexico. 

Flor  de  Maria  (133  "90  kilometres)  is  the  next  station. 
Here  the  conductor  calls  out  in  English,  "Half  an  hour 
for  dinner."  The  dining-room  consists  of  a  freight-car, 
and  the  kitchen  is  in  an  adjoining  car  on  a  siding.  The 
tourist  is  agreeably  surprised  at  finding  an  excellent  dinner 
served  in  such  a  primitive  eating-house.  Six  reales  is  the 
price  charged.  We  soon  come  to  the  station  of  La  Jor- 
dana  (149*90  kilometres).  The  next  station  is  El  Oro 
(164  kilometers),  where  the  elevation  is  8,344  feet.  There 
are  mines  containing  gold  and  silver  on  the  hill-side 
about  four  miles  southwest  of  this  place.  A  New  York 
company  owns  them.  A  forty-stamp  mill  has  been  erected 
at  great  cost,  owing  to  the  machinery  having  been  trans- 
ported, first  over  the  Mexican  Railway  with  its  enormous 


208  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

rates,  and  then  by  wagon-road  to  El  Oro.  The  ore  is 
worked  in  the  same  manner  as  in  California.  The  country 
rock  is  slate.  The  main  shaft  of  the  mines  at  El  Oro  is 
now  full  of  water,  and  steam-pumps  are  about  to  be  used 
to  raise  it. 

Gold-mines  are  found  also  at  Tlalpujahua,  nine  miles 
from  El  Oro  station.  A  stage-coach  runs  to  them.  These 
mines  are  among  the  oldest  in  Mexico,  and  were  worked 
before  the  Conquest.  It  may  be  remarked  that  there  is  a 
great  deal  of  undeveloped  mineral  wealth  in  the  State  of 
Miclioacan.  The  well-known  mining  districts  of  Trojes, 
CJiapatuato,  Ozumatlan,  and  Sinda,  can  be  reached  in  two 
days  on  horseback.  The  ores  of  gold  and  silver  with  a 
quartz  gangue  occur  here.  But,  as  the  tourist  will  have 
diflBculty  in  procuring  horses  and  provisions  at  El  Oro,  the 
journey  to  these  mining  districts  can  be  made  more  easily 
from  Morelia,  the  capital  of  the  State. 

Eeturning  to  the  railroad,  take  the  left-hand  side  of  the 
train  for  the  view  after  leaving  El  Oro.  "We  now  cross  the 
State  line  again,  as  the  track  is  built  partly  in  the  State  of 
Mexico  and  partly  in  Miclioacan.  The  next  station  is  Canon 
(167 "70  kilometres).  Near  by  the  tourist  may  see  the  ruins 
of  a  stone  dam,  where  a  supply  of  water  was  formerly 
stored  for  the  benefit  of  cattle  and  sheep  grazing  in  the 
vicinity.  Soon  the  road-bed  begins  to  descend  rapidly  and 
enters  the  Canon  de  los  Zopilotes,  or  Turkey-Buzzard  Canon. 
The  creek  of  El  Salto  runs  through  the  canon  and  forms  a 
cascade,  which  is  a  grand  sight  in  the  rainy  season.  The 
track  has  been  blasted  out  of  the  solid  basalt  rock,  and  is  a 
skillful  piece  of  engineering.  The  caiion  is  about  a  mile 
long,  and  the  observer  on  looking  down  may  see  a  trail  at 
the  bottom  running  along  the  course  of  the  roaring  tor- 
rent. Trails  are  very  common  all  over  Mexico,  as  horse- 
back-riding has  been  the  principal  means  of  communica- 
tion up  to  the  present  day.     Nearly  every  cafion,  valley. 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         209 

and  plain  can  be  traversed  by  a  bridle-path.  The  raih-oad 
soon  makes  a  sharp  turn,  and  leaves  the  Canon  de  los  Zopi- 
lotes.  The  grade  is  still  very  heavy.  A  fine  view  of  the 
broad  and  fertile  valley  below  presents  itself  to  the  eye,  and 
the  observer  will  soon  notice  a  cliff  about  two  hundred  feet 
high,  on  the  right-hand  side  of  tlie  track,  called  the  Salto 
de  Medina.  The  cliff  was  so  named  after  Medina,  the 
chief  of  a  noted  band  of  brigands.  He  liad  been  pursued 
to  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  and,  finding  escape  impossible, 
blinded  his  mule  with  a  zarape,  and,  spurring  his  animal. 
Jumped  off  the  cliff  to  prevent  the  officers  of  the  law  from 
capturing  him.  The  line  now  runs  along  the  side  of  tlie 
broad  valley,  making  several  long  curves,  and  reaches  the 
station  of  Solis  (176-50  kilometres).  The  country  is  cov- 
ered with  basaltic  rock,  and  tanks  for  watering  live-stock 
are  seen  in  places.  Tepetongo  is  the  next  station  (185*70 
kilometres),  and  has  an  elevation  of  7,652  feet.  The  region 
is  overgrown  with  nopal-trees,  and  the  bush  known  as  hui- 
sachi,  resembling  the  mesquite.  After  passing  the  station 
of  Pomoca  (205*50  kilometres),  we  reach  Maravatio  (223*20 
kilometres).  The  elevation  of  this  town  is  6,612  feet,  and 
the  population  is  about  10,000.  (Hotel,  Diligencias.)  The 
town  lies  in  a  broad,  grassy  plain,  surrounded  by  ridges  of 
mountains.  There  is  nothing  of  special  interest  to  the 
traveler  here.  Maravatio  is  eleven  hours'  journey  from 
the  City  of  Mexico.  Another  and  shorter  route  from  the 
capital  to  this  town  has  been  surveyed — i.  e.,  the  continu- 
ation of  the  division  of  El  Salto,  the  line  running  north- 
ward from  the  capital,  via  Tlalnepantla,  Cuautitlan,  and 
Huehuetoca,  to  the  station  of  El  Salto,  67*29  kilometres 
from  the  capital.  On  November  1,  1883,  only  four  kilo- 
metres of  this  line  were  constructed  beyond  El  Salto.  The 
Mexican  Central  Eailway  also  runs  to  El  Salto,  and  the 
country  adjoining  the  latter  road  will  be  described  in  Sec- 
tion V. 


210  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

3.  From  Maravatio  to  Morklia,  155  kilometres,  or  96  miles. 

The  track  from  Maravatio  to  Acamharo  was  finished  in 
February,  1883.  The  distance  is  63  kilometres.  The  line 
of  the  railway  is  several  miles  to  the  eastward  of  the  old 
diligence-road.  The  stations  are,  Zirizicuaro  (23*34  kilo- 
metres), Taranddcuao  (31*34  kilometres), /S'aw  Jose  (41*34 
kilometres),  and  Acamharo  (63  kilometres).  The  region 
traversed  by  the  route  is  not  much  cultivated,  and  there 
are  only  three  hamlets  along  the  line.  Basaltic  rock  cov- 
ers the  country,  and  there  is  but  little  vegetation  besides 
the  nopal,  Jiuisachi,  mesquite,  and  piru  trees.  Much  wheat 
and  Indian  corn  could  be  produced  here,  but  at  present 
very  little  is  grown.  The  train  reaches  Acamharo  in  about 
three  hours. 

ACAMBAEO. 

Elevation,  6,084  feet  at  the  railroad-junction ;  population,  about  8,000. 
Hotel. — JVacional,  one  block  from  the  plaza. 

The  town  lies  in  a  broad  valley,  and  is  destined  to 
increase  in  population  as  soon  as  the  two  branches  of  the 
Mexican  National  Eailway  are  finished.  One  branch  ex- 
tends northward  to  Celaya,  via  Salvatierra,  a  distance  of 
421-  miles,  and  thence  via  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Monterey 
to  the  frontier ;  the  other  runs  to  Morelia,  57  miles  dis- 
tant, and  thence  to  Pdtzcuaro  and  Maiizanillo  on  the  Pa- 
cific. The  branch  to  Celaya  was  completed  in  July,  1883. 
If  the  tourist  does  not  wish  to  travel  farther  westward,  he 
can  take  the  train  to  Celaya,  which  is  on  the  line  of  the 
Mexican  Central  Eailway,  and  return  to  the  capital  by 
the  latter  road,  thus  making  a  round  trip  from  Mexico 
that  will  give  him  an  excellent  idea  of  the  agricultural 
and  mineral  resources  of  the  region  traversed  by  the  two 
principal  American  trunk  lines.  The  division  of  the 
National  Eailway  to  Morelia  was  opened  on  September  12, 
1883. 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         211 

Leaving  Acambaro,  the  road  trends  over  the  j^lain  to 
the  south,  and  then  goes  south  westward  for  several  miles, 
when  the  picturesque  Lake  of  Cuitzeo  is  seen.  The  level 
of  this  lake  is  6,021  feet,  or  03  feet  lower  than  Acambaro. 
Lake  Cuitzeo  is  about  18  miles  long,  and  affords  good  fishing. 
There  are  several  islets  in  the  lake,  and  it  is  surrounded  by 
low  hills.  The  stations  are  Summit  Sidiiig  (14  kilometres), 
Andocutin  (31 '50  kilometres),  Huingo  (38*50  kilometres), 
Querendaro  (49  kilometres),  Quirio  (63  kilometres),  Gharo 
(74  kilometres),  La  Goleta  (76  kilometres),  Atajpaneo  (80 
kilometres),  and  Morelia  (92  kilometres). 

MOEELIA. 

Population,  about  20,400.     Elevation,  6,202  feet. 

Hotels. — Soledad  and  Diligencias. 

Baths. — Del  Recreo,  and  in  the  Hotel  Soledad. 

The  city  lies  in  a  basin.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  State 
of  Michoacan,  is  well  built,  and  has  clean  streets.  There 
is  not  much  wealth  in  Morelia,  but  a  large  number  of  the 
inhabitants  are  well-to-do.  At  the  present  time  a  few  build- 
ings are  in  course  of  erection,  especially  the  College  of  San 
Jose,  with  an  ornamental  facade.  Many  of  the  houses  are 
built  of  a  pinkish  trachyte,  which  is  brought  from  a  quarry 
about  a  mile  from  the  city.  This  stone,  however,  does  not 
weather  well,  and,  after  exposure  to  the  atmosphere  for  a 
few  years,  the  buildings  made  of  it  appear  to  be  quite  old. 
Most  of  the  dwelling-houses  are  of  one  story,  while,  on  the 
main  street  and  near  the  plaza,  many  of  the  shops  are  in 
buildings  having  two  and  sonietimes  three  stories. 

Places  of  Interest. — 1,  The  Cathedral  (well  worth  seeing).  2.  The 
Palace.  3.  The  Paseo.  4.  Several  of  the  churches  may  be  visited  to  ad- 
vantage, if  the  tourist  is  not  pressed  for  time. 

The  Cathedral  occupies  an  entire  block,  and  is  built  in 
the  Spanish  renaissance  style.    The  wood-work  of  the  choir 


212  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

(euro)  is  finely  carved.  Formerly  the  passage-way  from  the 
choir  to  the  high  altar  was  inclosed  with  a  silver  railing, 
but  during  the  revolution  the  Liberals  entered  the  edifice 
and  confiscated  the  precious  metal.  The  silver  doors  on  the 
tabernacles  of  the  side  chapels  still  remain.  The  fonts  are  of 
Mexican  onyx,  brought  from  Puehla,  three  hundred  miles 
distant.  It  is  said  that  the  Cathedral  received  upward  of 
$4,000,000  from  the  owners  of  mines  in  the  neighborhood 
(at  Ozu?natlan),  between  the  years  1758  and  1858.  The 
inhabitants  of  Morelia  worship  the  outside  as  well  as  the 
inside  of  the  Cathedral,  and  it  is  customary  for  men  to  re- 
move their  hats  while  passing  it.  The  stranger  renders 
himself  liable  to  insult  if  he  fails  to  observe  this  usage.  A 
Mexican  peasant  will  often  kneel  in  passing  this  holy  of 
holies.  In  Morelia,  as  in  some  other  cities,  the  people  gen- 
erally bow  to  the  priest,  or  padre,  whether  they  know  him 
or  not.  When  the  priest  wishes  to  administer  the  last  rites 
of  the  Church  to  a  person  in  articulo  mortis,  he  rejaairs  to 
the  house  in  a  close  carriage,  drawn  by  two  white  mules.  It 
is  asual  to  kneel  in  the  streets  while  this  carriage  is  passing, 
and  the  tourist  will  give  great  offense  to  the  by-standers  if 
he  does  not  conform  to  this  practice.  Before  the  overthrow 
of  the  clerical  party,  the  host  was  borne  through  the  streets 
by  a  sort  of  procession,  arranged  as  follows :  First,  a  man 
with  a  bell ;  then  the  coach  containing  the  sacrament,  or  es- 
tiifa;  then  six  attendants  on  each  side  of  it,  carrying  large 
lanterns  or  torches  ;  and  three  soldiers  in  the  rear. 

Protestants  have  often  been  mobbed  or  arrested,  and  in  a 
few  cases  killed,  for  refusing  to  kneel  on  the  approach  of  the 
host.  The  late  Bishop  Haven  relates  that,  in  the  year  1824, 
in  the  City  of  Mexico,  an  American  shoemaker  was  at  work 
on  his  bench,  near  the  doorway,  on  the  first  floor  of  a  house. 
Presently  the  bell  announced  the  coming  of  the  priest  bear- 
ing the  host.  A  Mexican  stepped  into  this  doorway,  and, 
kneeling  on  the  floor,  turned  to  see  if  the  shoemaker  was 


TEE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         213 

following  his  example.  The  cobblei'  had  dropped  his  tools, 
and  was  kneeling  on  the  to]3  of  his  iench,  when  the  zealous 
Catholic  requested  that  he  should  get  down  and  kneel  on 
the  floor.  The  American  refused  to  do  so,  whereupon  the 
Mexican  drew  his  knife  and  inflicted  a  mortal  wound  on 
him.  The  news  sj)read  rapidly  through  the  city,  and  it 
was  only  at  the  risk  of  the  life  of  an  American  clergyman 
living  in  the  capital  that  the  murdered  man  received  a 
Christian  burial.  Travelers  should  remember  that  Morelia 
has  always  been  a  stronghold  of  the  priesthood,  and  that, 
although  the  power  of  the  Church  is  gone  in  most  of  the 
States,  it  still  holds  its  own  in  Miclioacan. 

The  Palace  next  demands  our  attention.  It  is  a  well- 
built  and  commodious  edifice  of  two  stories,  and  contains 
the  offices  of  the  State  Government  and  the  custom-house. 
The  governmental  printing-office  is  also  in  the  Palace.  A 
large  room  on  the  second  story  contains  the  State  Library, 
which  is  composed  of  many  rare  and  old  volumes,  taken 
from  the  convents  and  monasteries  during  revolutions. 
Some  of  the  books  are  written  on  the  canon  law  in  Latin, 
and  bound  in  the  most  costly  style.  The  front  part  of 
the  second  story  of  this  building  consists  of  the  Gov- 
ernor's office,  and  the  reception-room,  or  Sala  de  Reunion. 
The  latter  apartment  is  furnished  with  ornamental  black- 
walnut  sofas  and  chairs,  covered  with  silk,  and  which  were 
made  in  Morelia. 

In  the  Hall  of  Congress,  or  Sala  del  Congreso,  on  the 
first  floor  of  the  Palace,  there  is  a  statue  of  Hidalgo,  the 
Mexican  Washington,  and  a  portrait  of  the  liberator, 
Ocampo,  speaking  in  the  national  palace  at  the  capital. 
Ocampo  was  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  anti-clerical  party, 
and  rendered  such  gallant  service  to  the  State  of  Miclioacan 
during  the  revolution  that  the  inhabitants  named  the  State 
after  him,  so  that  its  full  name  is  Miclioacan  de  Ocampo. 

After  the  tourist  has  visited  the  principal  buildings,  a 


214:  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

walk  to  the  Paseo  will  be  found  interesting.  Large  ash- 
trees  (fresnos)  grow  here,  and  the  gardens  are  well  laid  out 
and  planted  with  flowers.  We  may  add  that  there  are  fine 
cedars  and  cypress-trees  in  the  yard  of  the  Carmen  Church, 
on  the  north  side  of  the  city. 

The  traveler  may  rest  a  few  days  in  Moi^elia  to  advan- 
tage. The  time  may  be  passed  in  visiting  the  other  build- 
ings not  already  mentioned — such  as  the  municipal  palace  ; 
the  cemetery,  or  campo  santo,  inclosed  with  high  adoie 
walls  ;  the  smaller  churches  and  vacant  convents  ;  the  cot- 
ton-factory ;  or  some  of  the  colleges  and  schools. 

The  climate  of  Morelia  is  salubrious.  The  water  is, 
however,  muddy,  and  must  be  passed  through  large  stone 
filters  before  it  can  be  used. 

Morelia  was  founded  on  the  23d  of  April,  1541,  by 
provision  of  the  viceroy,  Antonio  de  Mendoza.  During 
the  Spanish  domination  it  received  the  name  of  Vallado- 
lid,  in  honor  of  the  Viceroy  Mendoza,  whose  birthplace  in 
Spain  bore  that  name.  In  1838  the  Legislature  of  Micho- 
acan  enacted  that  the  city  should  be  called  Morelia,  in 
memory  of  Jose  Maria  Morelos,  a  hero  of  the  War  of  Inde- 
pendence, who  was  born  in  this  place. 

Many  excursions  can  be  made  from  Morelia,  especially 
to  the  mining  districts  lying  to  the  east  and  southeast. 
Chajmtuato  is  sixty  miles  by  trail.  Gold  is  found  in  a  fis- 
sure-vein, associated  with  galena,  pyrites,  and  antimonial 
ores.  The  country  rock  is  slate.  Ozumatlaii  is  thirty 
miles  distant.  Here  gold  occurs  in  trachyte.  Sinda  lies 
at  about  the  same  distance  from  Morelia,  and  its  miner- 
als are  similar  to  those  just  mentioned.  In  the  autumn 
of  1880  a  company  was  formed  in  New  York  to  develop 
these  mining  regions.  It  was  known  as  the  Michoacan 
Syndicate.  Mining  engineers  were  sent  to  Mexico  from 
New  York,  and  a  favorable  report  was  published,  from 
which  the  above  particulars  are  taken.     Labor  is  abundant 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         215 

here,  at  prices  ranging  from  three  to  four  reales  a  day.  It 
is  believed  that  the  completion  of  the  railroad  to  Moi'elia 
will  be  of  great  benefit  to  these  mines,  which  are  now 
owned  largely  by  residents  of  this  city,  who  have  not 
sufficient  capital  to  work  them,  and  are  willing  to  sell 
at  a  fair  valuation.  It  may  be  remarked  that  Miclioacan 
still  contains  an  immense  amount  of  undeveloped  mineral 
wealth.  Besides  gold  and  silver,  copper  and  iron  are  abun- 
dant. 

An  excursion  may  also  be  taken  to  Zintzuntzan,  about 
twenty  miles  distant.  This  town  was  the  seat  of  the  court 
of  the  ancient  kings  of  Michoacan  ;  it  had  a  population  of 
40,000.  To-day  its  edifices  are  destroyed,  its  streets  de- 
serted, and  its  few  inhabitants  are  extremely  ignorant.  In 
the  environs  many  mounds  exist  that  are  said  to  conceal 
the  ancient  palaces  of  the  kings  of  Miclioacan.  There  are 
also  many  buildings  in  which  precious  antiquities  would  be 
found  if  these  hills  should  be  excavated  and  examined.  A 
great  deal  of  pottery  is  now  made  here. 

The  cities  of  Zamora,  La  Barca,  and  La  Piedad,  and 
the  brown-coal  deposits  of  Xiquilpan,  may  be  reached  from 
Morelia  by  horse-roads.  In  closing  the  chapter  on  Morelia, 
it  may  be  said  that,  at  present,  but  two  foreign  corporations 
are  carrying  on  mining  and  smelting  operations  in  the 
vicinity — one  English  and  one  American.  The  State  Gov- 
ernment is  trying  to  increase  the  cultivation  of  the  silk- 
worm and  of  cotton,  and  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  add  that 
Michoacan  affords  excellent  opportunities  for  investment 
to  foreigners  having  some  capital. 

4.  From  Morelia  to  Patzcuaro,  and  thence  to  Manzanillo. 

There  are  two  lines  of  diligences  from  Morelia  to  Patz- 
cuaro, running  three  times  a  week.  The  fare  is  $2  for  each 
passenger.  The  distance  is  forty  miles,  and  the  trip  re- 
quires eight  hours.     The  scenery  along  the  route  is  pictur- 


216  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

esque  ;  but,  unfortunately,  the  road  is  one  of  the  very 
roughest  in  Mexico.  A  j)art  of  it  is  paved  with  basaltic 
bowlders,  on  account  of  the  frequent  rains  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. Leaving  Morelia,  the  diligence  travels  up-hill  for 
about  ten  miles,  until  the  summit  of  a  low  divide  is  reached. 
Then  the  road  descends  to  a  small  village,  where  the  mules 
are  changed.  Proceeding  farther,  the  tourist  enters  a  val- 
ley, with  lofty  and  densely  timbered  ridges,  or  sierras,  on 
either  side.  A  few  extinct  volcanoes  are  seen,  and  the  pre- 
vailing rock  is  blue  amygdaloidal  basalt.  The  worst  part 
of  the  road  has  now  been  passed,  and  soon  the  stage-coach 
stops,  to  change  animals  for  the  last  time.  There  is  very 
little  vegetation  along  this  route.  Traveling  over  an  as- 
cending grade  for  several  miles,  the  observer  obtains  a  view 
of  the  eastern  end  of  the  beautiful  Lake  of  Pdtzcuaro.  In 
half  an  hour  the  driver  halts  in  front  of  the  Hotel  Dili- 
gencias. 

PATZCUAEO. 

Population,  about  8,000. 

Elevation,  6,717  feet,  according  to  the  surveys  of  the 
Mexican  National  Eailway  engineers.  "We  may  state  that 
the  line  of  this  railroad  has  been  graded  to  within  a  few 
rods  of  the  town  ;  but  the  officers  of  the  company  have  as 
yet  made  no  announcement  of  the  time  when  this  branch 
of  the  road  will  be  completed.  Alexander  von  Humboldt 
visited  this  region  m  1803,  and  computed  the  elevation  of 
this  town  to  be  about  500  feet  higher  than  that  above  given, 
according  to  barometric  measurement.  The  word  "  Patz- 
cuaro"  means  a.  place  of  pleasure  in  the  Indian  language. 
The  houses  are  mostly  of  one  story.  The  streets  are  nar- 
row and  winding,  but  the  plazas  are  ample,  and  often  filled 
with  fruit-venders.  This  city  was  formerly  a  resort  of  the 
ancient  kings  of  Michoacan,  and  after  the  Conquest  it  be- 
came the  capital  of  the  province. 

There  is  a  large  Indian  population  here,  who  speak  the 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         217 

Tarasc  dialect,  especially  on  the  lake,  which  is  two  and  a 
half  miles  from  the  town. 

The  picturesque  Lake  of  Pdtzcuaro  is  about  thirty  miles 
in  circumference.  Its  shape  is  irregular,  the  greatest  length 
being  about  thirteen  miles  from  northeast  to  southwest. 
There  are  five  small  islands  in  the  lake,  bearing  the  names  of 
Xanicho,  Pacanda,  Xaracuaro,  Yuguan,  and  Tecuen.  The 
first  one  is  inhabited.  The  view  from  the  hills  near  the 
town,  of  the  lake  surrounded  by  densely  timbered  mount- 
ains, and  with  the  surface  dotted  by  islets,  and  the  white 
houses  on  the  side  of  Xanicho,  is  beautiful  beyond  descrip- 
tion. It  reminds  the  traveler  of  the  famous  Lago  Mag- 
giore.  Among  other  writers  who  have  remarked  upon  the 
beauty  of  the  landscape  are  Madame  Calderon  de  la  Barca 
and  Baron  von  Humboldt.  A  recent  English  author  of  a 
book  on  Mexico  states,  that  the  former  has  jDublished  to  the 
world  the  most  entertaining  work  ever  written  on  the  land 
of  the  Aztecs. 

The  Indians  living  on  the  Lake  of  Pdtzcuaro  very  closely 
resemble  the  Pueblos  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona.  The 
tourist  can  visit  the  islands  in  one  of  their  ''  dug-out  "  pine 
canoes  (canoas).  Paddles  with  circular  blades  are  used  in 
the  canoes  by  both  women  and  men. 

Perhaps  no  spot  in  the  country  deserves  the  name  of 
"primitive  Mexico"  better  than  Lake  Pdtzcuaro. 

Several  excursions  may  be  made  from  Pdtzcuaro.     The 

most  convenient  one  is  to  XJruapan,  forty-seven  miles  by 

trail  to  the  southwest.     There  are  two  small  hotels  and 

a  cotton-factory  in  Uruapan.     The  cotton  is  of  excellent 

quality,  and  is  brought  from  the  west  {Acapuico)  coast  by 

pack-mules.     Much  pottery  is  made  here,  and  the  town 

lies  in  the  midst  of  a  coffee  and  sugar  growing  district. 

The  coffee  of  Miclioacan  is  generally  considered  to  be  the 

best  in  Mexico,  with  the  single  exception  of  that  from  Co- 

lima.     An  arroha  of  coffee  (25  pounds)  costs  13  at  Urua- 
10 


218  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TBAVEL. 

pan,  and  at  Pdtzcuaro  it  is  worth  30  reales.  These  figures 
will  give  the  traveler  an  idea  of  the  great  expense  of  trans- 
portation by  mule-back  ;  i.  e. ,  the  price  for  carrying  coffee 
in  sacks  forty-seven  miles  is  at  the  rate  of  three  cents  a 
pound  !    There  is  a  cascade  near  the  town  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Besides  sugar-cane  and  coffee,  Peruvian  bark  (quina) 
and  many  medicinal  plants,  as  well  as  an  infinite  variety 
of  fruits,  are  grown  in  the  environs  of  U7ncapan.  Twenty 
thousand  barrels  of  native  rum  {aguardiente)  are  made  an- 
nually in  the  district  of  Uruapan.  The  word  "Uruapan" 
comes  from  Urani,  which  means  in  the  Tarasc  language  "a 
chocolate-cup  "  (j'icara),  because  the  Indians  in  this  region 
devote  themselves  to  the  manufacture  and  painting  of  these 
objects,  in  which  industry  they  have  thus  far  excelled. 

The  line  of  railroad  from  Pdtzcuaro  via  Uruapan  to 
CoUma  has  been  surveyed,  but  it  will  doubtless  be  many 
years  before  it  is  completed. 

The  tourist  can  visit  Tancitaro,  40  miles  from  Urua- 
pan, and,  if  he  wishes,  travel  all  the  way  to  the  Pacific 
coast.  It  will  be  advisable  to  purchase  a  horse  if  the  trav- 
eler intends  going  beyond  Uruapan.  A  good  animal  can 
be  bought  for  about  140,  and  one  able  to  accomplish  the 
trip  to  Colima  could  be  had  for  $25.  The  climate  of  Tan- 
citaro is  cool,  the  town  being  situated  at  the  base  of  a  peak 
of  the  same  name,  having  an  altitude  of  11,037  feet.  There 
are  many  gardens  of  pears,  peaches,  and  apples  in  the  vicin- 
ity. A  horse-road  leads  from  Tancitaro  to  Colima,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  100  miles.  The  latter  place  is  celebrated 
for  producing  the  finest  cofPec  in  the  Republic.  It  is  pro- 
nounced to  be  equal  to  the  best  Mocha.  The  berry  is  of 
small  size.  The  State  of  Colima  yields  annually  about 
1,980,000  pounds  of  coffee,  valued  at  $225,000.  Some  of 
it  is  exported  to  Germany.  Cotton,  rice,  sugar-cane,  and 
indigo  are  also  cultivated  in  this  State. 

The  city  of  Colima,  situated  on  the  river  of  the  same 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY. 


219 


name,  has  a  population  of  32,000  souls,  which  is  equal  to  half 
the  number  of  inhabitants  of  the  entire  State.  There  are 
some  French,  German,  and  English  settlers.  The  volcano 
of  Colima,  11,140  feet  high,  lies  near  the  city.  It  is  snow- 
clad  in  winter,  but  the  summer  sun  melts  the  white  cover- 
ing. This  peak  is  conspicuously  seen  far  out  to  sea,  being 
only  25  miles  from  the  coast.  A  wagon-road  goes  from 
Colima  to  Manzanillo,  about  70  miles  distant.     The  latter 


The  City  of  Colima. 

town  is  the  terminus  of  the  western  branch  of  the  Mexican 
National  Eailway.  The  distance  from  the  national  capital 
is  G15  miles.  The  Pacific  Mail  steamers  touch  at  Manza- 
nillo once  a  month.  Manzanillo  is  1,685  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  Cal.,  and  1,742  miles  from  Panama. 

It  may  be  remarked  that  the  Hon.  William  H.  Seward 
landed  at  Manzanillo  in  18G9,  and  traveled  into  the  interior 
via  Colima  and  Guadalajara.  He  received  a  most  enthu- 
siastic reception. 


220  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

The  usual  plan  of  building  railways  in  Mexico,  i.  e., 
to  begin  at  both  ends,  and  work  toward  an  intermediate 
point,  has  been  adopted  by  the  Mexican  National  Railway 
Company,  and  on  October  1,  1883,  about  thirty  miles  of 
track  had  been  laid  from  Maiizanillo  to  Golima.  The  dis- 
tance between  the  two  towns  via  Armeria  is  60  miles  hy 
rail. 

Leaving  Colima,  the  Mexican  National  line  makes  a 
great  bend  to  the  northeast,  curves  around  the  northern 
side  of  LaTce  Chapala,  and  then  runs  southeasterly  to  More- 
lia  via  Zamora. 

The  railroad  from  Manzanillo  to  Morelia  will  be  about 
380  miles  long.     (See  chapter  on  railways  in  Part  First.) 

The  climate  of  Manzanillo  is  unhealthy  for  Europeans, 
and  the  tourist  is  advised  not  to  linger  long  in  the  vicinity. 

5.  From  Patzcuaro  via  Ario  to  Jorullo  ;  *  distance,  65  miles  by  horse-road. 

This  is  a  rough  trip,  owing  to  the  absence  of  wagon- 
roads  and  hotels  along  the  route.  It  has  charms,  however, 
especially  to  the  geologist  and  lover  of  natural  scenery ;  and 
the  traveler  will  be  amply  repaid  for  the  four  or  five  days 
of  comparative  hardship  necessary  for  the  journey. 

Tourists  should  hire  saddle-horses  in  Patzcuaro.  If  there 
are  two  or  three  in  the  party,  it  will  be  expedient  to  take  a 
man-servant  or  mozo.  Three  horses  and  a  mozo  can  be  ob- 
tained at  the  rate  of  14  daily,  and  the  price  of  stabling. 
The  cost  of  feeding  each  horse  will  be  about  one  real  a 
day.  If  the  traveler  wishes  to  go  alone,  and  is  able  to  talk 
in  Spanish,  a  mozo  will  be  unnecessary,  although  useful. 

Leaving  the  quaint  town  of  Patzcuaro,  the  road  as- 
cends for  about  two  miles,  when  a  densely- wooded  plateau 
is  reached.  This  route,  formerly  practicable  for  wagons, 
is  well  paved  with  stone  on  the  heavy  grades,  and  passes 

*  Pronounced  hoar-rool-yo. 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL   RAILWAY. 


221 


through  a  region  where  considerable  wheat,  maize,  and  bar- 
ley are  cultivated.  On  reaching  the  top  of  the  hill,  the 
observer  may  obtain  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Lake  of  Pdtz- 
cuaro,  with  the  vast  rolling  country  beyond.  The  hamlet 
of  Santa  Clara  is  soon  reached.  There  are  coi^per-smelt- 
ing  works  here,  charcoal  being  used  for  fuel.  The  ore  is 
brought  in  leathern  sacks  on  mule-back  from  Churumuco 


Manzanillo  Bay. 

and  Inguaran,  about  65  miles  distant.  It  is  worth  from 
$10  to  120  per  carga  (300  pounds).  Proceeding  farther, 
the  traveler  will  traverse  a  well-timbered  district.  Stately 
ash-trees  line  the  streets  of  one  of  the  villages,  and  the  for- 
ests in  the  neighborhood  contain  fine  spruces  and  pines. 
A  French  settler  is  about  to  erect  a  steam  saw-mill  here. 
A  great  deal  of  freight  is  carried  along  this  route.     One 


222  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

meets  many  pack-trains  of  mules  coming  chiefly  from 
Acapulco,  which  is  290  miles  from  Pdtzcuaro.  A  train  is 
usually  composed  of  forty  mules  with  five  men  who  act  as 
packers,  or  cargadores.  A  day's  Journey  is  sixteen  miles. 
Mules  are  worth  from  $35  to  140  in  this  part  of  Mexico, 
and  an  ajmrejo,  or  leathern  pack-saddle,  costs  $5. 

The  men  who  accompany  the  pack-trains  usually  ride 
horses,  and  are  armed  with  the  largest  size  of  revolvers. 
Most  of  the  freight  goes  northward.  It  consists  largely  of 
the  cotton  that  grows  in  the  State  of  Guerrero,  and  which 
is  put  up  in  bales  of  about  150  pounds  each.  A  good  mule 
will  carry  two  bales  all  day. 

Kegs  of  brandy,  boxes  of  wine,  small  wares,  and,  of 
course,  provisions  and  cooking  utensils  for  the  packers,  are 
also  carried  by  the  mule-trains.  On  the  return  trip  toward 
the  Pacific  coast,  many  of  the  animals  go  without  a  load, 
so  that  the  tourist  can  secure  transportation  for  himself 
and  baggage  if  desirous  of  going  to  Acapulco. 

As  the  traveler  approaches  Ario,  a  beautiful  view  is 
presented  from  a  point  about  two  miles  from  the  town. 
The  "Coast  Range,"  or  the  southern  part  of  the  Sierra 
Madre,  is  visible,  together  with  the  broad  plain  at  the  base, 
the  surface  of  which  is  dotted  with  numerous  hillocks  or 
cerrillos.  The  undulating  contour  of  the  table-land,  which 
has  just  been  crossed,  can  be  traced  for  miles.  The  most 
prominent  object  in  the  landscape,  however,  is  the  lofty 
mountain  to  the  southward,  known  as  ""La  Estancia  de  los 
Padres,"  or  the  fathers'  mansion.  This  picturesque  hill  is 
formed  of  two  dome-shaped  masses  of  rock  rising  from  a 
common  base.  The  slopes  are  very  steep,  and  the  summit 
appears  to  be  inaccessible  from  the  northern  side.  Hum- 
boldt sketched  this  mountain  while  in  Miclioacan,  and  a 
picture  of  it  may  be  found  in  his  collection  of  views  of 
Mexico.  The  observer  can  also  see  substantially  the  same 
landscape  from  the  Alameda,  just  outside  of  Ario,  and 


TEE  MEXICAN  NATIOFAL  RAILWAY. 


223 


about  fifteen  minutes'  walk  from  the  plaza.  It  is  best  to 
go  to  the  Alameda  in  the  afternoon,  Just  as  the  sun  sinks 
behind  the  lofty  Sierra  Madre.  The  plain  with  its  wavy- 
surface  appears  like  au  inland  sea,  while  the  scattered  hil- 
locks resemble  islets. 

The  road  now  enters  Ario.     The  population  amounts 
to  3,000,  and  the  altitude  is  6,358  feet,  according  to  Hum- 


A  Pack-train. 


boldt,  or  866  feet  lower  than  Pdtzcuaro,  which  is  31  miles 
distant.  There  are  no  hotels,  but  the  town  can  boast  of 
four  mesones,  that  furnish  accommodation  for  travelers  and 
cattle  or  sheep. 

The  Meson  de  Ocampo  is  the  best,  although  to  assure  a 
good  night's  rest  the  tourist  should  sprinkle  flea-powder 


224  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

over  the  sheets  of  his  bed.  The  principal  restaurant  is 
the  Fonda  de  la  Bella  Union,  about  half  a  block  east  of  the 
jjlaza.  The  inhabitants  of  the  town  are  very  polite  to 
strangers.  Travelers  should,  if  possible,  procure  letters  of 
recommendation  to  residents  in  the  neighboring  villages 
which  they  intend  to  visit.  The  prefect  of  police  will 
send  an  escort  of  soldiers  to  Jorullo,  or  any  other  place  in 
his  district,  if  asked.  The  expense  of  the  escort  will  be 
nothing,  but  a  small  gratuity  should  be  given  to  the  ser- 
geant in  command.  The  environs  of  Ario  are  very  fertile, 
and  many  excellent  farms  that  produce  rice,  sugar-cane, 
pepper,  fruit,  etc.,  may  be  easily  visited.  Fine  horses  and 
cattle  are  also  reared.  The  climate  of  Aria  is  temperate 
and  very  healthful.  The  town  is,  however,  a  sort  of 
"jumping-off"  place.  The  land  on  the  south  and  south- 
west of  Ario  descends  rapidly,  and  a  few  hours'  journey 
brings  one  into  the  "hot  country." 

A  Mexican  writer  has  named  it  "the  mouth  of  the 
tierra  caUente.''^  The  inhabitants  feel  the  want  of  a  wagon- 
road  that  would  facilitate  transportation  of  the  valuable 
staple  products  to  the  State  of  Guerrero  or  to  some  of  the 
ports  on  the  Pacific. 

Excursions  may  be  taken  to  Tacamharo,  20  miles  to  the 
eastward,  or  to  Uruapan  on  the  west.  The  former  town 
produces  much  sugar  and  rum.  The  latter  place  has  been 
described  on  page  217. 

Leaving  Ario,  the  road  leads  to  La  Playa,  at  the  base 
of  the  famous  volcano  of  Jorullo,  about  24  miles  distant. 
We  notice  several  haciendas,  and  some  groves  of  pine  and 
oak  along  the  route.  The  country  is  gently  rolling  for  sev- 
eral leagues.  After  traversing  a  forest,  the  path  becomes 
narrow  and  uneven.  Suddenly  it  descends  rapidly  over 
rocky  ground  to  a  small  hacienda. 

The  road  is  paved  with  cobble-stones  for  some  dis- 
tance, and  the  hamlet  of  Tejamanil  is  soon  reached.     The 


TEE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         225 

tourist  is  now  in  the  tierra  caliente.  The  houses  in  the 
village  are  made  of  cane-stalks  and  thatched  chiefly  with 
palm-leaves  ;  but  the  principal  building  is  of  two  stories, 
and  built  of  adobe,  with  a  roof  of  red  tiles.  There  is  a 
store  in  the  latter,  and  a  fonclita  adjoining.  The  accom- 
modations here  are  primitive,  but  it  is  the  best  place  for 
the  traveler  to  stop  at,  unless  he  has  letters  to  the  govern- 
mental inspector  of  police,  who  lives  at  La  Playa,  three 
miles  farther  on. 

There  are  fields  of  sugar-cane  near  by.  Bananas  and 
the  indigo-plant  also  grow  here.  The  main  occupation  of 
the  natives  is  to  collect  palm-leaves  from  the  adjoining 
liacienda,  and  cut  them  up  in  strips,  taking  the  thin  fibers 
for  brooms,  brushes,  etc.  The  long  strips  of  palm  are 
folded  over  and  packed  together  with  tight  cords.  They 
are  made  into  bundles  about  five  feet  long  and  a  foot 
and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  carried  to  Ario  on  the  backs 
of  men  and  donkeys.  It  should  be  said  that  there  are 
many  porters  in  this  section  of  the  country.  They  trans- 
port mostly  pottery  and  dressed  palm-leaves,  and  travel 
about  twenty  miles  daily  with  a  load  in  this  warm  climate. 
The  author  saw  a  porter  without  a  load  walk  thirty-one 
miles  in  seven  and  a  half  hours.  He  kept  up  with  the 
writer's  horse  for  the  greater  part  of  the  distance.  There 
is  a  native  sugar-mill  near  Tejamanil,  where  the  cane  is  put 
in  a  sort  of  hopper,  and  then  passed  through  wooden  roll- 
ers. The  power  is  furnished  by  a  yoke  of  oxen  attached 
to  a  long  shaft  as  in  a  horse-whim. 

The  road  descends  all  the  way  to  the  hamlet  of  Puerta 
de  la  Playa,  containing  about  a  dozen  huts,  besides  the 
house  and  store  of  the  insijector  of  police,  Don  Francisco 
de  Vega.  Indigo  {afiil)  grows  in  the  river-bottom  behind 
SeDor  Vega's  residence.  It  is  a  wild  bush  about  four  feet 
high,  and  has  a  thin  bark.  The  leaf  resembles  a  fern. 
The  Indians  prepare  it  for  the  market  by  pounding  the 


226  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

seeds  with  a  huge  woodeu  hammer  and  extracting  the  juice. 
The  climate  of  La  Playa  is  dry  and  yery  hot.  The  ther- 
mometer in  the  winter  season  readies  90°  Fahr.  at  midday. 
It  is  much  warmer  in  summer.  The  soil  consists  of  dark 
volcanic  sand,  and  it  is  called  mal  2Mis — i.  e.,  bad  country. 
The  region  abounds  with  dangerous  insects,  such  as  scor- 
pions, spiders,  etc,  A  few  rattlesnakes  are  found  here. 
The  traveler  is  advised  to  shake  out  his  boots  in  the  morn- 
ing, as  insects  and  reptiles  are  apt  to  crawl  into  them  dur- 
ing the  night.  Should  he  sleep  in  a  Mexican  hut,  it  will 
be  expedient  to  keep  on  all  clothing  (including  boots),  on 
account  of  the  vermin. 

During  the  French  invasion  a  battalion  of  soldiers, 
numbering  about  five  hundred,  marched  down  to  this  cor- 
ner of  the  Eepublic.  After  camping  in  the  plain  for  a  few 
days  they  returned  to  A7no,  fully  satisfied  that  the  natives 
had  been  impressed  with  the  importance  of  these  Gallic 
visitors. 

The  ultimate  destination  of  the  tourist,  the  well-known 
volcano  of  Jorullo,  will  now  be  described. 

The  trail  up  the  mountain  leaves  the  AcapuJco  road  at 
La  Playa. 

The  base  of  the  cone  of  the  volcano  is  about  three  miles 
distant.  Whether  the  traveler  passes  the  night  at  Tejamanil, 
or  at  Seilor  Vega's  residence,  he  should  set  out  before  day- 
light (say  4  A.  M.),  in  order  to  reach  the  summit  and  return 
before  the  sun  becomes  too  hot.  One  hour  will  be  requisite 
to  go  from  Tejamatiil  to  La  Playa  in  the  dark.  Leaving 
the  main  road,  the  path  traverses  a  barren  sandy  plateau 
covered  with  bowlders  of  black  scoriaceous  basalt.  Pres- 
ently the  grade  ascends,  and  we  pass  through  underbrush 
and  groves  of  the  huisacM  and  tepejuaje  trees.  Horses 
can  be  ridden  to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  crater.  A  Mexi- 
can peasant  may  be  hired  to  act  as  guide  for  the  sum  of  one 
dollar.     He  will  take  care  of  the  tourist's  horse,  if  no  mozo 


THE  MEXICAN-  NATIONAL  BAIL  WAY.         227 

accompanies  him,  and  point  out  the  way  to  the  summit, 
which  can  readily  be  ascended  alone.  About  two  hours 
will  be  necessary  to  arrive  at  the  crater  from  the  Puerta  de 
la  Play  a.  The  scientific  tourist  will  want  to  spend  as  much 
time  on  the  volcano.  A  thermometer  should  be  taken  along 
to  measure  the  temperature  of  the  hot  gases  escaping  from 
the  fumaroles. 

The  general  direction  of  the  mountain-mass  of  Jorullo 
is  north  and  south.  The  volcano  is  pear-shaped,  the  outlet 
of  the  crater  being  on  the  north  side.  The  cone  is  covered 
with  loose  black  ashes  in  which  a  few  bushes  grow,  and  its 
slope  on  the  north  and  west  sides  is  about  forty-five  degrees. 

The  crater  is  about  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  the 
diameter  from  north  to  south  is  estimated  at  500  yards,  the 
distance  from  east  to  west  being  a  little  less.  The  highest 
point  is  on  the  east  side.  According  to  Baron  von  Hum- 
boldt's measurements,  the  summit  of  this  volcano  is  4,267 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  or  1,683  feet  above  the 
"Playas  de  Jorullo,'^  which  is  probably  the  same  place  that 
now  bears  the  name  of  Puerta  de  la  Playa,  often  called 
simply  La  Playa. 

Many  clefts  and  fumaroles  are  found  in  the  edge  of  the 
crater.  The  writer  took  the  temperatures  of  some  of  them 
as  follows  :  aqueous  vapor  escaping  from  the  west  side  was 
found  to  be  132°  Fahr.,  and  suli^hurous-acid  gas  in  a  fuma- 
role  at  the  mouth  of  the  crater  had  a  mean  temperature  of 
130°  Fahr.,  the  column  of  mercury  rising  and  falling  a  few 
degrees  while  the  thermometer  was  exposed  to  the  hot 
vapor.  The  traveler  can  make  the  circuit  of  the  crater 
without  difficulty. 

Grass  about  four  feet  high,  a  few  ferns,  and  tepejuaje 
and  changunyo  (native  trees),  grow  on  the  border.  Deer 
are  abundant  on  the  mountain.  There  is  an  immense 
stream  of  lava  on  the  north  side,  having  a  dark-red  color, 
owinjr  to  the  oxidation  of  the  iron  in  the  rock.     It  is  com- 


228  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

posed  of  scoriaceous  basalt,  and  looks  like  the  slag  of  a 
furnace. 

The  rocks  of  JoruUo,  however,  are  neither  uniform  in 
texture  nor  composition.  They  vary  in  color  from  black 
and  red  to  gray  and  grayish  white.  Bluish  basalt  containing 
olivine  occurs  near  the  bottom  of  the  crater,  and  whitish- 
gray  trachyte  forms  the  greater  part  of  it.  The  latter  rock 
is  traversed  with  a  few  small  veins  of  sulphur. 

The  tourist  may  descend  to  the  bottom  of  the  mouth  of 
the  volcano,  which  is  about  500  feet  below  the  summit. 
The  walls  slant  rapidly  and  are  covered  with  an  enormous 
mass  of  talus,  containing  many  angular  fragments  of  red 
and  black  rocks.  Shocks  of  earthquake  are  often  felt  in 
the  environs  of  Jorullo,  extending  sometimes  as  far  as  3Io- 
relia,  60  miles  distant. 

A  recent  earthquake  (in  March,  1883)  was  perceptible  at 
Ario  for  the  space  of  two  minutes,  and  cracks  were  formed 
in  the  ground  at  a  point  ten  miles  off. 

Although  no  eruption  has  taken  place  for  upward  of  a 
hundred  years,  this  volcano  is  still  in  a  semi-active  state, 
as  shown  by  the  heat  of  the  crater-walls,  the  emission  of 
sulphurous  gas  and  aqueous  vapor,  and  the  frequency  of 
earthquakes.  Another  stream  of  lava  might  flow  out  of 
Jorullo  at  any  time. 

The  view  from  the  summit  next  demands  attention.  It 
is  very  extensive.  The  eye  follows  the  contour  of  the 
Sierra  Madre  to  the  westward  for  more  than  100  miles, 
until  the  lofty  volcano  of  Colinia,  capped  with  snow,  bounds 
the  horizon.  The  picturesque  mountain,  La  Estancia  de 
los  Padres,  is  very  conspicuous,  and  also  the  grassy  plain 
in  front  of  it,  having  a  breadth  of  forty-five  miles.  On  the 
south  the  country  is  much  broken  in  outline,  and  to  the 
eastward  the  observer  may  trace  the  undulating  surface  of 
the  table-land.  Looking  northerly,  one  sees  the  sugar-cane 
fields  and  banana-groves  near  Tejamanil,  whose  bright  verd- 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         229 

lire  forms  a  pleasant  contrast  to  the  greater  part  of  the 
desert  landscape.  The  tourist  may  also  have  an  excellent 
view  of  the  jjalm-tree  hacienda  in  the  valley,  which  yields 
an  income  of  about  $10,000  a  year.  It  is  the  largest  in 
Michoacan. 

The  descent  from  the  cone  of  Jorullo  is  easy,  and  the 
Puerta  de  la  Playa  can  be  reached  in  about  an  hour,  the 
path  being  mostly  down-grade.  The  appearance  of  Jortdlo 
from  the  valley  is  worthy  of  mention.  If  the  observer 
has  time  to  geologize,  let  him  speculate  upon  the  original 
size  of  the  plain  before  the  eruption  of  1759.  This  volcano 
is  the  culminating  point  of  a  narrow  ridge  about  six  miles 
long,  and  running  due  north  and  south.  There  are  other 
hills  of  igneous  rock  on  the  eastern  and  northeastern  bor- 
ders of  the  plain.  The  valley  of  La  Playa  is  now  about  a 
mile  wide  and  six  miles  long.  A  rough  estimate  would 
make  the  breadth  of  it  about  eight  miles  before  the  eleva- 
tion of  Jorullo. 

Alexander  von  Humboldt  explored  this  region  in  1803, 
and  wrote  a  lengthy  account  of  the  great  volcano  in  his 
journal.  It  is  also  described  both  in  the  Essai  Politique 
sur  la  Nouvelle  Espagne  and  in  the  Cosmos.  The  follow- 
ing extracts  are  taken  from  Otte  and  Dallas's  translation  of 
the  Cosmos,  vol.  v,  pages  291-300  : 

"In  the  series  of  Mexican  volcanoes,  .  .  .  the  most  celebrated  phe- 
nomenon is  the  elevation  of  the  newly-produced  Jorullo,  and  its  effusion  of 
lava.  .  .  .  The  eruption  in  a  broad  and  long-peaceful  plain,  in  the  former 
province  of  Michoacan,  in  the  night  from  the  28th  to  the  29th  of  Septem- 
ber, 1759,  at  a  distance  of  more  than  120  miles  from  any  other  volcano,  was 
preceded  for  fully  three  months,  namely,  from  the  29th  of  June  in  the  same 
year,  by  an  uninterrupted  and  subterranean  noise.  .  .  . 

"  The  eruption  of  the  new  volcano,  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
was  foretold  the  day  before  by  a  phenomenon  which,  in  other  eruptions, 
docs  not  indicate  their  commencement,  but  their  conclusion.  At  the  point 
where  the  great  volcano  now  stands  there  was  formerly  a  thick  wood  of  the 
Guayava.  .  .  . 


230  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

"  Laborers  from  the  sugar-cane  fields  (canaveralcs)  of  the  Hacienda  de 
San  Pedro  Jorullo  .  .  .  had  gone  out  to  collect  the  fruit  of  the  guayava. 
When  they  returned  to  the  farm  {hacienda)  it  was  remarked  with  astonish- 
ment that  their  large  straw  hats  were  covered  with  volcanic  ashes.  Fis- 
sures had  consequently  already  opened  in  what  is  now  called  the  3Ialpais, 
probably  at  the  foot  of  the  high  basaltic  dome  Ul  Cuiche,  which  threw  out 
ashes  (la/nlli)  before  any  change  appears  to  have  occurred  in  the  plain.  .  .  . 

"  In  the  first  hours  of  the  night,  the  black  ashes  already  lay  a  foot 
deep ;  every  one  fled  toward  the  hill  of  Aguasarco,  a  small  Indian  village, 
situated  2,409  feet  higher  than  the  old  plain  of  Jorullo. 

"  From  this  height  (so  runs  the  tradition)  a  large  tract  of  land  was  seen 
iu  a  state  of  fearful  fiery  eruption,  and,  '  in  the  midst  of  the  flames  (as  those 
who  witnessed  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  expressed  themselves),  there  ap- 
peared, like  a  black  castle  {casiillo  negro),  a  great  shapeless  mass  (bulto 
cfrande).^ 

"  From  the  small  population  of  the  district  (the  cultivation  of  indigo 
and  cotton  was  then  but  very  little  carried  on),  even  the  force  of  long- 
continued  earthquakes  cost  no  human  lives,  although,  as  I  learn  from  manu- 
script record,  houses  were  overturned  by  them  near  the  copper-mines  of 
Inguaran,  in  the  small  town  of  Patzcuaro,  in  Santiago  dc  Ai'io,  and  many 
miles  farther,  but  not  beyond  San  Pedro  Churumucu.  In  the  Hacienda  de 
Jorullo,  during  the  general  nocturnal  flight,  they  forgot  to  remove  a  deaf 
and  dumb  negro  slave.  A  mulatto  had  the  humanity  to  return  and  save 
him,  while  the  house  was  still  standing.  It  is  still  related  that  he  was 
found  kneeling,  with  a  consecrated  taper  in  his  hand,  before  the  picture 
of  Nuestra  Seilora  de  Guadalupe. 

"  According  to  the  tradition,  widely  and  concordantly  spread  among  the 
natives,  the  eruption  during  the  first  days  consisted  of  great  masses  of  rock, 
scoriae,  sand,  and  ashes,  but  always  combined  with  an  efCusion  of  muddy 
water.  In  the  memorable  report  already  mentioned,  of  the  19th  of  Octo- 
ber, 1759,  the  author  of  which  was  a  man  who,  possessing  an  accurate 
knowledge  of  the  locality,  describes  what  had  only  just  taken  place,  it  is 
expressly  said  :  '  Que  espele  cl  dicho.     Volcan  arena,  ceniza  y  arjua!' 

"  All  eye-witnesses  relate  .  .  .  that,  before  the  terrible  mountain  made 
its  appearance,  .  .  .  the  earthquakes  and  subterranean  noises  became  more 
frequent ;  but,  on  the  day  of  the  eruption  itself,  the  flat  soil  was  seen  to  rise 
perpendicularly,  .  .  .  and  the  whole  became  more  or  less  inflated,  so  that 
blisters  (vcxiffojies)  appeared,  of  which  the  largest  is  now  the  volcano.  .  .  . 

"These  inflated  l)listers  of  very  various  sizes,  and  partly  of  a  tolerably 
regular  conical  form,  subsequently  burst  .  .  .  and  threw  boiling-hot  earthy 
mud  from  their  orifices,  ...  as  well  as  scoriaccous  stony  masses,  .  .  . 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         231 

which  arc  still  found,  at  an  immense  distance,  covered  with  black,  stony 
masses. 

"  These  historical  records,  which  we  might,  indeed,  wish  to  see  more 
complete,  agree  perfectly  with  what  I  learn  from  the  mouths  of  the  natives, 
foui'teen  years  after  the  ascent  of  Antonio  de  Riafio.*  To  the  questions 
whether  '  the  castle  mountain '  was  seen  to  rise  gradually  for  months  or 
years,  or  whether  it  appeared  from  the  very  first  as  an  elevated  peak,  no 
answer  could  be  obtained. 

"  According  to  the  tradition,  the  phenomena  of  small  eruptions  of  water 
and  mud,  which  were  observed  during  the  first  days  simultaneously  with 
the  incandescent  scorite,  are  ascribed  to  the  destruction  of  two  brooks, 
which,  springing  on  the  western  declivity  of  the  mountain  of  Santa  Ines, 
and  consequently  to  the  east  of  the  Ccrro  de  Cuiche,  abundantly  irrigated 
the  cane-fields  of  the  former  Hacienda  de  San  Pedro  de  Jorullo,  and  flowed 
onward  far  to  the  west  to  the  Hacienda  de  la  Presentacion.  Near  their 
origin,  the  point  is  still  shown  where  they  disappeared  in  a  fissure,  with  their 
formerly  cold  waters,  during  the  elevation  of  the  eastern  border  of  the 
Malpais.  Running  below  the  hornitos,  they  reappear,  according  to  the 
general  opinion  of  the  people  of  the  country,  heated  in  two  thermal 
springs.  .  .  . 

"  In  order  to  acquire  a  clear  notion  of  the  complicated  outline  and  gen- 
eral form  of  the  surface  of  the  ground  in  which  such  remarkable  upheavals 
have  taken  place,  we  must  distinguish  hypsometrically  and  morphologically : 

"  1.  The  position  of  the  volcanic  system  of  Jorullo  in  relation  to  the 
average  level  of  the  Mexican  plateau.  2.  The  convexity  of  the  Malpais, 
which  is  covered  with  thousands  of  hornitos.  3.  The  fissure  upon  which 
six  large  volcanic  mountain-masses  have  arisen. 

"  On  the  western  portion  of  the  central  Cordillera  of  Mexico,  which  strikes 
from  south-southeast  to  north-northwest,  the  plain  of  the  Playas  de  Jo- 
rullo, at  an  elevation  of  only  2,657  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Pacific, 
forms  one  of  the  horizontal  mountain  terraces  which  everywhere  in  the  Cor- 
dilleras interrupt  the  line  of  inclination  of  the  declivity,  and  consequently 
more  or  less  impede  the  decrease  of  heat  in  the  superposed  sti'ata  of  the 
atmosphere. 

"  On  descending  from  the  central  plateau  of  Mexico  (whose  mean  eleva- 
tion is  7,460  feet)  to  the  corn-fields  of  Valladolid  de  Michoacan,  to  the 
charming  Lake  of  Patzcuaro  with  the  inhabited  islet  Janicho,  and  into  the 
meadows  around  Santiago  de  Ario,  which  Bonpland  and  I  found  adorned 
with  the  dahlias,  which  have  since  become  so  well  known,  we  have  not  de- 
scended more  than  nine  hundred  or  a  thousand  feet. 

*  In  1803. 


232 


CITIES  AKD  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


"  But  in  passing  from  Ario  on  the  steep  declivity  over  Aguasarco,  into 
the  level  of  the  old  plain  of  Jorullo,  we  diminish  the  absolute  elevation  in 
this  short  distance  by  from  3,850  to  4,250  feet.  The  roundish  convex  part 
of  the  upheaved  plain  is  about  12,790  feet  in  diameter,  so  that  its  area  is 
more  than  seven  square  miles.  The  true  volcano  of  Jorullo  and  the  five 
other  mountains  which  rose  simultaneously  with  it  upon  the  same  fissure, 
are  so  situated  that  only  a  small  portion  of  the  3Talpais  lies  to  the  east  of 
them. 

"  Toward  the  west,  therefore,  the  number  of  hornitos  is  much  larger ;  and 
when,  in  early  morning,  I  issued  from  the  Indian  huts  of  the  Playas  de  Jo- 


Jorullo. 


rullo  or  ascended  a  portion  of  the  Cerro  del  Mirador,  I  saw  the  black  volcano 
projecting  very  picturesquely  above  the  innumerable  white  columns  of  smoke 
of  the '  little  ovens '  {hornitoa).  Both  the  houses  of  the  Playas  and  the  basaltic 
hill  Mirador  are  situated  upon  the  level  of  the  old  non-volcanic,  or,  to  speak 


TEE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         233 

more  cautiously,  unupheared  soil.  Its  beautiful  vegetation,  in  which  a 
multitude  of  salvias  bloom  beneath  the  shade  of  a  new  species  of  fan- 
palm  {Cori/pha  pumas),  and  of  a  new  alder  (Alnus  Jonillensis),  contrasts 
with  the  desert,  naked  aspect  of  the  Malpais. 

"  The  comparison  of  the  height  of  the  barometer,  at  the  point  where  the 
upheaval  commences  in  the  Playas,  with  that  at  the  point  immediately  at 
the  foot  of  the  volcano,  gives  473  feet  of  relative  perpendicular  elevation. 
The  house  that  we  inhabited  stood  only  about  500  toises  (3, 19*7  feet)  from 
the  border  of  the  Malpais.  At  that  place  there  was  a  small  perpendicular 
precipice  of  scarcely  twelve  feet  high,  from  which  the  heated  water  of  the 
brook  (Rio  de  San  Pedro)  falls  down. 

"  The  portion  of  the  inner  structure  of  the  soil,  which  I  could  examine 
at  the  precipice,  showed  black,  horizontal,  loamy  strata,  mixed  with  sand 
{lapilli).  At  other  points  which  I  did  not  see,  Burkart  has  observed  '  on 
the  perpendicular  boundary  of  the  upheaved  soil  where  the  ascent  of  this  is 
difficult,  a  light  gray  and  not  very  dense  (weathered)  basalt,  with  numerous 
grains  of  olivine.' 

"  This  accurate  and  experienced  observer  has,  however,  like  myself,  on 
the  spot,  conceived  the  idea  of  a  vesicular  upheaval  of  the  surface  effected 
by  elastic  vapors,  in  opposition  to  the  opinion  of  celebrated  geognosists, 
who  ascribe  the  convexity,  which  I  ascertain  by  direct  measurement,  solely 
to  the  greater  effusion  of  lava  at  the  foot  of  the  volcano. 

"  The  many  thousand  small  eruptive  cones  (properly  rather  of  a  round- 
ish or  somewhat  elongated  oven-like  form),  which  cover  the  upheaved  sur- 
face pretty  uniformly,  are  on  the  average  four  to  nine  feet  in  height.  They 
have  risen  almost  exclusively  on  the  western  side  of  the  great  volcano,  as, 
indeed,  the  eastern  part  toward  the  Cerro  de  Cuiche  scarcely  constitutes  one 
twenty-fifth  of  the  entire  area  of  the  vesicular  elevation  of  the  Playas. 

"Each  of  the  numerous  hornitos  is  composed  of  weathered  basaltic 
spheres,  with  fragments  separated  like  concentric  shells  ;  I  was  frequently 
able  to  count  from  twenty-four  to  twenty-eight  such  shells.  The  balls  are 
flattened  into  a  somewhat  spheroidal  form,  and  are  usually  fifteen  to  eight- 
een inches  in  diameter,  but  vary  from  one  to  three  feet.  The  black  basal- 
tic mass  is  penetrated  by  hot  vapors  and  broken  up  into  an  earthy  form, 
although  the  nucleus  is  of  greater  density ;  while  the  shells,  when  detached, 
exhibit  yellow  spots  of  oxide  of  iron.  Even  the  soft,  loamy  mass  which 
unites  the  balls  is,  singularly  enough,  divided  into  curved  lamcllce,  which 
wind  through  all  the  interstices  of  the  balls. 

"At  the  first  glance  I  asked  myself  whether  the  whole,  instead  of 
weathered  basaltic  spheroids,  containing  but  little  olivine,  did  not  perhaps 
present  masses  disturbed  in  the  course  of  their  formation.     But  in  opposi- 


234  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

tion  to  this  we  have  the  analogy  of  the  hills  of  globular  basalt,  mixed  with 
layers  of  clay  and  marl,  which  are  found,  often  of  very  small  dimensions,  in 
the  central  chain  of  Bohemia,  sometimes  isolated  and  sometimes  crowning 
long  basaltic  ridges  at  both  extremities. 

"  Some  of  the  ho7-nitos  are  so  much  broken  up,  or  have  such  large  inter- 
nal cavities,  that  mules,  when  compelled  to  place  their  fore-feet  upon  the 
flatter  ones,  sink  in  deeply,  while  in  similar  experiments  which  I  made  the 
hills  constructed  by  the  termites  resisted.  In  the  basaltic  mass  of  the  hoj-- 
nitos  I  found  no  immersed  scoriae,  or  fragments  of  old  rocks  which  had 
been  penetrated,  as  in  the  case  of  the  lavas  of  the  great  Jorullo.  The  ap- 
pellation homos  or  horniios  is  especially  justified  by  the  circumstance  that 
in  each  of  them  (I  speak  of  the  period  when  I  traveled  over  the  Playas  de 
Jorullo  and  wrote  my  journal,  18th  of  September,  1803)  the  columns  of 
smoke  break  out,  not  from  the  summit,  but  laterally. 

"  In  the  year  1780,  cigars  might  still  be  lighted,  when  they  were  fastened 
to  a  stick  and  pushed  into  a  depth  of  two  or  three  inches  ;  in  some  places 
the  air  was  at  that  time  so  much  heated  in  the  vicinity  of  the  hornitos,  that 
it  was  necessary  to  turn  away  from  one's  proposed  course. 

"  Notwithstanding  the  refrigeration  which,  according  to  the  universal 
testimony  of  the  Indians,  the  district  had  undergone  within  twenty  years, 
I  found  the  temperature  in  the  fissures  of  the  hornitos  to  range  between 
199°  and  203° ;  and,  at  a  distance  of  twenty  feet  from  some  hills,  the  tem- 
perature of  the  air  was  still  108-5°  and  116*2°  at  a  point  where  no  vapors 
reached  me,  the  true  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  of  the  Playas  being  at 
the  same  time  scarcely  77°. 

"  The  weak  sulphuric  vapors  decolorized  strips  of  test-paper,  and  rose 
visibly  for  some  hours  after  sunrise,  to  a  height  of  fully  sixty  feet. 

"  The  view  of  the  columns  of  smoke  was  most  remarkable  early  in  a 
cool  morning.  Toward  midday,  and  even  after  eleven  o'clock,  they  had  be- 
come very  low  and  very  visible  only  from  their  immediate  vicinity.  In  the 
interior  of  many  of  the  horniios  we  heard  a  rushing  sound,  like  the  fall  of 
water.  The  small  basaltic  hornitos  are,  as  already  remarked,  easily  de- 
structible. When  Burkart  visited  the  Alalpais  twenty-four  years  after  me, 
he  found  that  none  of  the  hornitos  were  still  smoking,  their  temperature  be- 
ing in  most  cases  the  same  as  that  of  the  surrounding  air,  while  many  of 
them  had  lost  all  regularity  of  form  by  heavy  rains  and  meteoric  influences. 
Near  the  principal  volcano,  Burkart  found  small  cones,  which  were  com- 
posed  of  a  brownish-red  conglomerate,  of  rounded  or  angular  fragments  of 
lava,  and  only  loosely  coherent. 

"  In  the  midst  of  the  upheaved  area  covered  with  hornitos,  there  is  still 
to  be  seen  a  remnant  of  the  old  elevation  on  which  the  buildings  of  the 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         235 

farm  of  San  Pedro  rested.  The  hill,  which  I  have  indicated  in  my  i)lan, 
forms  a  ridge  directed  east  and  west,  and  its  preservation  at  the  foot  of  the 
great  volcano  is  most  astonishing.  Only  a  part  of  it  is  covered  with  dense 
sand  (burned  lapilli).  The  projecting  basaltic  rock  grown  over  with  ancient 
trunks  of  Ficus  Indica  and  Fsldium,  is  certainly,  like  that  of  the  Cerro  del 
Mirador  and  the  high  mountain-masses  which  bound  the  plain  to  the  east- 
ward, to  be  regarded  as  having  existed  before  the  catastrophe."  * 

Eef erring  to  the  eruption  of  the  volcano,  Humboldt 
romark.s  that  the  natives  ascribe  these  wonderful  changes 
in  the  earth's  surface  to  the  work  of  the  monks.  At  the 
Playas  tie  Jorullo,  the  Indian,  whose  hut  the  German  trav- 
eler occupied,  told  him  that  in  1759  the  Capuchins  belong- 
ing to  the  mission  preached  at  San  Pedro,  but  failed  to  re- 
ceive hospitable  treatment.  Accordingly,  they  pronounced 
anathemas  upon  tliis  beautiful  and  fertile  plain,  predict- 
ing that  first  of  all  the  houses  would  be  destroyed  by 
flames,  which  would  issue  from  the  earth,  and  that  after- 
ward the  surrounding  air  would  cool  to  such  a  degi'ee  that 
the  neighboring  mountains  would,  remain  eternally  covered, 
with  snow  and  ice.  The  former  of  these  maledictions  hav- 
ing been  verified,  the  lower  class  of  Indians  already  see  in 
the  gradual  cooling  of  the  volcano  the  presage  of  a  perpet- 
ual winter. 

Should  the  tourist  wish  to  visit  the  liornitos  that  have 
jiist  been  described,  it  may  be  said  that  they  are  about  12 
miles  from  Puerta  de  la  Playa.  There  is  no  hamlet  in  the 
vicinity.  The  famous  copper-mines  of  San  Pedro  de  Jo- 
rullo are  about  15  miles  distant.  These  ore  deposits  were 
worked  before  the  Conquest,  and  consist  of  the  sulphides  and 
oxides  of  copper.  Several  tunnels  have  been  driven  into  the 
side  of  the  mountain  about  2,000  feet  above  the  adjacent 
plain.  There  is  from  25  to  GO  per  cent  of  metal  in  the  cop- 
per pyrites;  and  from  80  to  100  arrohas  of  ore  are  extracted 
monthly,  and  carried  by  mules  to  Santa  Clara  (see  p.  221). 

*  The  author  has  italicized  all  Spanish  words  in  the  above  extract. 


236  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

The  mining  district  of  Coalcoman  lies  about  60  miles 
west  of  Jorullo.  There  are  many  mines  of  gold,  silver, 
copper,  and  lead  here.  The  deposits  of  iron  are  also  said  to 
be  as  extensive  as  those  of  the  famous  Cerro  del  Mercado  in 
Durango.  This  circumstance,  together  with  the  proximity 
of  the  district  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  gives  reason  to  believe 
that,  upon  the  opening  of  some  of  the  ports  on  the  coast, 
and  the  develojDment  of  the  various  mines,  Coalcoman  will 
become  the  center  of  wealth  and  commerce  of  the  State  of 
Michoacan.  From  Puerta  de  la  Playa  the  traveler  may 
continue  the  journey  southward,  crossing  the  Zacatula 
Eiver  to  Acapulco,  235  miles  distant.  The  greater  part  of 
the  road  follows  the  outline  of  the  Pacific  coast.  The  river 
can  be  forded  in  the  dry  seasons,  but  rafts  must  be  used 
during  the  heavy  rains  of  summer.  The  climate  of  Aca- 
pulco is  very  hot  and  unhealthy.  The  town  lies  on  a  nar- 
row strip  of  land,  less  than  half  a  mile  in  width,  on  which 
there  is  but  little  soil.  It  is  surrounded  by  lofty  granitic 
mountains,  and  has  about  5,000  inhabitants.  There  are 
several  hotels  here.  The  harbor  is  the  finest  in  Mexico. 
For  many  years  Vera  Cruz  was  the  only  other  port  from 
which  goods  were  shipped  to  foreign  countries.  There  was 
formerly  considerable  commerce  between  Acapulco  and  the 
Philippine  Islands.  The  Pacific  Mail  steamships  touch  at 
Acapulco  twice  a  month. 

The  distance  from  Acapulco  to  San  Francisco  is  1,836 
miles,  and  the  fare  is  (cabin)  $100.  The  fare  to  Pa7iama 
is  the  same,  and  the  distance  is  1,591  miles. 

The  terminus  of  the  Morelos  Eailway  will  be  at  Acapul- 
co. The  town  will  probably  become  an  important  com- 
mercial center  when  the  road  is  completed.  At  present  the 
only  object  of  interest  to  the  tourist  is  the  artificial  cut  in 
the  mountain  [Abra  de  San  Nicolas),  which  has  been  ex- 
cavated for  the  purpose  of  admitting  the  sea-breeze.  The 
scenery  of  the  landlocked  harbor  is  picturesque. 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         237 

Route  II. 

FR05I   THE    CITY   OF   MEXICO   TO   LAREDO   AND    CORPUS 
CHRISTI. 

1.  Ilexico  to  Celaya. 

2.  Celaya  to  San  Luis  Potosi. 

3.  Sa7i  Luis  Potosi  to  Saltillo. 

4.  Saltillo  to  Monterey. 

5.  Monterey  to  Laredo. 

G.  Laredo  to  Corpus  Christi. 

1.  Mexico  to  Celaya,  219  miles. 

(For  description  of  this  tour  as  far  as  Acamharo,  and 
thence  to  Celaya,  see  Eoute  I,  pp.  202-210.) 

2.  From  Celaya  to  San  Luis  Potosi. 

Leaving  the  junction  of  this  line  with  the  Mexican  Cen- 
tral Eailroad  at  Celaya,  the  route  will  go  northward  to  San 
Luis  Potosi,  about  120  miles  distant.  This  diyision  of  the 
road  will  traverse  a  fine  agricultural  country. 

On  October  15, 1883,  the  main  line  had  been  constructed 
as  far  as  San  Miguel  de  Allende,  55  "12  kilometres  north  of 
Celaya.  The  intermediate  stations  are  MoUno  del  Soria 
(15 "03  kilometres)  and  Chamacuero  (22*06  kilometres). 
The  track  is  rapidly  approaching  San  Luis  Potosi.  A  daily 
stage-coach  runs  from  this  city  to  the  temporary  terminus. 

SAN   LUIS   POTOSI. 

Population,  35,000  in  1883;  elevation,  6,150  feet. 

Hotels. — San  Fernando,  Del  Progreso,  San  Carlos,  San  Luis,  Americano. 
Baths  of  San  Jose,  in  Calle  de  Rayon,  at  3  and  4  reales ;  one  of  the 
finest  bath-houses  in  Mexico. 

Post-Office,  about  two  blocks  north  of  the  baths. 
English  Bankers. — Pitman  &  Co.,  opposite  the  Cathedral. 

Sa7i  Luis,  as  it  is  generally  called,  is  a  fine  city.  It  is 
the  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same  name.     The  streets  are 


238  GITIE&  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

laid  out  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  and  are  well  j)aved. 
The  houses  are  mostly  of  two  stories.  There  are  several 
public  squares  and  a  fine  park.  The  city  covers  a  large 
area.  It  lies  in  a  broad  and  fertile  plain,  surrounded  by 
lofty  sierras.  The  climate  is  delightful,  the  thermometer 
rarely  falling  as  low  as  the  freezing-point. 

Places  op  Interest. — 1.  The  Cathedral.  2.  The  Mint.  3.  The  City- 
Hall.  4.  The  Church  of  M  Carmen.  5.  The  Church  of  San  Francisco. 
6.  The  Church  of  San  Agustin.  1.  The  Church  of  La  Merced.  8.  The 
Church  of  Guadalupe.  9.  The  Chapels  of  Fl  Rosario  and  Los  Remedios. 
10.  The  Alameda.     11,  The  Plaza  mayor. 

The  cathedral  contains  a  beautiful  clock  that  strikes  the 
hours.  It  is  in  the  f  agade  between  the  towers,  and  was  sent 
as  a  present  to  the  city  from  a  King  of  Spain.  The  tourist 
should  ascend  one  of  the  towers  for  a  view  of  the  environs. 
The  entrance  is  on  the  plaza,  just  north  of  the  principal 
door  of  the  cathedral.  There  is  a  large  monument  erected 
in  honor  of  the  patriot  Hidalgo  in  the  center  of  the  plaza. 

A  horse-car  track  has  just  been  laid  in  the  streets,  and 
the  electric  light  and  telephones  are  already  in  use.  An 
American  capitalist  has  recently  purchased  a  lot  on  the 
Alameda,  with  the  intention  of  building  a  first-class  hotel. 

The  citizens  of  Sail  Luis  are  noted  for  their  hospitality. 
Balls  are  given  in  the  winter  season,  to  which  strangers 
may  be  invited  through  some  merchant  or  banker.  There 
is  a  large  garrison  here,  and  the  military  band  plays  in  the 
Plaza  mayor  three  times  a  week. 

This  city  will  soon  become  a  great  railway  center. 

The  eastern  division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Eailroad  is 
being  pushed  forward  from  Tampico  as  rapidly  as  possible. 
At  present  3,600  men  are  employed  on  this  section  of  the 
line.  It  is  expected  that  the  road  will  reach  San  Luis  Po- 
tosi  on  July  1,  1885.  It  will  be  carried  westward  toward 
the  main  line,  making  a  junction  probably  at  Aguascalien- 
tes.     (For  description  of  this  railway,  see  Section  V.) 


TEE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY. 


239 


A  branch  road  of  the  Mexican  National  Eailway  is  pro- 
jected to  Zacatecas.     The  distance  is  about  150  miles. 
San  Luis  is  now  a  central  station  for  diligence-lines. 
The  proprietors  of  the  Diligencias  Generales  run  stage- 


Interior  of  a  Modern  Mexican  House. 

coaches  as  follows  :  To  Queretaro,  160  miles,  fare,  $10  ; 
to  Lagos,  117  miles,  fare,  $10  ;  to  Saltillo,  331  miles,  fare, 
$30  ;  to  El  Maiz,  104  miles,  fare,  $10  ;  to  Fi7ios,  71  miles, 
fare,  18. 


24:0  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

Connection  with  Tampico  may  be  made  at  El  Maiz  by 
horseback,  104  miles  to  the  Rio  Panuco,  then  by  steamer 
eastward  to  the  raih'oad  terminus.  The  site  of  San  Luis  is 
far  preferable  to  that  of  Mexico.  When  the  two  American 
trunk-lines  are  finished,  it  is  believed  that  the  former  city 
will  soon  become  a  rival  of  the  latter  in  commercial  impor- 
tance. At  present  freight  charges  to  San  Luis  are  enor- 
mous— e.  g.,  a  box  of  snuff,  valued  at  19  in  New  Orleans, 
will  cost  150  delivered  in  San  Luis  via  Laredo,  including 
the  duties. 

Residents  of  this  city  are  taxed  heavily  for  the  railroad 
toward  Tampico.  They  pay  three  per  cent  of  their  annual 
income.  An  extensive  trade  in  groceries,  leather,  shoes, 
saddlery,  bagging,  cassimeres,  hats,  and  grain  is  carried  on 
here.  Fruit  and  the  cereals  grow  in  the  environs.  It  is  said 
that  twenty  bushels  of  Indian  corn  are  produced  to  the  acre. 

This  State  is  rich  in  minerals,  although  but  few  of  the 
mines  are  worked  at  present,  owing  to  lack  of  capital.  The 
famous  Sail  Pedro  mine  is  near  the  city.  The  pillars  hav- 
ing been  cut  away,  the  roof  of  the  mine  has  fallen  in. 
Mining  engineers  state  that  there  is  still  a  large  body  of  ore 
awaiting  development.  The  biggest  piece  of  native  gold 
ever  found  in  Mexico  is  said  to  have  been  taken  out  of  the 
San  Pedro.  It  was  sent  to  the  reigning  King  of  Spain  as 
a  gift,  and  in  return  the  Spanish  sovereign  presented  a 
clock  to  the  cathedral,  which  has  already  been  described. 

3.  From  San  Luis  Potosi  to  Saltillo;  time,  4  days. 

Leaving  San  Luis  Potosi,  the  railroad  will  be  continued 
northward  through  Venado,  Charcas,  and  Encarnacion,  to 
Saltillo,  a  distance  of  about  330  miles.  The  road  will  cross 
the  great  table-land,  and  the  grading  will  be  easy.  The 
engineers  report  that  the  line  just  mentioned  can  be  con- 
structed in  about  the  same  time  that  has  been  necessary 
to  lay  the  track  between  Monterey  and  Saltillo.     At  the 


TEE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.  241 

present  time  the  stage-coacli  route  from  San  Luis  to  the 
north  passes  through  Charcas,  Mateliuala,  Cedral,  La  Ven- 
tura, and  Saltillo  ;  thence  by  rail  to  Laredo  via  Monterey. 
The  diligence  starts  daily  from  Sati  Luis  at  4  a.  m. 

The  average  distance  traversed  is  about  82  miles  a  day. 
The  taverns  along  the  road  are  very  inferior,  and  the  tour- 
ist is  advised  to  provide  himself  with  beef-tea,  canned 
goods,  red  wine,  etc.  The  route  from  San  Luis  Potosi  to 
Saltillo  may  be  briefly  described  as  follows  :  The  road  leads 
northward  from  the  former  city  over  the  broad  and  level 
valley,  in  which  mesquite,  maguey,  and  wopa?  grow  for  many 
miles.  The  picturesque  sierra  bounds  the  plain  on  the  east, 
while  a  rolling  country  is  seen  to  the  westward.  The  town 
of  Montezuma,  famous  for  its  red  wine,  is  passed  on  the  way. 

The  first  night  is  spent  at  Charcas,  which  has  about 
the  same  elevation  as  San  Luis  Potosi.  The  meso?i  is  clean, 
and  the  water  good.  There  is  a  telegraph  here.  The  popu- 
lation numbers  about  2,000,  and  the  distance  from  San 
Luis  is  91  miles. 

Leaving  Charcas,  the  road  trends  slightly  to  the  north- 
east, and  lies  over  a  broad  plain  for  several  miles,  when  the 
mountains  of  Catorce  come  into  view.  The  diligence  stops 
at  Matehuala  for  dinner.  The  hotel  is  tolerably  well  kept. 
This  city  has  a  population  of  15,000,  and  contains  many 
haciendas  de  hetieficios,  or  silver-reducing  works.  There 
are  also  silver-mines  in  the  vicinity. 

Catorce  is  13  miles  distant.  It  has  about  12,000  inhab- 
itants, but  710  hotel.  The  population  at  one  time  reached 
20,000.  Some  of  the  richest  veins  of  silver  in  the  Repub- 
lic are  found  in  the  vicinity.  They  are  owned  chiefly  by 
Spaniards  and  Englishmen.  During  the  French  invasion  a 
mint  was  established  here.  The  mines  of  Catorce  have  not 
paid  well  for  the  last  few  years  ;  but  it  is  said  that  some 
rich  pockets  of  ore  have  been  found  very  recently,  while 
driving  a  tunnel,  in  one  of  the  old  Spanish  claims. 
11 


242  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

The  word  "  catoi^ce^^  means  fourteen.  The  town  was 
named  after  a  band  of  fourteen  robbers,  who  were  the  ter- 
ror of  the  neighborhood  for  many  years. 

On  reaching  Matehuala,  the  traveler  enters  a  region 
abounding  with  bhie  hmestone.  The  water  is  purgative, 
and  should  be  drunk  si^aringly.  The  road  continues  over 
a  level  plain  toward  Cedral,  about  13  miles  farther.  In 
places,  the  tourist  may  see  solid  stone  fences,  marking  the 
boundaries  of  haciendas,  or  farms.  These  fences  are  often 
carried  up  to  the  summits  of  the  adjacent  ridges. 

The  soil  is  little  cultivated  between  Charcas  and  Cedral. 
Irrigation  is  necessary,  and  there  are  no  acequias  or  ditches. 
By  taking  advantage  of  the  rainy  season,  however,  more 
cereals  could  be  grown.  This  portion  of  the  great  northern 
table-land,  like  the  others,  will  always  yield  more  in  min- 
eral than  in  agricultural  products,  unless  water  companies 
are  organized,  and  tanks  built  in  the  ravines  of  the  sierras 
for  irrigation. 

The  second  night  is  passed  at  Cedral,  78  miles  from 
Charcas.  The  former  town  has  about  4,000  inhabitants 
and  two  taverns.  The  Diligencias  is  the  better.  It  has 
accommodation  for  eight  passengers.  There  are  several 
silver-reducing  mills  in  Cedral.  The  ores  come  from  Ca- 
torce,  and  contain  suljohur.  They  are  roasted,  therefore,  in 
a  reverberatory  furnace,  before  being  crushed  and  amalga- 
mated. The  pyramidal  mountain  of  El  Fraile  stands  near 
the  town.  It  may  be  ascended  by  a  bridle-path  to  a  point 
a  short  distance  from  the  summit,  and  thence  on  foot. 

Leaving  Cedral,  there  is  a  good  road  to  La  Ventura, 
81  miles  distant,  over  a  broad  valley,  bordered  with  sierras 
on  either  side.  There  is  but  little  vegetation  to  be  seen, 
other  than  the  huisachi,  mesquite,  and  shrub-palms.  At 
El  Salado,  about  27  miles  from  Cedral,  a  stop  is  made  for 
lunch.  We  are  now  on  the  eastern  boundary  of  one  of  the 
largest  estates  in  Mexico,  the  Hacienda  del  Salado.     It  lies 


TEE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         2^3 

partly  in  the  four  States  of  San  Luis  Potosi,  Zacatecas, 
Nuevo  Leon,  and  Coahuila.  There  are  8,000  horses  and 
3,000  cattle  on  the  farm.  Wells  and  tanks  are  used  for 
watering  the  stock,  as  no  running  streams  exist  here. 

The  next  night  is  spent  in  La  Ventura,  at  the  ranch 
of  General  Trevino.  This  spot  lies  in  a  broad  plain,  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  ridges  of  mountains.  There  is  a  large 
pond  in  the  rear  of  the  farm-house,  where  the  tourist  can 
bathe.  The  "hotel"  accommodation  is  very  poor,  and  the 
traveler  is  warned  to  beware  of  fleas  [pulgas). 

Leaving  La  Vetitura,  where  the  elevation  is  5,840  feet, 
the  road  continues  level  for  several  miles.  The  limestone 
rock  still  covers  the  country.  Presently  a  long  hill  is  as- 
cended, and  Agua  Nueva  is  reached.  Here  the  altitude  is 
6,380  feet.  This  is  a  fertile  spot,  and  affords  good  water. 
It  is  about  20  miles  from  Saltillo.  This  part  of  the  route  is 
celebrated  in  Mexican  history  as  being  the  scene  of  battles, 
both  during  the  War  of  Independence  as  well  as  in  the  con- 
flict with  the  United  States.  A  few  miles  farther  is  the 
hamlet  of  La  Encantada,  having  an  elevation  of  6,171  feet. 
General  Taylor  with  his  army  encamped  here  before  the 
battle  of  Buena  Vista. 

A  wagon-road  goes  from  this  place  to  Parras,*  and  the 
"lagu7ia"  country  of  Coahuila.  The  altitude  of  Parras 
is  4,986  feet,  according  to  Wislizenus.  Cotton,  fruit,  and 
the  cereals  grow  in  considerable  quantities  in  the  vicinity 
of  Parras.  The  annual  crop  of  the  former  staple  amounts 
to  650,000  pounds.  The  yucca-tree  is  common  in  Coahuila. 
It  grows  to  a  height  of  thirty  feet.  Some  species  bear  an 
edible  fruit  which  resembles  the  banana.  Proceeding  far- 
ther, the  traveler  crosses  the  famous  battle-field  of  Buena 
Vista,  on  a  plateau  about  half  a  mile  wide.  Here,  on  Feb- 
ruary 23  and  23,  1847,  the  American  army,  under  General 
Taylor,  defeated  the  Mexicans,  who  were  commanded  by 

*  Parras  is  about  75  miles  west  of  Saltillo. 


244 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


Smita  Anna.     The  forces  of  the  latter  outnumbered  those 
of  the  former  by  about  four  to  one. 

The  stage-road  descends  from  Buena  Vista  nearly  all 
the  way  to  Saltillo,  the  first  part  of  it  being  quite  rough. 
The  difference  of  elevation  between  the  two  points  is  almost 


Yucca-tree. 


a  thousand  feet.  The  jagged  ridge  of  limestone  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  route  soon  trends  to  the  eastward,  and 
extends  as  far  as  Monterey. 

The  tourist  approaching  Saltillo  does  not  see  it  until 
within  about  300  yards  of  the  city.  He  may  have,  how- 
ever, an  extensive  view  of  the  valley  in  which  this  town 


TEE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         245 

lies,  as  well  as  the  picturesque  sierras  bounding  it,  from  the 
l)lateau  on  the  south. 

After  a  continual  descent,  the  houses  come  in  sight,  and 
the  diligence  rattles  over  the  cobble-stone  pavement  of  the 
streets  to  the  hotel,  stopping  first  at  the  post-office  to  de- 
liver the  mail.     The  city  is  81  miles  from  La  Ventura. 

SALTILLO. 

Population,  11,340;  elevation,  5,204  feet. 
IIoTEL. — San  Esteban. 

There  are  a  few  meso7ies.  The  water  for  the  city  is 
brought  from  the  mountains  in  a  long  aqueduct.  Saltillo 
is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Coahuila,  and  is  a  very  healthy 
place.  It  is  well  built,  and  contains  an  Alameda  and  several 
plazas.  The  parochial  church  on  the  Plaza  mayor  is  worthy 
of  a  visit.  There  is  a  small  garrison  and  a  bull-ring  here. 
A  fort,  which  was  built  during  the  French  occupation, 
stands  on  the  hill  behind  the  city.  Several  cotton-factories 
are  found  in  the  neighborhood,  and  a  considerable  trade  in 
goat  and  sheep  skins  is  carried  on  in  Saltillo.  This  city  is 
destined  to  become  the  emporium  of  Northeastern  Mexico. 
A  wagon-road  leads  to  Monclova,  121  miles  distant,  and 
the  Mexican  International  Eailroad,  starting  from  Piedras 
Negras,  will  probably  have  a  branch  line  from  Monclova  to 
Saltillo.  The  Mexican  National  Kailway  began  to  run 
trains  to  the  latter  town  about  September  15,  1883.*  The 
climate  is  temperate  and  dry.  An  American  capitalist  is 
about  to  erect  a  hotel,  with  all  the  modern  conveniences. 
Saltillo  is  likely  to  become  a  resort  for  invalids.  It  has 
many  advantages  over  Colorado,  and  the  distance  from 
New  York  or  Philadelphia  to  either  place  is  about  the 
same. 

*  On  October  15,  1883,  the  road-bed  had  been  graded  to  El  Salado,  86 
miles  south  of  Saltillo. 


246  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

4.  From  Saltillo  to  Monterey,  BY'S  miles.     Difference  of  elevation,  3,414 

feet. 

Leaving  Saltillo,  the  railroad  traverses  a  fertile  valley, 
in  which  wheat,  barley,  and  maize  are  cultivated.  The 
views  along  the  route  are  beautiful.  The  first  station  is 
Capellania  (8  miles).  Passing  the  hamlets  of  Ojo  Caliente 
(18-4  miles)  and  Los  Muertos  (24-5  miles),  we  reach  Rinco- 
nada  (31-1  miles).  Here  the  altitude  is  3,316  feet,  or  1,888 
feet  lower  than  Saltillo.  There  is  a  large  ranch  near  the 
station.  The  track  of  the  Mexican  National  Railway  leaves 
the  broad  canon  near  Rinconada.  The  grade  now  de- 
scends rapidly,  and  the  scenery  becomes  magnificent.  The 
walls  of  the  valley  are  formed  of  steep,  rocky  ridges  with 
serrated  outlines.  The  next  stop  is  made  at  Garcia  (46-8 
miles),  elevation,  2,465  feet.  The  next  station  is  Santa 
Catarina  (59-8  miles).  This  village  has  a  population  of 
about  1,500.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  mesquite  and  nopal 
growing  in  the  vicinity.  The  famous  potrero  is  about 
four  miles  distant.  It  is  a  pasture  which  is  reached  by  a 
winding  canon  intersecting  the  south  side  of  the  lofty  and 
rocky  sierra.  The  scenery  is  very  picturesque.  The  lime- 
stone has  been  shaped  into  pinnacles,  domes,  and  towers. 
In  fact,  it  reminds  the  traveler  of  a  miniature  Yosemite.  A 
very  pleasant  excursion  from  Monterey  would  be.  to  take 
the  morning  train  to  Santa  Catarina,  visit  the  potrero  on 
horseback  or  on  foot,  and  return  to  the  city  by  the  evening 
train.  The  wagon-road  passes  Independence  Hill,  a  few 
miles  beyond  Santa  Catarina.  It  is  an  artificial  mound 
about  150  feet  high,  with  two  wooden  crosses  on  the  sum- 
mit, erected  to  the  memory  of  the  heroes  who  fell  at  the 
battle  of  Monterey  in  1847.  There  was  considerable  fight- 
ing in  this  region  during  the  Mexican  "War.  Among  other 
soldiers  who  fought  here  and  have  since  become  famous, 
may  be  mentioned  General  William  T.  Sherman,  who  was 
then  a  lieutenant  in  the  United  States  Army. 


TEE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY. 


247 


We  now  pass  the  stations  of  Leona  (61*5  miles)  and  San 
Geronimo  (64*1  miles).  Continuing  the  Journey  toward 
Monterey,  the  next  place  of  interest  is  the  Bishop's  Palace, 
situated  on  a  hill  about  150  feet  above  the  surrounding 
plain.  A  fort  was  built  on  this  eminence,  and  occupied  by 
the  Mexicans  during  the  war.    After  a  short  resistance,  the 


,  «.-«s»,.isb^ 


Scene  on,  the  JS'orthern  Plateau. 


Americans  caused  it  to  surrender.  At  present  the  Bishop's 
Palace  is  used  as  a  barracks.  A  company  of  artillery,  with 
half  a  dozen  guns,  is  stationed  here.  The  city  is  four  miles 
distant.  A  species  of  dwarf  palm-tree,  popularly  called  the 
dagger-plant,  grows  along  the  wagon-road. 

The  next  stopping-place  is  Gonzalitos  {(jQ  miles),  after 
which  comes  Monterey  (67*8  miles). 


248  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

MONTEREY. 

Population,  15,300;  elevation,  1,790  feet. 

Hotels. — Iturbide,  Monterey^  Fonda  Americana. 

Baths. — Del  Refugio,  in  the  Calle  de  Dr.  Mier. 

Carriages. — Four  reales  an  hour. 

Post-Office,  on  the  plaza. 

Telegraph-Office,  at  the  railway-station. 

Horse-Cars,  from  ihe  plaza  to  the  railway-station ;  fare,  a  medio  (6J  cents). 

The  city  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Nuevo  Leon,  and 
is  situated  on  the  Rio  de  Santa  Catarina,  in  latitude  25° 
40'  6"  north,  and  longitude  0°  49'  west  of  Mexico.  It  lies 
in  a  broad  plain,  with  the  majestic  Bishoji's  Mitre,  or  Cerro 
de  la  Mitra,  on  the  west,  and  the  unique  Saddle-Mountain, 
or  Cerro  de  la  Silla,  on  the  east.  Both  of  tliese  hills  are 
formed  almost  entirely  of  solid  rock.  The  latter  is  4,149 
feet  and  the  former  3,618  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Monterey  covers  a  great  deal  of  ground.  The  houses  are 
mostly  of  one  story,  except  on  the  two  public  squares,  where 
they  have  two  stories. 

Places  op  Interest. — 1.  The  Cathedral.  2.  The  Bishop's  Palace  (al- 
ready described).  3.  The  New  Bridge,  or  Puente  Nuevo.  4.  The  Tank, 
Ojo  de  Agua.     5.  The  Chapel  of  Guadalupe. — 6.  The  Market. 

The  bridge  is  famous  as  the  scene  of  a  battle  between  the 
Mexicans  and  Americans.  The  former  defended  it  success- 
fully against  the  onslaught  of  the  latter.  Zealous  Catholics 
in  Monterey  say  that  the  image  of  the  Virgin,  then  on  the 
bridge,  assured  the  victory  of  their  countrymen. 

The  tank  is  much  used  lor  washing  clothes  and  for 
bathing.  The  stranger  should  ascend  the  hill  known  as 
the  Caido,  beyond  the  chapel  of  Guadalupe  and  due  south 
of  the  city.  A  carriage  may  be  driven  to  within  a  hundred 
yards  of  the  summit,  or  it  can  easily  be  reached  on  horse- 
back. The  view  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  in  the  Ee- 
public,  and  affords  an  opportunity  of  studying  the  topog- 
raphy of  Monterey  and  the  neighboring  battle-fields. 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         249 

It  reminds  the  traveler  of  Salzburg,  and  several  other 
towns  in  the  Tyrol.  If  the  tourist  intends  remaining  long 
in  the  city,  he  may  ascend  the  Saddle-Mountain,  or  the 
Bishop's  Mitre.  A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  potrero 
(described  on  page  246).  Native  work,  such  as  fancy 
baskets,  purses,  bird-figures,  etc.,  can  be  purchased  at  the 
jail,  which  is  in  the  old  convent  of  San  Francisco. 

Monterey  has  become  more  Americanized,  perhaps,  than 
any  other  Mexican  town.  The  hotels  are  kept  on  the 
American  plan  ;  and  merchants,  lawyers,  doctors,  and  den 
tists  from  the  United  States  have  established  themselves  here. 

There  are  beautiful  drives  in  the  vicinity.  The  climate 
is  dry  and  healthy,  although  very  warm  for  half  the  year. 
Monterey  is  on  the  isothermal  line  that  passes  through  the 
Canary  Isles,  and  Canton,  in  China.  The  prevailing  wind 
is  from  the  southeast.  The  following  temperatures  were 
taken  in  1865  by  Dr.  E.  Gonzalez,  and  given  to  the  author  . 

Mean  temperature  of  the  year 71"  Fahr. 

Mean  temperature  of  the  winter 55°  " 

Mean  temperature  of  the  summer 83°  " 

Hottest  month,  July 84J°  " 

Coldest  month,  January 51°  " 

Maximum  temperature,  May  25th 107°  " 

Minimum  temperature,  January  24th 32°  " 

This  city  may  become  a  resort  for  invalids,  a  few  of 
whom  passed  the  winter  of  1883  here.  The  changes  of 
temperature,  however,  are  said  to  be  more  rapid  than  at 
Saltillo,  and  the  climate  of  the  latter  town  is  certainly 
much  cooler  in  summer. 

5.  From  Monterey  to  Laredo.     Distance,  172  miles.     Fares:  $7.05,  first 
class ;  $5.75,  second  class.     Two  passenger-trains  daily. 

Leaving  Monterey  station,  which  is  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  plaza,  the  road  runs  northward  over  the 
broad  plain.     The  mountains  surrounding  the  city  present 


250  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

a  magnificent  spectacle  to  the  eye,  and  are  seen  to  best  ad- 
vantage from  the  rear  platform  of  the  last  car.  As  the 
train  moves  onward,  they  appear  to  fade  out  of  sight  like  a 
dissolving  view.  Much  coin  and  bullion  are  transported 
over  this  route.  Sometimes  $100,000  will  be  carried  in 
the  baggage-car  of  the  train.  Passing  the  hamlet  of  Es- 
tancia  (6  miles),  the  next  station  is  Topo  (13  miles).  Here 
the  elevation  is  1,590  feet,  or  200  feet  lower  than  Mon- 
terey. 

The  next  stop  is  made  at  Salinas  (21  miles),  where  the 
altitude  is  1,432  feet.  This  town  has  about  4,000  inhab- 
itants, and  is  situated  on  a  river  of  the  same  name.  The 
surrounding  region  is  fertile,  and  produces  fruit.  The 
adjoining  canon  contains  silver-mines  that  are  worked  at 
the  present  time. 

Leaving  Salinas,  the  lofty  sierra  still  bounds  the  plain 
on  the  west.  The  ridge-line  is,  however,  somewhat  lower 
than  at  Monterey,  and  it  decreases  in  height  on  running 
northward,  until  it  assumes  the  form  of  a  mesa,  or  terrace. 

Palo  Blanco  (43  miles)  is  the  next  station,  and  then  the 
train  stops  at  Villaldama  (59  miles).  A  forest  of  palm- 
trees  is  passed  on  the  way,  and  the  country  to  the  eastward 
continues  level  for  many  miles.  The  elevation  of  Villal- 
dama is  1,412  feet,  and  it  is  named  after  Aldama,  one  of 
the  heroes  of  the  War  of  Independence.  The  town  lies 
about  a  mile  east  of  the  railroad,  and  was  formerly  known 
as  Boca  de  los  Leones.  The  population  numbers  about 
5,000,  and  it  is  chiefly  descended  from  Sjianiards.  There 
are  lead-mines  in  the  vicinity,  but  they  have  been  aban- 
doned, owing  to  lack  of  capital.  Leaving  Villaldama,  the 
next  station  is  Bustamante  (67  miles),  where  a  stop  of 
twenty  minutes  is  made  for  dinner.  The  next  station  is 
Golondrinos  (74  miles),  where  a  stock-farm  may  be  visited. 
Passing  the  hamlet  of  Salome  Botello  (83  miles),  we  reach 
Lampazos  (96  miles),  which  has  an  elevation  of  1,032  feet. 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY. 


251 


The  latter  town  lies  eastward  of  the  track.  Mexican 
blankets  are  manufactured  here. 

Opposite  Lampazos  is  the  Mesa  de  los  Cartulianes,  a 
terrace  rising  about  2,000  feet  above  the  plain.  Its  area  is 
about  20  X  15  miles,  and  it  is  accessible  from  only  one 
point.  This  plateau  affords  good  water,  grass,  and  timber. 
It  was  formerly  used  by  Indians  as  a  hiding-place.  The 
mesa  is  owned  by  Patrick 
Milmo,  Esq.,  an  Irish  settler, 
who  married  the  daughter 
of  an  ex-Governor  of  Nuevo 
Leon.  Mr.  Milmo  is  also 
the  proprietor  of  an  im- 
mense amount  of  real  estate 
in  Monterey  and  the  adja- 
cent region. 

Leaving  Lampazos,  the 
train  passes  Mojina  (109 
miles)  and  Rodriguez  (124 
miles).  Just  before  reach- 
ing the  latter  place  the  track 
makes  a  bend  to  the  east. 
The  elevation  of  Rodriguez 
is  G51  feet.  The  country 
is  now  covered  with  nopal- 
bushes  and  mesquite.  The 
mountain  -  ridge  gradually 
subsides  into  the  plain.  "We 

cross  the  Salado  Eiver,  and  reach  HuisacMto  (135  miles), 
where  the  road-bed  curves  eastward.  The  next  station  is 
Jarita  (148  miles).  Here  the  altitude  is  674  feet.  The 
surrounding  country  is  flat  and  uninteresting  as  far  as  the 
frontier.  Passing  Sanchez  (150  miles),  Neio  Laredo  (166 
miles)  is  reached.  The  Mexican  National  Railway  crosses 
the  Mexican  Southern  just  before  reaching  its  station. 


Varieties  of  Cactus. 


252  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

KEW  LAREDO. 

Population,  about  10,000;  elevation,  438  feet. 
Hotel. — Rio  Grande. 

This  town  was  a  part  of  old  Laredo,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  before  Texas  was  separated  from  Mexico. 
Communication  has  always  been  made  by  ferries,  until  the 
recent  completion  of  the  railroad-bridge.  New  Laredo  will 
become  an  important  city  when  the  two  American  trunk- 
lines  are  finished.  The  Mexican  National  and  the  Mexican 
Southern  Eailway  Companies  have  recently  made  arrange- 
ments to  build  jointly  a  substantial  iron  bridge  across  the 
Bio  Grande,  to  replace  the  wooden  trestle-work  erected  by 
the  former  company.  The  new  bridge  will  be  used  by 
both  roads.  Leaving  Netv  Laredo,  the  train  passes  the 
station  of  Rio  Grande  (168  miles),  and  then  crosses  the 
river,  which  is  about  one  quarter  of  a  mile  wide.  The 
next  stop  is  at  Mexico  Junction  (169  miles).  The  track 
now  makes  a  long  bend  to  the  northwest,  and  reaches 
Laredo,  Texas  (172  miles).  Between  the  two  Laredos,  an 
express  agent  passes  through  the  cars,  and  checks  baggage 
to  any  part  of  the  latter  city.  He  also  sells  transfer  tickets 
to  the  depot  of  the  International  and  Great  Northern  Rail- 
road, which  runs  to  San  Antonio.  The  customs  inspector 
meets  the  train  on  arrival  at  the  station  of  Laredo,  and  ex- 
amines baggage  on  the  platform  without  causing  any  un- 
necessary delay  to  the  passengers.  There  is  a  dining-room 
adjoining  the  station,  owned  and  controlled  by  the  Mexican 
National  Eailway  Company. 

LAEEDO. 

Population,  12,000 ;  elevation,  438  feet  above  the  Gulf  at  Corpus  Christi. 
Hotels. —  Wilson  House,  Laredo  Hotel. 

Tickets  are  sold  at  Laredo  to  all  parts  of  the  United 
States.     The  distance  to  San  Antonio  is  153  miles,  and  the 


THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RAILWAY.         253 

time  is  9^  hours.  There  is  but  one  passenger-train  daily. 
The  tourist  can  go  eastward  from  San  Antonio  to  Hotis- 
ton  and  JVeiv  Orleans,  or  westward  toward  El  Paso  and 
California.     The  distance  from — 

Miles. 

Laredo  to  the  City  of  Mexico  is . .   8:^0 

Laredo  via  Houston  to  New  Orleans  is 720 

Laredo  to  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  via  Texarkana  is 1,084 

Laredo  to  New  York  via  St.  Louis  is 2,181 

Laredo  to  New  York  via  New  Orleans  is 2,398 

6.  From  Laeedo  to  Corpus  Christi,  distance  161  miles.     Time,  \1^  hours. 
Two  passenger-trains  daily.     Fare,  $4.83,  or  three  cents  a  mile. 


The  stations  between  Laredo  and  Corpus  Christi  are 

Miles. 

Laredo 0 

Mexico  Junction 3 


Pescadita 18 

Aguilares 30 

Los  Angeles 46 

Pena 61 

Realitos 75 


Miles. 

Sweden 85 

Benavides 91 

San  Diego 108 

Collins 121 

Banquete 136 

Rogers 149 

Corpus  Christi 161 


Corpus  Christi  (St.  James  Hotel)  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Texas-Mexican  Railway,  and  is  981  miles  from  the  City  of 
Mexico. 

The  mean  depth  of  water  at  high  tide  in  the  harbor  is 
13  feet,  but  a  recent  congressional  appropriation  has  led  to 
the  improvement  of  the  channel.  When  the  Mexican  Na- 
tional Railway  is  completed,  it  is  expected  that  merchan- 
dise will  be  shipped  from  Europe  and  from  the  Eastern  and 
Middle  States  to  Corpus  Christi,  and  be  sent  thence  by  rail 
direct  to  the  Mexican  capital.  In  this  respect,  the  line 
will  have  an  advantage  over  its  rival,  the  Mexican  Central. 

(For  additional  information  concerning  the  routes 
through  Texas,  see  Appletons'  General  Guide  to  the  Ujiited 
States. ) 


SECTION    V. 

The  Mexican  Central  Railway  (Ferrocarril  Central 
Mexicano). 

(Compare  with  the  chapter  on  railways.) 

Of  the  two  branches  of  this  road,  the  southern  or  prin- 
cipal one  will  be  described  first. 

Route  I. 
FROM  THE   CITY   OF  MEXICO  TO   ZACATECAS. 

1.  Mexico  to  Queretaro. 

2.  Queretaro  to  Guanajuato. 

3.  Guanajuato  to  Lagos. 

4.  Lagos  to  Guadalajara  and  San  Bias. 

5.  Lagos  to  Zacatecas. 

1.  From  Mexico  to  Queretaro,  246  kilometres,  or  152^  miles. 

Leaving  the  raih-oad-station  at  Biiena  Vista  (elevation, 
7,347  feet),  the  line  runs  northward  over  the  broad  valley 
of  Mexico.  The  first  station  is  Lecheria  (21  kilometres). 
The  track  of  the  Mexican  National  Eailway  runs  parallel 
with  this  road  for  several  miles.  The  grade  is  slightly  as- 
cending, Leclieria  being  7,38G  feet  above  the  sea-level,  or 
39  feet  above  the  City  of  Mexico.  The  snow-clad  peaks 
of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl  remain  in  full  view.  We 
now  stop  at  the  hamlets  of  Cuautitlan  (27  kilometres), 
Teoloyucan  (3G  kilometres),  and  Rueliuetoca  (47  kilometres). 

Both  of  these  American  railroad  companies  have  station- 


TEE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  255 

houses  at  these  three  places,  and  the  Mexican  National 
Railway  crosses  the  Mexican  Central  at  Hiiehuetoca. 

The  elevation  of  this  j^oint  is  7,533  feet  above  the  sea- 
level,  according  to  Humboldt,  or  about  140  feet  higher  than 
the  measurement  of  the  railway-engineers.  In  general,  it 
may  be  said  that  the  distinguished  German  traveler  and  sci- 
entist, in  taking  altitudes  with  his  barometer  throughout 
the  country,  computed  the  elevations  of  the  various  points 
at  somewhat  higher  figures  than  those  of  the  engineers  of 
the  several  railroads.  Wheat  and  maize  are  cultivated  in 
the  vicinity  of  Htiehr.etoca. 

This  village  is  famous  in  Mexican  liistory  as  being  the  scene  of  one  of 
the  greatest  hydraulic  operations  ever  undertaken  by  man.  Frequent  in- 
undations of  the  City  of  Mexico,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  sixteenth  century, 
convinced  the  Spaniards  that  the  system  of  dikes  was  insufficient  to  pro- 
tect the  capital.  It  was  decided  that  the  artificial  draining  of  the  Lakes  of 
Tczcnco,  Zumpango,  and  San  Cristobal,  would  be  necessary. 

Two  intelligent  men,  Obrcgon  and  Arciniega,  proposed  to  the  Govern- 
ment that  a  gallery  should  be  made  through  the  hills  of  Nochistongo,  to  the 
north-northwest  of  Huelmetoca.  This  spot  was  perhaps  the  lowest  in  the 
mountains  bounding  the  valley  of  Mexico  on  the  north.  In  160*7  the  Marquis 
de  Salinas,  then  viceroy,  employed  Enrico  Martinez  to  begin  the  stupendous 
work  of  building  a  tunnel  through  the  hills  to  drain  the  Mexican  lakes.  It 
received  the  name  of  the  Desague  (canal)  de  Huelmetoca.  Work  on  the 
famous  gallery  of  Nochistongo  was  commenced  on  November  28,  1607. 
The  viceroy,  in  the  presence  of  the  audicncia,  applied  the  first  pickaxe,  and 
15,000  Indians  were  given  employment.  After  eleven  months  of  continued 
labor,  during  which  many  hundreds  of  Indians  perished  from  severe  treat- 
ment, the  tunnel  {cl  socahon)  was  completed.  Its  length  was  more  than 
four  miles,  its  width  eleven  and  a  half  feet,  and  its  height  fourteen  feet. 

The  water  flowed  through  the  canal  for  the  first  time  on  September  17, 
1608.  In  the  following  December  the  viceroy  and  Archbishop  of  Mexico 
were  invited  by  Martinez  to  witness  it  running,  from  the  Lake  of  Zumpango 
and  the  Rio  de  Cuaulitlaii,  through  the  tunnel.  The  Viceroy  Salinas  is 
said  to  have  ridden  upward  of  a  mile  into  this  underground  passage. 

Scarcely  had  the  water  begun  to  flow  from  the  valley  of  Mexico  toward 
the  Atlantic  Ocean,  when  the  canal  was  found  to  be  too  small.  The  loose 
earth  surrounding  the  tunnel  began  to  crumble,  and  it  became  necessary  to 
support  the  roof,  which  was  composed  of  alternate  strata  of  marl  and  stiff 


256  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

clay.  At  first  wood  was  used,  but  afterward  masonry  was  deemed  prefer- 
able. The  water,  however,  gradually  undermined  the  lateral  walls,  and  de- 
posited a  large  quantity  of  earth  and  gravel  on  the  bottom  of  the  canal. 
Martinez  built  small  sluices  at  intervals  to  clear  the  passage,  to  obviate 
these  difficulties.  This  remedy,  however,  proved  insufficient,  and  the  gallery 
was  stopped  up  by  the  constant  falling  in  of  earth. 

From  1608  to  1614  various  schemes  for  enlarging  the  canal  were  dis- 
cussed. In  the  latter  year  tlie  court  of  Madrid,  wearied  out  by  the  disputes 
of  the  engineers,  sent  out  Adrian  Boot,  a  Dutchman  of  large  experience  in 
hydraulic  architecture.  He  was  in  favor  of  the  Indian  system,  and  advised 
the  construction  of  great  dikes  and  mounds  of  earth  around  the  capital. 
He  was  unable  to  bring  about  the  relinquishment  of  the  Nochistongo  Canal 
till  1623.  About  this  time  a  new  viceroy  (Guelves)  arrived,  who  scouted 
the  idea  that  the  City  of  Mexico  was  in  danger  of  floods. 

He  had  the  temerity  to  order  the  desague  to  be  closed,  and  to  make  the 
water  of  the  Lakes  of  Zumpango  and  San  Cristobal  return  to  the  Lake  of 
Tezcuco,  that  he  might  see  whether  the  peril  was,  in  fact,  as  great  as  it  had 
been  represented.  The  last  lake  soon  swelled  rapidly,  and  the  foolish  direc- 
tions to  the  engineer  Martinez  were  countermanded. 

The  latter  now  began  his  operations  anew,  and  continued  them  till  June 
20,  1629.  Heavy  rains  fell,  and  suddenly  the  capital  became  inundated  to 
the  height  of  a  metre  (3J  feet).  Martinez  was  committed  to  prison.  Con- 
trary to  every  expectation,  Mexico  remained  flooded  for  five  years,  from 
1629  to  1634!  During  this  interval  four  different  projects  were  presented 
and  discussed  by  the  Marquis  de  Ceralvo,  the  viceroy.  The  misery  of  the 
lower  classes  was  singularly  increased  while  the  inundation  lasted.  Trade 
was  at  a  stand,  many  houses  tumbled  down,  and  others  were  rendered  un- 
inhabitable. The  waters,  however,  in  1634,  receded,  the  ground  in  the 
valley  having  opened  on  account  of  violent  and  very  frequent  earthquakes. 

The  viceroy  now  set  the  engineer  Martinez  at  liberty.  He  was  ordered 
to  finish  the  desague,  by  enlarging  the  original  tunnel.  The  Government 
levied  particular  imposts  on  the  consumption  of  commodities  for  the  expense 
of  these  hydraulic  operations. 

In  163*7  the  Viceroy  Yillena  put  the  entire  work  in  charge  of  Father 
Luis  Flores,  of  the  Order  of  St.  Francis.  It  was  decided  to  abandon  the 
tunnel  (socabon),  to  remove  the  top  of  the  vault,  and  to  make  an  immense 
cut  through  the  mountain,  of  which  the  old  subterranean  passage  was  to  be 
merely  the  water-course. 

The  monks  of  St.  Francis  continued  to  letain  direction  of  this  work 
for  about  forty  years,  when  Martin  del  Soils,  a  lawyer,  obtained  from  the 
court  of  Madrid  the  administration  of  the  desague.     He  proved  to  be  in- 


258  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

competent  to  manage  such  a  gigantic  engineering  scheme,  and  the  passage 
Avas  stopped  up.  The  canal  had  been  opened  and  walled  in  a  few  years, 
but  it  required  two  centuries  to  complete  the  cut  in  a  loose  earth,  in  sec- 
tions of  from  262  to  328  feet  in  breadth,  and  from  131  to  164  feet  in  per- 
pendicular depth.  The  work  was  neglected  in  years  of  drought,  but  renewed 
with  extraordinary  energy  after  a  season  of  heavy  rains. 

In  1762  there  were  still  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  tunnel  of  Mar- 
tinez 6,356  feet  which  had  never  been  converted  into  an  open  trench  {tajo 
abierto).  At  length,  in  176*7,  the  Flemish  viceroy,  the  Marquis  de  Croix, 
undertook  to  finish  the  desague.  The  cut  was  enlarged,  but,  in  fact,  the 
great  canal  was  never  entirely  completed.  Millions  had  been  expended,  and 
the  Government,  hesitating  between  the  Indian  system  of  dikes  and  the 
modern  scheme  of  a  canal  and  open  cut  through  the  hill,  never  had  the 
courage  to  adhere  to  the  same  plan. 

The  gallery  was  allowed  to  be  choked  up,  because  a  wider  and  deeper 
one  was  required ;  and  the  cut  of  Nochistongo  was  not  to  be  finished,  while 
the  officials  were  disputing  about  the  project  of  the  canal  of  7'ezcuco,  which 
was  never  executed. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  the  entire  length  of  the  desague 
from  south  to  north  was  20,585  metres,  or  about  12|  miles.  This  is  reck- 
oning from  the  sluice  of  Vertideros,  about  2^  miles  south  of  Huehuetoca,  to 
El  Salto  del  Rio  de  Tula. 

For  farther  particulars  about  this  great  canal,  the  reader 
is  referred  to  Humboldt's  Political  Essay  on  the  Kingdom 
of  New  Spain,  Black's  translation,  vol.  ii,  pp.  75-112,  from 
which  the  above  abstract  is  taken.  Humboldt  also  discusses 
the  scheme  of  extending  the  canal  from  El  Salto  to  Tatn- 
pico,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  For  many  years  this  plan, 
although  never  undertaken,  was  considered  practicable  by 
the  Mexicans. 

It  may  be  remarked  that  a  canal  of  such  length  could 
be  used  for  irrigation  in  the  dry  season,  as  well  as  for  the 
transportation  of  merchandise  by  small  craft.  Of  course  a 
great  many  locks  would  be  necessary,  as  the  difference  of 
level  between  Huehuetoca  and  Tampico  is  7,400  feet.  The 
tourist  can  obtain  a  hasty  view  of  this  great  hydraulic  work 
from  the  car-window,  as  the  track  is  now  laid  through  the 
cut  {tajo)  of  Nochistongo.     But,  to  examine  the  desague 


TEE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  259 

properly,  a  stop  should  be  made  at  Hueliuetoca  or  El  Salto, 
where  a  horse  can  be  procured  for  the  short  journey.  The 
traveler  can  leave  Mexico  in  the  morning  by  either  road 
(/.  e.,  the  Mexican  Central  or  the  Mexican  National),  in- 
spect the  ancient  canal,  and  return  in  the  afternoon  train. 

Leaving  HueMietoca,  we  pass  Kilometer  (53  kilometres), 
and  the  next  station  is  El  Salto  (62  kilometres).  Here  the 
Mexican  National  Eailway  crosses  the  Mexican  Central 
again.*  (Elevation  of  El  Salto,  7,131  feet.)  Between  Hue- 
liuetoca and  El  Salto  the  road  runs  northwest,  but  from 
the  latter  station  to  San  jhitonio  the  general  course  of  the 
track  is  westerly. 

The  snow-clad  volcanoes  are  no  longer  visible  after  leav- 
ing Ticla  (80  kilometres)  {Hotel  Diligencias).  This  town 
was  once  the  great  Toltec  capital.  Kuins  are  found  on  the 
Hill  of  Treasure  (see  p.  48).  From  this  station,  having  an 
elevation  of  6,658  feet,  the  up-grade  becomes  quite  percep- 
tible for  a  few  miles.  Much  wheat  and  maize  grow  along 
the  line,  especially  in  the  river-bottoms. 

We  now  stop  at  San  Antonio  (93  kilometres  ;  elevation, 
7,216  feet).  Trees  of  nopal,  piru,  and  JiuisacM  are  abun- 
dant in  places  where  the  land  has  not  been  cultivated. 
The  general  direction  of  the  route  is  now  west-northwest. 
The  country  is  rolling,  and  good  for  stock-raising.  Pass- 
ing the  stations  of  Angeles  (112  kilometres).  Marques  (122 
kilometres),  Nojmla  (130  kilometres),  Dafiu  (138  kilome- 
tres), Polotitlan  (151  kilometres),  and  Cazadero  (161  kilome- 
tres), the  train  describes  a  long  curve,  and  reaches  San 
Juan  del  Rio  (191  kilometres).  The  highest  point  of  the 
railroad  is  just  east  of  Marques  station.  Here  the  altitude 
is  8,134  feet,  or  787  feet  above  the  capital.  Thence  the 
grade  is  downward  ioy^axdi  Polotitlan — elevation,  7, 534  feet, 
and  Sa7i  Juan  del  Rio — 6,300  feet. 

*  El  Salto  is  67'29  kilometres  from  Mexico,  via  the  Mexican  National 
Railway. 


260  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

This  latter  town  is  situated  in  a  broad  and  yery  fertile 
plain,  where  cereals  are  cultivated.  Some  of  the  best  agri- 
cultural land  in  the  Kepublic  lies  between  here  and  Leon. 
The  population  of  San  Juan  del  Rio  is  about  12,000,  and 
the  streets  are  wide  and  well  paved.  It  was  formerly  one 
of  the  largest  woolen  manufacturing  cities  in  the  country. 
The  train  stops  thirty  minutes  at  this  place  for  breakfast. 
The  restaurant  is  very  well  kept,  and  the  eastward  and 
westward  passenger-trains  usually  meet  here. 

Ahorcado  (216  kilometres)  is  the  next  station  ;  elevation, 
6,258  feet.  The  track  now  runs  slightly  downward  over  a 
productive  region,  passing  the  immense  cotton-mills  at  Her- 
cules, and  reaches  Queretaro  (246  kilometres). 

QUERETARO. 

Population,  38,000  in  1882;  elevation,  6,363  feet,  according  to  Hum- 
boldt, and  5,904  feet,  according  to  the  railroad-engineers. 

Hotels. — Diligencias,  Del  Ferrocari'il  Central,  Del  Aguila  Roja,  Ruiz, 
and  Hidalgo. 

Baths,  in  the  Calle  de  Locutorios. 

Post-Office,  in  the  same  street. 

Queretaro  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same  name, 
and  was  founded  by  the  Aztecs  about  the  middle  of  the 
fifteenth  century.  It  was  conquered  by  the  Spaniards, 
under  Fernando  de  Tapia,  a  lieutenant  of  Cortes,  in  1531. 
The  city  contains  many  fine  edifices,  several  public  squares, 
and  numerous  paved  streets.  It  has  a  temperate  climate, 
and  fruits,  flowers,  and  the  cereals  grow  abundantly  in  the 
environs.  The  water-supply  comes  from  a  neighboring 
mountain,  by  means  of  a  stone  aqueduct,  some  of  the 
arches  of  which  are  ninety  feet  high.  The  cost  of  this 
structure  was  $124,000,  the  greater  part  of  which  was  paid 
by  the  Marquis  de  Villar  del  Aguila,  to  whom  the  citizens 
have  erected  a  statue  on  one  of  the  plazas. 

Places  of  Interest. — 1.  The  Churches  of  San  Francisco,  or  the  Ca- 
thedral ;  San  Antonio,  San  Agustin,  Santo  Domingo,  Santa  Clara,  El  Car- 


THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  261 

»ien,  de  la  Cruz,  and  Sanla  Rosa.  Santa  Clara  is  the  finest  of  all,  and 
contains  exquisite  gilt  wooden  carvings.  A  convent  adjoins  it.  2.  The 
Hercules  cotton-mill.  3.  El  Cerro  de  las  Camjxxnas.  4.  The  Alameda, 
with  beautiful  groves  of  ash-trees. 

No  traveler  should  leave  the  country  without  visiting 
the  famous  Herciiles  mill.  The  railroad-track  runs  close 
to  it,  and  the  distance  by  carriage  from  Queretaro  is  about 
two  miles.  The  factory  was  begun  in  1840  by  Seilor  Rubio. 
The  cost  of  building  it,  together  with  the  ground,  was 
14,000,000.  It  is  a  sort  of  citadel.  Inclosed  by  a  high  wall, 
provided  with  port-holes,  occupying  several  acres,  and  giv- 
ing employment  to  1,400  operatives,  it  forms  a  manufactur- 
ing town  of  itself. 

The  Rubio  family  live  here,  and  their  ajDartments  ad- 
join a  beautiful  garden,  laid  out  with  artificial  ponds  and 
statues.  The  buildings  are  of  stone,  and  the  machinery 
has  been  imported  principally  from  England.  Both  steam 
and  water  power  are  used  in  the  factory,  and  it  has  one  of 
the  largest  overshot  wheels  in  the  world,  being  fifty  feet 
in  diameter.  The  ojieratives  are  all  Mexicans.  There  are, 
however,  half  a  dozen  Europeans  employed  as  foremen  and 
superintendents.  The  force  of  hands  is  kept  working  both 
day  and  night,  and  an  immense  number  of  yards  of  un- 
bleached cotton,  called  manta,  is  manufactured  annually. 
Sefiores  Rubio  have  a  small  ''army"  of  thirty-eight  sol- 
diers, who  are  provided  with  muskets  and  howitzers.  Thus 
far  the  owners  have  defended  their  property  successfully 
against  the  insurgents  during  several  revolutions.  The 
proprietors  say  that  there  has  been  but  one  strike  among 
the  operatives  during  the  last  twenty-five  years. 

Don  Cayetano  Rubio  is  the  present  manager  of  the  es- 
tablishment. He  went  to  Manchester,  England,  when  a 
lad,  and  learned  the  trade  of  cotton-spinning.  He  is  very 
polite  to  strangers,  and  sends  a  clerk  to  accompany  them 
through  the  factory.     The  Hercules  mill  suggests  much 


262  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

material  for  study  to  foreigners  who  are  reckoning  on  the 
future  of  manufactures  in  Mexico. 

The  Cerro  de  las  Camfcinas  is  the  hill  on  the  north  side 
of  which  the  unfortunate  Maximilian  was  shot.  During 
the  empire,  earthworks  were  built  on  this  eminence,  which 
rises  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  plain.  The  Liberal 
army,  under  General  Escobedo,  besieged  Queretaro  while 
Maximilian  was  in  command.  Through  the  treachery  of 
Colonel  Miguel  Lopez,  the  Emperor  was  taken  prisoner, 
and  his  forces  subsequently  surrendered  to  the  Liberals. 
Maximilian  was  tried  before  a  court-martial,  and  sentenced 
to  be  shot.  Persistent  efforts  were  made  to  save  his  life. 
The  Princess  Salm-Salm  is  said  to  have  ridden  to  San 
Luis  Potosi,  the  seat  of  the  Eepublican  Government,  160 
miles  distant,  and  begged  President  Juarez  to  pardon 
the  adventurer  from  Miramar.  The  Government  of  the 
United  States  was  appealed  to  in  vain.  None  of  the 
European  potentates  ventured  to  intercede,  and  Maximil- 
ian, together  with  his  comrades  in  arms.  Generals  Miramon 
and  Mejia,  was  shot  on  June  19,  1867.  His  body  was  sub- 
sequently taken  to  Vienna  for  interment. 

The  night  before  the  Emperor's  execution,  he  wrote  the 
following  letter  to  his  wife,  who  was  then  a  maniac,  confined 
in  one  of  the  palaces  of  her  father,  the  King  of  the  Belgians  : 

"  To  MT  BELOVED  CHARLOTTE  :  If  God  cver  permits  you  to  recover  and 
read  these  lines,  you  will  learn  the  cruelty  of  the  fate  which  has  not  ceased 
to  pursue  me  since  your  departure  for  Europe.  You  carried  with  you  my 
soul  and  my  happiness.  Why  did  I  not  listen  to  you  ?  So  many  events, 
alas !  so  many  unexpected  and  unmerited  catastrophes,  have  overwhelmed 
me,  that  I  have  no  more  hope  in  my  heart,  and  I  await  death  as  a  delivering 
angel.  I  die  without  agony.  I  shall  fall  with  glory,  like  a  soldier,  like  a 
conquered  king.  If  you  have  not  the  power  to  bear  so  much  suffering,  if 
God  soon  reunites  us,  I  shall  bless  the  divine  and  paternal  hand  which  has 
so  rudely  stricken  us.     Adieu !     Adieu !     Thy  poor  Max." 

A  diligence  runs  three  times  a  week  from  Queretaro  to 
San  Luis  Potosi,  the  distance  being  160  miles,  and  the  fare 


THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  263 

is  110.  The  road  is  rough,  and  two  days  are  required  for 
the  trip.  The  route  passes  through  two  towns  named  after 
heroes  of  the  War  of  Independence — San  Miguel  tie  Allende, 
a  well-built  city  of  about  20,000  inhabitants,  and  Dolores 
Hidalgo.  The  latter  was  the  parish  of  the  illustrious joafZre, 
Hidalgo,  and  it  was  here  that  he  sounded  the  key-note  for 
the  Independence  of  Mexico,  while  addressing  the  populace 
on  the  16th  of  September,  1810. 

2.  From  Queretaro  to  Gcanajuato,  160  kilometres,  or  100  miles. 

Leaving  Queretaro,  the  road  traverses  a  rich  agricultural 
plain  bounded  by  hills  of  moderate  extent.  The  track  runs 
nearly  due  west  to  Calera  (2G4  kilometres),  elevation,  5,904 
feet,  and  the  grade  is  now  slightly  downward.  Passing  the 
station  of  Apaseo  (278  kilometres),  we  reach  Celaya  (292 
kilometres),  where  the  elevation  is  5,800  feet.  At  the  latter 
point  the  main  line  of  the  Mexican  National  Railway  crosses 
the  track.  (For  a  description  of  this  route,  see  Section  IV, 
pp.  237-252.) 

Celaya  {Hotel  Cortazar)  lies  in  a  broad  plain.  The 
population  is  about  15,000.  The  town  is  noted  for  its 
churches.  Those  of  San  Francisco  and  El  Carmen  are 
worthy  of  a  visit.  Several  woolen-factories  are  found  here. 
There  are  also  factories  of  cotton  thread  at  the  town  of  Sdl- 
vatierra,  20  miles  distant. 

Celaya  is  destined,  when  the  American  trunk-lines  are 
completed,  to  become  a  place  of  some  importance. 

Leaving  this  station,  the  road  continues  in  a  westerly 
direction  with  a  gradual  descent  to  Guaje  (311  kilometres), 
and  thence  to  Salamanca  (333  kilometres).  The  latter 
place  has  an  altitude  of  5,680  feet,  and  a  population  of 
13,000.  It  is  celebrated  for  the  manufacture  of  leathern 
clothing  and  gloves.  Boys  bring  the  latter  into  the  cars 
for  sale.  There  are  also  rich  deposits  of  kaolin  and  white 
clay  here.     The  best  hotel  is  the  Cortazar.     At  Salamanca 


264  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

the  line  takes  a  northwesterly  direction,  and,  passing  the 
station  of  Cliico  (344  kilometres),  reaches  Irapuato  (353 
kilometres).  A  diligence  connects  at  the  latter  town  with 
La  Piedad  and  Barca,  and  thence  to  Lake  Chapala.  The 
population  of  Irapuato  is  about  12,000. 

The  track  now  ascends  in  approaching  Villalohos  (370 
kilometres),  and  the  next  station  is  Silao  (383  kilometres). 

SILAO. 

Population,  about  10,000  ;  elevation,  6,910  feet. 

Hotel. — Hidalc/o.  Also  an  excellent  restaurant  kept  by  a  Frenchman 
opposite  the  station. 

The  town  lies  in  a  district  where  two  crops  of  wheat  and 
maize  are  grown  annually.  Irrigation  is  necessary,  how- 
ever, and  the  water  is  commonly  raised  from  the  ditches 
by  a  rude  bucket-wheel  worked  by  man-power. 

The  wheat-harvest  is  thirty-five  and  forty  for  one,  and 
sometimes  even  as  high  as  fifty  or  sixty  to  one.  In  the 
farms  that  are  properly  irrigated,  the  wheat  is  twice  watered  : 
first,  when  the  young  plant  springs  up  in  the  month  of 
January  ;  and,  secondly,  in  the  beginning  of  March,  when 
the  ear  is  on  the  point  of  developing  itself.  Sometimes 
even  the  entire  field  is  inundated  before  sowing.  This 
method  resembles  the  mode  of  cultivation  of  the  cereals  in 
lower  Egypt.     (  Vide  p.  95.) 

A  branch  road  leads  to  Guanajuato,  23  kilometres  dis- 
tant. This  town  is  situated  in  the  low  range  of  mount- 
ains that  forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the  plain.  The 
intervening  region  has  an  undulating  surface,  and  very 
little  vegetation  except  the  nopal.  The  branch  track  runs 
northeasterly,  and  the  upward  grade  is  heavy.  It  was 
finished  in  November,  1882.  The  line  is  built  as  far  as 
Marfil  (18  kilometres).  At  this  station,  both  stage-coaches 
and  horse-cars  connect  with  Guanajuato,  5  kilometres  dis- 
tant.    The  fare  in  the  former  is  25  cents  for  each  passenger 


THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  265 

with  ordinary  baggage,  and  in  the  tramway  15  cents,  first 
class,  and  7  cents,  second  class.  The  railway  company  in- 
tends to  extend  its  track  to  Guanajuato  in  a  few  months. 

GUANAJUATO. 

Population,  56,112  ;  elevation,  6,836  feet,  according  to  Humboldt, 
Hotels. — Del  Suizo,  Bat/as,  and  Diligencias. 
Restaurants. — De  Bordeaux,  Frances. 

Guanajuato  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same  name, 
and  lies  in  latitude  21°  north,  and  longitude  1°  49'  west  of 
the  City  of  Mexico. 

The  city  was  founded  by  the  Spaniards  in  1554.  It  re- 
ceived the  royal  privilege  of  villa  (town)  in  1619,  and  that 
of  ciudacl  (city)  on  the  8th  of  December,  1741. 

Places  op  Interest. — 1.  The  Church  of  La  Parroquia.  2.  The  Mint. 
3.  The  Prison  {El  Carcel).  4.  The  Silver-mills  {haciendas  de  beneficios). 
5.  The  Silver-mines.     6.  Cerro  (hill)  de  San  Miguel.     1.  The  Paseo. 

In  1803  Humboldt  states  that  the  population  witJiin 
the  city  was  41,000,  and  in  the  adjacent  mines  of  Marjil, 
Santa  Ana,  Santa  Rosa,  Valenciana,  Mayas,  and  Mellado,  it 
was  29,600,  making  a  total  of  70,600,  of  whom  there  were 
4,500  Indians.  The  same  writer,  in  his  Political  Essay  on 
New  Spain,  vol.  iii,  p.  138,  ranks  Guanajuato  first  in  a 
list  of  the  richest  mining  districts  of  Mexico.  He  remarks 
also  that  the  vein  of  Guanajuato,  from  the  end  of  the 
sixteenth  century  to  the  year  1800,  produced /owr^eew  liun- 
dred  million  {1,^00,000,000)  francs  worth  of  silver,  besides 
some  gold.  (See  chapter  on  mines,  in  Part  First.)  This 
vein  is  familiarly  called  the  Veta  Madre,  and  the  mines  on  it 
began  to  be  worked  in  1558. 

For  several  years  past  these  mines  have  not  paid  well, 
and  it  is  believed  by  many  persons  that  their  mineral  wealth 
has  been  exhausted.  This  impression,  however,  is  not 
well  founded,  as  the  mines  have  in  only  two  instances 
{Ray as  and  Valenciana)  been  explored  to  a  depth  of  1,500 


266  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

feet.  It  is  highly  probable  that  rich  bodies  of  ore  will  be 
met  with  by  sinking  the  shafts  deeper. 

There  are  several  families  of  great  wealth  in  Guana- 
juato, whose  fortunes  have  been  acquired  in  silver-mining, 
Humboldt  states  that  the  Count  de  Valenciana  dug  three 
pits  in  one  mine  at  an  expense  of  $1,700,000.  The  pro- 
prietors of  these  mines  are  unwilling  to  sell  them  except 
at  a  large  profit,  as  this  class  of  real  estate  is  regarded  as  a 
good  investment. 

At  present  but  two  English  companies  own  mineral 
property  in  this  region.  One  of  them  has  an  agency  for 
the  examination  and  purchase  of  Mexican  mines.  Thus 
far  the  Americans  have  not  bought  mines  in  this  vicinity. 
Their  mineral  lands  are  mostly  in  the  northern  States  of 
the  Eepublic. 

The  traveler  will  have  no  better  chance  of  visiting  a 
mine  than  in  Guanajuato.  Accordingly,  he  is  advised  to 
descend  one  of  the  many  pits  in  the  suburbs.  The  Rayas  * 
and  Nopal  mines  are  both  dry  and  well  arranged.  A  car- 
riage may  be  driven  to  the  latter,  and  within  a  short  walk 
of  the  former.  Strangers  are  treated  with  great  civility, 
and  no  card  of  admission  is  necessary. 

The  tourist  will  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  cele- 
brated peons  at  work,  with  their  primitive  tools  and  meth- 
ods of  mining.  But  he  will  be  obliged  to  descend  and 
ascend  the  massive  stone  steps  to  reach  the  vein,  as  no 
"elevators"  have  thus  far  come  into  use.  A  fee  of  twenty- 
five  cents  will  be  sufficient  to  give  the  boy  who  accompanies 
the  traveler  through  the  mine.     (See  p.  81.) 

There  are  fifty  mills  for  crushing  and  reducing  silver- 
ores  in  Guanajtiato.  All  of  them  are  worked  by  horse- 
power, except  the  Pardo  mill,  which  is  operated  by  steam. 
This  mill  has  six  stamps  and  twenty-two  arrastras.     The 

*  The  Rayas  mine  has  three  shafts,  the  deepest  of  which  is  1,640  feet. 
In  April,  1883,  two  thousand  peons  were  employed. 


THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  267 

ore  is  brought  in  sacks  from  the  neighboring  mines  by  pack- 
mules,  and  it  is  worked  by  the  cold  amalgamation  or  patio 
process,  which  was  invented  in  1557  by  Bartolome  Medina, 
a  Mexican  miner.     A  description  of  it  may  be  of  interest : 

The  ore  is  first  put  in  the  mill  (molino),  which  is  a  circular  depression 
in  the  ground,  and  crushed  by  a  revolving  stone  wheel  covered  with  a  thick 
cast-iron  tire,  and  having  a  horizontal  axis.  The  wheel  is  moved  by  two 
mules  attached  to  a  long  shaft.  There  is  a  coarse  iron  sieve  in  the  center 
of  the  mill,  at  the  base  of  the  vertical  post  in  which  the  axle  of  the  wheel 
is  fastened.  As  the  ore  is  crushed,  a  peon  shovels  it  against  the  sieve,  and 
the  smaller  pieces  pass  through  an  opening  in  the  ground  surrounding  the 
post,  and  are  collected  in  a  vault  below.  The  small  particles  of  ore  are 
now  carried  in  litters  to  the  arrastras,  which  are  flat  stones  of  porphyry,  or 
some  other  hard  rock,  about  three  feet  long,  which  revolve  in  a  large  tub. 

The  tub  is  half  full  of  water,  and  the  arrastras  grind  the  fragments 
of  silver-ore  into  a  fine  powder  in  about  twenty-four  hours.  Mules  are  used 
to  give  a  rotary  motion  to  the  arrastras,  each  animal  working  six  hours. 
The  machinery  is  run  day  and  night.  The  next  step  is  the  conveyance  of 
the  pulverized  ore,  called  lama,  in  a  trough  (bafea)  to  thepafio  or  court-yard. 
The  patio  is  paved  with  large  flat  stones,  and  the  soft  lama  is  allowed  to 
accumulate  to  a  depth  of  about  two  feet.  This  muddy  mass  is  then  mixed 
with  magistral,*  or  blue  vitriol,  salt,  and  quicksilver,  by  scattering  these  sub- 
stances with  the  hand,  and  employing  mules  to  walk  about  in  the  toria,  as  it 
is  now  termed.  A  laborer  rolls  up  his  breeches  and  stands  in  the  torta, 
holding  the  reins  of  three  mules  harnessed  together,  and  drives  the  animals 
around  him,  changing  his  position  every  few  minutes,  in  order  to  impreg- 
nate the  powdered  ore  thoroughly  with  the  several  chemicals. 

The  mules  tramp  through  the  torta  for  seven  hours  daily,  and  the  time 
required  to  mix  the  mass  properly  varies  from  two  to  four  weeks,  accord- 
ing to  the  quality  of  the  ore. 

The  (orta  is  then  carried  in  litters  to  the  lavaderos,  or  large  cisterns, 
where  it  is  washed  and  stirred  by  means  of  revolving  sticks.  The  silvery 
mass  being  heavy,  of  course,  settles  at  the  bottom,  and  in  two  or  three 
days  the  muddy  water  is  drawn  off.  The  amalgam,  or  pella,  which  has 
been  formed,  is  now  taken  from  the  lavaderos  to  a  sort  of  oven  or  depres- 
sion in  the  ground,  covered  with  a  huge  metallic  hood  termed  a  capelli'na. 
A  fire  is  built  around  the  capellina,  and  the  mercury  is  separated  by  distil- 
lation in  about  four  days.  The  block  of  silver  which  remains  is  transported 
to  the  nearest  mint,  and  worked  into  coin  or  sold.     The  law  of  Mexico  com- 

*  Native  sulphide  of  iron  and  copper. 


268  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

pels  the  owners  of  haciendas  de  beneficios  to  send  their  silver  to  the  mint. 
If  the  owner  wishes  to  export  the  bullion,  he  must  first  obtain  a  certificate 
from  the  director  of  the  establishment. 

N.  B. — A  picture  of  Vae  patio  process  may  be  found  on  p.  198. 

The  2^eons  are  searched,  when  leaving  the  silver-works, 
at  the  end  of  the  day's  work,  as  fragments  of  the  precious 
metal  are  often  concealed  in  their  hair  and  clothing.  (See 
p.  81.) 

The  prison,  or  cared,  is  worthy  of  a  visit.  It  occupies 
an  eminence  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  near  the  causeway 
{calzada),  and  was  formerly  a  castle.  It  was  also  the  last 
stronghold  of  the  Spaniards  in  Guanajuato  during  the  great 
revolution.  The  castle  was  defended  with  fire-arms,  while 
the  Mexicans  had  merely  primitive  weapons,  such  as  clubs, 
knives,  missiles,  etc.  Finding  the  fortress  impregnable, 
the  latter  approached  the  gate  on  all-fours,  with  flat  stones 
on  their  backs  to  serve  as  armor,  and  set  fire  to  it.  The 
Spanish  oppressors  surrendered,  and  the  natives  decapitated 
four  of  the  leaders,  and  hung  their  heads  in  the  corners  of 
the  court-yard  of  the  castle. 

The  prison  is  a  two-storied  building,  about  150  feet  long 
and  75  feet  wide.     The  inmates  work  at  various  trades. 

The  traveler  should  ascend  the  Cerro  de  San  Miguel, 
which  lies  south  of  the  mint,  and  about  twenty  minutes' 
walk  from  the  plaza,  to  obtain  a  correct  idea  of  the  location 
of  Guanajuato.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  city  is  built  in 
a  gorge,  surrounded  by  rolling  hills.  The  narrow  streets 
are  winding,  and  they  have  a  cobble-stone  pavement.  The 
tourist  is  reminded  of  the  towns  in  the  Swiss  Alps.  Look- 
ing across  the  city,  the  observer  has  a  fine  view  of  the  prin- 
cipal suburbs,  the  mines  being  chiefly  on  the  northern  and 
western  sides  of  Guanajuato. 

There  are  some  foreigners  living  in  the  city.  They  are 
mostly  French,  although  a  few  Germans,  Spaniards,  Eng- 
lishmen, and  Americans  can  be  included  in  the  number. 


THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  2G9 

The  inhabitants  are  disposed  to  introduce  modern  inven- 
tions, such  as  the  electric  light  and  telephone.  A  New  York 
company  has  erected  seventy-five  telephones,  many  of  which 
connect  the  mines  with  the  houses  and  offices  of  the  owners. 

The  greater  part  of  the  pojiulation  of  Guanajuato  con- 
sists of  miners,  who  are  an  industrious  and  well-to-do  class 
of  people.  On  Sundays  they  dress  up  in  their  best  clothes, 
and  walk  on  \hQ,  plaza  and  paseo  with  their  families. 

The  tourist  can  spend  a  week  in  Guanajuato  to  advan- 
tage, during  which  an  excursion  may  be  made  to  Dolores 
Hidalgo,  about  35  miles  northeast  of  the  city.    (See  p.  263.) 

3.  From  Guanajuato  to  Lagos,  115  kilometres,  or  '72  miles. 

Leaving  Guanajuato,  the  stage-coach  sets  out  from  the 
door  of  the  hotel,  and  connects  with  the  train  at  Marfil,  5 
kilometres  distant.  The  track  has  a  downward  grade  nearly 
all  the  way  to  Silao,  18  kilometres  farther.  The  railroad 
company  has  erected  a  large  wooden  station  and  freight- 
house  at  the  latter  point.  This  branch  road  carries  large 
quantities  of  quicksilver,  salt,  and  magistral  to  Marfil  for 
the  silver-reducing  works.     (See  p.  267.) 

From  Silao  the  road  continues  in  a  northwest  course 
through  the  fertile  plain,  passing  the  station  of  Trinidad 
(402  kilometres),  and  reaches  Leon  (416  kilometres).  The 
grade  ascends  slightly  to  a  point  Just  west  of  Trinidad, 
having  an  altitude  of  5,963  feet,  and  then  descends  toward 
Leon. 

LEOisr. 

Population,  about  80,000  ;  elevation,  5,862  feet. 

HoTKLS. — Comercio,  de  la  Liiz,  Colon. 

Tramways  run  to  the  city,  H  mile  north  of  the  station;  fare,  10  cents 
for  each  passenger.  The  towers  of  the  cathedral  and  several  domes  of  the 
churches  are  visible  from  the  train. 

Leon  is  noted  for  its  manufactories  of  saddles  and 
leathern  goods,  and  a  quarry  of  building-stone  is  found  near 


270  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

the  town.  It  is  said  to  have  had  166,000  inhabitants  in 
1865.  The  residents  claim  that  their  city  is  second  to  the 
national  capital  in  ^jopnlation.  It  is,  however,  greatly  in- 
ferior to  Guadalajara  and  Puebla  in  mercantile  importance 
and  in  objects  of  interest.  There  is  very  little  wealth  in 
Leon.  The  city  lies  near  the  terminus  of  the  rich  cereal 
belt  of  the  table-land,  which  is  about  80  miles  long,  and 
from  21  to  26  miles  wide,  according  to  Humboldt. 

From  Leon  the  railroad  goes  northwesterly,  with  an 
ascending  grade  toward  Lagos.  Passing  the  stations  of 
Rincon  (431  kilometres),  Pedrito  (448  kilometres),  and 
Loma  (462  kilometres),  the  train  arrives  at  Lagos  (475  kilo- 
metres). This  city  is  13^  hours'  Journey  from  the  capi- 
tal. On  October  15,  1883,  trains  were  running  to  Encar- 
nacion,  41  miles  beyond  Lagos. 

LAGOS. 

Population,  10,000;  elevation,  6,153  feet. 

Hotel. — Diligencias. 

Stage-coaches  leave  Lagos  as  follows :  For  Guadalajara,  2  days  dis- 
tant; fare,  $14.  For  Zacafecas,  2  days  distant;  fare,  $10.  For  San  Luis 
Pofosi,  2  days  distant ;  fare,  $10.  A  special  diligence  for  San  Luis  Foiosi 
in  16  hours  ;  fare,  $12.50. 

4.  From  Lagos  to  Guadalajara  and  San  Blas. 

Guadalajara  lies  about  130  miles  west-southwest  of 
Lagos.  The  road  is  a  rough  one,  and  two  days  are  required 
for  the  trip.  The  Mexican  Central  Railway  Company  will 
extend  its  line  over  this  route  to  Guadalajara,  and  thence 
to  San  Bias.     (See  p.  272.) 

GUADALAJAKA. 

Population,  78,600  in  1879;  elevation,  5,052  feet. 

Hotels. — Nacional,  Hidalgo,  Diligencias,  and  Nuevo  Mimdo. 

The  city  is  situated  in  latitude  20°  41'  north,  and  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Rio  de  Santiago  (the  largest  river  in 


THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY. 


271 


Mexico  except  the  Rio  Grande).  It  is  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  Jalisco.  The  houses  are  well  built,  and  the  streets 
are  wide  and  laid  out  at  right  angles.  Some  travelers  con- 
sider Guadalajara  to  be  the  finest  city  in  the  Eepublic. 
Lying  far  in  the  interior,  and  remote  from  the  railway,  it 
has  not  been  affected  by  foreign  influence. 

Places  of  Interest. — 1.  The  Cathedral  and  Sagrario.  2.  The  Gov- 
ernment Palace.  3.  The  Bishop's  Palace.  4.  The  Mint.  5.  The  City  Hall. 
6.  The  Academy  of  Fine  Arts.     V.  The  Plaza  de  Armas.     8.  The  Alameda. 


Plaza  de  Armas,  Guadalajara. 


The  first  three  buildings  are  situated  on  the  Plaza  de 
Armas.  The  Cathedral  was  completed  in  1618,  and  is  one 
of  the  oldest  in  Mexico.  The  cupolas  of  both  towers  were 
destroyed  by  the  great  earthquake  of  May  31,  1818. 

The  city  can  boast  of  fourteen  public  squares,  a  univer- 
sity, and  an  academy  of  fine  arts — ^the  only  one  in  the  Ee- 
public except  that  of  San  Carlos  at  the  capital.  Much 
glazed  pottery  is  made  here ;  it  is  quite  ornamental,  and 


272  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

may  be  found  in  the  shops  at  the  City  of  Mexico.  There  are 
several  woolen  and  cotton  manufactories  in  Guadalajara. 

Opinions  are  divided  as  to  whether  this  city  or  Puebla 
should  rank  next  to  Mexico  in  wealth  and  commercial  im- 
portance. 

Guadalajara  lies  in  a  fertile  region.  The  cereals,  fruits, 
and  vegetables  grow  in  abundance.  Some  farms  are  said  to 
yield  as  much  as  forty  bushels  of  Indian  corn  to  the  acre. 

The  following  table  of  distances  will  be  found  useful ; 

From  Guadalajara  to  the  City  of  Mexico  via  Lagos 424  miles. 

"  "  Tepic 258  " 

"  "  SanBlas 300  " 

"  "  Colima 142  " 

"  "  Manzanillo 211  " 

"  "  Morelia 191  " 

*'  "  Aguascalientes 149  " 

An  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  Lake  of  Chapala, 
about  40  miles  distant.  This  lake  is  the  largest  in  Mexico, 
having  an  area  of  415  square  miles.  (See  p.  30.)  There 
are  several  islands  in  it,  on  one  of  which  ruins  have  been 
found.  A  small  American  steamboat  makes  a  tour  round 
the  lake  daily.  The  depth  of  Lake  Cliapala  has  not  yet 
been  ascertained. 

Diligences  run  from  Guadalajara  to  San  Bias,  300  miles 
distant,  via  the  villages  of  Amatitan,  Tequila,  Ixtlan,  Te- 
titan,  Zapotlan,  and  Tepic.  The  latter  place  is  a  manu- 
facturing town  of  20,000  inhabitants.  It  is  noted  for  pro- 
ducing a  fine  quality  of  cigars.  The  elevation  of  Tepic  is 
3,050  feet.  The  Mexican  Central  Railway  Company  will 
build  a  branch  line  from  Guadalajara  toward  San  Bias, 
which  will  run  parallel  to  the  stage  route,  or  nearly  so. 
It  is  expected  that  this  branch  will  be  finished  in  188G. 

San  Bias  has  a  population  of  3,500.  The  Pacific  Mail 
steamers  touch  at  this  port  once  a  month.  The  distance 
to  San  Francisco  is  1,519  miles,  and  the  fare  is  $85. 


THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL   RAILWAY. 


273 


The  climate  of 
8an  Bias  is  hot 
and  very  unhealthy. 
There  are  dense  for- 
ests of  tropical  fruit- 
trees  and  plants  in 
the  vicinity. 


5.  From  Lagos  to  Zaca- 
TECAs;  time,  2  days; 
distance,  141  miles  by 
stage-road. 

The  diligence  is 
run  every  day  from 
Lagos  northward. 
The  road  leads  over 
a  fertile  plain,  where 
the  cereals  are  raised. 
Soon    the    country 

becomes  rolling,  and  cultivation  decreases  in  going  toward 
Aguascalientes.  There  is  a  very  sparse  population  in  this 
region.  Passing  several  hamlets,  the  diligence  enters  the 
city  of  Aguascalientes,  58  miles  from  Lagos.     (See  p.  270.) 


Mahing  Tequila. 


AGUASCALIENTES. 

Population,  85,000  ;  elevation,  6,261  feet,  according  to  Burkart. 

Hotels. — Diligencias  and  Nacional, 

Baths  on  the  Alameda,  which  is  reached  by  horse-cars ;  hot  baths  at 
20  and  25  cents. 

Places  of  Interest. — The  Cathedral,  Plaza  de  Armas,  and  the  Pasco. 
The  latter  is  one  of  the  finest  parks  in  the  country.  The  main  line  of  the 
Mexican  Central  Railway  will  be  completed  to  the  city  during  the  current 
year,  and  the  branch  from  Tampico  to  San  Luis  Potosi  will  probably  be 
extended  to  this  point.     (  Vide  p.  238.) 

Leaving  Aguascalientes,  the  stage-road  traverses  a  flat 
country  that  is  barren  for  the  most  part.      Some  Indian 


274  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

corn  is  cultivated  along  the  route,  and  a  few  villages  are 
passed,  the  iirincij)al  one  being  Rincon  de  Roma.  The 
scenery  is  uninteresting,  and  the  road  is  good  and  com- 
paratively level. 

Some  interesting  ruins  of  Indian  architecture  are  found 
at  Quemada,  about  30  miles  southwest  of  Zacatecas,  and 
^^  miles  north  of  the  village  of  La  Quemada,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  7,406  feet  above  the  sea-level. 

The  remains  are  situated  on  a  rocky  eminence  that 
rises  abruptly  from  the  plain.  It  is  called  ^'El  Cerro  de 
los  Edificios.^'  The  summit  is  reached  by  a  causeway.  An 
area  of  six  acres  has  been  inclosed  by  a  broad  wall,  forming 
a  sort  of  citadel.  This  barrier  surrounds  a  quadrangle  340 
X  200  feet,  which  to  the  east  is  sheltered  by  a  strong  wall 
of  unhewn  stones,  eight  feet  in  thickness  and  eighteen  in 
height.  A  raised  terrace  of  twenty  feet  in  width  passes 
round  the  northern  and  eastern  sides  of  this  space,  and  on 
its  southeast  corner  is  yet  standing  a  round  pillar  of  rough 
stones  of  the  same  height  as  the  wall,  and  nineteen  feet  in 
circumference. 

There  are  vestiges  of  five  other  pillars  on  the  eastern, 
and  four  on  the  northern  terrace.  There  is  another  quad- 
rangle surrounded  by  perfect  walls  of  the  same  height  and 
thickness  as  the  former  one,  and  measuring  134  x  137  feet. 
This  space  contains  fourteen  columns  of  equal  dimensions 
with  that  of  the  adjacent  inclosure.  They  wei'e  made  of 
clay  mixed  with  straw. 

There  is  a  flat-topped  pyramid  of  hewn  stown  in  one  of 
the  quadrangles.  Two  small  pyramids  may  also  be  seen. 
One  chamber  has  an  irregular  structure  7x5  feet  near  the 
center.  It  was  probably  an  altar,  and  the  room  may  have 
been  used  as  the  Hall  of  Sacrifice  or  Assembly.  These 
ruins  are  probably  the  work  of  the  Aztecs. 

At  Guadalupe,  4  miles  from  Zacatecas,  the  land  rises 
rapidly.     The  former  town  is  seen  in  the  distance  several 


TEE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  275 


miles  before  it  is  reached.  It  contains  many  furnaces  and 
silver-mills,  in  which  the  ores  from  Zacatecas  are  worked. 
On  account  of  the  presence  of  sulphur,  the  ores  are  gener- 


276  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

ally  roasted  before  being  treated  in  the  crushing  and  re- 
ducing-mills. 

The  stage-coach  enters  a  caflon  at  Guadalupe,  and, 
traveling  up  a  heavy  grade,  the  old  mining  settlement  of 
Zacatecas  is  reached.  The  latter  place  is  83  miles  from 
Aguascalientes,  and  the  time  required  to  make  the  dis- 
tance is  13  hours. 

ZACATECAS. 

Population,  46,000,  including  Guadalupe;  elevation,  9,012  feet,*  accord- 
ing to  Burkart. 

Hotels. — Zacafecdno,  Del  Comercio,  Naciotial,  and  Del  Progreso. 
Baths,  in  the  Plaza  de  Armas.  ; 

Post-Office  in  the  Calls  de  la  Moneda. 
Horse-Caes  to  Guadalupe  (see  time-table). 

Zacatecas  is  one  of  the  oldest  mining  towns  in  Mexico. 
It  received  the  title  of  city  in  1585  from  Philip  II.  The 
streets  are  well  paved  and  somewhat  tortuous,  although 
not  as  much  so  as  in  Guanajuato.  The  city  is  not  behind 
the  age,  even  though  140  miles  from  a  railway  terminus, 
and  a  much  greater  distance  from  any  seaport.  The  elec- 
tric light  shines  on  the  plaza,  and  a  number  of  telephones 
are  in  use.  Zacatecas  lies  in  an  arid  and  mountainous 
region,  with  an  inclement  climate. 

Places  of  Interest. — 1 .  The  Cathedral ;  observe  carvings  on  the  f a9ade. 
2.  The  Palace.  3,  The  Mint.  4.  The  Bufa,  a  hill  north  of  the  city.  6. 
The  silver-mines. 

There  are  fourteen  churches  of  minor  importance  and  a 
Protestant  chapel.  Some  of  them  are  ornamented  with  ar- 
tistic gilt  wooden  carvings  and  old  paintings,  that  were 
transported  to  the  city  at  enormous  expense. 

The  tourist  should  ascend  the  Bufa,  about  500  feet 
above  the  plaza,  for  a  view  of  the  city  and  its  environs. 

There  is  a  small  chapel  on  the  summit,  known  as  the 

*  This  is  too  high  an  estimate ;  8,000  feet  would  be  more  correct. 


THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  277 

Capilla  de  la  Bufa.  It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  several 
kinds  of  igneous  rocks  occur  near  each  other  on  this  moun- 
tain. The  observer  will  see  that  the  city  is  built  in  a  valley, 
surrounded  by  rolling  hills,  which  contain  numerous  mines. 
He  stands  on  top  of  a  ridge  that  rises  from  the  great  table- 
land. To  the  westward  lies  the  spur  of  the  Sierra  Madre, 
which  extends  nearly  to  the  Pacific  coast.  There  are  many 
low  ridges  running  north  and  south,  that  are  situated  on 
the  eastern  and  northern  sides  of  the  Zacatecas  range.  The 
country  is  very  barren,  scarcely  a  particle  of  vegetation 
being  visible.  The  broad  plain  below  has  an  elevation  of 
about  7,000  feet,  and  there  are  nine  small  lakes  of  salt  and 
carbonate  of  soda  in  this  plain,  a  few  miles  from  Zacatecas. 
This  salt  is  transported  to  Guadalupe  for  use  in  the  silver- 
mills.  The  geological  formation  of  this  district  has  been 
compared  by  Humboldt  to  that  of  Switzerland. 

The  mines  next  demand  attention.  In  mineral  wealth 
Zacatecas  is  the  richest  State  in  Mexico.  The  district, 
however,  which  includes  the  city,  does  not  rank  first.  In 
1804  Humboldt  placed  Zacatecas  third  in  a  list  of  the 
principal  mining  towns. 

Guanajuato  ranks  first  and  Catorce  second  in  the  pro- 
duction of  the  precious  metals.  The  Veta  Grande,  or  great 
vein,  is  next  in  magnitude  to  the  Veta  Madre  of  Gruana- 
juato.  Its  average  width  is  about  25  feet,  and  in  a  few 
places  it  has  a  breadth  of  75  feet,  although  the  entire  mass 
is  not  metalliferous.  The  mines  of  Zacatecas  began  to 
be  worked  in  1548.  Up  to  the  year  1732  they  are  said 
to  have  produced  the  enormous  sum  of  $832,232,880,  on 
which  a  tax  of  $46,523,000  was  paid  to  the  Spanish  treas- 
ury. 

About  1728  the  mines  of  Zacatecas  yielded  $1,800,000 
annually,  which  was  then  estimated  as  one  fifth  of  all  the 
silver  coined  in  Mexico. 

During  the  War  of  Independence,  the  amount  of  pre- 


278  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

cious  metal  extracted  greatly  diminished  ;  and  at  the  pres- 
ent time  (1883)  these  mines  are  not  doing  well.  It  remains 
to  be  seen  whether  their  wealth  is  exhausted,  or  whether 
new  bodies  of  ore  will  yet  be  found  in  paying  quantities. 

There  are  a  dozen  mines  within  a  half-hour's  walk  of 
the  principal  hotels,  and  which  can  readily  be  visited.  It 
is  best  to  go  in  the  morning.  A  series  of  ladders  is  used 
in  most  of  them,  instead  of  the  massive  stone  steps  as  in 
Guanajuato.  The  largest  mine  is  the  San  Rafael,  and  the 
oldest  one  bears  the  name  of  the  famous  Cortes.  The  latter 
is  about  two  miles  north  of  the  city.  An  English  company 
owns  the  Clerigos  mine.  Two  other  mines  in  the  vicinity 
are  also  owned  by  Englishmen.  There  is  one  American 
company  in  Zacatecas,  called  the  Chicago  and  Mexican  Syn- 
dicate, that  controls  several  mines  in  this  district. 

Stage-coaches  run  from  Zacatecas  as  follows : 

To  Sa)i Luis Poiosi,  distance  156  miles;  fare,  $12.00. 

"   Jerez,                           "         40       "  "          1.50. 

"   Fresnillo,                     "         37       "  "          1.00. 

"   Burango,                     "       234       "  "        14.00. 

A  well-known  Mexican,  named  Sada,  has  run  a  line  of 
ambulances,  called  "the  money-train,"  from  Zacatecas  to 
Monterey  for  many  years.  Before  the  Mexican  National 
Eailway  was  built,  Sada  drove  his  wagons  as  far  as  the  fron- 
tier, at  Laredo.  The  time  required  to  reach  Monterey  is 
six  days  and  a  half,  and  the  fare  is  140,  including  board 
and  lodging  on  the  journey.  A  dozen  mounted  guards  ac- 
company the  train.  Bullion  and  silver  coin  are  carried 
chiefly,  although  packages  and  personal  baggage  will  also 
be  forwarded.  The  route  to  Monterey  traverses  an  arid 
and  barren  region,  having  a  gently  undulating  surface,  and 
very  little  vegetation,  except  the  various  species  of  cactus. 
The  road  goes  via  the  liacienda  de  Cedres  and  Saltillo. 

This  hacienda,  is  the  only  redeeming  feature  of  the  trip, 
and  it  is  one  of  the  largest  in  Northern  Mexico.    There  are 


THE  MEXICAN'  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  279 

some  silver-mines  on  it,  as  well  as  many  horses,  cattle,  and 
sheep. 

The  train  of  ambulances  starts  about  daybreak,  and 
travels  till  noon  ;  then  a  long  rest  is  taken,  after  which  the 
wagons  continue  the  journey  till  sundown.  Many  extra 
mules  follow  the  train,  and,  when  one  of  the  animals  grows 
tired,  a  change  is  at  once  made. 

The  Mexican  Central  Railway  will  probably  be  completed 
to  Zacatecas  in  Decamber,  1883,  and  will  then  be  extended 
toward  Durango  as  rapidly  as  possible. 

The  country  north  of  Zacatecas  does  not  present  any  obstacles  to  the 
construction  of  a  railroad.  The  grading  will  be  easy  all  the  way  to  the 
border.  The  plain  is  ajr.parciUly  level  for  hundreds  of  miles.  The  engi- 
neers report  that  the  maximum  grade  from  El  Paso  to  Fresnillo  will  be  six 
tenths  per  hundred  feet. 

Humboldt  has  stated  in  the  Cosmos,  vol.  v,  p.  380,  that  the  great  table- 
land from  Mexico  to  Santa  Fe,  a  difference  of  parallels  of  fully  16°  20' 
(equal  to  about  1,200  miles),  can  be  traversed  in  four-wheeled  carriages  with- 
out the  advantage  of  artificially  prepared  roads.  (Fi(/ep.  28.)  On  these 
facts  it  may  be  assumed  that  lack  of  capital  will  only  prevent  the  Mexican 
Central  Railway  Company  from  completing  its  line  at  an  early  day.  The 
railroad  will  pass  between  the  towns  of  Villa  de  Coz  and  Fresnillo.  There 
is  a  large  deposit  of  sulphate  of  soda  at  the  former,  and  rich  mines  of 
silver  are  found  at  the  latter,  the  principal  of  which  are  in  the  Cerro  del 
Proano.  The  district  of  Fresnillo  was  discovered  in  1569,  and  the  city  has 
a  population  of  15,000.     The  elevation  is  7,244  feet. 

From  this  point  the  line  will  run  nearly  due  north,  through  the  town 
of  Sombrerefe,  which  contains  mines  of  gold,  silver,  lead,  copper,  and  iron. 
Thence  the  road  will  pass  near  Durango,  where  the  famous  iron  mountain, 
the  Co'ro  del  Mercado,  is  found.  The  elevation  of  Durango  is  6,847  feet, 
according  to  Humboldt.  This  town  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same 
name,  and  lies  in  latitude  24°  2'  north.     It  has  a  population  of  27,119. 

An  American  mining  company  has  recently  been  organized  to  work  the 
iron  deposits  of  the  Cen-o  del  Mercado. 

Scorpions  (alacranes)  are  common  in  Durango.  They  are  often  found 
in  abandoned  mines.  As  their  sting  is  sometimes  fatal,  travelers  should 
be  careful  to  avoid  these  insects. 

Owing  to  the  formation  of  the  table-land,  the  grade  of  the  Mexican 
Central  Railway  will  be  slightly  downward  north  of  Durango. 


280  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

A  railroad  is  in  course  of  construction  from  Zacatecas  to  San  I/uis  Po- 
tosi.  The  concession  is  granted  to  the  Mexican  National  Railway  Company. 
The  intervening  region  is  arid  and  very  barren  for  the  most  part.  A  few 
cattle  and  sheep  are  raised  along  the  proposed  route,  and  the  country  is 
gently  rolling.  Ojo  Caliente,  about  25  miles  from  Zacatecas^  is  a  town  of 
some  importance.     It  has  a  good  hotel,  adjoining  a  fine  grove  of  trees. 

From  this  place  to  Las  Salinas  the  country  is  covered  with  nopal,  taza- 
hillo,  huisachi,  and  dagger-plant,  interspersed  with  a  little  mesquite. 

There  are  several  salt  lagoons  at  Xms  Salinas,  as  the  name  suggests,  and 
the  owner,  Senor  Erazos,  has  built  a  stately  residence,  which  is  surrounded 
by  a  stone  wall  and  a  deep  moat.  A  draw-bridge  across  the  moat  is  raised 
at  night,  reminding  the  traveler  of  the  baronial  castles  of  the  middle  ages. 

The  country  between  this  town  and  San  Luis  Potosi  is  rolling,  and  a 
portion  of  it  is  adapted  to  grazing.     Some  maguey  grows  along  the  route. 

(For  description  of  San  Luis  Potosi,  see  pp.  237-240.) 

Route  II. 

1.  Bl  Paso  to  CMliuahua. 

2.  ChihuaJiua  to  Jifnenez. 

1.  From  El  Paso  to  Chihuahua.     Distance,  225  miles ;  time,  14  hours. 
One  passenger-train  daily. 

EL  PASO,   TEXAS. 

Population,  3,000;  elevation,  3,600  feet. 
Hotels. — Central,  Windsor,  and  Pier  son  House. 

El  Paso  is  a  great  railway  center,  and  is  destined  to 
grow  rapidly  within  a  brief  period.  Eeal  estate  is  becoming 
higher  in  price,  and  the  rents  for  all  classes  of  buildings  are 
said  to  be  enormous.  There  is  a  union  depot  occupied  by 
the  Southern  Pacific  and  the  Missouri  Pacific  Railways. 
The  Atchison,  Topeha  afid  Santa  Fe  Eailroad  Company  has 
also  a  depot.  The  last-named  line  makes  connection  with 
the  Mexican  Central  Eailway,  and  it  is  the  most  desirable 
route  from  the  eastern  and  central  cities  of  the  United 
States  to  Mexico  in  the  summer  season,  which  will  hence- 
forth be  the  time  when  most  travelers  will  approach  Mexico 
by  land. 


THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY. 


281 


Leaving  El  Paso,  the  train  crosses  a  six-pile  bent  trestle- 
bridge  over  the  Rio  Grande"^  which  connects  this  town 
with  Paso  del  Norte.  An  iron  bridge  will  soon  take  the 
place  of  the  trestle-work.     There  is  besides  a  small-pile 


CJiurch  and  Plaza,  El  Paso. 

trestle-bridge,  owned  and  operated  by  the  horse-car  com- 
pany, which  is  also  used  as  a  highway  for  wagons  and  pe- 
destrians. 

The  population  of  Paso  del  Noete  is  about  7,000. 
{Hotel  Gallardo.) 

This  town  is  the  terminus  of  the  Mexican  Central  Eail- 

*  The  width  of  the  Rio  Grande  varies  from  300  to  600  feet  in  the 
vicinity  of  El  Paso. 


282 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


way,  although  the  company's  trains  are  run  across  the  river 
to  El  Paso. 

Leaving  Paso  del  Norte,  the  following  stations  are  passed : 


Distance 
FROM  Paso 
Del  Nokte. 


Miles. 

30 
'74 
96 
139 
164 
181 
192 
210 
224 


Stations. 


Paso  Del  Norte . 
Samalayuca . .  .  . 

San  Jose 

Ojo  Caliente. . . . 

Gallego 

Laguna 

Eucinillas 

Sauz 

Sacramento.. . .  . 
Chihuahua 


Elevations. 


Feet. 
3,600 
4,300 
3,950 
4,090 
5,360 

5,060 
5,168 

4,690 


The  country  between  Paso  del  Norte  and  Chihuahua  is 
well  adapted  to  grazing.  There  are  several  large  mining 
districts  on  either  side  of  the  line  of  the  railroad,  at  dis- 
tances varying  from  ten  to  a  hundred  miles.  The  mines 
are  chiefly  of  silver,  although  there  is  an  extensive  dej)osit 
of  iron-ore  near  Ojo  Caliente. 

About  100  miles  west  of  Samalayuca  lies  the  old  presidio 
or  military  post  of  Janos.  It  is  35  miles  north  of  the  ruined 
town  of  Casas  Grandes,  which  is  about  half  a  mile  distant 
from  the  modern  town  of  the  same  name. 

The  remains  lie  adjacent  to  a  fertile  valley  about  two 
miles  in  width. 

They  are  built  of  adobe,  and  are  called  the  "Casas  de 
MoQitezuma."  They  face  the  cardinal  points,  and  consist 
of  fallen  and  erect  walls.  The  latter  are  from  five  to  thirty 
feet  in  height.  The  edifices  resemble  the  Puehlo  dwellings 
of  Arizona  and  New  Mexico.  Fragments  of  pottery  have 
been  found  in  tliem.  The  original  buildings  are  supposed 
to  have  had  three  stories  and  a  roof,  with  stairs  outside, 
probably  of  wood. 

Passengers  on  the  Chihuahua  division  of  this  road  gen- 


284 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


erally  travel  either  in  the  first  or  second  class  cars,  the 
proportion  being  evenly  divided.  There  is  but  little  third- 
class  travel.  The  freight  carried  by  this  company  consists 
of  lumber,  coal,  machinery,  live-stock,  and  general  mer- 
chandise. Bullion  is  transported  in  considerable  quanti- 
ties by  Wells,  Fargo  and  Company's  Express. 


Casas  Grandes,  Chihuahua, 


CHIHUAHUA. 

Population,  17,500,  of  which  about  1,500  are  foreigners  ;    elevation, 
4,690  feet. 

Hotels. — American  and  National. 

Baths,  on  the  upper  Alameda. 

Telegraph  and  Post-Office,  on  the  main  plaza. 

Bankers,  Messrs  F.  MacManus  &  Sons. 

Cliiliualiua,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same  name, 
lies  on  a  broad  plain  at  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  in 
north  latitude  28°  35'  10". 

The  city  was  settled  toward  the  close  of  the  seventeenth 
century  by  some  adventurers,  for  the  purpose  of  working 
the  rich  silver-mines  in  the  vicinity.  In  1833  the  popu- 
lation was  10,600,  and  in  1853  it  was  12,000. 

Places  of  Interest. — 1.  The  Churches  of  La  Parrdquia  (or  Cathedral), 
Guadalupe,  and  San  Felipe.     2.  The  College  of  the  Jesuits,  in  the  rear  of 


TEE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.  285 

which  the  great  revolutionary  leaders  Hidalgo  and  Allende  were  beheaded. 
3,  The  Palace.  4.  The  Tribunal  of  Justice.  5.  The  Mint.  6.  The  Alhon- 
diga^  or  granary.     7.  The  Aqueduct  (6,068  yards  long). 

The  Cathedral,  or  parochial  church,  stands  on  the  plaza. 
It  is  built  of  cut  stone  of  a  very  light  color,  and  has  two 
towers  and  a  dome.  The  exterior  is  very  imposing.  The 
church  cost  $800,000.  It  was  erected  from  a  fund  raised 
by  levying  a  tax  of  one  real  on  every  mark  *  of  silver  ob- 
tained from  the  mines  of  Santa  Eulalia,  fifteen  miles  dis- 
tant. 

Fruit,  vegetables,  and  the  cereals  grow  in  the  environs 
of  the  city.  There  is  fine  grazing-land  in  Chihualma.  In 
1871  the  American  consul  reported  that  there  were  800,000 
sheep  and  250,000  cattle  in  the  State. 

The  climate  is  salubrious,  the  temperature  ranging  from 
16°  to  94°  Fahr.  May,  June,  and  July  are  the  warmest 
months,  but  the  nights  are  always  cool  and  pleasant  during 
this  season.  The  rains  begin  about  the  25th  of  June,  and 
last  till  the  middle  of  October. 

2.  From  Chihuahua  to  Jimenez,  146'3  miles. 

On  June  1,  1883,  this  section  of  the  road  was  finished, 
and  trains  began  to  run  about  August  1st. 

Leaving  CJiihuahua,  we  pass  through  a  grazing  coun- 
try for  about  50  miles,  when  the  valley  of  the  San  Pedro 
River  is  reached.  Maize,  wheat,  and  cotton  are  grown 
here.  Proceeding  southward,  we  enter  the  valley  of  the 
ConcJios  f  River,  near  the  station  of  Satifa  Rosalia. 

Much  wheat  and  Indian  com  are  produced  in  this 
vicinity,  the  chief  part  of  which  is  consumed  in  the  State 
of  Chihuahua  among  the  various  mining  towns.  Fifty 
miles  south  of  Santa  Rosalia  we  reach  the  valley  of  the 

*  Eight  dollars. 

f  This  river  flows  northerly  and  empties  into  the  Rio  Grande  near  the 
town  of  Presidio  del  X'orte. 


286 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


Aqueduct  and  Church  of  Santa  Bita,  Chihuahua. 


Florido  Eiver,  where  the  cereals  and  some  cotton  are  culti- 
vated. The  rich  mining  districts  of  Parral  and  Santa  Bar- 
iara  lie  about  50  miles  to  the  southwest.  We  soon  arrive 
at  Jimenez,  a  town  of  about  8,000  inhabitants,  which  is 
situated  near  the  Rio  Florido. 

The  stations  on  this  division  are  : 


Miles  from 
Chihnahua. 

Chihuahua 0*0 

Majmla 14"4 

Horcasitas 28*3 

Temporary  siding  No.  1 ZZ'1 

Bachimba 39'1 

Temporary  siding  No.  2 46'7 

Ortiz 54-2 

Las  Delicias SS'T 


Miles  from 
Chihuahuii. 

Saucillo 68"7 

Concho 78-4 

La  Cruz 911 

Santa  Rosalia lOl'O 

Bustamante 110"8 

Florido 122-'7 

La  Reforma 133-6 

Jimenez 146'3 


TEE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY. 


287 


On  October  15,  1883,  the  railway  was  in  operation  as 
far  as  Villa  Lerdo,  515  miles  south  of  Paso  del  Norte. 
The  stations  beyond  Jimenez  are  : 


Miles  from 
Chihuahua. 

Corralitos 167 

Zavalza 200 

Zaez 212 

Yei-mo 223 


Miles  from 
Chihuahua. 

Conejos 237 

Mapimi 266 

Villa  Lerdo 291 


The  elevation  of  Villa  Lerdo  is  3,900  feet.  It  lies  in 
the  so-called  ''laguua  country." 

The  maximum  grade  for  600  miles  south  of  El  Paso 
will  be  but  37  feet  to  the  mile.  ( Vide  p.  279.)  There  are 
only  two  important  bridges,  those  at  the  San  Pedro  and 
Conclios  Elvers,  which  are  built  of  iron,  with  spans  of  150 


""^^^^ 

^ 

iriiiS..=i^ 

--— _ 

s 

.^^. 

' 

- 

l^~ 

^ 

~-    - 

■ "  ;■ .  '.f' 

IHI 

^M 

li 

-- 

La  Punta  de  Sauz  Cienega. 


288  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

feet,  and  with  stone  piers.  Eaeli  bridge  is  1,000  feet  in 
length.  There  are  no  tunnels  on  the  line.  The  work  on 
the  railway  is  progressing  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  and  a  half 
per  day. 

It  is  expected  that  the  CliiJiuahua  division  will  connect 
with  the  southern  terminus  of  the  line  about  July  1,  1884. 
At  present  2,000  men  are  at  work  on  the  dlYision  between 
Paso  del  Norte  and  Durango. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  various  ranches  along  the 
line  of  the  railway,  as  far  as  the  present  terminus — viz., 
Villa  Lerdo : 

Samalayuca,  1,500  head  of  cattle  ;  San  Jose,  3,000  head  of  cattle ;  Cor- 
ralitos,  10,000  cattle  and  30,000  sheep;  Santa  Domingo,  3,000  head  of 
cattle;  Ojo  Caliente,  1,000  head  of  cattle;  Carmen,  3,000  head  of  cattle 
and  30,000  sheep;  Gallego,  3,000  head  of  cattle;  San  Lorenzo,  60,000 
sheep ;  Eneinillas,  5,000  head  of  cattle ;  Agua  Nueva,  4,000  cattle  and 
5,000  sheep ;  Torreon,  4,000  cattle  and  10,000  sheep ;  Sauz,  6,000  cattle ; 
Sacramento,  2,000  cattle;  Labor,  1,500  cattle;  Tabalopu,  farming,  and  1,000 
cattle;  Rancho  de  Avilos,  1,500  cattle;  Mapula,  5,000  cattle;  Rancho 
Viego,  5,000  cattle ;  Rachimba,  4,000  cattle  ;  Dolores,  farming ;  Saucillo, 
cotton  and  grain ;  Santa  Gertrudes,  7,000  cattle ;  San  Luis,  2,500  cattle ; 
La  Cruz,  farming ;  Santa  Rosalia,  hot  sulphur  springs,  cotton  and  grain ; 
Enremoda,  3,000  cattle ;  Jimenez,  farming ;  Corralles,  2,000  cattle ;  Gen- 
eral Grande,  not  stocked  ;  Cadena,  2,000  cattle  ;  San  Isidro,  2,000  cattle 
and  40,000  sheep ;  Membrea,  50,000  sheep  ;  Villa  Lerdo,  cotton,  grain,  and 
sugar-cane. 

We  may  add  that  the  completion  of  the  Mexican  Cen- 
tral Railway  will  give  a  great  impetus  to  the  development 
of  the  immense  mineral  wealth  of  ChihuaTiua,  which  con- 
tains so  many  mining  districts  that  an  elaborate  description 
of  them  would  require  a  volume.  The  following  is  a  list 
of  the  principal  mining  towns  in  the  State,  classified  ac- 
cording to  their  richness  :  Batopilas*  Parral,  Santa  Eu- 
lalia,  Jesus  Maria,  CusiJiuiriachic,  3£orelos,  Guadalupe  y 

*  Americans  have  invested  largely  in  the  gold-mines  of  Balopilas  and 
Par7-al. 


THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY. 


289 


Calvo,  Uriqui,  Umachic,   Coi'ralitos,  Zapuri,  Topago,  and 
Umapa. 

American  miners  have  been  introduced  to  some  extent 
in  several  of  the  above-named  districts,  and  Chinamen  are 
employed  by  an  English  mining  company  at  Pinos  Altos. 
Peon  labor  is,  however,  cheajDer  in  the  present  condition  of 
the  country.  It  is  highly  probable  that  European  miners 
will  emigrate  to  Mexico  within  a  few  years.  They  will 
receive  much  higher  wages  here  than  at  home,  and  the  cost 
of  living  will  always  be  comparatively  low. 


Chi/ricahui  Mountains. 


13 


SECTION    VI. 
The  International  and  Interoceanic  Railway. 


Scene  in  NortJiern  Mexico. 


\1 

(Compare    'with 
chapter   on    railroads.) 

The  full  name  of  this 
line  is  the  Mexican,  Orien- 
tal, Interoceanic,  and  In- 
ternational Railway,  although  it  is  generally  called  the 
International  and  Interoceanic  Eailway.  It  is  popularly 
known  as  "Jay  Gould's  road."  So  little  work  has  been 
done  thus  far  that  the  entire  region  which  lies  along  the 
route  can  only  be  visited  by  wagon  or  on  horseback. 

The  charter  was  granted  on  June  7,  1881.  In  May, 
1883,  this  railway  and  the  Mexican  Southern  Eailroad,  of 
which  General  U.  S.  Grant  is  president, -were  consolidated 
under  one  management.  The  two  roads  will  henceforth  be 
known  as  the  Mexican  Southern  Railroad. 


SECTION  VII. 

The  Mexican  Southern  Eailroad. 

(See  chapter  on  railroads.) 

The  original  concession  for  bnilding  the  Mexican  South- 
ern Railroad  was  granted  on  May  26,  1881. 

We  will  describe  the  route  of  the  former  International 
and  Interoceanic  Railway  before  sketching  the  line  of  the 
Mexican  Southern  proper. 

The  first-named  road  was  chartered  to  run  from  Neiv 
Laredo,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  a  dis- 
tance of  680  miles. 

The  following  is  a  condensed  itinerary  of  this  route  : 

A  station  has  been  erected  at  New  Laredo,  and  on  Sep- 
tember 1,  1883,  about  100  miles  of  road  had  been  graded, 
but  only  a  half-mile  of  track  had  been  completed. 

From  New  Laredo  the  route  follows  the  course  of  the 
Rio  Grande  to  Mier  via  Guerrero. 

Leaving  Mier,  the  road  goes  southward  to  China.  The 
company  has  the  option  of  constructing  a  branch  to  Mata- 
moros,  100  miles  distant  from  Mier.  There  are  wagon- 
roads  from  China  to  Monterey  (60  miles),  and  also  to 
Matamoros  (90  miles).  The  line  passes  to  the  eastward  of 
Teran  and  Linares,  running  almost  due  south  from  China 
to  Victoria,  270  miles  from  Neio  Laredo. 

There  is  not  much  cultivation  along  this  division  of  the 
railway  till  Victoria  is  reached.  Here  many  kinds  of  fruit 
and  sugar-cane,  as  well  as  wheat  and  Indian  corn,  are  grown. 
Victoria  lies  on  the  border  of  the  tierra  templada.     It  i§ 


292 


CITIES  AKD  ROUTES   OF  TRAVEL. 


the  capital  of  the  State  of  Tamaulipas,  and  has  a  popula- 
tion of  8,000.  The  best  hotel  is  the  Hidalgo.  This  town 
is  271  miles  from  San  Luis  Potosi  via  Tula. 

From  Victoria  the  line  will  have  a  southeasterly  direc- 
tion, and  it  will  cross  the  Rio  Pdnuco,  near  the  village  of 
Tanjuco,  about  45  miles  from  its  mouth.  A  good  wagon- 
road  goes  from  Victoria  to  Tancasneque,  on  the  Rio  Ta- 


Victoria  and  Tula  Pass. 


mesi.  A  small  steamer  runs  from  the  latter  place  down  the 
river  to  Tanipico.  The  scenery  along  this  route  is  beautiful. 
The  company  has  the  option  of  building  branch  roads 
to  the  port  of  Tampico  and  to  San  Luis  Potosi,  but  the 
Mexican  Central  Eailway  Company  is  pushing  the  comple- 
tion of  its  line  from  this  port  westward  to  San  Luis  Potosi, 
and  has  now  (October,  1883)  about  ninety  miles  of  track 


THE  MEXICAN'  SOUTHERN  RAILROAD.        293 

finished.  It  is  not  probable,  therefore,  that  the  Mexican 
Southern  will  compete  with  the  latter  company. 

Leaving  the  Pdnuco  Eiver,  the  route  will  be  southeast- 
erly toward  Tulancingo,  and  thence  southwestward  to  the 
City  of  Mexico. 

The  line  will  be  easy  to  construct  as  far  as  Victoria. 
South  of  this  station  it  will  extend  through  the  mountains 
on  the  eastern  edge  of  the  great  table-land,  and  will  require 
rather  heavy  grades  *  and  some  tunneling.  This  division 
will  traverse  the  Hiiasteca  country,  which  is  one  of  the 
richest  portions  of  the  Eepublic  both  in  agricultural  prod- 
ucts and  in  mineral  deposits. 

The  proximity  of  this  railway  to  the  seaboard  should 
also  be  considered.  This  company  has  the  choice  of  ex- 
tending branch  roads  to  Tiixpan  and  Vera  Cruz.  This 
scheme  Avould,  of  course,  be  a  formidable  opposition  line 
to  the  Mexican  Eailway  Company. 

Judging  from  the  topography  of  the  country,  the  new 
American  road  will  be  easier  to  construct  than  the  Mexican 
Eailway. 

The  southern  division  maybe  described  as  follows  : 

Leaving  the  City  of  Mexico,  the  Mexican  Southern 
Eailroad  will  run  parallel  with  the  Mexican  Eailway  (as, 
in  the  terms  of  the  charter,  it  is  not  allowed  to  cross  it)  to 
Irolo  (45  miles).  This  division  of  the  road  will  compete 
with  the  English  line  in  the  transportation  oi  pulque,  to  the 
capital.  It  is  said  that  the  Mexican  Eailway  Company 
makes  a  net  profit  of  $1,000  a  day  on  the  "pulque'^  train. 

From  Irolo  the  track  will  be  continued  over  a  level 
country  to  Puehla  (111  miles).  Thence  the  line  will  run 
southeasterly  to  Teliuacan  (183  miles).  A  tramway  leads 
from  this  station  to  Esperanza,  31  miles  distant.  ( Vide 
Section  II.) 

The  road  will  go  south  from  Teliuacan,  following  the 

*  Two-and-a-half  percent  grades. 


294: 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


course  of  the  Rio  Salado  for  several  leagues  to  Arenal, 
where  the  Salado  and  Cuicatlan  Rivers  unite  and  form  the 
Rio  Qtiiotepec. 

Arenal  is  237  miles  from  the  capital.  Three  bridges 
will  be  erected  in  the  vicinity.  A  branch  line  is  in  process 
of  construction  from  Anton  Lizardo,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 


Sceiie  in  Mexico. 


ico,  toward  Arenal,  via  Ama2M  and  Tuxtepec.  Anton  Li- 
zardo is  142  miles  from  Arenal  junction.  The  former  town 
is  the  only  good  port  on  the  Gulf  coast.  The  harbor  has 
recently  been  improved.  The  eastern  division  of  the  Mex- 
ican Southern  Railroad  will  be  extended  to  Vera  Cruz,  23 
miles  distant.  The  merchants  in  that  city  are  very  jealous 
of  this  railway.  They  foresee  that  it  will  eventually  divert 
the  foreign  commerce  to  Anton  Lizardo. 

But  little  artificial  grading  will  be  required  on  the  east- 
ern division,  and  the  heaviest  grade,  according  to  the  sur- 
veys, is  seventy-two  feet  to  the  mile. 


THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHERN  RAILROAD.        295 

From  Arenal  the  main  line  will  run  almost  due  south- 
ward along  the  Rio  Cuicatlan  through  a  well-timbered 
region  to  Sedas  (301  miles).  Thence  it  Avill  go  to  Oaxaca 
(350  miles). 

The  highest  point  of  the  route  is  5,500  feet  above  the 
sea-level. 

OAXACA. 

Population,  26,228  ;  elevation,  about  5,000  feet.* 
Hotels. — Nacional,  Be  la  Faz. 

The  city  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same  name, 
and  it  has  recently  received  the  surname  of  the  illustrious 
Juarez,  f  Senor  Busto,  the  well-known  statistician,  calls  it 
Oaxaca  cle  Juarez.  The  word  Oaxaca  was  formerly  spelled 
Guaxaca,  being  derived  from  the  Mexican  name  of  the  city 
and  valley  of  Huaxyacac  in  the  Tzapotec  country.  After 
the  Conquest,  Cortes  received  the  title  of  Marquis  of  the 
Valley  of  Oaxaca,  and  some  of  his  descendants  are  still 
living  in  this  State,  under  the  family  name  of  MonteUone. 

Places  of  Interest. — The  Cathedral  and  the  Palace. 

Sugar-cane,  maize,  wheat,  and  barley  grow  in  the  vicin- 
ity. 

The  ruined  palaces  of  Mitla  lie  about  25  miles  east  of 
Oaxaca.  These  ruins,  except  the  teocallis,  are  the  most 
accessible  in  Mexico.  They  are  described  in  Chapter  V  in 
Part  First. 

Leaving  the  city  of  Oaxaca,  the  railway  will  run  south- 
ward with  a  descending  grade  to  Amatlan,  Ejutla,  and 
Mialiuatlan.  The  latter  town  is  about  65  miles  distant 
from  Puerto  Angel,  the  principal  port  of  the  State.  The 
Pacific  Mail  steamers  touch  there.  It  is  also  about  420 
miles  distant  from  the  national  capital. 

From  Mialiuatlan  the  road  takes  an  easterly  course  over 

*  Estimated  by  the  author. 

f  Juarez  was  a  pure-blooded  Tzapotec  Indian  from  Oaxaca. 


296  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

a  rugged  country  to  the  town  of  Teliuantepec  (523  miles), 
which  is  only  ten  miles  from  La  Ventosa,  on  the  coast. 
The  Pacific  Mail  steamers  stop  at  the  adjoining  port  of 
Salina  Cruz.  This  place  has  a  good  harbor,  and  will  be- 
come the  terminus  of  the  projected  railway  across  the  isth- 
mus. The  Mexican  Southern  Kailroad  will  make  connec- 
tion with  the  Tehuantepec  Eailroad  at  the  station  of  that 
name.  The  former  road  will  be  extended  eastward  from 
the  town  of  Tehuantepec  (population,  12,000)  to  Tonald  on 
the  coast,     (See  Section  IX,) 

Tonald  lies  in  the  State  of  Chiapas,  and  the  steamers  of 
the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company  call  at  this  port  once 
a  month,  the  distances  to  San  Francisco  and  Panama  being 
2,204  miles  and  1,223  miles,  respectively. 

Leaving  Tonald,  the  main  line  bifurcates.  One  branch 
runs  northeasterly  to  Sa7i  Cristobal,  and  the  other  extends 
to  Tapachula,*  and  thence  will  probably  be  continued  to 
the  city  of  Guatemala. 

The  region  traversed  by  the  southern  division  of  the  main 
line  of  this  railway  lies  mostly  in  the  States  of  Vera  Cruz, 
Oaxaca,  and  Chiapas.  It  is  very  rich  in  mineral  deposits 
and  in  agricultural  products.  The  climate  is  salubrious, 
and  the  vegetation  is  luxuriant  along  the  greater  part  of 
the  route.  The  State  of  Oaxaca  contains  valuable  mines 
of  gold,  silver,  iron,  copper,  and  mercury.  The  cereals, 
brown  beans,  and  tobacco,  are  grown  in  abundance.  This 
State  is  also  noted  for  yielding  a  large  supply  of  cochineal. 
Petroleum  is  found  near  Puerto  Angel.  The  States  of 
Vera  Cruz  and  Chiapas  are  rich  in  coffee,  sugar-cane,  co- 
coa, tobacco,  indigo,  vanilla,  and  India-rubber.  We  may 
add  that  the  former  State  ranks  foremost  in  Mexico  in  the 
production  of  coffee  and  tobacco,  and  second  in  that  of 
sugar. 

*  Senor  M.  Romero,  the  Mexican  Minister  at  Washington,  has  resided 
for  many  years  at  Tapaclmla. 


THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHERN  RAILROAD. 


297 


Several  very  wealthy  and  influential  capitalists  are  stock- 
holders in  the  Mexican  Southern  Kailroad  Company.  It  is 
now  believed  that  the  main  line  will  be  completed  at  an 
early  day.  Senor  Matias  Romero,  in  an  article  on  Rail- 
ways in  Mexico,  published  in  the  International  Review 
for  November,  1882,  states  that  the  inhabitants  of  Oaxaca 
are  very  anxious  to  have  this  road  finished  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible ;  and  that  the  merchants  threaten  to  withdraw  their 
cajjital  from  the  State  if  the  construction  of  the  railway  is 
delayed  much  longer. 


SECTION    VIII. 

The  Morelos  Railway  (Ferrocarril  de  Morelos). 

(See  chapter  on  railroads. ) 

This  line  has  two  divisions — one  goes  to  Texcoco  and 
Irolo,  and  the  other  to  Cuautla.  Both  are  the  same  as  far 
as  Los  Reyes,  17  kilometres  from  the  capital. 

1.  From  Mexico  to  Cuautla  ;  distance,  138  kilometres,  or  85|  miles  ;  time, 
nine  hours.  Two  passenger-trains  daily.  Fares,  first  class,  $2.70 ;  sec- 
ond class,  $1.38. 

Leaving  the  station  of  San  Lazaro,  the  track  goes  east- 
erly past  the  Lake  of  Texcoco  to  Los  Reyes,  The  old  stage- 
road  lies  near  the  railroad,  and  runs  parallel  with  it  for 
several  miles.  The  railway  now  forks,  the  northeastern 
branch  being  built  to  Texcoco  (42  kilometres),  and  thence 
toward  Irolo. 

Texcoco  is  famous  in  the  history  of  old  Mexico,  or  Ana- 
liuac.  {Restaurante  Universo.)  It  was  the  chief  city  next 
to  Tenochtitlan.  Many  of  the  ancient  kings  lived  here, 
and  since  the  Conquest  it  has  become  an  important  place 
for  the  manufacture  of  woolen  and  cotton  goods.  The 
ruins  of  three  teocalUs  are  still  visible.  But  to  give  a  com- 
plete history  of  Texcoco,  with  its  relations  to  the  Aztecs, 
Toltecs,  and  their  predecessors,  would  require  a  volume,  so 
we  will  not  dwell  upon  it  here.  This  branch  extends  to 
Irolo,  in  the  midst  of  a  maguey  region,  and  is  to  some  de- 
gree an  oj^position  line  to  the  Mexican  Railway  in  the  trans- 
portation of  jmlque  to  the  capital.     It  is  worthy  of  remark 


THE  MORELOS  RAILWAY.  299 

that  trains  of  a  dozen  cars  on  the  former  road  are  often 
loaded  with  pulque  in  barrels  between  the  stations  of  Irolo 
and  Ifexico,  a  distance  of  77  kilometres.     (See  p.  293.) 

From  Los  Reyes  the  train  runs  eastward  to  Ayotla  (25 
kilometres).  It  then  turns  to  the  south,  and  skirts  the 
Lake  of  CJialco,  passing  the  stations  of  La  CompatLia  (35 
kilometres),  Tenango  (47  kilometres),  and,  after  ascending 
a  heavy  grade,  reaches  Amecameca  (58  kilometres). 

AMECAMECA. 

Population,  10,000;  elevation,  8,223  feet. 
Hotel. — At  the  railway-station,  and  meson,  on  the  plaza. 
Places  of  Interest. — 1.  The  volcano  of  Popocatepetl.     2.  The  Sac^'O- 
monie. 

No  tourist  visits  Amecameca  for  an}^  other  purpose  than 
to  ascend  the  great  volcano.  It  is  the  culminating  point  *  of 
North  America,  being  17,720  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The 
trip  to  the  summit  and  back  requires  two  days  ;  but,  if  the 
traveler  wishes  to  ride  and  walk  rajoidly,  and  possesses  ex- 
traordinary physical  powers,  a  day  and  a  half  will  be  suffi- 
cient. He  may  leave  the  capital  in  the  morning,  and  arrive 
at  the  ranch  of  Tlamacas,  on  the  ridge-line  between  Popo- 
catepetl and  Lztaccihuatl,  the  same  evening.  The  next  day 
the  great  volcano  may  be  ascended.  The  traveler  can  re- 
turn to  Amecameca  in  the  evening,  but  not  in  time  to  take 
the  afternoon  train,  unless  he  makes  fast  time  on  foot  and 
on  horseback. 

Before  setting  out,  it  will  be  advisable  to  obtain  per- 
mission to  sleep  at  the  cabin  of  Tlamacas  from  the  owner, 
General  Sanchez  Ochoa,  who  now  (1883)  resides  in  the  Hotel 
Iturbide,  at  the  capital.  If  the  tourist  fail  to  see  General 
Ochoa,  he  can  sleep  either  in  the  open  air  or  in  a  dilapidated 
building  at  the  ranch.    The  house  which  is  generally  used 

*  The  original  measurement  of  Mount  Saint  Elias — i.  e.,  19,000  feet — 
has  been  found  to  be  incorrect. 


300  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

is  a  framed  structure,  with  a  loose  board  floor,  and  is  not 
provided  with  beds  nor  mattresses.  There  are,  however, 
earthenware  pots,  a  few  plates,  and  glasses — all  of  which 
are,  of  course,  convenient  even  for  a  single  night. 

On  arrival  at  Amecameca,  the  traveler  should  lose  no 
time  in  engaging  horses  and  guides,  and  he  must  also  pro- 
vide himself  with  blankets,  provisions,  and  an  alpenstock. 
Seuor  Francisco  Noriega,  who  keeps  a  large  store  on  the 
north  side  of  the  plaza,  will  assist  the  stranger  in  procuring 
tlie  wherewithal  for  the  trip.  An  extra  servant,  or  mozOy 
should  accompany  the  party,  to  take  charge  of  the  horses 
during  the  ascent  of  the  volcano.  One  guide  to  each  trav- 
eler will  be  necessary,  and  it  is  unadvisable  for  a  party  of 
three  or  four  persons  to  climb  the  peak  with  a  single  one. 
The  cost  of  each  guide  will  be  five  dollars,  and  of  a  mozo 
three  dollars.     Horses  can  be  hired  for  a  dollar  a  day. 

Having  made  the  necessary  preparations,  the  tourist 
will  take  the  road  leading  out  of  the  southeastern  corner  of 
the  town,  and  travel  nearly  due  east  toward  the  Sierra. 
Fine  wheat-fields  are  passed  on  the  way,  and  the  soil  is  well 
watered  by  the  melting  snow  of  the  great  volcano.  The 
path  soon  rises,  and  enters  a  magnificent  forest — a  rare 
feature  in  the  scenery  of  the  table-land — where  lofty  pines, 
spruces,  and  firs  abound.  Proceeding  farther,  the  trail 
from  Puehla  soon  joins  the  main  path  from  Amecameca. 
We  now  reach  a  growth  of  thick  grass,  and,  after  crossing 
the  crest-line  of  the  ridge  and  descending  the  eastern  slope 
for  about  three  hundred  yards,  the  ranch  of  Tlamacas  lies 
before  us.  The  distance  from  Amecameca  is  about  twelve 
miles. 

In  starting  out  for  the  summit  of  Popocatepetl,  the 
tourist  is  advised  to  leave  the  cabin  by  4  a.  m.,  if  possible. 
A  horse  may  be  ridden  to  the  edge  of  the  snow-line,  about 
half  a  mile  distant.  The  ankles  should  be  protected  with 
stout  gaiters  or  pieces  of  flannel,  and  the  boots  should  be 


TEE  MORELOS  RAILWAY.  301 

well  greased,  with  a  view  to  keeping  the  feet  as  dry  as  pos- 
sible. The  guides  will  generally  attend  to  the  needs  of  the 
tourist,  and  will  carry  an  extra  wrap  or  cloak,  together  with 
wine  and  jDrovisions,  on  their  backs. 

The  lower  part  of  the  peak  of  the  volcano  has  a  slope 
of  about  twenty  degrees,  while  the  angle  increases  in  ascend- 
ing until  it  reaches  about  forty-five  degrees  just  below  the 
summit. 

Travelers  should  keep  their  alpenstocks  on  the  upper 
side  of  the  incline  while  ascending  the  peak  ;  and,  in  case 
of  a  slip,  the  weight  of  the  body  must  be  immediately 
thrown  on  the  alpenstock.  Tourists  are  not  tied  together  by 
a  rope,  as  in  Switzerland.  The  air  is  so  rarefied  that  one 
is  compelled  to  walk  very  slowly.  During  the  latter  part 
of  the  ascent  it  is  difficult  to  make  more  than  two  hundred 
yards  in  an  hour.  In  general,  six  hours  will  be  required  to 
reach  the  top  of  the  peak  from  Tlamacas.  The  uj)per  part 
of  it  is  covered  with  ice,  and  is  practically  a  glacier,  having 
a  very  uneven  surface. 

The  crater  is  not  visible  until  one  arrives  at  the  edge. 
A  rough  estimate  of  its  dimensions  would  give  the  diameter 
at  500  yards,  and  the  depth  at  150  yards.  There  are  sev- 
eral fnmaroles  in  the  crater  from  which  sulphurous-acid 
gas  is  emitted,  and  a  small  pond  is  to  be  found  at  the  bot- 
tom. According  to  the  author's  thermometer,  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air  on  the  summit,  at  ten  o'clock  a.  m.,  was  32° 
Fahr.  Clouds  usually  envelop  the  peak  of  Popocatepetl 
after  ten  o'clock  in  the  forenoon,  and  the  tourist  should  en- 
deavor to  reach  the  summit  by  that  hour. 

We  have  not  space  to  describe  the  view,  which  is  so  ex- 
tensive that  a  region  of  about  100,000  square  miles  in  area 
is  visible.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  (150 
miles  distant)  may  be  seen  on  a  clear  day.  On  account  of 
the  highly  rarefied  atmosphere,  not  longer  than  one  hour 
should  be  passed  on  the  summit. 


302 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


The  descent  may  be  made  in  one  hour  and  a  half.  If 
the  snow  be  tolerably  soft,  the  tourist  can  sit  on  a  petate, 
or  piece  of  matting,  with  the  guide,  and  slide  down  the 
slope.  A  roj)e  is  attached  to  the  front  part  of  the  petate, 
which  is  held  by  the  seiior,  and  the  guide,  who  is  seated 
behind,  steers  with  his  ali^enstock.  The  oi^eration  is  simi- 
lar to  coasting. 

Should  the  stranger  fail  to  ascend  the  mountain  the 
first  time,  he  can  spend  two  nights  at  the  ranch  of  Tlama- 
cas,  and  make  a  second  attempt  on  the  following  day.    The 


Acaj)ulco. 

sooner  the  lungs  become  accustomed  to  the  atmosphere  at 
this  great  elevation  the  easier  it  will  be  to  climb  the  peak. 
It  is  hardly  necessary  to  add  that  the  ascent  of  Popocatepetl 
is  well  worth  the  trouble  and  expense  which  it  involves. 

A  visit  to  the  Sacromonte,  one  of  the  most  famous 
shrines  in  Mexico,  will  be  found  interesting.  This  mount- 
ain lies  on  the  western  side  of  the  town  of  Amecameca,  and 


THE  MORELOS  RAILWAY.  303 

rises  about  300  feet  above  the  plain.  A  paved  patliway 
leads  to  a  chapel  on  the  summit.  There  are  fourteen  "sta- 
tions," each  having  a  cross  and  inscription  in  Spanish,  along 
this  path.  Many  ex  votos  are  seen  at  the  door  of  the  chapel. 
Some  of  them  are  in  the  form  of  oil-paintings,  while  others 
consist  of  silver  arms  and  legs,  which  are  hung  in  a  glass 
case.  An  image  of  Nuestro  Senor  de  Sacromonte  is  placed 
on  the  high  altar.  The  saint  wears  a  gold-embroidered 
cloak  of  velvet.  Eibbons  of  various  colors,  giving  the  size 
of  the  head  of  Our  Lord  of  the  Sacred  Mountain,  are  sold 
at  the  entrance  and  also  at  the  foot  of  the  pathway.  The 
hill  is  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  cedars. 

Leaving  Amecameca,  the  railway  runs  almost  due  south 
past  the  stations  of  Ozumba  (70  kilometres),  NejJantla  (95 
kilometres),  Yecapixtla  (111  kilometres),  and  reaches  Cu- 
aiitla  (138  kilometres).  The  chief  object  of  interest  on 
the  road  is  the  bridge  at  Ozumha,  which  is  G18  feet  long 
and  41  feet  high. 

Cuautla,  the  principal  city  of  the  State  of  3foreIos,  has 
a  population  of  about  14,000.  The  name  is  derived  from 
Quauhtli — i.  e.,  delightful  hills — a  term  given  to  the  town 
by  its  founders,  the  Tlahuicos.  It  was  conquered  by  the 
Spaniards  in  1521,  and  was  created  a  city  in  1829.  The 
objects  of  interest  are  the  parochial  church.  City  Hall, 
and  Alameda. 

2.  From  Cuautla  to  Acapulco,  about  200  miles. 

The  railway  will  be  extended  from  Cuautla  to  Cuerna- 
vaca,  and  thence  to  Acapulco  via  CMlpancingo.  Cuerna- 
vaca  is  described  m  Section  III.  From  a  point  about  25 
miles  south  of  this  town,  the  line  will  run  entirely  within 
Guerrero,  a  State  that  possesses  immense  mineral  wealth, 
which  IS  almost  totally  undeveloped.  All  tropical  fruits,  and 
corn,  beans,  peas,  cotton,  and  sugar-cane,  are  grown  in  this 
State.     There  is  also  a  great  variety  of  timber  in  Guerrero. 


304 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


The  region  lying  along  the  proposed  line  of  railroad  does 
not  possess  many  places  of  interest  to  the  traveler.  Chil- 
2Jancingo,  the  caj)ital  of  tlie  State,  is  celebrated  in  history 
as  the  town  where  the  first  Mexican  Congress  assembled, 
on  September  13,  1813,  after  the  cry  for  independence  had 
been  raised  by  Hidalgo.  This  town  has  a  population  of 
3,800  inhabitants.  (For  description  of  Acapulco,  see  Sec- 
tion IV,  p.  236.) 

It  is  said  that  the  Morelos  narrow-gauge  road  will  be 
built  to  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz,  via  Perote  and  Jalapa,  at 
some  future  time.  We  are  of  the  opinion  that  this  part 
of  the  line  will  not  be  completed  for  several  years. 


Tree-Fern. 


SECTION     IX, 
The  Tehuantepec  Railroad. 

(Compare  with  chapter  on  railroads.) 

During  the  last  fifty  years  plans  for  establishing  a  com- 
munication between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans  via 
the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  have  been  discussed.  The 
Mexican  Government  in  1841  granted  a  concession  to  Don 
Jose  de  Ga'ray  to  make  a  connection  between  the  two 
oceans,  provided  that  the  grantee  should  make  a  survey,  at 
his  own  expense,  of  the  ground  and  the  direction  which  the 
route  should  follow,  and  also  of  the  ports  which  might  be 
deemed  most  convenient  from  their  proximity.  A  survey 
was  duly  made,  and  reports  were  published.  But  the  route 
was  not  necessarily  to  be  a  canal,  although  Senor  Moro,  the 
engineer,  based  his  operations  upon  this  assumption. 

Soon  after  the  termination  of  the  war  with  the  United 
States,  the  franchise  of  Seflor  de  Garay  became  the  proi)erty 
of  Mr.  P.  A.  Hargous,  of  New  York,  who,  in  connection  with 
a  company  organized  in  New  Orleans,  assumed  the  rights 
and  responsibilities  of  the  Garay  grant.  After  negotiations 
with  the  Mexican  Government  and  unavoidable  delays,  it 
was  agreed  that  a  railroad  would  be  more  practicable  than 
a  canal.  Accordingly,  a  survey  for  a  railway  across  the 
isthmus  was  made  in  1851,  under  the  direction  of  the  late 
General  J.  G.  Barnard,  of  the  United  States  Army,  who 
was  detailed  for  that  purpose.  The  surveys  demonstrated 
that  a  railway  would  be  feasible  at  a  moderate  expense  ; 
that  the  grades  did  not  exceed  GO  feet  per  mile,  except  at 


306  CITIES  AXD  ROUTES   OF  TRAVEL. 

the  Chivela  Pass,  where  they  were  IIG  feet  per  mile  for  the 
distance  of  eight  miles  ;  and  that  the  summit  was  720  feet 
above  the  sea-level. 

In  1857  the  railroad  project  was  resumed,  and  a  new 
survey  was  executed  under  the  direction  of  Colonel  W.  II. 
Sidell,  of  the  United  States  Army.  Owing  to  various 
reasons,  this  line  was  never  constructed. 

In  1870  the  Tehuantepec  Railway  Company  was  formed 
in  New  York.  Mr.  Simon  Stevens  became  its  president, 
with  the  late  Hon,  Marshall  0»  Roberts  as  promoter.  New 
surveys  and  explorations  were  made,  but  the  road  was  not 
built  under  this  administration.  Upon  a  reorganization  of 
the  company,  with  Mr.  Edward  Larned,  of  Pittsfield,  Mass., 
as  president,  and  under  a  charter  from  the  State  of  Massa- 
chusetts, a  modified  concession  was  obtained  from  the  Mex- 
ican Government  on  June  2,  1879,  to  build  the  Tehuan- 
tepec Railroad,  A  subsidy  of  17,500  per  kilometre  was 
included  in  the  concession.  The  track  was  not  to  exceed 
300  kilometres  (186  miles)  in  length. 

The  Tehuantepec  Railroad  was  not  finished  by  the  above- 
mentioned  company.  It  is  said  that  not  more  than  forty 
kilometres  were  constructed  by  this  foreign  corporation. 

In  1882  the  Mexican  Government  made  a  contract  Avith 
private  individuals  for  the  completion  of  the  Tehuantepec 
line;  and  in  January,  1883,  the  track  was  finished  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Ooatzacoalcox  *  River  to  Minatitlan,  a 
distance  of  25  miles.  The  route  of  the  projected  railway 
is  about  170  miles  in  length.  The  work  of  construction 
from  Minatitlan  to  the  port  of  Salina  Cruz  is  now  be- 
ing pushed  vigorously  by  the  Government.  It  is  believed 
that  the  road  will  be  finished  and  opened  for  traffic  in 
1885. 

The  line  runs  due  north  and  south,  and  it  will  traverse 
the  southern  ])ortions  of  the  States  of   Vera  Cruz  and  Oa- 

*  Also  spelled  Coiitzacoalco&. 


THE  TEHUANTEPEC  RAILROAD.  307 

xaca.  The  adjacent  country  may  be  concisely  described  as 
follows  : 

The  dei^tli  of  water  at  low  tide  is  thirteen  feet  on  the 
bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Goatzacoalcos  River,  which  is  navi- 
gable for  a  distance  of  30  miles.  Placer  gold-deposits  are 
said  to  exist  in  the  interior  of  the  isthmus,  although  the 
country  has  not  yet  been  geologically  explored.  Large  beds 
of  asphalt  also  occur.  The  vegetable  productions  of  this 
region  are  indigo,  tobacco,  sugar-cane,  cocoa,  cotton,  coffee, 
Indian  corn,  vanilla,  sarsaparilla,  ginger,  and  India-rubber. 

The  terminus  of  the  road  will  be  at  Salina  Cruz,  three 
miles  west  of  La  Ventosa,  on  the  Pacific  coast,  which  is 
considered  a  safe  harbor.  It  is  said  that  work  on  the  west- 
ern section  of  this  railway  has  begun.  Winter  is  the  best 
season  for  visiting  the  isthmus,  as  the  summers  are  very 
hot  and  a  great  variety  of  insects  abound.  Some  of  them 
are  poisonous,  and  the  tourist  should  exercise  extreme  cau- 
tion to  avoid  being  bitten  while  traveling  through  the  jungle 
or  in  camping  out. 

Humboldt,  in  his  Political  Essay  on  Neio  Spain,  has 
referred  to  the  possibility  of  making  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuan- 
tepec  an  avenue  of  travel  at  some  future  day.  He  gives 
the  width  of  the  isthmus  at  118  miles.  The  connections 
of  the  Teliuantepec  Eailroad  with  the  Mexican  Southern 
Eailroad  are  mentioned  in  Section  VII. 

Captain  J.  B.  Eads  has  recently  visited  England,  to  procure  capital  to 
build  the  Tchuantepec  Ship-Railway. 

The  advantages  to  commerce  of  a  means  of  communication  across  the 
isthmus  (either  by  land  or  water)  can  hardly  be  overestimated.  This  route 
lies  between  latitude  16°  and  18°,  and,  unlike  the  malarious  climate  of  Pa- 
nama, the  region  is  comparatively  healthy  all  the  year  round.  While  the 
commerce  between  Europe  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  will  be  carried  on  via  the 
Isthmus  of  Panama  for  many  years,  the  greater  part  of  the  trade  between 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  coasts  of  the  United  States  must  needs  be  con- 
ducted across  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  as  soon  as  the  railway  is  finished. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  the  latter  route  will  soon  become  a 


308 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


very  formidable  competitor  to  the  Panama  Railway  as  regards  passenger 
traffic. 

Tlie  distance  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco  via  Tehuantepec  is  1,4 YY 
miles  shorter  than  via  Panama^  and  that  from  New  Orleans  to  San  Francisco 
is  2,334  miles  less  by  the  former  than  by  the  latter  route. 


ir^'^j^ 


A  Scene  on  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec. 


SECTIOIT    X. 
The  Sonora  Railway. 

From  Benson  to  Guaymas.   Distance,  353  miles  ;  time,  19  hours ;  fare,  $21. 

As  already  stated,  the  Sonora  Railway  connects  with 
the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  and  Southern  Pacific 
Eailroads. 

(For  a  full  description  of  these  routes,  see  Appletons' 
General  Guide  to  the  United  States.) 

Elevation  of  Benson,  3,578  feet;  distance  from  San  Francisco,  1,024 
miles. 

Leaving  Benson,  the  line  takes  a  southwesterly  direction 
through  the  lower  part  of  Arizona  to  Nogales  on  the  Mexi- 
can frontier,  88  miles  distant.  The  train  stops  thirty  min- 
utes here.  The  line  between  the  points  just  mentioned  is 
called  the  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  Railroad,  the  stations 
along  the  route  being  :  Canisteo,  7  miles  ;  Contention,  15 
miles ;  Fairhanhs,  18  miles  ;  BrooTcUne,  23  miles ;  Hua- 
chuca,  29  miles ;  Elgin,  40  miles  ;  Sonoita,  49  miles ;  Crit- 
tenden, 58  miles  ;  Sanford's,  G8  miles ;  Calahasas,  77  miles ; 
and  Nogales,  88  miles. 

The  road  from  Nogales  to  Guaymas  is  the  Sonora  Rail- 
way  proper.  It  was  completed  on  November  25,  1882.  The 
stations  from  Nogales  southward  are  :  Encina,  94  miles ; 
Agua  Zarca,  100  miles  ;  Cihuta,  109  miles  ;  Casita,  115 
miles  ;  Imuris,  130  miles  (fifteen  minutes'  stop)  ;  Piersons, 
135  miles  ;  San  Ignacio,  137  miles  ;  Magdalena,  142  miles, 
Santa  Ana,  153  miles ;   Llano,   160  miles  ;   Puerto,  183 


310 


CITIES  AXD  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


miles  ;  QuerohaM,  189  miles  ;  Posa,  205  miles  ;  Carlo,  217 
miles ;  Pesqueira,  239  miles ;  Zamora,  247  miles  ;  Junc- 
tion, 260  miles ;  Hermosillo,  263  miles  (thirty  minutes' 
stop) ;  Willard,  274  miles ;  Torres,  289  miles ;  Moreno, 
307  miles  ;  Ortiz,  323  miles  ;  Santa  Rosa,  333  miles  ;  May- 
torena,  338  miles ;  Batamotal,  345  miles ;  Long  Bridge, 
348  miles  ;  Batuecas,  350  miles  ;  Guaymas,  353  miles. 


Ftonieras,  Sonora. 


This  road  extends  through  a  fine  cereal  and  grazing 
country.  Oranges,  pears,  melons,  and  other  fruits  grow 
at  Hermosillo  and  to  the  southward.  This  town  has  7,000 
inhabitants.  It  contains  a  good  hotel,  the  Cosmopolitan. 
Hermosillo  lies  in  a  valley  about  ten  miles  long  and  four 
miles  wide.     It  is  at  the  base  of  the  Sierra  de  la  Campana, 


312 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


a  rugged  mountain  of  limestone.  Maydalena  has  a  popula- 
tion of  3,000.  A  wagon-road  leads  thence  to  the  town  of 
Ures.     Another  line  of  railroad  will  soon  be  constructed 


Arisjoe. 


from  Hcrmosillo  via  Ures,  Arispe,  Baclmachi,  and  Espia 
to  Paso  del  Norte. 

The  famous  Mulatos  *  mine  lies  about  120  miles  east  of 
Ures. 

There  is  a  fine  Alameda  at  Arispe.  The  capital  of  the 
State  was  formerly  located  here.  In  1832  it  was  removed 
to  Ures,  which  now  has  9,700  inhabitants. 

Guaymas,  the  terminus  of  the  Sonora  Railivay,  has  a 

*  A  million  dollars  was  recently  offered  and  refused  for  this  mine. 


THE  SONORA  RAILWAY.  313 

population  of  6,000.  The  hotels  are  the  Cosmopolitan  and 
Central.  Plans  for  building  a  railroad  to  this  town  have 
been  discussed  for  many  years.  Now  that  the  line  is  fin- 
ished, Guaymas  is  destined  to  grow  rapidly. 

The  completion  of  this  road  is  a  very  important  events 
as  it  establishes  the  third  interoceanic  route  on  this  conti- 
nent. When  fast  trains  are  placed  on  the  Atchison,  Tope- 
ka  and  Santa  Fe  line,  the  Journey  may  be  made  from  New 
York  to  Guaymas  in  five  days  and  a  few  hours.  The  fare 
by  rail  is  $108.40.  The  new  line  is  expected  to  facilitate 
communication  with  Australia,  while  it  will  also  give  the 
traders  of  the  Mexican,  Central,  and  South  American  coasts 
an  opportunity  to  send  their  products  quickly  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi Valley,  the  East,  and  the  large  cities  that  lie  be- 
tween the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  Great  Lakes. 

The  Sonora  Eailway  also  affords  Americans  a  short 
route  to  the  ports  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  Mexico. 

The  city  lies  in  latitude  28°  north  and  longitude  110° 
40'  west  of  Greenwich.  It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  ridge 
of  mountains,  and  is  well  protected  from  winds.  Its  land- 
locked harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  Mexican  coast. 

The  entrance  to  the  port  is  encompassed  by  islands. 
The  bottom  is  covered  with  a  very  soft  mud,  so  that  mas- 
ters of  vessels  intending  to  remain  a  long  time  in  the  har- 
bor are  obliged,  to  raise  their  anchors  occasionally  to  prevent 
them  from  smking  too  deeply. 

The  depth  of  water  in  the  inner  harbor  is  from  two  to 
four  fathoms,  affording  safe  anchorage  for  vessels  drawing 
from  fifteen  to  eighteen  feet.  The  depth  of  the  outer  har- 
bor is  from  four  to  seven  fathoms,  allowing  safe  anchorage 
for  vessels  of  twenty-two  to  twenty-eight  feet  draught. 
The  bay  abounds  in  a  great  variety  of  fish. 

Guaymas  is  built  along  the  shore  of  the  bay,  its  length 
being  about  one  mile,  and  its  breadth  not  exceeding  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile.     The  houses  are  of  stone,  brick,  and  adobe. 

14 


314  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


The  climate  is  exceedingly  hot  in  summer,  but  delightful 
in  winter.  The  atmosphere  is  dry,  except  in  the  rainy  sea- 
son, which  lasts  from  June  to  September. 


TEE  SONORA  RAILWAY.  315 

Steamers  leave  Guaymas  every  twenty  days  for  Manza- 
nillo,  touching  at  Altata,  La  Paz,  Mazatlan,  and  Sa7i  Bias. 

A  wagon-road  extends  from  Guaymas  to  Buena  Vista 
on  the  Rio  Yaqui,  about  100  miles  distant,  and  thence  to 
the  mining  town  of  Alamos,  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
State. 

There  is  immense  mineral  wealth  in  Sonora,  which  will 
be  developed  by  the  new  railroads.  Mines  of  gold,  silver, 
iron,  lead,  coj^per,  antimony,  tin,  and  sulphur  are  found 
in  the  region  adjacent  to  the  Sonora  Railway,  and  to  the 
branch  road  running  toward  the  State  of  Chihuahua.  De- 
posits of  carbonate  of  soda,  alum,  salt,  marble,  and  gypsum 
are  also  abundant  along  these  routes.  The  same  minerals 
occur  at  Oposura,  Saguaripa,  Altar,  and  Alamos,  the  last- 
named  town  containing  the  richest  gold  and  silver  mines 
in  the  State. 

For  many  years  the  depredations  of  the  Apache  Indians 
have  interfered  materially  with  the  development  of  the 
metallic  wealth. 

One  of  the  most  important  mineral  deposits  of  Sonora 
is  anthracite,  which  has  recently  been  discovered  at  Bar- 
ranca, on  the  Yaqui  Eiver,  about  100  miles  from  its  mouth. 
The  coal  is  found  in  sandstone  and  conglomerate,  and  is 
said  to  contain  90  per  cent  of  carbon.  It  is  probably  the 
largest  and  richest  bed  of  coal  in  Mexico. 

The  agricultural  products  have  already  been  briefly 
mentioned,  but  it  may  be  remarked  that  good  crops  of 
sugar-cane,  tobacco,  rice,  and  brown  beans  are  also  culti- 
vated. Such  trees  as  the  rosewood,  ebony,  logwood,  and 
Brazil-wood  grow  in  abundance. 


SECTION    XI. 

The  American  and  Mexican  Pacific  Sailway. 

The  corporate  name  of  this  company  is  ''The  Texas, 
Topolobampo  and  Pacific  Raih^oad  and  Telegraph  Com- 
pany." Its  charter  was  formed,  under  the  general  railroad 
law  of  Massachusetts,  on  the  8th  of  March,  1881. 

The  concession  from  the  Mexican  Government  was  ob- 
tained on  the  13th  of  June,  1881,  and  amended  on  Decem- 
ber 5,  1882.  The  leading  provisions  are  as  follow :  The 
right  to  construct  or  operate  for  ninety-nine  years  a  trunk- 
line  of  railroad  from  Topolobampo  Bay  to  Piedras  Negras, 
on  the  Rio  Grande  ;  also  to  extend  branches  from  the  main 
line  to  Alamos,  in  Sonora,  to  Mazatlan,  in  Sinaloa,  to 
Presidio  del  Norte,  on  the  Rio  Orande,  and  to  other  points 
— a  total  of  about  2,000  miles.  A  subsidy  from  the  Mexi- 
can Government  of  $8,0G4  per  mile  upon  all  of  its  lines — 
making  a  total  of  about  $16,000,000.  The  freight  tariff 
per  ton  for  each  kilometre  of  distance  is  not  to  exceed  sij: 
cents  on  first-class,  four  cents  on  second-class,  and  two  and 
a  half  cents  on  third-class  goods,  and  one  and  a  half  cents 
on  every  ton  of  coal.  The  passenger  rates  per  kilometre 
must  not  exceed  three  cents,  two  cents,  and  one  cent  and 
a  half  for  the  first,  second,  and  third  classes,  respectively. 
The  Federal  Government  agrees  not  to  subsidize  any  par- 
allel railway  within  a  limit  of  twenty-five  leagues  on  either 
side  of  the  company's  lines. 

Wood  is  abundant  along  the  greater  part  of  the  route. 
Pines  and  oaks  are  found  at  an  elevation  of  4,000  feet  and 


AMERICAN  AND  MEXICAN  PA  CIFIC  RAIL  WA  T.    317 

upward.     Cedars  and  firs  grow  ou  the  crest  of  the  Sierra 
Madre,  above  6,500  feet. 

The  State  of  Chihuahua  possesses  fine  grazing-land  (see 
1?.  285).  There  are  much  fertile  soil  and  yaluable  timber  in 
the  portions  of  Sinaloa  adjacent  to  the  line. 


The  PitaTinya. 

This  curious  plant  is  common  in  various  parts  of  Sonora.    The  stem  is  from  one  foot  to 
two  and  a  half  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  heijjht  varies  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet. 


The  following  is  a  condensed  itinerary  of  this  line  from 
Topolohampo  to  Piedras  Negras : 

Gonzalez  City,  on  the  north  side  of  the  inner  port  of  Topolohampo  Bay, 
will  be  the  site  of  the  western  terminus  of  the  railway.     The  projected 


318  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

city  has  a  water  front  of  Vl  miles.  It  lies  in  north  latitude  25°  32'.  The 
harbor  is  18  miles  long,  and  from  one  to  six  miles  in  width.  It  consists  of 
two  great  basins,  which  are  connected  by  the  straits  of  Joshua.  The  water 
is  21  feet  deep  on  the  bar  at  low  tide.  Topolobampo  is  a  far  better  port 
than  Mazatlan. 

Leaving  Gonzalez  City,  the  railway  will  have  a  northerly  course  as  far 
as  Fucrte.  It  will  then  enter  the  "  foot-hills  "  of  the  Sieri-a  3fadre,  traverse 
the  southeastern  corner  of  the  State  of  Sonora,  and  run  northeasterly,  near 
the  rich  mining  districts  of  Urique  and  Batopilas,  to  the  town  of  Bocogna 
(elevation,  7,300  feet),  in  Chihuahua.  From  this  place  the  line  will  take 
an  easterly  direction  to  Nonoavas,  and,  through  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Con- 
chos,  to  a  point  near  Parral.  Thence  the  road-bed  will  descend  to  Jimenez^ 
on  the  Mexican  Central  Railway.  Leaving  this  station,  the  track  will  be 
continued  across  the  Bolson  dc  3fapimi,  and  through  the  State  of  Coahuila, 
to  Piedras  Negras,  on  the  Rio  Grande. 

From  this  point,  connection  can  easily  be  made  with 
lines  for  Gralveston,  New  Orleans,  or  the  South  Atlantic 
coast. 

This  road  will  traverse  a  region  in  which  Americans 
have  invested  large  amounts  of  capital.  The  projectors  of 
the  railway  hope  to  obtain  much  of  the  overland  traffic 
from  New  York  to  Australia  and  New  Zealand,  as  the  dis- 
tance to  "Auckland  is  530  miles  shorter  via  To2)oloham2)0 
Bay  than  via  San  Francisco,  Cal.  Hon.  William  Windom 
is  the  president  of  this  new  railroad  company.  It  is  said 
that  the  preliminary  surveys  are  nearly  completed,  and  that 
the  work  of  grading  will  be  commenced  immediately. 


SECTIOX    XII. 

The  New  York,  Texas  and  Mexican  Railroad  (better  known 
as  Count  Telfener's  Railroad). 

This  line  begins  at  Rosenburg  Junction,  in  Texas,  and 
runs  to  Brownsville,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
via  W]ia7'ton,  Victoria,  San  Patricio,  and  Banquete. 

There  are  two  hotels  in  Broiunsville,  Miller's  and  the 
Rio  Grande.  The  objects  of  interest  are  :  Old  Fort  Broiun, 
the  United  States  Cemetery,  the  battle-fields  of  Palo  Alto 
and  Resaca  de  la  Palma,  and  Point  Isabel. 

The  road  will  cross  the  Rio  Grande  at  Brownsville,  and, 
entering  Matamoros,  it  will  extend  southward  to  Tampico, 
a  distance  of  about  275  miles. 

There  is  no  hotel  in  Matamoros.  The  places  of  interest 
are :  The  Government  buildings,  cathedral,  theatre,  Plaza 
mayor,  the  city  walls,  and  the  garden  and  zocalo  at  Santa 
Cruz  Point. 

Tlie  climate  is  very  hot  in  summer.  In  winter  the 
thermometer  occasionally  sinks  to  the  freezing-point. 

Communication  with  Broiunsville  is  made  by  row-boats. 
A  clialau,  or  flat-boat,  is  used  for  freight. 

Tlie  Matamoros  and  Monterey  Railroad  is  completed 
and  in  operation  as  far  as  Reynosa,  a  distance  of  50  miles. 
(See  p.  157.) 

Count  Telfener  *  expects  to  continue  this  railway  along 
the  coast  to  Tuxpan,  and  thence  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

*  Count  Telfener  is  an  Italian.  He  is  also  a  brother-in-law  of  Mr.  John 
Mackay,  of  Nevada. 


320  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

The  distance  by  this  route  from  New  York  to  the  Mexi- 
can capital  will  be  no  less  than  600  miles  shorter  than  by 
the  Mexican  Central,  and  300  miles  shorter  than  by  the 
Mexican  National  Railway. 

Leaving  Matamoros,  the  line  will  trend  southwesterly 
across  a  flat  country  via  San  Fernando  and  Santander  as  far 
as  the  twenty-fourth  parallel.  At  this  point  the  track  will 
be  extended  eastward  to  the  port  of  8oto  la  Mainna,  which 
lies  about  midway  between  Tampico  and  Matamoros.  The 
harbor  of  Soto  la  Marina  is  said  to  be  navigable  for  large 
vessels  up  to  a  distance  of  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  In 
this  respect  it  is  different  from  nearly  all  other  Mexican 
ports,  which  have  sand-bars  at  their  entrance. 

Count  Telfener  is  reported  to  have  stated  recently  that 
he  intends  to  concentrate  his  working  force  and  materials 
at  Soto  la  Marina,  and  construct  the  railway  northward 
and  southward  from  this  point.  Soto  la  Marina  was,  dur- 
ing the  reign  of  the  viceroys,  a  flourishing  town,  but  it  has 
since  dwindled  into  an  unimportant  village.  It  is  situated 
on  the  bank  of  the  Coro?ia  River,  about  35  miles  from  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico. 

A  few  American  merchants  have  established  themselves 
here.  Soto  la  Mari?ia  is  celebrated  in  history  as  the  spot 
where  the  unfortunate  Emperor  Iturbide  landed  in  1824. 

The  main  line  will  run  almost  due  south  from  this  port 
to  Tamjnco,  via  Cruces,  Realito,  Bejarano,  Sanapa,  and 
Aldama  ;  while  a  branch  will  be  extended  via  Padilla*  to 
Victoria,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  TamatiUpas,  where  it 
will  connect  with  the  Mexican  Southern  Railroad.  ( Vide 
Section  VII. )  The  New  York,  Texas  and  Mexican  Rail- 
road will  also  cross  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Mexican  Cen- 

*  Padilla  is  a  dilapidated  old  Spanish  settlement.  It  was  on  the  plaza 
of  this  town  that  Iturbide,  the  first  Emperor  of  Mexico,  was  shot  in  the  au- 
tumn of  1824,  in  accordance  with  a  decree  of  the  National  Congress.  The 
population  is  about  1,500. 


I^EW  YORK,  TEXAS  AXD  MEXICAN  RAILROAD.    321 
tral  Railway  at  Tampico.     (For  description  of  Tampico,  see 

r-157.) 

Proceeding  soivthward  from  this  point,  a  bridge  will 
probably  be  constructed  across  the  Pamico  River,  and 
thence  the  railway  will  run  in  a  southeasterly  direction  to 


A  Mexican  Hacienda. 


the  port  of  Tuxpan,  about  125  miles  distant.  This  division 
of  the  route  passes  through  the  northern  part  of  the  State 
of  Vera  Cruz,  which  is  noted  for  valuable  wells  of  petroleum 
and  bitumen.  (  Vide  pp.  157,  158.)  The  region  lying  be- 
tween Matanioros  and  Tuxpan  is  fertile  for  the  most  part. 


322  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF    TRAVEL. 

Tamaulipas  yields  extensive  crops  of  sugar-cane,  barley, 
maize,  wheat,  cotton,  rice,  ixtle*  and  tropical  fruits.  It 
also  contains  excellent  grazing-lands.  The  mules  raised 
in  this  State  are  said  to  be  the  best  in  Mexico.  There  is 
good  farming-land  in  Northern  Vera  Cruz.  Extensive 
forests,  consisting  of  a  great  variety  of  woods,  are  found 
along  the  route. 

Leaving  Tuxjmn,  the  railroad  will  have  a  southwesterly 
course  through  the  northern  part  of  the  State  of  Puehla 
and  the  southern  portion  of  tlie  State  of  Hidalgo,  after 
which  it  will  be  continued  to  the  District  of  Mexico.  The 
last-named  tract  of  country  possesses  valuable  silver-mines. 
The  famous  ore  deposits  of  Pacliuca  and  Regla,  in  the 
southern  part  of  Hidalgo,  are  described  on  pages  196,  197. 
The  maguey  is  planted  very  extensively  in  this  region. 
The  cereals,  brown  beans  (frijoles),  and  potatoes  are  also 
grown.  (Up  to  November  1,  1883,  if  our  sources  of  infor- 
mation are  correct,  no  rails  have  been  laid  on  the  road-bed 
of  this  railway,  although  it  has  been  graded  in  several 
places. ) 

*  Three  million  pounds  of  ixtle  are  produced  annually. 


SECTION    XIII. 
The  Mexican  International  Railroad. 

This  line  is  being  constructed  under  the  so-called  Hun- 
tington concession.  Its  northern  terminus  is  at  Piedras 
Negras,  in  the  State  of  Coahuila.  An  iron  bridge,  which  is 
930  feet  long,  crosses  the  Eio  Grande  at  this  point,  and  com- 
municates with  Eagle  Pass,  Texas.  Here  connection  is  made 
by  a  branch  line  with  the  Galveston,  Harrisburg  and  San 
Antonio  Railroad  at  Spofford  Junction,  34  miles  distant. 

Leaving  Piedras  JSfegras  (elevation,  720  feet),  the  rail- 
way runs  southerly  to  Monclova.  The  stations  are  Nava, 
25  miles  ;  Allende,  33  miles  ;  Sabinas,  73  miles  ;  Hermanas, 
125  miles  ;  and  Monclova,  148  miles.  There  is  an  iron 
bridge  over  the  Rio  Sabinas  (elevation,  1,400  feet).  The 
population  of  Monclova  is  about  3,000,  and  the  elevation  is 
2,030  feet.  A  wagon-road  leads  to  Scdtillo,  121  miles  dis- 
tant.    (See  p.  245.) 

From  Monclova  the  railroad  will  trend  southwesterly 
toward  the  "laguna  country,"  where  the  mean  elevation 
is  4,000  feet.  The  line  will  pass  within  a  few  leagues  of 
Parras  and  Mazapil.  Connection  will  be  made  with  the 
Mexican  Central  Railway  in  the  vicinity  of  Durango. 

The  greater  part  of  the  region  traversed  by  the  Mexican 
International  Railroad  is  fertile.  The  cereals,  sugar-cane, 
and  cotton  are  cultivated  at  various  points. 

On  November  1,  1883,  about  120  miles  of  track  had 
been  laid,  and  it  is  expected  that  the  road  will  be  completed 
to  Monclova  by  the  end  of  the  current  year. 


SECTION"    XIV. 

The  Sinaloa  and  Durango  Railroad. 

This  line  was  begun  in  November,  1881.  It  will  run 
from  the  port  of  Altaia,  on  the  Pacific,  to  the  City  of 
Durango,  via  CuUacan  and  Cosald,  a  distance  of  about  225 
miles.     (See  p.  9.) 

A  branch,  will  be  extended  from  CuUacan  to  Ma- 
zatlan. 

At  present  (October,  1883)  the  railway  is  completed 
from  Altata  to  CuUacan,  a  distance  of  38|  miles. 

The  population  of  Altata  is  about  500.  The  town  was 
destroyed  by  a  cyclone  on  October  3,  1883. 

The  stations  are  Guasimillas  (7f  miles),  Bacliimeto  (14 
miles),  Limoncito  (15|-  voAqb),  Navalato  (18  miles),  Yeva- 
rito  (22f  miles),  San  Pedro  (26y\  miles),  BichihuaUo  (32| 
miles),  Flares  (34  miles),  CuUacan  (38^  miles). 

CULIACAN". 

Population,  10,000;  elevation,  165  feet. 
Hotels. — Ferrocarril  and  Diligencias. 

A  diligence  runs  to  Cosald,  97  miles  from  CuUacan. 
The  city  of  Durango  lies  about  130  miles  east.* 

On  November  1,  1883,  there  were  in  the  Mexican  Ee- 
public  about  2,500  miles  of  completed  railways. 

*  Since  the  chapter  on  railroads  was  in  type,  the  author  has  decided  to 
devote  a  separate  section  to  each  of  the  four  last-named  railways,  for  con- 
venience in  the  preparation  of  future  editions. 


THE  SmALOA  AND  DURANGO  RAILROAD.    325 

Tlie  concessions  made  to  American  capitalists  to  build 
railroads  in  Mexico  amount  to  nearly  13,000  miles,  as 
follows : 

National 2,000 

Central 2,000 

International  (Huntington)  and  Southern  Pacific  (two 

concessions) 4,000 

Sonora 265 

New  York,  Texas  and  Mexican 500 

Southern 1,600 

Sinaloa 350 

Topolobampo 2,000 

12,715 


Scene  on  the  Sonora  River. 


SECTION    XV. 
Table  of  Distances  (chiefly  by  Rail). 

Miles. 

New  York  to  Laredo,  via  St.  Louis 2,187 

New  York  to  Laredo,  via  New  Orleans 2,400 

New  York  to  Mexico  City,  via  St.  Louis  and  Laredo 3,007 

New  York  to  El  Paso,  Texas,  via  St.  Louis 2,456 

San  Francisco  to  El  Paso 1,286 

El  Paso  to  Mexico  City 1,200 

Laredo  to  Mexico  City 820 

Corpus  Christi  to  Mexico  City 983 

Monterey  to  Acambaro ,  478 

Acambaro  to  Manzanillo 443 

Acambaro  to  Mexico  City 172 

Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico  City 263 

Puebla  to  Mexico  City  (by  rail) 115 

Queretaro  to  Mexico  City 152 

San  Luis  Potosi  to  Mexico  City 312 

Guanajuato  to  Mexico  City 252 

Guadalajara  to  Mexico  City,  via  Lagos 425 

Zacatecas  to  Mexico  City 340 

San  Bias  to  Mexico  City ....   661 

Durango  to  Mexico  City 529 

Morclia  to  Mexico  City 222 

Oaxaca  to  Mexico  City 350 

Perote  to  Mexico  City 237 

Acapulco  to  Mexico  City,  via  Chilpancingo 290 

Minatitlan  to  Tehuantepec 135 

Benson  to  Guaymas 353 


SECTION    XVI. 

Guatemala. 

Pkior  to  the  year  1823,  Guatemala  and  Mexico  were 
ruled  by  the  same  government.  Together,  they  formed 
the  viceroyalty  of  Xsw  Spain.  Hence  the  resemblance 
which,  in  many  respects,  the  two  republics  bear  to  each 
other.  Much  that  has  been  stated  in  Part  First,  concern- 
ing the  climate,  the  history,  language,  literature,  religion, 
education,  jurisprudence,  tariff,  money,  weights  and  meas- 
ures, immigration,  agriculture,  geology,  zoology,  botany, 
and  the  future  needs  of  Mexico,  is  in  general  applicable  to 
Guatemala. 

GEOGRAPHY. 

Area,  50,600  square  miles.  Population",  1,200,000,* 
which  is  composed  of  mestizos,  negroes,  Indians,  and  whites. 
The  last-named  are  about  12,000,  of  which  perhaps  1,000 
are  foreigners. 

Boundaries. — Guatemala  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Yucatan  ;  on  the  east  by  Balize,  the  Bay  of  Honduras,  and 
the  Eepublics  of  Honduras  and  San  Salvador  ;  on  the  south 
by  the  Pacific  Ocean ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  Mexican  State 
of  Chiapas. 

The  greatest  length  from  north  to  south  is  320  miles, 
and  the  greatest  breadth  is  280  miles. 

MouNTAiJsrs. — The  larger  part  of  the  surface  of  Guate- 
mala consists  of  an  elevated  table-land,  which  is  a  continu- 

*  In  round  numbers. 


32S 


CniES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


atiou  of  the  plateau  of  Yucatan.     It  has  a  mean  altitude 
above  the  sea-level  of  5,000  feet. 

The  Sierra  Madre,  which  is  a  prolongation  of  the  Andes 
of  South  America,  traverses  the  country  from  southeast  to 
northwest,  at  a  distance  from  the  Pacific  coast  varying  be- 
tween 30  and  50  miles.  The  mean  height  of  the  range  is 
7,000  feet.  The  greatest  altitude  is  in  the  western  portion, 
which  bears  the  local  name  of  the  CucJiumatanes  Mount- 


ains, The  descent  of  the  Sierra  Madre  on  the  southern 
side  is  abrupt,  while  on  the  northern  side  it  is  gradual 
until  it  subsides  into  the  plain. 

The  Cordillera  is  divided  into  four  sections,  viz. : 

The  Sierra  de  las  Minas  ; 

The  Sierra  de  Santa  Cruz  ; 

The  Sierra  de  Chamd  ;  and 

The  Sierra  del  Merendon. 

1.  The  Sierra  de  las  Minas  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 


GUATEMALA. 


329 


JVative  of  Mixco. 


the  valley  of  the  Bio  Polocliic  and  the  Lake  of  Izahal,  and 
on  the  soiith  by  the  Rio  Motagua.  The  range  is  formed 
mostly  of  igneous  rocks.  In  the  western  portion  it  con- 
tains mines  of  some  importance,  whence  it  derives  its  name. 
2.  The  Sierra  de  Santa  Cruz  rises  to  the  north  of  that  of 


330  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

the  Minas,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  valley  of  the 
Rio  PolocMc.  3.  The  Sierra  de  Chamd  lies  between  the 
rivers  Cahahon  and  Sarstun  on  the  south,  and  the  Rio 
Pasion  on  the  north,  ending  in  tlie  Cockscomb  Mountains 
of  the  territory  of  Balize.  This  range,  as  well  as  the  last- 
named  one,  is  composed  of  limestone. 

4.  The  Sierra,  or  Mountain  of  Merendon,  forms  the 
boundary  between  Guatemala  and  Honduras.  It  branches 
off  from  the  main  body  of  the  Cordillera  in  the  department 
of  CMquimula,  where  its  various  spurs  receive  separate  and 
distinct  names. 

A  series  of  volcanoes,  about  twenty  in  number,  ex- 
tends across  the  country.  They  are  not  found  in  the  main 
Cordillera,  but  occur  in  the  extremities  of  its  southern 
branches.  A  line  drawn  from  northwest  to  southeast  passes 
through  the  principal  ones,  and  may  be  called  the  volcanic 
axis  of  the  Cordillera  of  Guatemala.  These  volcanoes  are 
divided  into  three  sections — the  western,  the  central,  and 
the  eastern.  The  first  section  comprises  the  two  extinct 
volcanoes  of  Tacand  and  Tajumulco,  which  are  situated  in 
the  department  of  San  Marcos.  From  the  latter  sulphur 
is  mined. 

The  central  section  contains  several  active  volcanoes, 
beginning  with  the  group  of.  Quezaltenango.  The  most 
important  is  the  Cerro  Quemado,  which  has  an  altitude  of 
10,200  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The  last  eruption  of  this 
volcano  occurred  in  1785.  This  group  is  bounded  on  the 
south  by  the  volcano  of  Santa  Maria  (elevation,  11,480 
feet).  Going  toward  the  southeast,  one  sees  on  the  shores 
of  the  Lake  oiAtitlan  the  volcano  of  San  Pedro  (elevation, 
8,200  feet),  which  is  separated  from  that  of  Atitlan  by  an 
arm  of  this  lake.  Eruptions  from  the  latter  volcano  took 
place  in  1828,  1833,  and  1852. 

The  next  group  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Old  Guatemala. 
To  the  southwest  of  this  city  lies  the  highest  mountain  in 


GUATEMALA. 


331 


Central  America,  the  extinct  volcano  of  Acatenango,  wliich 
is  13,612  feet  above  the  sea-level.  To  the  north  is  another 
volcano  which  is  less  elevated.  This  group  is  bounded  on 
the  south  by  the  Volca7i  de  Fuego,  13,120  feet  high.     Its 


Volcan  de  Agua,  Old  Guatemala. 

last  eruption  was  in  June,  1880.  On  the  opposite  side  of 
the  valley  of  Old  Guatemala  lies  the  Volcan  de  Agua,  which 
has  an  altitude  of  12,286  feet.  To  the  eastward  of  this 
volcano  is  the  group  comprising  Pacaya  (elevation,  7,680 
feet),  which  is  separated  from  it  by  the  valley  of  the  Rio 
Michatoya.  The  last  eruption  took  place  in  July,  1775. 
This  system  includes  the  two  small  extinct  volcanoes  called 
the  Cerro  Redondo,  from  the  round  conical  figure  of  one  of 
them.  In  the  department  of  Santa  Rosa  lies  the  only 
outlier  of  the  Cordillera  toward  the  south,  the  mountain 
of  Santa  Rosa,  which  is  between  the  rivers  Michatoya  and 
Esclavos.  The  southern  end  of  this  mountain  is  formed 
by  the  volcano  of  Tecuamhurro. 

The  eastern  section  of  the  volcanoes  of  Guatemala  is 


332 


CITIES  AN'D   ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


situated  in  the  departments  of  Jutiapa  and  CMquimula. 
The  northernmost  member  of  this  system  is  that  of  Ipala, 
whose  height  is  11,808  feet.  To  the  southward  lies  the 
volcano  of  Monterico,  which  is  somewhat  smaller.  In  the 
same  direction  and  beyond  the  Rio  Ostila  is  the  volcano  of 
Santa  Catarina,  or  Suchitan,  in  Jutiapa. 

The  minor  volcanoes  of  Culma  and  Amayo  are  situated 
on  the  south-southwest,  beyond  which  is  the  mountain  of 
Moyuta. 

The  easternmost  volcano  of  Guatemala  is  that  of  CMn- 
go,  having  an  elevation  of  6,560  feet.  It  is  located  near  the 
frontier  of  San  Salvador.  As  in  Mexico,  the  country  is 
divided  into  three  zones,  as  follows  :  The  tierra  caliente, 


T?ie  Plaza,  Quezaltenango. 


between  the  sea-level  and  1,300  feet ;  the  tierra  templada, 
between  1,300  and  4,900  feet;  the  tierra  fria,  between 
4,900  and  8,200  feet.  The  Atlantic  shore-line  is  very  ir- 
regular in  shape,  while  the  Pacific  coast  is  bordered  with 


GUATEMALA.  333 

lagoons.  The  former  measures  150  miles  and  the  latter  is 
260  miles  in  length. 

RiVEES. — TJie  country  abounds  with  brooks  and  streams, 
some  of  which  are  navigable.  The  chief  rivers  are,  the 
Pasion,  Usumacmta,  Chixoy,  Negro,  Folocliic,  Motagua, 
Margarita,  Maria  Linda,  Guacalate,  Madre  Vieja,  Sama- 
la,  Michato'iia,  Paz,  and  Esclavos. 

Lakes, — The  principal  lakes  are  :  Izahal,  Peten,  Ama- 
titlan,  Ayarza,  Lacandon,  Atitlan,  Cuitlan,  Guija,  and 
Itzan.  Lake  Izabal  is  the  largest  (area,  860  square  miles). 
Peten  ranks  next  (area,  160  square  miles).  The  latter  is 
well  stocked  with  fish,  and  contains  a  sjDecies  of  alligator. 
The  altitude  above  the  sea-level  of  Lake  Amatitlan  is  3,890 
feet ;  that  of  Lake  Ayarza  is  3,100  feet ;  and  that  of  Lake 
Atitlan  is  5,110  feet. 

CLiiiATE. — Excepting  in  the  vicinity  of  the  marshy 
lagoons  along  the  Pacific  coast,  the  climate  is  considered 
healthy.  The  rainy  season  lasts  from  May  to  October. 
The  annual  rainfall  at  the  capital  is  computed  at  fifty-four 
inches.     The  rains  are  heaviest  in  the  tierra  templada. 

Spkings. — Hot  and  cold  springs  are  abundant  in  the 
country.  Some  of  them  contain  sulphurous  water.  Im- 
portant saline  springs  occur  in  the  dej)artments  of  CMqui- 
7nula  and  Santa  Rosa. 

Poets. — The  ports  on  the  Atlantic  shore  are  :  1.  Izalal, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  lake  of  the  same  name.  It  lies  in 
north  latitude  15°  24',  and  longitude  89°  9'  west  of  Green- 
wich. The  Rio  Dulce  forms  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  and 
the  bar  at  its  mouth  prevents  the  entrance  of  large  vessels. 
2.  Santo  Tomas,  on  the  southern  end  of  the  Bay  of  Ama- 
tique,  in  the  Gulf  of  Honduras.  It  is  situated  in  north 
latitude  15°  38'  3",  and  longitude  88°  35'  6"  west  of  Green- 
wich. It  is  one  of  the  best  ports  in  Central  America,  al- 
though insalubrious.  It  is  the  chief  seaport  of  the  eastern 
coast  of  the  Republic.     The  depth  of  water  in  the  harbor 


334 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


is  six  fathoms,  and  large  sliijDS  can  anchor  close  to  tlie 
shore.  3.  Livingston,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rio  Dulce, 
near  the  mouth.  It  lies  in  north  latitude  15°  48'  and  longi- 
tude 88°  46'  west  of  Greenwich.  This  port  was  established 
in  1878,  when  the  custom-house  of  Izahal  was  removed 
to  it. 

The  main  ports  on  the  Pacific  coast  are  :  8an  Jose,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Bio  Michatoya,  in  the  department  of 
Escuintla,  in  north  latitude  13°  56'  and  longitude  90°  42' 


General  View  of  the  City  of  Quezaltenango. 

west  of  Greenwich  ;  and  Champerico,  in  the  department  of 
SucMtepequez,  which  lies  in  north  latitude  14°  17'  and 
longitude  91°  57'  west  of  Greenwich.  There  are  a  few 
minor  ports,  such  as  San  Geronimo,  Tecojate,  and  San 
Luis,  in  the  department  of  Escuintla,  and  Los  Esclavos, 
in  the  department  of  Santa  Rosa. 

Political  Divisions. — The  following  table,  from  Fo- 
ledo,  exhibits  the  twenty  departments  into  which  the  Re- 
public of  Guatemala  is  divided,  their  estimated  areas,  their 
respective  capitals,  their  poj)ulation,  and  the  population  of 


GUATEMALA. 


335 


the  capitals.    Altogether,  the  Republic  contains  10  cities, 
22  towns,  304  townships,  and  1,794  hamlets,  etc.  : 


DEPARTMENT.  Area,  square        population, 

mues.  '^ 


Guatemala 

Sacatepequez  . . 

Amatitlan 

Escuintla 

Chimaltenango  . 

Solola 

Totonicapan. . . . 

Quiche 

Quezaltenango. . 
Suchitcpequez . . 
Huehuetenango . 
San  Marcos. . . . 

Peten 

Verapaz 

Izabal 

Chiquimula  . . . . 

Zacapa 

Jalapa 

Jutiapa.. . .    . . . 

Santa  Rosa  . . . . 


Total 


TOO 

250 

200 

1,950 

800 

700 

700 

1,300 

450 

2,500 

4,550 

750 

13,200 

11,200 

1,500 

2,200 

4,400 

450 

1,700 

1,100 


50,600 


100,000 
48,000 
38,000 
30,000 
60,000 
80,000 

114,000 
76,000 
94,000 
69,000 
90,000 

100,000 
14,000 

100,000 
3,400 
70,000 
28,000 
8,600 
38,000 
38,500 


1,198,500 


Capitals, 


Guatemala 

Antigua 

Amatitlan. 

Escuintla 

Chimaltenango 

Solola 

Totonicapan 

Santa  Cruz  del  Quiche. 

Quezaltenango 

Suchitcpequez 

Huehuetenango 

San  Marcos 

Flores 

Salama 

Izabal 

Chiquimula 

Zacapa 

Jalapa 

Jutiapa 

Cuajiniquilapa 


Population. 


50,000 

15,000 

14,000 

10,000 

6,300 

15,000 

25,000 

6,300 

22,000 

11,500 

16,000 

12,600 

2,200 

8,000 

750 

12,000 

4,000 

4,000 

7,000 

6,000 


MISCELLAISTEOUS. 

In  the  year  1524  Guatemala  was  subjugated  by  Pedro 
de  Alvarado,  who  had  been  the  trusted  lieutenant  of  Cortes 
in  the  Conquest  of  Mexico.  In  1527  Charles  V  appointed 
a  captain-general  to  govern  the  country. 

Simultaneously  with  the  achievement  of  Mexican  Inde- 
pendence, the  people  of  Guatemala  threw  oil  the  Spanish 
yoke,  and  annexed  themselves  to  the  so-called  empire  under 
Iturbide.  Upon  the  fall  of  that  usurper  in  1823,  Guate- 
mala became  united  to  the  Central  American  Federal  Ee- 
public.  Eight  years  later,  Guatemala  seceded  from  the 
remaining  states  and  proclaimed  itself  an  independent  re- 
public. 

In  1871  a  religious  war  broke  out,  which  led  to  the  ban- 


336 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


ishment  of  the  archbishop  and  the  suppression  of  the  order 
of  Jesuits.  President  Barrios,  a  man  of  enlightened  and  jiro- 
gressive  views,  was  elected  to  the  chief  magistracy  on  May 
9, 1873,  and  has  continued  to  fill  the  office  from  that  day  to 
this.    Since  the  reyolution  all  religions  have  been  tolerated. 


q.lg 


a|g^^ej,.4-iiu.. 


The  National  Institute^   Guatemala. 

The  public  debt  on  January  1,  1882,  was  $7,139,169. 
The  annual  revenue  amounts  to  17,479,719,  and  the  expen- 
ditures are  slightly  in  excess  of  this  sum.  The  largest  ex- 
port trade  is  with  the  United  States,  and  the  largest  import 
trade  is  with  Great  Britain.  The  main  exports  are  coffee,* 
India-rubber,  woolen  cloths,  hides,  sugar,  specie,  timber, 
cochineal,  cocoa,  sarsaparilla,  and  fruit.  In  1882  the  ex- 
ports of  Guatemala  amounted  to  $3,719,210,  and  the  value 
of  the  imports  was  $2,254,574. 

During  1882  the  entry  of  vessels  in  the  three  principal 
ports  was  as  follows  :  San  Jose,  67  steamers,  25  sailing-ves- 
sels ;  Cliamperico,  50  steamers,  14  sailing-vessels  ;  Living- 
ston, 41  steamers,  13  sailing-vessels. 

*  About  $4,000,000  worth  of  coffee  is  grown  annually. 


GUATEMALA. 


J37 


On  January  1,  1883,  there  were  in  the  Eepublic  811 
primary  schools,  in  which  37,469  children  were  taught  by 
972  instructors,  at  a  cost  of  ^283,000.  Evening  schools  for 
mechanics  and  working- women  have  also  been  established. 
There  is  a  governmental  School  of  Arts  and  Trades,  num- 
bering 15  professors  and  150  scholars. 

The  Government  is  now  encouraging  immigration. 

The  mineral  deposits  of  the  country  consist  of  gold, 
silver,  iron,  copper,  lead,  antimony,  zinc,  coal,  gypsum,  and 
marble.  Most  of  the  mineral  wealth  is  found  in  the  de- 
partment of  Chiquimula,  where  the  far-famed  Olotepeque 
mines  are  still  worked.  The  department  of  Izabal  contains 
auriferous  gravel-beds  and  veins  of  bituminous  coal.  The 
latter  are  found  near  the  volcano  of  San  Gil. 


"^ 


T7ie  Government  Building,  Quezaltenango. 


The  vegetable  resources  may  be  briefly  described  as  fol- 
lows :  A  large  portion  of  the  Eepublic  is  covered  with  dense 
forests ;  valuable  woods,  like  ebony,  logwood,  walnut,  In- 
dia-rubber, and  mahogany,  abound.  There  are  many  medi- 
cinal plants,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  jalap,  ipecac, 

16 


338  CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 

sassafras^  and  sarsaparilla.  Various  kinds  of  gums,  resins, 
and  balsams  are  also  found.  The  cereals,  Indian  corn, 
cotton,  Yanilla,  sugar-cane,  rice,  and  all  troj)ical  fruits  grow 
in  the  country. 

Cattle  are  raised  to  a  considerable  extent.  The  native 
dialects  are  the  Cakchiquel,  Quiche,  and  Maya.  Some  im- 
portant ruins  are  found  at  Quirigua.  The  United  States 
and  Great  Britain  have  ministers  resident  at  iVew  Guate- 
mala. American  consuls,  or  consular  agents,  reside  at  the 
capital,  and  at  the  ports  of  ChampeiHco,  San  Jose,  and  Iza- 
lal.  A  transcontinental  railway  is  projected  by  the  Gov- 
ernment from  New  Guatemala  to  Livingston,  a  distance  of 
two  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  The  line  will  cost  about 
112,000,000.  It  is  said  that  the  work  of  construction  will 
be  begun  in  the  spring  of  1884.  There  are  about  4,000 
miles  of  telegraph  in  Guatemala. 

EOUTES   AND    CITIES. 

Route  I. 

1,  From  ToNALA,  Mexico,  to  San  Jose  de  Guatemala,  221  miles. 

Leaving  Tonald,  the  Pacific  Mail  steamers  touch  at  San 
Benito  {102  miles)  and  Cliamiperico  (145  miles),  {Champerico 
Hotel).  A  Calif ornian  corporation  has  recently  constructed 
a  railway  from  the  last-named  port  to  Retalhuleu,  a  dis- 
tance of  30  miles.  Retalhuleu  is  the  capital  of  the  depart- 
ment of  the  same  name,  and  has  a  population  of  5,000. 
There  are  two  hotels  here.  There  is  no  harbor  at  Cham- 
perico, but  a  substantial  iron  pier  has  been  erected  to  facili- 
tate the  landing  of  passengers  and  cargo. 

Leaving  Champerico,  the  steamer  proceeds  to  San  Jose 
de  Guatemala,  76  miles  distant  {Hotel,  San  Jose).  An 
American  consul  resides  at  the  latter  town.  This  port  is 
an  open  roadstead,  and  has  a  pier  similar  to  that  of  Cham' 
perico. 


GUATEMALA.  339 

Route  II. 

2.  From  San  Jose  to  New  Guatemala,  6*7  miles.  Fares  to  Escuinila,  first 
class,  $4 ;  second  class,  $2.  Two  trains  daily.  The  maximum  rates  of 
freight  can  not  exceed  75  cents  a  ton. 

The  Gruatemala  Central  Railroad  Company  *  has  recent- 
ly constructed  a  narrow-gauge  (three  feet)  line  to  Esctiint- 
la,  28  'o  miles  from  San  Jose. 

The  stations  are  San  Jose,  Naranjo,  Masagua,  and  Es- 
cuinila. 

There  are  eight  barrancas,  or  ravines,  which  are  crossed 
by  bridges.     The  maximum  grade  is  4^  per  cent. 

The  railway  will  be  extended  to  the  city  of  Neiu  Guate- 
mala by  the  Central  American  Pacific  Railway  and  Trans- 
portation Company,  which  has  recently  purchased  a  con- 
trolling interest  in  the  above-mentioned  company.  The 
road  will  be  completed  during  1884.  At  present  a  daily 
stage-coach  connects  Escuintla  with  the  capital. 

GUATEMALA. 

Population,  60,000  in  1883;  elevation,  4,932  feet. 

Hotels. — Del  Globo,  Gran  Hotel,  Aleman,  Del  Teatro. 

Baths. — Granja  del  Cipres,  El  Administrador,  Matamoros,  and  El 
Zapote. 

Banks. — International  and  Colomhiano. 

Carriages,  two  horses,  $2  an  hour ;  one  horse,  $1  an  hour. 

Diligences. — To  Escuintla,  36  miles  ;  to  Chiquimula,  50  miles  ;  to  Chi- 
maltenango,  31  miles;  and  to  Old  Guatemala,  21  miles. 

Newspapers. — Six  are  published  in  the  Spanish  language. 

The  City  of  Guatemala  is  the  capital  of  the  EeiDublic. 
It  is  situated  in  north  latitude  14°  37'  32",  and  longitude 
90°  30'  47"  west  of  Greenwich.  It  was  founded  in  1776, 
on  the  northern  end  of  a  broad  plain.  The  streets  are 
straight  and  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  but  they  are 
badly  paved.     Owing  to  the  frequency  of  earthquakes,  the 

*  This  railway  was  begun  in  June,  1880. 


340 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  OF  TEAYEL. 


houses  are  of  one  story.  The  patios  are  usually  ornamented 
with  statuary  or  with  shrubs  and  flowers. 

The  city  has  several  squares.  The  largest,  a  rectangle, 
625  feet  long  by  535  feet  wide,  has  on  the  east  side  the 
cathedral  and  the  archiepiscopal  palace,  on  the  west  the 
Governor's  palace,  ministerial  offices,  etc.,  with  the  mint 
in  the  rear  ;  on  the  north  the  City  Hall ;  and  on  the  south 
a  line  of  shops.  In  the  center  is  a  fountain  and  basin  for- 
merly surmounted  by  an  equestrian  statue  of  Charles  IV,  the 
horse  of  which  alone  remains.  A  large  part  of  this  plaza  is 
occupied  by  rows  of  miserable  little  huts,  in  which  pottery, 
iron  utensils,  «^ave-thread,  and  other  small  wares  are  sold. 
The  rent  of  these  forms  a  part  of  the  municipal  revenue. 

In  the  center  of  another  square  is  the  theatre,  equal  in 
size  and  elegance  to  any  in  Spanish  America.     Eows  of 


The  National  Theatre,  Guatemala. 


orange,  oleander,  and  other  trees  of  brilliant  flowers  and 
grateful  fragrance  surround  the  building,  while  a  profu- 
sion of  statues,  fountains,  etc.,  placed  at  intervals  through- 
out the  square,  enhances  the  beauty  of  this  fashionable  even- 
ing promenade. 


GUATEMALA. 


341 


Foremost  among  the  public  buildings  is  tlie  cathedral, 
built  in  1780,  of  simple  and  elegant  design,  and  occupying 
a  space  of  450  feet  square.  In  the  decoration  of  the  inte- 
rior, a  chaste  variety  is  observed.  There  are  sculptures  in 
wood,  and  some  fine  paintings  by  native  artists.     There  are 


The  Cathedral^  Guatemala. 

twenty-four  other  churches,  a  hospital,  a  university,  a  med- 
ical school,  and  a  prison.  Guatemala  has  the  largest  num- 
ber of  educational  institutions  of  any  city  in  Central  Amer- 
ica. Many  of  the  wealthy  people  of  other  States  send  their 
children  here  for  instruction. 

The  capital  can  boast  of  an  excellent  police  force,  at  the 
head  of  which  is  a  former  member  of  the  municipal  police 
of  New  York  City,  the  uniform  in  both  places  being  the 
same.  There  are  twenty-five  public  reservoirs  and  many 
fountains.  The  water  is  brought  to  the  city  by  two  aque- 
ducts, which  cost  12,000,000. 

The  climate  of  the  capital  is  mild  though  changeable. 
April  and  May  are  the  hottest  months.     The  mean  tem- 


34:2 


CITIES  AND  ROUTES  01    TRAVEL, 


perature  of  the  year  is  65°  Falir.,  tlie  maximum  being  87° 
and  the  minimum  41°  Fahr. 

OLD    GUATEMALA  {la  AntigUO). 
Population,  20,000  in  1883. 

The  city  lies  in  latitude  14°  34'  58"  north,  and  longi- 
tude 90°  44'  5"  west  of  Greenwich.    It  was  founded  in  1524 


The  Plaza^  Old  Guatemala, 

by  Pedro  de  Alvarado.  In  1541  it  was  destroyed  by  a  flood 
of  water  from  the  adjacent  Volcan  de  Agua,  near  the  foot 
of  which  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  capital  are  extant.  The 
remains  are  now  known  as  the  Ckulad  Vieja;  i.  e.,  Old  City. 
The  city  was  soon  afterward  rebuilt  on  a  spot  a  mile 
distant  from  the  original  site,  and  between  the  volcanoes 


GUATEMALA. 


343 


de  Agua  and  de  Fuego.  These  mountains  lie  about  twenty 
miles  apart. 

In  1773  the  city  was  almost  razed  by  earthquakes.  Sev- 
eral years  later  it  was  founded  anew  in  the  Valle  de  las 
Vacas,  25  miles  distant  from  the  Ciudad  Vieja,  and  the 
capital  was  transferred  to  Neio  Guatemcda.  The  modern 
city  is  embellished  with  numerous  gardens.  Several  of  the 
ancient  edifices  have  been  repaired,  and  the  beholder  is 
impressed  with  their  former  grandeur  and  solidity. 

A  small  stream,  the  Pensativo  Eivcr,  runs  near  the  city. 

There  are  several  schools,  and  one  or  two  newspajoers 
are  published,  in  old  Guatemala. 

Coffee,  sugar-cane,  cactus,  the  cereals,  and  fruits  grow 
in  the  environs. 

The  author  wishes  to  record  his  grateful  sense  of  obligation  to  Senor 
Don  Antonio  Batres,  the  present  Minister  of  Guatemala  to  the  United  States, 
for  the  courtesy  with  which  he  has  responded  to  his  numerous  requests 
for  information  regarding  the  condition  and  prospects  of  that  Ecpublic. 


i/ie  i>  lutentiarij,  Quezaltenanao. 


APPEj^DIX. 


Language. 

The  Spanish  language,  i.  e.,  Castellano,  is  spoken 
throughout  the  Eepublic  of  Mexico.  Some  of  the  Indians 
talk  Spanish,  but  the  greater  part  of  them  have  never  been 
willing  to  give  up  the  speech  of  their  ancestors.  The 
Mexican  or  Aztec  dialect  is  spoken  by  a  larger  number  of 
persons  than  any  other  native  tongue. 

The  other  languages  are  the  Tarasc,  Cora,  Otomi,  Ilua- 
stec,  Mixtec,  Totonac,  Tzapotec,  Maya,  Tepehuan,  Popo- 
louc,  Caquiquel,  Mazahua,  Taraumar,  and  Zotzil. 

There  is  some  diiference  between  the  Spanish  of  Castile 
and  that  of  Mexico  in  the  use  of  adjectives  and  nouns, 
e.  (J.,  in  Mexico,  chico,  meaning  "small,"  is  substituted  for 
pequeno,  and  temhlor,  signifying  "earthquake,"  is  used  for 
terremoto.  There  is  also  a  slight  difference  in  pronuncia- 
tion in  the  two  countries,  e.g.,  the  "11"  is  pronounced 
like  "  y  "  in  the  word  "  year  "  in  Mexico,  instead  of  hav- 
ing the  palatal  sound.  The  "z"  is  pronounced  like  "s," 
instead  of  having  the  lisped  sound  of  "tli"  in  "thief." 
The  guttural  pronunciation  of  the  jota  (j)  is  not  as  strong- 
ly marked  as  in  Spain,  and  the  "  d  "  is  not  sounded  in  the 
middle  of  a  word.  There  are  twenty-seven  letters  in  the 
Spanish  alphabet,  every  one  of  which  is  pronounced,  except 
"  h,"  which  is  always  silent. 


346  APPENDIX. 

The  vowels  are  pronounced  as  follows  : 
a,  like  a   in  father. 


e,    ' 

'      a 

"  mate. 

i,    ' 

e 

"  me. 

o,    ' 

o 

"  go. 

u,    ' 

'      00 

"  boot. 

y.  ' 

'   y 

"  liberty 

\ 


2/  is  a  vowel  when  it  stands  by  itself,  or  at  the  end  of  a 
word,  or  of  a  syllable  immediately  followed  by  a  consonant. 
The  consonants  are  pronounced  as  follows  : 
b,  like  b  in  baby  (b  is  often  erroneously  sounded  like  v). 

th  in  theft. 

ch  in  chess, 

d  in  day  and  fed. 

f  in  effect. 

h  in  ham,  he. 

h  silent  in  heir. 

h  strongly  aspirated  in  home. 

I  in  labial,  elect. 

II  in  brilliant. 
m  in  amen, 
n  in  energy,  no. 
n  (somewhat  nasal)  in  onion, 
p  in  paper, 
q  in  piquet,  quint, 
r  soft  in  erect. 

r  or  rr  (very  harsh)  in  horror. 
ss  in  senseless, 
t  in  tent. 
V  in  velvet. 
X  (cs)  in  maxim. 

y  softer  than  g  or  j  in  gentry,  jet. 
z  like  th,  lisped  z,  in  thermal. 

*  C,  before  a,  o,  m,  /,  r,  and  when  it  is  at  the  end  of  a  syllable,  sounds 
like  k  in  English. 


c,* 

ii 

ch, 

(< 

d, 

ii 

f. 

ii 

g» 

ii 

\ 

ii 

h 

ii 

1, 

ii 

11, 

ii 

m. 

ii 

n, 

ii 

fi, 

ii 

P, 

ii 

q, 

ii 

1% 

ii 

r, 

ii 

s, 

ii 

t, 

ii 

V, 

ii 

X, 

ii 

LANGUAGE. 


347 


In  simple  words,  e,  i,  c,  r,  are  the  only  letters  that  can 
be  written  double.  In  compound  words,  all  the  vowels,  and 
also  n  and  s,  are  written  double  whenever  any  of  them  are 
the  last  of  the  component,  and  the  first  of  the  word  to  be 
compounded. 

The  following  words  and  phrases  will  be  found  useful  : 


VERBS. 

To  have.                ^'^^'"'^^^ 

'• 

To  he. 

Haber. 

Tener.* 

Ser. 

Estar. 

Having.                  «^^^^^- 
Habiendo.            Teniendo. 

Siendo 

Being. 

Estando. 

Had. 

PAST   PAETICIPLE. 

Been. 

Habido. 

Tenido. 

Sido. 

Estado. 

Indicative  Mood. 

I  have. 

PEESENT   TENSE. 

I  am. 

1.  He. 

Tengo. 

Soy. 

Estoy. 

2.  Has. 

Tienes. 

Eres. 

Estas. 

3.  Ha. 

Tiene. 

Es. 

Esta. 

2.  V.  ha. 

V.  tiene. 

V.  es. 

V.  estd. 

1.  Hemos. 

Tenemos. 

Somos, 

Estamos. 

2.  Habeis. 

Teneis. 

Sois. 

Estais. 

3.  Han. 

Tienen. 

Son. 

Estan. 

2.  VV.  ban. 

VV.  tienen. 

VV.  son. 

VV.  estan. 

I  had. 

IMPEEFECT    TENSE. 

I  was. 

1.  Habia. 

Tenia. 

Era. 

Estaba. 

2.  Habias. 

Tenias. 

Eras. 

Estabas. 

3.  Habia. 

Tenia. 

Era. 

Estaba. 

2.  V.  habia. 

V.  tenia. 

V.  era 

V.  estaba. 

1.  Habiamos. 

Teniamos. 

firatnos. 

Estdbamos. 

2.  Habiais. 

Teniais. 

Erais. 

Estdbais. 

3.  Habian. 

Tenian. 

Eran. 

Estaban. 

2.  VV.  habian. 

VV.  tenian. 

VV.  eran. 

V  V.  estaban. 

*  Tener 

•  means  "  to  have  "  in 

the  posses 

sive  sense. 

348 


APPENDIX. 


1. 

FUTURE 

I  shall  have. 
Habr6.               Tendre. 

TENSE. 

I  shall  he. 
Ser6.                 Estar6. 

2. 

Habras.             Tendras. 

Seras.               Estaras. 

3. 

Habra.              Tendra. 

Sera.                Estara. 

2. 

V.  babra.          Y.  tendra. 

V.  sera.            V.  estara. 

1. 
2. 

Habremos.        Tendremos. 
Habr^is.            Tendreis. 

Seremos.          Estar6raos. 
Ser6is.              Estar6is. 

3. 

Habrdn.            Tendran. 

Seran.               Estardn. 

2. 

W.  babran.     W.  tendran. 

yy.  seran.       yy.  estaran 

ARTICLES. 

Indefinite  Article. 

Masculine  Singular.  A  or  an,  Un.     Plural.   Some,  Unos  or  alganos. 

Feminine       "  "       "    Una.        "       Some,  Unas  or  algunas. 

Definite  Article. 
Masculine  Singular.     Tbe,  El.  Plural.     Tbe,  Los. 

Feminine        "  "     La.  "         The,  Las. 

PRONOUNS. 

The 'personal  pronouns  are:  Singular. — I,  yo  ;  thou,  tu ;  you 
(your  honor  or  worship),  usted ;  he,  el;  she,  ella  ;  it,  eZ,  ella^  ello 
or  lo.  Plural. — We,  nosotros  or  nosotras  ;  you,  vosotros,  vosotras, 
or  vos;  you  (your  honors  or  worships),  ustedes;  they,  ellos,  ellas. 

Possessive  Pronouns. 


Singular 

Plural. 

My, 

mi. 

mis. 

Thy, 

tu. 

tus. 

His, 

su  or  de  61, 

sus  or  de  ellos. 

Her, 

su  or 

ie  ella. 

sus  or  de  ellas. 

Singular. 

Plural. 

■  su  or  de  el. 

sus  or  de  ellos. 

Its, 

■ 

su  or  de  ella. 
su  or  de  ellos. 

sus  or  de  ellas. 
sus  or  de  ellos. 

.  su  or  de  ellas. 

sus  or  de  ellas. 

Mine, 

mio,  mios,  mia, 

mias. 

Thine, 

tuyo,  tuyos,  tu. 

y^a,  tuyas. 

LANGUAGE. 


349 


■  suyo,  suyos,  siiya,  suyas. 
His,  her,  its,     el  suyo,  los  suyos,  la  suya,  las  suyas. 
theirs.         |  el  de  el,  los  de  61,  el  de  ella,  los  de  elk. 

,  los  or  las  de  el,  etc. 
Our,  ours,        nuestro,  nuestros,  nuestra,  nuestras. 

r  vuestro,  vuestros,  vuestra,  vuestras. 

^  J  de  Usted  or  de  Ustedes. 

Your,  yours,     ^^^  j^^^  ^^^  ^^^  ^^  ^  ^^  ^^  ^.^^ 

I  suyo,   suyos,  suya,  suyas. 

Relative  Pronouns. 

Quien,  in  the  plural  quiaies  or  quien,  who,  which,  that. 

Que,  who,  which,  what,  that. 

Cual,  in  the  plural  cualcs,  who,  which,  what,  that. 

Cuyo,  whose,  which. 

Cualquiera,  in  the  plnr alcucdesquiera,  whoever,  whichever,  whatever. 

Quienquiera,  whoever,  whichever. 

Demonstrative  Pronouns. 


Sing.       Plur. 

Sing.       Plur. 

Sing.        Plur. 

This.       These. 

That.       Those. 

That.        Those. 

Masculine. 

Este.        Estos. 

Ese.         Esos. 

Aquel.      AqueUos. 

Feminine. 

Esta.       Estas. 

Esa.         Esas. 

Aquella.  Aquellas. 

Days. 

Sunday, 

Domingo. 

A  holiday. 

dia  de  fiesta. 

Monday, 

Liines. 

Fast-day, 

dia  de  ayuno. 

Tuesday, 

Martes. 

Once  a  day. 

una  vez  al  dia. 

Wednesday, 

Miercoles. 

Each  day, 

cada  dia. 

Thursday, 

Jueves. 

To-day, 

hoy. 

Friday, 

Viernes. 

To-morrow, 

manana. 

Saturday, 

Sabado. 

Yesterday, 
Months. 

ayer. 

Enero. 

AbrU. 

Julio. 

Octubre. 

Febrero. 

Mayo. 

Agosto. 

Noviembre. 

Marzo. 

Junio. 

Setiembre. 

Diciembre. 

350 

APPENDIX. 

A 

year,                       un  afio. 

A 

century,                   un  siglo. 

A  fortnight,                 una  quincena. 

A 

week,                      una  seraana. 

NUMBEES. 

1,  uno. 

12,  doce.                                       30,  treinta. 

2,  dos. 

18,  trece.                                     40,  cuarenta. 

3,  tres. 

14,  catorce.                                 50,  cincuenta. 

4,  cuatro. 

15,  quince.                                  60,  sesenta. 

5,  cinco. 

16,  diez  y  seis.                            70,  setenta. 

6,  seis. 

17,  diez  y  siete.                          80,  ochenta. 

7,  siete. 

18,  diez  y  ocho.                           90,  noventa. 

8,  ocbo. 

19,  diez  y  nueve.                      100,  ciento. 

9,  nueve. 

20,  veinte.                              1,000,  mO. 

10,  diez. 

21,  veinte  y  uno,  or        1,000,000,  un  millon. 

11,  once. 

veintiuno. 

Feactions  {las  fracciones). 

Half, 

la  mitad. 

Third, 

el  tercio,  la  tercera  parte. 

Quarter, 

fourth,        el  cuarto,  la  cuarta  parte,  etc. 

Double, 

el  doble. 

Treble, 

el  triple. 

First, 

el  primero. 

Second, 

el  segundo. 

The  Seasons  {las  estaciones). 

Spring,        la  primavera.                   Mud,              el  barro,  lodo. 

Summer,     el  verano  or  estio.           Dust,             el  polvo. 

Autumn,      el  otofio.                            Thunder,        el  trueno. 

Winter,       el  invierno.                      Lightning,     el  relampago. 

Cold,           el  frio. 

Storm,           la  tempestad. 

Heat,           el  calor.                            It  is  going  to  rain,  va  a  Hover. 

Rain,           la  lluvia.                           How  cold  it  is,  qu6  frio  hace. 

Snow,          la  nieve.                           Too  hot,  demasiado  caliente. 

Dry,            seco. 

How  warm,  qu6  calor. 

Teaveling  by  Railway. 

To  travel. 

viajar. 

A  railway, 

un  ferrocarril. 

LANGUAGE. 


351 


A  train, 

By  the  railway-omnibus, 

The  luggage, 

How  many  parcels? 

A  baggage-receipt. 

Ticket  or  booking-office, 

I  want  a  ticket. 

First-class, 

Second-class, 

Third-class, 

How  is  this  station  called? 

How  long  does  the  train  stop 

here? 
A  first-class  carriage, 
A  refreshment-room, 
To  start, 
To  arrive, 
A  porter, 
Do  we  change  carriages  here? 


un  tren. 

por  el  omnibus  del  ferrocarril. 

el  equipage. 

cuantos  bultos? 

un  talon  del  equipage. 

un  despacho  de  boletas. 

quiero  una  boleta. 

primera  clase. 

segunda  clase. 

tercera  clase. 

como  se  llama  esta  estacion  ? 

cuanto  tiempo   se  detiene  aqui  el 

tren? 
un  coche  de  primera  clase. 
una  fonda. 
marchar,  salir. 
llegar. 

un  portador. 
se  cambia  aqui  de  coche  (or  de  tren)? 


The  Steamboat  (eZ  vapor). 

To  embark,  embarcarse. 

To  land,  desembarcar,  ir  a  tierra. 

A  boat,  una  lancha. 

A  berth,  un  camarote. 

The  deck,  el  puente. 

Sea-sickness,  el  mareo. 


The  rooms, 

A  floor, 

A  bed. 

Are  the  sheets  dry? 

Clean, 

To  clean, 

To  brush  the  clothes, 

House-maid, 

Lady's-maid, 

Valet-de-ch  ambre. 


The  Inn  {la  fonda). 

los  cuartos. 

un  piso,  principal,  segundo,  bajo,  etc. 

una  cama. 

estan  secas  las  sabanas  ? 

linipio. 

limpiar. 

sacudir  la  ropa. 

criada. 

doncella. 

ayuda  de  camara. 


352 


APPENDIX. 


Landlord, 

The  bill, 

How  much  ? 

Bring  the  breakfast, 

A  clean  towel, 

To  clean  the  shoes, 

A  glass, 

Hot  water. 

Boiling  water. 

Wash-band  basin, 

A  bottle  of  drinking  water, 

Chair, 

Arm-chair, 

A  sofa, 

A  sitting-room, 

To  call  one  up, 

To  rise  early. 

To  light  the  fire, 

A  chimney, 

A  night-hght. 

Oil, 

Waiter, 

Soap, 

W.  C, 

Urinal, 

Office, 

I  want  a  room. 

With  two  beds. 

Room  on  the  street, 

Inside  room. 

Bill, 

How  much  daily  ? 

Shut  the  door. 

Call  my  maid, 

Bathing-house, 


el  amo,  el  fondista. 

la  cuenta. 

cuanto  ? 

traige  V.  el  almuerzo. 

una  toalla  limpia. 

limpiar  el  calzado. 

un  vaso. 

agua  caliente. 

agua  hirviendo. 

la  jofaina  (lavamanos). 

una  botella  de  agua  para  beber. 

la  silla. 

la  butaca,  el  sillon. 

un  sofa. 

un  gabinete. 

despertar. 

madrugar. 

encender  fuego. 

una  chimenea. 

una  lamparUla. 

el  aceite. 

camarero,  mozo. 

el  jabon. 

el  escusado  or  coraun. 

el  meadero. 

el  despacho. 

quiero  un  cuarto. 

con  dos  camas. 

cuarto  con  vista  a  la  calle. 

cuarto  interior. 

cuenta. 

cuanto  vale  diario  ? 

cierre  V.  la  puerta. 

Uame  V.  a  mi  doncella. 

casa  de  banos. 


Give  us  some  dinner. 
Dinner  is  ready. 


Dinner  {la  comida). 

demos  V.  de  comer, 
esta  lista  la  comida. 


LANGUAGE. 


353 


Beef, 

Boiled  meat, 

Salt  meat, 

Roast, 

Beer, 

Bottle, 

Biscuit, 

Bacon, 

Brandy, 

Bread  (plain), 

Butter, 

Cheese, 

Chicken, 

Chop, 

A  candle, 

Claret, 

To  carve, 

Coffee, 

Chocolate, 

A  cup  of  chocolate, 

A  cup, 

The  dining-room, 

A  dish, 

Table  cVhote, 

Where  is  my  cover? 

An  Qgg, 

A  fresh  egg, 

A  fish, 

A  fork, 

Grapes, 

Hare, 

Ham, 

A  knife, 

Lamb, 

A  lamp, 

A  lemon, 

Liquor, 

Lettuce, 

Meat, 


carne  de  vaca,  res, 

carne  cocida. 

carne  salada. 

asado. 

la  cerveza. 

la  botella. 

el  bizcocho. 

el  tocino. 

cognac,  el  aguardiente. 

pan. 

la  mantequilla. 

el  queso. 

un  polio. 

una  chuleta. 

una  vela. 

vino  tinto. 

trinchar. 

el  oaf  6. 

el  chocolate. 

una  jicara  de  chocolate. 

una  taza. 

el  comedor. 

un  plato. 

mesa  redonda. 

donde  esta  mi  cubierta. 

un  huevo,  un  blanquillo. 

un  huevo  fresco. 

un  pescado. 

un  tenedor. 

uvas. 

la  liebre. 

el  jam  on. 

un  cuchillo. 

el  cordero. 

una  liimpara. 

un  limon. 

el  licor, 

la  lechuga. 

la  carne. 


354: 


APPENDIX. 


Cold  meat, 

Milk, 

Hot  milk, 

Goat's  milk, 

Mutton, 

An  omelet, 

Oysters, 

Pastry, 

A  cake, 

Peach, 

Potatoes, 

A  plate, 

A  large  dish, 

A  rabbit, 

A  salad. 

To  serve, 

A  spoon, 

A  tea-spoon, 

A  napkin, 

Sweet, 

Sour, 

Sngar, 

Molasses, 

Supper — to  sup, 

A  tumbler, 

A  pitcher, 

A  wine-glass. 

Veal, 

Vegetables, 

Vinegar, 

Water, 

Wine, 


carne  fria. 

la  leche. 

leche  caliente  or  calida. 

leche  de  cabra. 

el  carnero. 

una  tortilla  de  huevos. 

ostiones. 

pasteleria, 

un  pastel. 

abridor,  durazno. 

las  patatas,  papas. 

un  plato. 

una  fuente. 

un  conejo. 

una  ensalada. 

servir. 

una  cuchara. 

una  cucharita. 

una  servilleta. 

dulce. 

agrio. 

el  azucar. 

piloncillo,  panocha. 

la  cena — cenar. 

un  vaso. 

un  jarro. 

una  copa. 

la  tern  era. 

los  legumbres. 

el  vinagre. 

el  agua. 

el  vino. 


The  Post-Offioe  {el  correo^  casa  de  correos). 

The  office,  el  despacho. 

A  letter,  una  carta. 

A  single  letter,  una  carta  sencilla. 

A  stamp,  una  estampilla. 

An  envelope,  una  cubierta. 


LANGUAGE. 


355 


Paper, 

A  sheet  of  paper, 

A  quire  of  paper. 

Blotting-paper, 

Are  there  letters  for  me  ? 

Here  is  my  name. 

Where  is  the  hst  ? 

Is  the  office  closed  ? 

Is  it  too  heavy  ? 

Must  this  letter  be  prepaid  ? 

The  postman^ 


el  papel. 

un  pliego  de  papel. 

un  mano  de  papel. 

la  teleta. 

hay  cartas  para  mi  ? 

este  es  mi  apellido. 

donde  esta  la  lista  ? 

esta  cerrado  el  despacho  ? 

hay  esceso  de  peso  ? 

hay  que  franquear  esta  carta  ? 

el  cartero. 


The  CusTOM-HoirsE  (la  aduana). 


An  employe. 

Is  the  baggage  examined  here  ? 

Clothes, 

Worn, 

For  my  own  use, 

The  tariff, 

The  duties, 

What  must  I  pay  ? 

Contraband, 

Shut  the  trunks, 

The  keys, 

A  carpet-bag, 

A  box, 

A  hat-box, 

To  search. 


un  empleado. 

se  registra  aqui  el  equipage  ? 

la  ropa. 

usada. 

para  mi  uso  personal. 

el  reglamento. 

los  derechos. 

cuauto  hay  que  pagar  ? 

el  contrabando. 

cierre  V.  las  maletas. 

los  Haves. 

un  saco  de  noche. 

un  haul,  una  caja. 

una  sombrerera. 

visitar,  registrar. 


Diligence,  Posxraa,  Eiding. 

Stable,  la  cuadra. 

Horses  and  mules,  caballerias. 

Post-house,  la  parada,  la  posta 

Post-boy,  el  postilion,  delantero. 

Driver,  el  cochero. 

What  is  the  name  of  this  village  ?  como  se  llama  este  pueblo  ? 

Are  we  far  ?  estamos  lejos  ? 

We  are  near,  estamos  cerca. 

The  drag,  la  plancha. 


356 


APPENDIX. 


A  wheel, 

The  pole, 

A  team  of  mules, 

A  saddle, 

Stirrups, 

A  whip, 

Stop, 

To  stop. 

To  post, 

When  shall  we  get  to 

A  bridle. 

Forward, 


Lettek-Weiting 


A  pen, 

A  steel  pen, 

Direction, 

Note-paper, 

Envelopes, 

Sealing-wax, 

A  wafer, 

To  put  into  the  P.  O., 

A  letter-box, 

Take  this  to  the  P.  O., 

A  Cab 

Drive  me  to  —  street,  No. 

Are  you  engaged  ? 

By  the  hour, 

Stop  here. 

Go  farther, 

Go  back, 

Go  fast, 

Go  slower. 

What  is  the  fare  ? 

It  is  too  much, 

I  shall  not  pay  more. 

Not  engaged,  i.  <?.,  to  let 

Coachman, 


una  rueda. 

la  lanza. 

un  tiro  de  mulas. 

una  silla. 

los  estribos. 

un  latigo,  una  cuarta. 

pare  V. :  alto. 

parar. 

correr  la  posta. 

cuando  llegaremos  a ? 

una  brida. 
adelante. 

{para  escrihir  una  carta). 

una  pluma. 

una  pluma  de  acero. 

sobrescrito,  sefias. 

papel  de  cartas. 

los  sobres. 

el  lacre. 

una  oblea. 

echar  una  carta  en  el  correo. 

un  buzon. 

lleve  V.  esta  carta  al  correo. 


(un  cache  de  alqiiiler). 

— ,       vayaustedalacalle — ,  ndmero- 
esta  V.  ocupado  ? 
por  hora. 
pare  V.  aqui. 
vaya  V.  mas  lejos. 
vuelva  V. 
vaya  V.  de  prisa. 
vaya  V.  mas  depacio. 
cuanto  ? 
es  demasiado. 
no  pagar6  mas. 
se  alquila. 
el  cochero. 


LANGUAGE. 


357 


In  a 

Where  is ? 

The  theater, 

The  bank, 

Cab-stand, 

The  museum, 

The  garden. 

The  public  walk. 

The  palace, 

The  magistrate. 

The  mayor. 

Which  is  the  way  to  — 

Turn  to  the  right. 

Turn  to  the  left, 

A  policeman, 

A  street, 

A  square, 

I  wish  to  see, 

I  do  not  understand,  • 

I  do  not  speak  Spanish, 

I  am  an  American, 

I  am  an  Englishman, 


The  washerwoman. 

An  apron, 

A  cap, 

A  collar. 

Cotton, 

A  crinoline, 

A  cravat, 

Dirty  linen. 

Drawers, 

A  dressing-gown, 

An  under-petticoat, 

An  upper-petticoat, 

A  flannel  waistcoat, 

A  napkin, 

A  night-shirt, 


Town  {en  una  ciudad). 

donde  esta ? 

el  teatro. 

el  banco. 

la  parada  de  coches  de  alquiler. 

el  museo. 

el  jar  din. 

el  paseo. 

el  palacio. 

el  magistrado. 

el  alcalde. 
-?  por  donde  se  va  d ? 

vuelva  V.  a  la  derecha. 

vuelva  V.  a  la  izquierda. 

un  agente  de  policia. 

una  calle. 

una  plaza. 

deseo  ver,  visitar. 

no  comprendo. 

no  hablo  EspaQol. 

soy  Americano. 

soy  Ingles. 

The  Washestg  (lavadura). 
la  lavandera. 
un  delantal. 
una  gorra. 
un  cuello. 
el  algodon. 
un  miriflaque. 
una  corbata. 
ropa  sucia. 
los  calzoncillos. 
una  bata. 
una  enagua. 
un  guardapi^s. 

un  chaleco  interior  de  flanela. 
una  toalla. 
una  camisa  de  dormir. 


358 


APPENDIX. 


A  handkerchief, 

Sheets, 

Shirt, 

Stays, 

Stockings, 

Washing, 

Washing-bill, 

Let  us  count. 


un  panuelo. 

las  sabanas. 

la  camisa. 

el  corse,  la  faja. 

los  calcetinas,  las  medias  (if  long). 

lavadura. 

la  cuenta  de  la  ropa  limpia. 

contemos. 


Bring  the  clean  linen  immediately,  traige  Vd.  la  ropa  blanca  ahora. 
The  stains,  las  raanchas. 

Starch,  el  almidon. 

To  iron,  planchar. 


VOCABULARY. 


About, 

Above  (beyond), 

Above  (or  upward). 

Abroad, 

Accordingly, 

According  to, 

Advance,  in, 

Afoot,  on  foot. 

Afraid,  to  be. 

Ago,  long  ago. 

All,  everybody. 

All  the  better, 

Ambassador, 

Apartment, 

Appears,  it, 

Apple, 

Apricot, 

As  for,  as  to, 

Ascend,  to, 

Ashore, 

Ask,  to. 

As  much. 

Asparagus, 


sobre,  cerca. 

encima  de,  mas  de. 

arriba. 

fuera,  fuera  de  su  casa. 

en  conformidad, 

segun. 

por  adelantado. 

a  pi6. 

tener  miedo. 

pasado,  hace  mucho  tiempo. 

todo,  todo  el  mundo. 

tanto  mejor. 

embajador. 

habitacion,  cuarto. 

parece. 

manzana. 

albaricoque. 

en  cuanto  a. 

subir. 

por  d  tierra,  en  el  suelo. 

pedir. 

tanto. 

esparrago. 


LANGUAGE. 


359 


Assembly-room, 

As  soon  as, 

As  though. 

Auction, 

Auction-room, 

Auctioneer, 

Away, 

Back-door, 

Bag,  carpet-bag, 

Bakery, 

Ball,  ' 

Ball  (billiard). 

Banana, 

Bandbox, 

Bank-book, 

Bank-note, 

Bank  post -bill. 

Bank, 

Branch-bank, 

Bank  (joint-stock), 

Bank  (savings). 

Banker, 

Barber, 

Bargain, 

Bargain,  to  make  a  good, 

buy  cheaply. 
Barley, 
Basket, 
Bath, 

Bath-keeper, 
Bath  (warm), 
Bath  (tepid), 
Bath  (shower), 
Bathing  room. 
Bathing  establishment, 
Bathing-dress  or  gown. 
Beans, 
Bedstead, 
Bed-clothes, 


sala  de  reunion, 
desde  que,  enseguida. 
como  si. 
almoneda. 
sala  de  ventas. 
tasador;  vendutero. 
adelante,  lejos  de  aqui. 
puerta  de  detras. 
saco,  saco  de  noche,  saco  de  viaje, 
panaderia.  [6  maleta. 

baile. 
bola. 
platano. 
carton. 

libro  de  banco, 
billete  de  banco, 
mandato  a  orden  del  banco, 
banco. 

sucursal  (del  banco), 
banco  por  acciones. 
banco  de  ahorras. 
banquero. 
barbero. 

mercado,  contrato. 
or  to  hacer  una  buena  compra ;  6  com- 
prar  alguna  cosa  4  buen  precio. 
cebada. 

cesta ;  tenate  ;  canasta. 
baflo. 
bafiista. 
bafio  caliente. 
bano  tibio. 

bafio  de  asiento  ducado. 
sala  de  bafios. 
casa  de  bafios. 
peinador. 
habas. 

madera  de  caraa. 
mantas,  sabanas. 


360 


APPENDIX. 


Bed-chamber  or  bed-room, 

Bed-time, 

Beef, 

Beef-steak, 

Beer, 

Begone, 

Behold,  look. 

Bellows, 

Bell-pull  or  bell-rope. 

Below  or  down-stairs. 

Best,  for  the ;  at  best. 

Betimes,  early, 

Better,  I  had. 

Better  and  better. 

Better  for  tbe. 

Beyond  (pointing), 

Beyond  that  house. 

Bill-broker, 

Billiard-room, 

Bill;  bill  of  fare, 

Bird, 

Biscuit, 

Black, 

Blacksmith, 

Blanket, 

Blind, 

Blue, 

Board  (living), 

Boarder  (at  a  boarding-house), 

Boarding-house  or  school;  family 

Bolster,  [boarding-house. 

Book-binder, 

Bootmaker, 

Boots,  men's ;  women's. 

Boot-jack, 

Bottle;  half-bottle, 

Box, 

Brandy, 

Brass, 


cuarto  por  dormir,  6  dormitorio, 

la  bora  de  acostarse. 

buey,  res. 

bifteck. 

cerveza. 

vayase  V. 

mire  V.  he  aqui. 

bofeton. 

cordon  de  campanilla. 

abajo. 

per  lo  mejor ;  la  mejor. 

temprano. 

har6  mejor, 

mejor  y  mejor. 

mejor. 

alia. 

mas  lejos  de  esta  casa. 

corredor  de  cambio. 

salon  de  billar. 

nota;  billete;  efecto. 

pdjaro. 

bizcocho. 

negro. 

herrero. 

manta. 

velo. 

azul. 

pension,  comida. 

colegial. 

colegio  ;  casa  de  hu6spedes. 

traversero ;  almohadon. 

encuadernador. 

zapatero. 

botas;  botines. 

sacabotas. 

botella ;  media  botella. 

caja. 

aguardiente. 

bronce. 


LANGUAGE, 


3G1 


Bread,    fresh,  stale,  household, 

brown. 
Breakfast, 
Break  of  day, 
Breeze, 
Brewer, 
Brew-house, 
Bricklayer, 
Bridge, 
Bring, 
Broad, 
Brown, 

Brush,  clothes ;  tooth ;  boot. 
Bug, 

Build,  to. 
Builder, 
Burial-ground, 
Business ;  in  business 
Butcher ;  butcher's  shop, 
Butter ;  butter-boat, 
Button, 
By-way, 
Cab, 

Cabbage, 

Cabin,  first ;  foro  cabin, 
Cage, 

Cake ;  cake  of  soap, 
Candle;  wax-candle. 
Candlestick, 
Cap, 
Capon, 
Captain, 

Card;  card-case. 
Card  (visiting). 
Cards,  a  pack  of. 
Carpenter, 

Carriage ;    carriage   with   two 
Carrots,  [horses. 

Cart, 

16 


pan,  tierno,  duro,  do   casa,  mo- 

reno. 
almuerzo. 
punta  del  dia. 
brisa,  viento. 
cervecero. 
cerveceria, 
albanil. 
puente. 
traer. 
ancho. 
moreno. 

cepillo  de  ropa ;  de  diente ;   de 
chinche.  [botas. 

construir. 
constructor, 
cimenterio. 

negocio  ;  en  el  negocio. 
carnicero;  carniceria. 
raantequilla ;  salsera. 
boton. 

camino  desviado. 
cabriole;  coche  de plazon. 
col. 

primera,  segunda  sala. 
jaula. 
pastel, 
candela. 
candelero. 
gorro. 
capon, 
capitan. 
carta;  cartera. 
tarjeta. 

una  baraja  de  naipes. 
carpintero. 

coche ;  coche  con  dos  caballos. 
zanahorias. 
carreta. 


362 


APPENDIX. 


Cash ;  ready  money, 

Cashier, 

Cathedral, 

Cauliflower, 

Cave, 

Cedar, 

Certainly, 

Chain;  watch-chain. 

Chamber-maid, 

Chamber-pot, 

Chair  ;  arm-chair ;  easy-chair, 

Cheap ;  cheaper, 

Cheese, 

Chemist, 

Check, 

Check-book, 

Cherry, 

Chest;  trunk, 

Chicken, 

Child, 

Chocolate, 

Choose,  to, 

Church  (for  Protestants), 

Circus, 

City, 

Club;  society, 

Coach, 

Coachman, 

Coach-oflfice ;  coach-stand, 

Coat;  frock-coat;  great-coat, 

Coal;  coal-scuttle, 

Coast, 

Cod, 

Coffee, 

small  cup  of, 

with  milk, 

without  milk, 
Coflfee-pot, 
Coffee-house, 


moneda;  dinero  al  contado,  6  con- 

cajero.  [tante. 

catedral. 

coliflor. 

cueva. 

cedro. 

ciertamente. 

cadena  ;  cadena  de  reloj. 

cam  arista. 

servicio,  orinal. 

silla  ;  sillon  ;  butaca. 

a  buen  precio ;  mas  barato. 

queso. 

quimico. 

mandado. 

libro  de  mandados. 

cereza. 

cajja ;  cofre,  haul. 

polio. 

nino,  nina  f. 

chocolate. 

escoger. 

iglesia;  templo. 

circulo. 

pueblo ;  ciudad. 

reunion;  sociedad. 

coche. 

cochero. 

cochera;  estacion  de  coches. 

casaca;  levita;  pardessus, 

carbon;  carbonera. 

costa ;  playa. 

bacalao. 

cafe. 

media  taza. 

caf6  con  leche. 

caf6  solo. 

cafetera. 

caf6. 


LANGUAGE. 


363 


Coiu, 

Cold,  to  be, 

Colonel, 

Coini), 

Company, 

Company  (joint-stock), 

Compartment  (of  a  railway-car- 

Compass,  [riage. 

Conceal,  to. 

Concert, 

Conductor, 

Contract, 

Convent, 

Cook, 

Copper  (money). 

Corn, 

Cork ;  cork-screw. 

Corset ;  corset-maker, 

Cost,  the, 

Cotton, 

darning, 

reel  of, 

fabric,  [counter. 

Counter  in  a  shop ;  lady  at  the 
Course  at  dinner ;  for  races. 
Court  (of  a  house), 
Court  (of  assizes). 
Court  (of  justice). 
Cow, 
Cowherd, 
Cup, 

Cupboard, 
Currant-jam, 
Currants, 
Curtain, 
Custard-apple, 
Custom-house, 
Custom-house  officer, 
Cutlet, 


dinero. 

tener  frio. 

coronel. 

peine, 

compafiia,  sociedad. 

sociedad  por  acciones. 

departamento. 

brujula. 

ocultar. 

concierto. 

director;  guia;  conductor. 

contrato,  escritura. 

convento. 

cocinero ;  cocinera. 

cobre. 

raaiz. 

tapon ;  tirabuzon. 

corse ;  fabricante  de  corses. 

precio,  gastos. 

algodon. 

algodon  liso. 

bobina  de  algodon, 

tegido  de  algodon. 

escritorio ;  senora  de  escritorio, 

servicio;    arena   6    plaza;   hipo- 

patio,  [dromo. 

tribunal  de  la  audiencia. 

tribunal  de  justicia,  juzgado, 

vaca. 

vaquero. 

copa. 

armario, 

confitura ;  6  dulce  de  grosellas. 

grosellas, 

cortina. 

chirimoya, 

aduana. 

aduanuero. 

Costilla, 


364 


APPENDIX. 


Cypress, 

Daily, 

Dairy, 

Date-tree, 

Day  ;  a  fine  day ;  a  lovely  day, 

Dear, 

Dej)art,  to. 

Dining-room, 

Dinner ;  dinner-time. 

Directly  (time), 

Dish  (utensil),  (food). 

Distance  ;  in  the  distance. 

Dog, 

Drawing-room, 

Dressing-room, 

Drink, 

Driver  (of  a  coach), 

Drug-store, 

Eating-house, 

Elm, 

Embassy, 

Entrance, 

Errand-hoy, 

Evening, 

This  evening, 

Yesterday  evening. 

To-morrow  evening, 
Every  one. 
Everybody, 
Every  day. 
Exchange  (building), 

Kate  of  exchange, 

Current  exchange, 

Exchange-office, 
Exhibition  (sight). 
Exit, 
Fair, 
Farewell, 
Farther, 


cipres. 

todos  los  dias. 

lecheria. 

palma,  palmera. 

dia ;  un  buen  dia ;  un  hermosa  dia. 

querido. 

salir. 

comedor. 

comida ;  bora  de  comida. 

enseguida ;  inmediatamente. 

fuente;  naanjar;  plate. 

distancia. 

perro. 

salon  de  reunion. 

cuarto  de  vestir. 

beber. 

cochero;  conductor. 

drogueria. 

fond  a. 

olmo. 

embajada. 

entrada. 

mozo  que  hace  comisiones. 

noche. 

esta  noche. 

ayer  noche. 

mafiana  por  la  noche. 

cada  uno. 

todo  el  mundo. 

todos  los  dias. 

carabio  ;  bolsa. 

tasa  del  cambio. 

curso  del  cambio. 

casa  del  cainbio ;  monedas. 

exposicion. 

salida. 

una  feria. 

adios. 

mas  lejos. 


LANGUAGE. 


365 


Fasten,  to, 

Few,  a 

Field, 

Finger, 

Finger-glass, 

Fir  (tree), 

Fire-iron, 

Fireman;  fire-engine, 

Fish, 

Fish-slice, 

Flea, 

Floor  (story), 

Flour, 

Fog, 

Food  or  board, 

Fore-deck, 

Forenoon, 

For  instance ;  in  the  first  instance, 

Fork, 

Fortnight ;  a  fortnight  ago, 

Fowl, 

Freight, 

Friend, 

Fritters, 

From, 

From  above, 

From  afar. 

From  behind. 

From  below  or  beneath. 

From  here  or  hence. 

From  top  to  bottom. 

Fruit ;  fruit-market ;  fruiterer. 

Full, 

Furniture, 

Game, 

Gaol, 

Garden, 

German, 

Grape, 


araarrar. 

un  poco  de. 

campo. 

dedo. 

taza. 

abeto. 

adorno  de  hierro. 

bombero;  bomba. 

pescado. 

frulla. 

pulga. 

piso. 

harrna. 

niebla. 

comida,  alimento. 

proa. 

antes  de  mediodia. 

por  exemplo  ;  en  el  principle. 

tenedor. 

quincena  ;  hace  unos  quince  dias. 

ave ;  volateria. 

carga,  flete. 

amigo;  amiga.  \ 

bunuelos. 

de. 

de  arriba. 

de  lo  alto. 

de  lejos. 

de  detras ;  de  abajo. 

de  aqui. 

de  arriba  abajo. 

fruto ;  mercado  de  frutos ;  frute- 

Heno.  [ro;  frutera. 

muebles. 

caza. 

prision. 

jardin. 

Aleman. 

uva. 


366 


APPENDIX. 


Gray, 

Green, 

Guard  (railway), 

Gin, 

Glass, 

Looking-glass, 

Eye-glass, 

Glasses  (spectacles), 
Go,  to, 
Goose, 
Greengrocer, 
Grocer, 
Ground-floor, 
Haberdasher, 
Hackney-coacb, 
Hair-brush, 
Ham, 
Hamlet, 
Harbor, 
Hat;  bat-box, 
Hay, 
Heavy, 
Hemp, 
Hides, 
Horse, 
Horse-race, 
Horse-wbip, 
Hose  or  stockings, 
Hosier ;  hosiery, 
Hostler, 
Hour;  half  an  hour;  an  hour 

and  a  half. 
House, 

Town-house, 

Country-house, 
Housekeeper, 
Housemaid, 
Hungry,  to  be, 
Ice;  ice-cream, 


par  do. 

verde. 

gefe  de  tren. 

ginebra. 

vidrio. 

espejo. 

cristal  anteojo. 

anteojos. 

ir;  andar. 

ganso. 

verdulero. 

vendedor  de  comestibles. 

piso  de  la  calle. 

mercero ;   marchante  de  noveda- 

coche.  [des. 

cepillo  para  el  pelo. 

jamon. 

pueblo ;  pueblocillo. 

puerto. 

sombrero ;  sombrerera, 

heno,  yerba  seca. 

pesado. 

henequen. 

pieles. 

caballo. 

corrida  de  caballos. 

latigo,  cuarta. 

medias. 

marchante  de  medias ;  boneteria. 

palafrenero. 

bora  ;    media  hora  ;    una  hora  y 

media, 
casa. 

casa  de  ciudad. 
casa  de  campo. 
conserje. 
serviente. 
tener  hambre. 
bielo ;  nieve. 


LANGUAGE. 


367 


IcG  and  punch, 

Immediately, 

In  case  ;  in  that  case, 

Indeed, 

In  due  course ;  of  course. 

India-rubber, 

Indigo, 

Inn, 

Ink, 

Instead, 

Jacket, 

Joint  of  meat. 

Keepsake, 

Key, 

Kidney, 

Kitchen-maid, 

Knapsack, 

Knife, 

Carving-knife, 

Fruit-knife, 
Label  or  ticket  (on  a  box), 
Lace, 
Lad, 
Lady, 

Lamp ;  safety-lamp. 
Landlady,  of  a  boarding-house  or 

hotel. 
Landlord  of  an  inn, 
Lane,  in  a  town ;  in  the  country, 
Last,  at. 
Latch-key, 
Laundress, 
Lead, 
Lease, 

Least,  at ;  not  in. 
Left ;  to  the  left, 
Less ;  less  and  less ;  so  much  the 

less. 
Letter, 


helado;  sorbete. 

enseguida ;  inmediatamente. 

en  caso  que ;  en  este  caso. 

en  efecto  ;  en  verdad. 

en  su  tiempo;  bien  entendido. 

hule ;  goma  elastica. 

anil. 

f onda ;  posada. 

tiuta. 

en  lugar  de. 

vesta ;  camisola  ;  cintura. 

pedazo  de  vianda. 

recuerdo  (de  amistad). 

Have. 

rinon. 

cocinera. 

mochila ;  saco  de  viaje. 

cuchillo. 

cortador. 

cuchillo  para  las  frutas. 

etiqueta. 

blonda, 

muchacho. 

senora;  seuorita. 

lampara ;  lampara  de  seguridad. 

sefiora;  duena;  huespeda  patro- 
na. 

huesped ;  patron. 

senda ;  camino. 

al  iiltimo  ;  por  iiltimo. 

Have  ganzna ;  pestillo. 

lavandera. 

plomo. 

un  arriendo. 

al  menos ;  no  del  todo. 

izquierdo ;  k  la  izquierda. 

menos ;  de  poco  en  poco ;  de  tan- 
to  menos. 

carta. 


368 


APPENDIX. 


Letter  of  exchange, 
Light,  adj., 
Lieutenant, 
Lime  (fruit), 
Limestone, 
Linen, 

Dirty  linen, 

Clean  linen. 
Line  of  railway, 
Little,  a, 

Not  much, 

As  little  as  possible, 
Lobster, 
Lock, 

Under  lock  and  key, 
Locomotive, 


letra  dc  cam  bio. 

ligero,  leve. 

teniente. 

lima. 

caliza. 

ropa. 

ropa  sucia. 

ropa  limpia. 

via. 

un  poco. 

no  mucho. 

lo  menos  posible. 

cangrejo. 

cerradura. 

bajo  Have. 

maquina. 


Lodgings,  furnished;  unfurnished,  habitaciones  muebladas,  sin  mue- 


Logwood, 

Long  ago. 

Luggage, 

Luggage-van, 

Lunch  or  lunclieon, 

Mackerel, 

Maid  of  all  work, 

Man  ;  old  man ;  young  man, 

Manufacture,  a, 

Manufactory, 

Map, 

Market,  market-place, 

Mass, 

Match  (for  a  light), 

Meal-time, 

Meat ;  boiled  meat ;  roast  meat, 

Merchant, 

Mercury, 

Message;  messenger, 

Milk, 

Minister  of  State, 

Mint, 


palo  de  tinte.  [bles. 

hace  mucho  tiempo. 

equipage. 

vagon. 

segundo  almuerzo. 

maquerel ;  sarda. 

sirvienta  para  todo. 

hombre;  viejo;  joven. 

fabrica ;  obra. 

fabrica. 

mapa. 

mercado,  plaza  del  mercado. 

oficios;  misa. 

fosforo. 

hora  de  coraida. 

carne  ;  pulchero  ;  asado. 

marchante ;  aegociantc. 

azogue. 

mensaje ;  recado  ;  mensajero. 

leche. 

Ministro  del  Estado. 

moneda ;  casa  de  moneda. 


LANGUAGE. 


369 


Mirror, 

Miss  (young  lady), 

Mist, 

Money, 

Bad  money, 

Silver, 

Gold, 

Copper, 
Money  changer. 
Money  broker. 

Month ;  by  the  month ;  monthly, 
Moon, 

Full  moon. 

New  moon, 

Moonlight. 
More  ;  some  more ;  once  more, 
Morning, 

Every  morning. 

In  the  morning, 

All  the  morning, 
Mortgage, 
Most ;  utmost, 
Mother, 

Mother  country. 

Mother  tongue, 
Much, 

So  much, 

Too  much. 

How  much. 
Music ;  music  hall  or  room, 

Music-dealer, 
Mustard ;  mustard-box, 
Mutton, 

Mutton-chop, 

Leg  of  mutton, 
Needle, 
Newspaper, 
Newsvender, 
Night, 

17 


espejo. 
sefiorita. 
niebla;  neblina. 
dinero,  moneda. 
moneda  falsa. 

de  plata. 

de  oro. 

de  cobre. 
cambista. 

corredor  de  cambio. 
mes  ;  al  mes ;  todos  los  meses. 
luna. 

luna  Uena. 
luna  nueva. 

luna  clara.  [poco;  otra  vez. 

mas  ;  mas  de ;  aun  ;  mas ;  aun  de 
manana;  aurora, 
todas  las  mananas. 
la  maQana ;  por  la  mafiana. 
toda  la  manana. 
bipoteca. 

cerca  •,  _f  uerte  ;  d  lo  mas ;  todo  lo 
madre.  [mas. 

madre  patria. 
lengua  materna. 
mucho;  Men. 
muy  tanto. 
demasiado. 
cuanto. 

miisica ;  sala  de  miisica. 
marchante  de  musica. 
mostaza;  mostacero. 
carnero. 

Costilla  de  carnero. 
gigote. 
aguja. 
periodico. 

marchante  de  peri6dicoa. 
noche. 


370 


APPENDIX. 


Good  Diglit, 

All  night, 

Every  night, 
Noon, 
Not  at  all, 
Note  (letter), 

(small  letter), 

(bank  note), 
Now, 

Till  now. 

Just  now. 
Nurse;  nursery, 
Oak, 
Oar, 
Oats, 
Oil, 

One ;  once, 
Onion, 

Opera;  opera- glass, 
Opinion ;  in  my  opinion. 
Orange, 

Outside,  the  (of  a  diligence), 
Outskirts  of  a  town, 
Over ;  above ;  across  ;  upon, 
Overcoat, 
Ox-tongue, 
Oyster, 
Palace, 
Paper, 

Newspaper, 

Letter-paper, 

Blotting-paper, 
Parcel, 
Parlor, 

Part ;  for  ray  part. 
Partner ;  at  a  ball ;  business. 
Passenger, 

Pastry;  pastry-cook. 
Path, 


buenas  noches. 

toda  la  noche. 

todas  las  noches. 

mediodia. 

no  del  todo. 

carta. 

billete. 

billete  de  banco. 

ahora. 

en  este  moraento,  hasta  aqui. 

enseguida. 

nodriza ;  cuarto  para  los  niQos. 

roble ;  encina. 

remo. 

avena. 

aceite.  ' 

un ;  una ;  una  vez. 

ceboUa. 

opera ;  lente. 

opinion ;  a  mi  parecer. 

naranja. 

fuera ;  exterior. 

arrabal.  [al  traves  ;  sobre. 

encima  de  ;  por  encima ;  sobre ; 

sobretodo. 

lengua  de  buey. 

ostion. 

palacio. 

papel. 

periodico. 

papel  de  cartas. 

papel  secante,  teleta. 

paquete. 

pefio  salon ;  locutorio. 

parte ;  porcion  ;  por  mi  parte. 

bailarin;     baUarin    socio,   socia; 

pasajero.  [pareja. 

pasteleria ;  pastelero. 

camino,  vereda. 


LANOUAOE, 


371 


By-path, 

Foot-path  or  pavement, 
Pawnbroker's  shop. 
Peach, 
Pear, 

Peas,  green, 
Pencil, 
Penknife, 

Pepper,  pepper-box, 
Pheasant, 
Pickpocket, 
Picture, 
Pier, 
Pillow, 
Pin, 

Pinch  of  snufF, 
Pine, 

Pine-apple, 
Pint;  half  a  pint, 
Pipe  (for  tobacco), 
Pit  (theatre). 
Places  round  about, 
Plate ;  soup-plate. 
Play, 

Play-house, 

Bill  of  the  play. 
Pleasure-boat ;  boatman, 
Plough, 

Pocket;  pocket-book. 
Police, 

Police-officer, 

Police-court, 
Pomegranate, 
Poor,  the  poor, 
Poplar, 
Pork, 

Pork-chop, 

Pork-butcher, 
Post-office, 


senda. 

acera. 

monte  pio. 

alberchigo,  durazno. 

pera. 

guisantes,  chicharos. 

lapiz. 

cortaplumas. 

pimienta,  pimentero. 

faisan. 

estafador;  rafero. 

cuadro ;  pintura. 

mola;  escalera;  rauelle. 

almohada. 

alfiler. 

polvo ;  polvo  de  tabaco. 

pine. 

piQa. 

pinta;  medio  pinta. 

pipa. 

platea. 

los  lugares  del  alrededor. 

plato ;  plato  para  la  sopa. 

espectaculo. 

comedia. 

programa  del  espectaculo. 

lancha ;  batelage. 

arado. 

faltriquera;  bolsa;  cartera. 

policia. 

agente  de  policia  ;  guardia  civil. 

tribunal  de  policia. 

granadita. 

pobre ;  indigente. 

alamo. 

cochino. 

costilla  de  cochino. 

salchichero. 

casa  de  correos. 


372 


APPENDIX. 


By  the  post, 

Office  for  letters  to  be  left  until 

Postage-stamps,     [called  for, 
Potato, 

Present  (gift) ;  at  present, 
Preserves, 

Price ;  lowest  price, 
Prison  ;  prisoner, 
Provisions, 
Prune  (plum), 
Publisher, 
Pump;  fire-pump. 
Pumpkin, 
Purpose, 

On  purposa. 

To  no  purpose, 

To  little  purpose. 
Purse, 
Quarter, 
Quiet, 
Rabbit, 
Eace-course, 
Eailroad  or  railway. 
Railway  station, 
Raspberry, 
Read,  to, 

Receipt;  receipt  in  full, 
Red, 

Refreshment-room, 
Rent,  to. 
Retail, 

Retail-dealer, 

Wholesale  and  retail. 
Return  ticket. 
Right, 

To  the  right. 
Ring,  to, 
River, 
Road  ;  carriage-road, 


por  el  correo. 

posta  restante. 

estampillas. 

patata,  papa. 

regalo ;  presente. 

dulces. 

precio  ;  el  liltimo  precio. 

carcel,  prision;  prisionero. 

viveres ;  comestibles. 

ciruela. 

editor;  publicador. 

bomba ;  bomba  de  apagar  los  ia- 

calabaza.  [cendios. 

fin;  efecto. 

espreso ;  de  proposito. 

sin  efecto. 

poco  efecto. 

bolsa. 

cuarto,  barrio. 

tranquilo. 

eonejo. 

terreno  de  corridos. 

ferrocarril. 

estacion. 

frambuesa. 

leer. 

recibo  ;  carta  de  pago. 

Colorado ;  rojo. 

fonda. 

alquilor. 

por  menor. 

vendedor  por  menor. 

por  mayor  y  menor. 

boleta  de  vuelta. 

derecho. 

a  la  derecha. 

tocar. 

rio. 

ruta,  camino  ;  via  carretera. 


LANGUAGE. 


373 


High-road,  or  main  road ;  by- 
road ;  cross-road, 
Room, 

Round  about, 
Route, 
Rye, 
Saloon, 
Salt, 
Same, 

It  is  all  the  same, 
Sauce, 
Saucer, 
Sausage, 
Say,  to. 
Scarcely, 
School, 

Boarding-school, 

Day-school, 
Schoolmaster, 
Sea ;  rough  sea, 

Smooth  sea. 

Sea-sickness, 

Sea-side, 
Seed, 
Servant, 

Servant  of  all  work, 
Shave,  to. 
Sheep, 
Sheet, 

Ship ;  steamship, 
Shoe, 

Shoe-black, 
Shoe-horn, 
Shop, 

Shop-keeper, 
Shovel, 
Show,  to. 

Side,  this;  that  side, 
Slice, 


camino  real ;    camino  desviado ; 

camino  cruzante. 
cuarto. 

todo  alrededor. 
rumbo. 
centeno. 

salon,  sala  de  visitas. 
sal. 

mismo. 

es  todo  lo  mismo  ;  es  igual. 
salsa, 
platillo. 
salchichon. 
decir. 
apenas. 

escuela;  colegio. 
colegio. 
colegio. 
maestro. 

mar  ;  alta  mar,  mar  agitada. 
mar  tranquil  a. 
mareo. 
costa. 
semilla. 

sirviente,  sirvienta;  criado. 
criada  para  todo. 
rasurar. 
oveja. 
sabana. 

buque ;  vapor, 
zapato. 
limpiabotas. 
calzador. 
almacen ;  tienda. 
tendero ;  tendera. 
pala. 
ensefiar. 

por  este  lado ;  por  aquel  lado. 
tajada. 


374- 


APPENDIX. 


Soap, 

Soldier, 

Soup, 

Sponge, 

Spoon, 

Tablespoon, 

Dessert-spoon, 

Teaspoon, 
Spruce, 

Stable  (for  horses). 
Stableman, 
Stairs, 

Up-stairs, 

Down-stairs, 
Stamp, 

Station-master, 
Steamboat, 
Steam-boiler, 
Steam-engine, 

Storj  (of  a  house),  on  first,  sec- 
ond, etc.. 
Stew  (of  meat,  etc.), 
Straight  ahead, 
Straw, 
Strawberry, 
Street, 
String-beans, 
Strong, 

Sugar  ;  lump  of  sugar, 
Summer, 
Sunrise;  sunset, 
Supper ;  supper-time. 
Surgeon, 
Sweep,  to, 
Sweetbread, 
Sword, 
Table, 

Card- table. 

Writing-table, 


jabon. 

soldado. 

sopa. 

esponja. 

cuchara. 

cuchara  para  la  sopa. 

cuchara  para  postres. 

cuchara  de  t6. 

pruche. 

caballeriza. 

criada  de  establo. 

escalera. 

a  arriba. 

a  abajo. 

timbre. 

gefe  de  estaci6n. 

vapor. 

caldera  de  vapor. 

maquina  k  vapor. 

piso,  al  primer  piso,  al  segundo, 

etc. 
estofado ;  gnisado. 
todo  derecho. 
paja. 
fresa. 
calle, 
ej6tea. 
fuerte, 

aziicar ;  pedazo  de  azilcar. 
verano. 

salir  del  sol ;  ponerse  el  sol. 
cena ;  hora  de  cena. 
cirujfino  medico, 
barrer. 

lechecilla  de  ternera. 
espada. 
mesa. 

raesa  de  juego. 
mesa  para  escribir. 


LANGUAGE. 


375 


Work-table, 
Table-cloth, 
Table-linen, 
Tailor, 
Tart,  a, 
Tax, 
Tea, 

Tea-kettle,  tea-pot, 

Tea-things, 

Tea-tray, 
Teacher, 
Telegraph, 

Electric  telegraph. 

To  telegraph, 
Theater, 
There, 

Here  and  there, 

Down  (or  over)  there, 

Up  there. 
Thick, 
Thin, 
Thing, 

Thirsty,  to  be. 
Ticket  (railway), 
Till  now, 

Till  then, 

Till  to-morrow, 

Till  Wednesday, 
Time-table  (railway), 
Tin, 
Title, 
Tobacco, 

Tobacco-pipe, 

Tobacconist, 
To-day, 

Every  day. 

Good-day, 
To-night,  [morrow. 

To-morrow;    the   day   after  to- 


raesa  de  trabajo. 

manteles. 

ropa  para  la  mesa. 

sastre. 

tarta. 

contribucion. 

t6. 

tetera. 

servicio  para  el  t4. 

plato. 

maestro,  maestra ;  profesor. 

telegrafo. 

tel6grafo  electrico. 

anunciar  por  telegrafo. 

teatro. 

alii. 

aqui  y  alii. 

alia  aba  jo. 

alii  arriba. 

espeso;  grueso. 

delgado ;  magro. 

objeto. 

tener  sed. 

boleta. 

hasta  aqui. 

hasta  entonces. 

hasta  mafiana. 

hasta  el  miercoles. 

indicador. 

estauo. 

titulo. 

tabaco. 

pipa. 

marchante  de  tabaco. 

hoy. 

todos  los  dias. 

biienos  dias. 

esta  noche. 

mafiana ;  pasado  maQana. 


376 


APPENDIX. 


Tooth, 

Tour, 

Tourist, 

Tower, 

Towel, 

Town  ;  town-hall, 

Train  (railway), 

Down-train, 

Up-train, 

Ordinary  train, 

Express  train, 

Fast  train, 

Mail  train, 
Travel,  to, 

Traveler, 

Commercial  traveler, 
Tree, 

Trunk  (traveling). 
Trust,  to, 
Tunnel, 
Turf, 
Turn,  to. 
Twilight, 
Umbrella, 
Under, 
Up, 

Down, 

Up  there. 
Use, 

Of  use. 

For  the  use  of. 
Usury, 
Veal, 

Vegetables, 
Velvet, 
Vest, 

Vinegar  ;  cooked  with  vinegar, 
Village, 
Visit,  to, 


diente. 

vuelta. 

viajero. 

torre. 

toalla. 

ciudad  ;  casa  de  ayuntamiento. 

tren. 

tren  de  salida. 

tren  de  vuelta. 

tren  ordinario. 

tren  directo. 

tren  volante. 

tren  de  correo. 

viajar. 

viajero. 

viajador  de  comercio. 

arbol. 

maleta. 

confiar. 

tnnel ;  subterraneo. 

cesped  ;  campo  de  corrida. 

volver. 

crepusculo. 

paragua. 

debajo. 

alto ;  arriba. 

abajo, 

alia  arriba. 

uso ;  empleo. 

Titil. 

al  uso  de. 

usura. 

ternera. 

legumbres. 

terciopelo. 

chaleco. 

vinagre  ;  k  la  vinagreta. 

pueblo. 

visitar. 


LANGUAGE. 


377 


Voyage ;  on  a  voyage, 

Watch, 

Wages, 

Wagon, 

Waiter, 

Waiting-room, 

Waitress, 

Wake,  to. 

Walk, 

Walking-stick, 

Warehouse, 

Warm,  to  be, 

Washerwoman, 

Water, 

Clean  water. 

Cold  water. 

Warm  water, 

Fresh  water, 
Water-bottle, 
Watermelon, 
Wax, 

Wax-light, 
Wayfarer, 
Weary, 
Weather, 

Fine  weather, 

Rainy  weather. 
Week, 

This  day  week, 

Last  week, 

Next  week, 
Wheat, 
Wheel, 
White, 
Willow, 
Wind, 
Wine ;  red  wine, 

White  wine, 

Wine-glass, 


viaje ;  travesia ;  en  viaje. 

reloj. 

salario,  gajes. 

carreta,  vagon. 

mozo. 

salon  de  espera. 

muchacha. 

velar. 

paseo ;  vuelta. 

baston. 

almacen. 

tener  calor. 

lavandera. 

agua. 

agua  limpia. 

agua  fria. 

agua  caliente. 

agua  fresca. 

jarro. 

sandia. 

cera. 

candela. 

carainante. 

cansado. 

tiempo. 

buen  tiempo. 

los  tiempos  de  Uuvia. 

semana. 

de  hoy  en  ocho. 

la  ultima  semana. 

la  semana  proxima. 

trigo. 

rued a. 

bianco. 

sauce. 

viento. 

vino  ;  vino  tin  to. 

vino  bianco. 

vaso  de  vino. 


378 


APPENl)IX. 


Wood, 

Workman, 

Wrap,  to, 

Year, 

Yellovv^, 

Yes, 

Yesterday, 
Yesterday  evening, 
The  day  before  yesterday, 

Young, 

Zinc, 


madera;  lena, 

obrero,  labrador. 

envolver. 

ano. 

araarillo. 

si ;  en  ef ecto. 

ayer, 

ayer  noche. 

antes  de  ayer. 

joven. 

zinc. 


THE    EIS^D. 


c-^ 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 

This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


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